kpnuts

Already broke mine now fixed steering had to glue it in place.

Hi all here is tonights update (sorry if you're getting bored of this but its a mahoosive project, I don't think I'm half way through it yet) although I have to say I'm really enjoying it, I'm already planning what I'm going to do with the next one.

Hi all lots done on this, although it dosn't look like it (mostly taking apart what I did before and repainting in new colours,think I've sorted the body paintwork out.

Hi all a small update on this one, filled the little hollows on the body and did a bit more weathering of the seats.

hi all this is fighting me all the way, I bought some barrier coat and sprayed it with that then gave it a coat of gloss white and its reacted with the barrier coat, you cant really see from the pics but there are little wrinkles in the paint so Im hoping sanding back where the wrinkles are down to bare plastic and re spraying will solve it.

Hi all well I've added the rubber piping that goes between the wings and the body and I've started the front seats (see if this works before I do the rear ones) I'm going to try the marbelling effect I used on the Kwak Z1 a while ago only not going to have so much of it, so this is just the base colour which would show through from the cracked vynle (how do you spell vynel vynal ????)

Hi all well I've sorted the air intake problem and started filling and sanding the rear of the car, I would like to prime it so I can see what further filling and sanding will be needed but till Citroen France get back to me with either the colour code or the paint itself, I've no idea what primer to use, I don't want to prime it then have it all react with the top coat.

Hi all well the body (the majority of it anyway is glued together) I cant recommend Roy's cd enough, I've referenced it often but here it is invaluable he shows you how to assemble the body as a separate part which will save a lot of hard work later on also if following his instructions the finished body is very tough. there is however one very big problem with my model, which I don't know how I will get round I couldn't resist trying the bonnet on and the air box is too high lifting the bonnet, that is going to be a real pain, not sure whats happening to be honest, I know I had it (the airbox ) in the wrong place originally but its where it should be now, the engine sits on the engine mount properly? you can see from this pic the problem

Hi all we due to the kind generosity of CPNGROATS (a member on another forum who was so impressed by my model ships he gifted this to me from his own stash)I have received this today. Thank you very, very much George, very kind indeed. I hastily opened it tonight eader to start but my missus says NO!!! "you have enough models on the go, cluttering up my house. you finish some of them off and get them out the way". to be fair I do have 9 on the go and bits are all over the place, she's generally ok so I cant complain ( but I have found in the past a bit of sweet talking can bring her round ) so watch this space, in the very near future.

Hi all engine mount sorted some work on the engine bay and a quick try of the body

Hi all just to let you know I've not given up on this it is just almost impossible to get the paint off, this is after 3 days of mister muscle not sure what to do now spray over this or try a new can of mr muscle.

Hi all well this steering rack has driven me to hurling this against the wall, I've re-glued it on no less than a dozen times only for it to come off almost as soon as I turn it over, fingers crossed its on for good now, tried a test fit of the engine (I have to say it fitted before, but someone stood on one of the engine mounts (my fault I shouldnt have left it on the floor)when I took it off to do the breaks and clutch pedal linkages) now the engine dosnt lign up on that one so it will have to come off and see whats wrong with it.

Hi all I was asked on another forum to do this tutorial and thought it may be usefull here too. Firstly let me say I'm not saying I'm good at this or that isnt any of my own ideas (well apart from the plastic ageing)all the rust techneques I use here have been used by others, perhaps not all at the same time or combined with other thchneques, I was asked by juno to do a tutorial on my methods so here it is, hope it is of some use. Firstly this is old spare parts and I am going to spray the overall top colour black, simply because I think it will show the effect off best, first I paint the rust colour on the part roughly where I want the rust, If I want blistering bubbles in the paint I use pva glue and a cocktail stick. please excuse the blured pic, its difficult to use the camera whilst applying the glue, I allow that to dry then apply a few more dabs around and on that one and allow those to dry next I use sea salt in a grinder (you get more uneven grain sizes than table salt Now there are 2 methods you can use now, water, or hair spray the bottom one is just water which is applied where you want the rust only the top part I applied the hairspray all over it (I decant the hairspry into a lid from the can so if I wanted I could only apply it where the rust is, I've done it all over on the top piece I will explain why in the next step) now wee sprinkle the salt all over whilst everything is still wet. then allow it to dry. then we spray it all black< you can see from the water one that some of the salt has already fell off now we brush all the loose salt off that is as far as you can go with removing paint on the water and salt one, however with some warm water and a stiff brush you could also remove all the black paint from the hairspray part if you wanted to, the advantage of this method is if the salying has not shown enough rust you can show more like this. The next stage (this wont work on the hairspray one ) is to use some cellulose thinners I like to use the dirty thinners I clean my brushes in as it helps with the staining , I also have a special brush with very few bristles left so it cant hold much, I literally shake the tin and whats in the lid is what I use(WARNING THIS MELTS PLASTIC BE CAREFUL) I literally just run it down the seams to give the rust tracking you get. Here endeth the rusting

Hi all well here's tonight's bit, that steering rack was a real pain the ball joints are supposed to push through and be an interferance fit but I had us a dremell tool by hand to gradually open it up enough to get the ball joint through without it just falling back out again, very sloooow gentle work with lots of checking to make sure the ball joint didn't just fall through. got to paint it and weather it now, would have painted it first but it is a tight fit and wasn't sure it would slide through the shaft after it was painted will now use very thinned down paint and hopefully if I keep moving it as the paint dries it will remain working.

hi all well my daughter cleared a load of her stuff out of a cupboard today so I now have a new dry place to store my models ( I also found one of my A level art projects)

Hi all here's tonight's bit

Thanks for the info hopefully I will win one of those.

Here is tonights episode. I really, really, really, really love this kit cant wait to start the Mefistofeles if its anything like this.

Well that's a poo not on ebay as entex either, as a point of interest whilst on holiday with my parents I saw the actual real thing in Yorkshire I was about 14 at the time and as you can imagine when I saw it in our local model shop ( yes in those days our otown had 3 yep that's right 3)I had to have it I was 17 and had to save 3 months for it, I really really want it again to do justice to it as I'm sure (although I tried and was happy with the results then and even up till it got broken, but I didn't know about washes and such then)

yep done the steam roller version as well they were both in my steam graveyard dio, now going to see if I can find it as an entex model thanks for the info.

Hi all here is an Idea of just how huge this is, I thought the GT was big but, and dont forget it still has the rad and bumpers to go on, just look at this.

Hi all well my son has given me the motivation to finish this, its going to look radically different though. My daughter has been touring the USofA in one of these So I'm going to convert this and give it to her for christmas, I've made a start

Firstly I am sooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo jealous I missed out on this on ebay ( I had 150 pound to spend ) it went for 76 quid but I missed it but 7 minuets ) the reason I am pis-+@ is I built this as a teenager and even if I say so it was the best model I ever made. You say it has been released as other makes could you enlighten me, will deffo be watching this.

Not skills the rust is just the salt technique as for the scabbing, I do that (this only works with enamel paints) and I recommend great care DO NOT GET THIS ANYWHERE NEAR BODY WORK PAINT JOBS I get a tiny bit of cellulose thinners on the brush a dab where I want the scabbing, do this very sparingly and build it up gradually allow the paint to set then if you want deeper scabbing go over it again you can do this upto 4 times after which I've found the paint will start showing the plastic colour underneath (THIS METHOD WILL EAT INTO THE PLASTIC) so you have been warned. I use dirty thinners as it gives that staining round the scabbing you see on rusty things, I have in the past (not on this as I don't want it that rusty) put dabs of pva before I paint the item which gives a raised part to begin with and if you want a deeper rust effect once the pva is dry add another layer (make sure it's smaller and not the same shape as the first layer)

Hi all here is the next update