aurfalien

Hi all and many thanks for the replies. Art, I'll try that solder, seems cool.

Here a pic I snapped a while back.

Doh, saw a previously sold Fein Designs 350 slot kit for €226 Euros. They are discontinued. Too rich for my blood.

After re reading your post, this stuff may actually be perfect. Thanks man! Thing is is requires to scrub the resin off when done which will damage the delicate parts. Hmm I'll have to call em for more info.

Well, I got these brass and aluminum rods from a hobby shop. They are about the diamteter of what a 1/24 axle would be. A quick Goog search (there is no such thing as a quick Goog search when one doesn't know subject matter) yeilds gobs of info. Most of which involves a butane torch. I prefer solder.

Darn, I was hoping for an easy answer like; "use this so and so solder etc for doing it". As usual, many thanks for the reply.

Hi all, I've been getting into building frames etc... and have been using crazy glue to stick em together. I tried using solder but I had the wrong type as it wouldn't stick to the metals. Is there a solder I can use as a type of weld? Should I get a mini butane torch?

Holy smokes he does? Thanks man I'll ask him. I just bought 2 of his Lola kits, very high quality BTW but sorta pricy. The instructions were in German so I used Google Translate on my iPhone to real time decode the language, amazing stuff.

I'm surprised no one has done a real kit of a Ferreari 350 CanAm. I saw one rather crummy curb side resin kit of it a while back for MFH full detail prices. Its got lines similar to a 330P4 but different enough to be obviosly unique. But to have 330P4 and 412P kits seem odd as they are simply almost identical.

Hi, Curious if the Ferrari gurus out and about can help answer a question that I've been very curious about for a long time; Are there any body differences between the 330P4 and the 412P? I see 412P transkits here and there and wondering why they even exsist. They seem to include front, rear and glass. Wikipedia has info that states the 412P is simply a cosumer version of the 330P4 with perhaps some slight engine mods etc... MFH even had them as two distict kits.

Thanks man!

Well, I just got a really sweet looking Boss 429 from Replicas & Miniatures Co. of Md.

This stuff is killer; http://www.thedetailer.net/index.htm

Cool deal. Check the Alumilte site, I started there when doing my first castings. They have 2 types of products, the traditioanl stuff thats covered in this thread and this newer instant thing. Its were you shape a mold quickly as it dries fast and poor your resin into it. Pretty cool stuff; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CfK0D9D-X48

Cool, that will be my next purchase. Although I undrstand that the SmoothOn stuff as Len mentioned is very good.

+1 Longbox55! I've used both PinkySil and Allumilte RTV fromage. My views; The Alumilte stuff is a harder mold taking 12-24 hours for proper cure. I feel its well suited for small detail like duping cards etc... PinkySil is a much softer mold taking 30 minutes to cure. Its well suited for stuff like hoods, doors etc... There are other RTV based brands which are reviewed here so check around. I'd suggest buying the Alumilte kit to start with, it has; RTV silicone Blue Clay (which I hate as it stains my hands). 2 part resin Mold release agent Measuring cups and wodden stirs. Hobby Lobby with a 40% coupon would cost ~$40.

Thanks guys! As for trading, my stash is bad a$$! And I love the 2C. In fact my modded 2D CanAm was partly inspired by the 2C.

It's official, won it for $28 which also includes shipping, stoked!

Well, when I cast, I use a silicon RTV for the mold itself. Its not home grade fromage but rather specific to mold making. You'd use your hot glue gun/silicone to make the box that contains the mold. Here's a cool video; This guy uses standard grade stuff like what you wish to do, I've never used it but intrigueing indeed. He doesn't demonstrate, simply talks through but still cool;

Being a newb myself, I think its great for exposure. Scale model building has fallen out of favor and replaced by premature sexual experiances and other FaceBook/Twitter encouraged shenanigans. I think the deal is a great for exposure as it brings relavance to whats out today and what kids may be interested in. I personally may not buy any of the kits as a result of this deal as I hover around 50-70's endurance/forumula 1 kits but still. its cool to see this. PS Revel is very smart and seemingly well run. There current Star Wars line and now this should bring profits and further jobs to the company. I love em even though most of my kits are Fujimi/Tamiya.

Ok cool. Done!

Hi all, Curious what the prevailing attitude is towards an LS Chaparral 2C, the one with the metal Webers is worth? I've come across one for $30USD and wondering if I should buy it. It's a killer subject matter for sure, but I've enough kits. Still, it seems the right price? Thanls in advance.

Hi, Thank you for all the nice comments. My next 3 builds which are in progress; 1) Revell Porsche 356 dragster version (bashed with a Wynns Jammer). 2) Redoing the Chapparal 2D CanAm 3) Building a box stock Dino 206 which I already did but messed up.

Thanks KB! While I had fit the hood to the body, once installing the glass it changed! I was like WTF, paint etc was already done. My next build will be a thorough moch up and man, things simply get wack at every stage.

Hi, oh sorry, you sked that previously. Still having morning coffee Yes, the stacks come in the AMT re-release of the kit. Its pretty cool, the rear printed tires are awesome.