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Roadrunner

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Posts posted by Roadrunner

  1. I had that ElCamino camper kit and the Mako shark ones as a kid...cool to see them again.

    Indeed it was. I'd really like to find another El Camino with the camper shell. I have a local car model contest/swap meet coming up in May, perhaps I'll get lucky.

    That Cougar ll was a pretty tough kit.

    Agreed. I had forgotten all about it until looking through all the instruction sheets this morning. The box is jammed full of all sort of sheets, cars, armor, ships, aircraft and monsters (Aurora); fun stuff indeed.

  2. After snatching a box of old instruction sheets from my storage area, I was able to identify the origins of this car. It's the AMT Funny Car Mustang-GT, released way back in the 60's. Oddly enough, this very same car is available again now; just saw them on feebay. (I think I'll be buying another!)

    cars003_zpsc4fbd7ed.jpg

  3. Kevin, first your a luckily one to still have have the kit from 40 years ago that you had started! I only have one of my built builds from 40 years ago. Your truck build is looking good so far and looking forward to see your progress. Have you decided on any colors?

    It's a kick for me too, I can tell you that. To finish this after starting it all those years ago, will be totally cool. As to color, no decision has been made yet, but probably one form or another of blue (my favorite color) or orange/black.

  4. Yes, that is the way I usually do it in the shop, but I didn't find a quick video of that method, and it's still kinda difficult to do on a 1/8 inch circle.

    That sounds like a good, simple approach. Maybe just draw circles on a piece of clear plastic, using a fine-line Sharpie and a circle template like the one above.

    Probably almost impossible, but a useful bit of information nonetheless, for those that may be contemplating finding centers on larger circles, for whatever reason.

  5. Two ways I can think of; print concentric circles on a piece of clear decal paper, use the decal on a clear thin plastic sheet, align your piece under the clear sheet, then mark center with a sharpened needle in a pin vise.

    A variation of the method posted above, is draw four arcs, location is irrelevant, as long as origin is on the circle and the radius is longer than half the diameter, connect the lines at the intersections, and that's the center.

  6. Kevin, the Boyds series of paints offered a nice range of colors, some of which were kind of unique. As has been pointed out, they are enamels, but if you get to the place where you can spring for an airbrush, you'll find that reducing these with lacquer thinner will help resolve the orange peel and drying time issues.

    There are also any number of articles about using food dehydrators to cure paint more quickly, and in one case I saw where a modeler had basically built a box with a 40-watt bulb & used that to speed up the drying process.

    Grab 'em & try 'em out!

    Actually, I already have two Paasche, two Badger, and one Iwata, so I'm OK in that department.

    Everyone's given you some good info on the Boyd's colors Kevin, if you can get 'em cheap, buy 'em up! I would suggest you spring for a dehydrator just for those paints though, they take much longer than normal Testors enamels to cure, 3-6 weeks depending on how many coats you lay down. Once cured though, they're gorgeous colors!

    Yea, a lot of the WWI aircraft builders use them (actually a hot box) for quick drying oil paints. I've considered building a hot box of my own, as I dabble with the occasional WWI biplane myself, but just haven't gotten to it yet.

  7. What irritated me today is the fact that I have but one day left to clear out a storage locker, and the temperatures here have dropped into the single digits. Throw in some relentless winds, and you have a recipe for annoying.

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