swede70

Very quick update... I decided to hack off the 3D-rendered radiator support consistent with just reemploying the standard Jo-Han iteration less radiator (the same of which was filed out/off). Not wishing to shorten the inner fender length given the material along the sides of the support could help 'stretch' the dimensions to fill the gap otherwise left for simply grinding mass from the front, I tried to disguise things for preserving the surface contour underneath even as the results appear a touch long for so-doing. . Notice how I left the radiator support structure outboard the visible under hood area to basically afford something solid to mount and align the standard kit item. Rounding things out and minor stuff, above a Jo-Han Javelin/AMX wiper motor was recovered from an older glue burned build and situated appropriately. Thanks... Swede70/Mike K.

Indeed - I didn't. Thought was given to what might constitute a wish list of things desired if I ever decided to make the 3D design and print plunge independently, although (and as of yet) I've not crossed that decision threshold. Apparently a second/third generation AMC V8 is also available, although I doubt I'd save more than the short block and reach for other tools to flesh such out. We'll see... - Next up is/was to determine if the amalgamation of rendered under hood panels could/might live in peace with the Jo-Han interior/dash as well as the chassis casting plus standard radiator support should I wish to employ it. While I did further work to tighten the fit of the 3D printed material to shove it further up, in essence the inner fenders weren't trimmed to coexist with a junk chassis that simply had the half round wheel housings cut from it to come up with what's made out below. The base of the 3D radiator support required modest trimming, but the firewall was left wholly alone. Ignore the (very) random paint work and scruffy bits on view with regards to the mock up for only the worst subassemblies I have were harmed for experimenting thus. The white plastic inserts in the trough area were glued in, whatever gaps remained topside puttied and smoothed. I filed out a slight recess on either side of where each inner fender stamping would blend into the fender opening looking up and proceeded to deepen the same, while I also tried to replicate the slight curvature/radius of the panel, again with the intention of ensuring a tight fit. A late-issue Jo-Han radiator support has been filed to remove the stock radiator core from it, whereas the same has been temporarily fit into the standard Jo-Han sighting slots cast into the insides of each respective fender to see where I'd be were the decision taken to cut off the 3D rendered radiator support detail which I think I'll do. No interference is/was encountered with regards to the interior and dash fit, while the stock Jo-Han firewall (such as it is) doesn't really factor for the use of such is redundant. Maybe it would be good to steal the wiper motor detail from the Jo-Han original and add such here? Thinking too that additional detail might be added to the 3D printed inner fenders with reference to the 1:1 topic photos seen further up this thread. Pretty close with regards to where one would expect the front suspension to be relative to the suspension turrets. Other than cutting off the wheel housing detail, not much else was done to accommodate things as-seen. No wild surprises here either... Whereas this is about as funky as it gets underneath with nothing done to the 3D rendered firewall to fit in relative harmony to the Jo-Han chassis plate and interior bucket. Life proceeds then. Thanks for your review of this project update. Swede70/Mike K.

Greetings... Isolating the needed panels all as a piece didn't prove all that difficult for use of a razor saw and much aggressive filing. First effort this with new parts, hence others might perform the work with greater skill. In particular, it seems I filed too much material off of the tops of each inner fender stamping, leaving things too narrow and necessitating the introduction of some plastic to flesh out matters. Thanks... The major effort was cutting the part out, although the best fit was achieved for filing and shaping the radiator support and firewall to mate to the Jo-Han inner body contour... Swede70/Mike K.

Greetings... This just touched down and affords hope that Jo-Han/AMT-badged Javelin/AMX underhood panel work can be revised in a thoroughgoing fashion. As this was written, a 3D-printed '68-'69 AMX can be ordered up complete or piecemeal, whereas I opted to buy a body w/bumpers and window tracings. Happily the shell with the radiator support, inner fender, suspension turret and firewall detail (really just contours to work with) are pretty cleanly done, whereas if it's a touch small relative to the Jo-Han tool, I think I can make something of what can be cleared away from the body rendering. A '68-'69 trunnion front suspension is suggested for what was generated for the rendering, hence upper suspension turret work would be called for for any post-'69 T/A season build. Thanks... Swede70/Mike K.

Greetings... Done on the cheap with an old Testor's Aztek airbrush with Tamiya acrylic paint mixed just for estimating things, I'd wanted to refinish a pair of front valance panels with turn signal plugs/fill panels, rear valance panels sans R/T exhaust tip cut outs, plus some reshaped rear spoilers for reprofiling the ends and shortening the base/bottom of each. I finally tried it with and realized success, mostly for the use of a can of Mr. Color Premium Top Coat Gloss water-based clear spray which helped mightily to even out what color coats I'd applied. One reshaped and refinished rear spoiler shows up on the back of #76, the other, quietly airing out a stick seen right... Early season it seems the fared in turn indicators was done with sheet aluminum (slated for use on #77), whereas later season these were painted body color as seen right (slated for use on #76). Some effort was made to carefully file out the radiator opening along the top of each valance panel to visually thin the otherwise thick plastic to better suggest a metal stamping. These in turn would be the rear valance panels I worked up. Both evidence work to carve out the areas otherwise covered by small bumper guards that extend down inline with the leaf spring ends and mounts, whereas the license plate mounts were cut out, rebuilt and blended prior to be drilled to suggest where a stock license plate mount might be attached. A solitary Classic car wax bumper sticker was added to the #77 Challenger panel reflecting a discreet addition seen only at '70 Laguna Seca where the team entry also did without the aforementioned bumper guards, leaving an unsightly gap on either end of the panel. Almost out of sight along the back would be a trio of underbody 'X' braces with cut outs to allow the fitting of paired exhaust dumps, again slated for use on my Autodynamics Challengers... - ...and this just quickly, the A-pillar mounted fresh air ducts fabricated anew for the Gurney works 'Cuda releases were painted and set onto a pair of older ACME releases to improve matters as contrasted to the comparatively undersized as-delivered spec. These additions generally look the business, the paint match not terrible. Thanks for your review of these small project updates... Swede70/Mike K.

Suggested would be Replicarz for the model collection, while with regards to the artwork I'd recommend that you consider The Motorsports Collector near Chicago, IL., or perhaps more suitable still - l'art et l'automobile in NYC. Sorry for your loss... -replicarz.com Motorsportcollector.com – Welcome to The Motorsport Collector! l'art et l'automobile | arteauto.com Mike K.

Some short updates then... For reasons unknown the numeral situated on the deck lid of the ACME #76 is sited too far back and almost slips below the forward edge of the rear spoiler. Hunting for a suitably-sized replacement, happily it was discovered that the old 1:25th Fred Cady Designs waterslide sheet dedicated to the same topic features door numerals that can be substituted in. Trimming out the R/T side stripe elements to employ the numeral seven - but especially six wasn't huge fun... Third attempt and second 1:25th Cady sheet employed to arrive at the results seen here. Numeral alignment, very thin decal material and cracking clear coat defeated my first two tries at this, while a second deck lid with Revell 'Chrom' finished edge trim was substituted in given the first deck lid was paint scratched for clumsy decal removal, the trim twisted and damaged beyond reasonable repair on this same panel even as I wished to preserve it. - Happily the 3 Amigos Decals commission work arrived and demonstrably satisfies for careful application. Concerning the same, below may be noticed a simple pair of images communicating changes to the appearance of my two ACME Challengers. The Autodynamics logo situated forward on the fender came out very crisply with a distinct outline, whereas the fender lettering consisting of 'Classic wax' and 'Challenger' rendered as flowing script constitutes a marked improvement versus what existed before... Same Autodynamics logo in the same spot, whereas the KEITH BLACK RACING ENGINES accessory sponsor decal below UNION 76 is new. The Champion and BELL helmets decals were further added from existing stock and finish out the exterior markings here. Thanks for your review of this short project update. Swede70/Mike K.

Greetings... Sort of a small project on my 'wished for' list, seen would be cast resin Hwy. 61 '70 340 Dart 8 3/4 rear axle integrated with the remains of a Dana 60-equipped '70 Challenger rear axle installation the ACME Autodynamics Challengers come through with. Maybe not visually exciting, but far better than the dismal 8 3/4 rear axle afforded on some of the earlier Hwy. 61 E-body releases. Also seen would be some new brass tubing paired exhaust dump exits, not strictly trimmed to match the profile of the rocker panel as they had been before in their as-delivered state. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70

Thanks for the interest and kind words... Minor stuff again, but for having the shattered remains of a Hwy. 61 '68 Dodge Dart GTS 383, the A833 4-speed manual transmission and bell housing for the same were 'freed up' as it were and for liking the bell housing access panel detail w/mounting flange hardware and greater definition overall, it too will be cast and incorporated into my SCCA Trans-Am Chrysler Corp. builds. Notice as well the utility of Eastwood's 1:1 restoration aerosol metal finishes, with their take on cast iron being used for the transmission case even as the appearance of such was a ruse of sorts given a non-homologated aluminum case was run in the '70 series E-bodies as supported by the factory. Happy that the metallic employed isn't too heavy or obvious, whereas it's almost as though for looking at the transmission I could easily imagine tripping upon it and falling heavily in the garage! A side case, also better detailed and from the same Dart GTS tool, further stands to be added to the transmissions being worked up. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70

Greetings... Specific to the #77, the graphics on the front fender need help. In order front to back (at least at such applies to the driver's side), the Autodynamics logo ought to be more compact and sans yellow field, the Classic wax lettering should be larger for font, such picking up right where the front side indicator lense assembly ends, whereas the Challenger script should match the lettering/font seen on the actual production car and stretch over at least as far as the 'T' that makes up the R/T identification embedded in the side stripes. Trying out fonts and sizes both for collaboration and web searching, seen would be some results of the collective effort thus far... Reference as to how things ought to appear for #77. Pretty close, almost there, and promising to be much better. The top model will retain the work already performed to revise and enhance the accessory/contingency decal stack, although hoping to scrub off and replace the markings atop the R/T stripes with what's suggested below it. Thanks for your review of this tiny project update. Mike K./Swede70

Following up on what others have hinted at and remembered, a diecast iteration was done by Motor Max in 1:24th scale. It's not terrible, profits from a tire change give the sidewall of whatever they did are too tall, whereas pity they are so expensive on the secondhand market given keyed in enthusiasts avidly gather examples up. Wishing that I had held onto my own, I remember swapping on some Pegasus lowrider tires and removing the tail lights on my example to black out the tail panel, but this and touching in the wheel lugs with chrome paint was the extent of what I did and basically you'd be happy with one. Hoping you turn up what you require... Mike K./Swede70

Small stuff this... Another set of driver's i.d. decals arrived, whereas some matters could be corrected/adjusted on the pair of ACME Autodynamics Trans-Am Challengers, #77 and #76 respectively. Likely guided for referral to the restored #77, the 'Sam Posey' door identification is set too low on the ACME 1:18th scale diecast release. Happily the replacement script is indistinguishable from the as-delivered marking but for position. Further, notice that the GMP GOODYEAR Blue Streak Sports Car Special tires will afford quite a different early season look for the neat blue line sidewall detail reproduced. Lug nut and taped external wheel weights to come with regards to the appearance of the Minilight wheels obliquely made out here. A minor difference between the spec. of the #76 as run at Riverside at the last race of the '70 SCCA Trans-Am season versus fleeting appearances earlier on was the inclusion of a tiny R/T side stripe element between the numeral 7 and 6. Efforts to work up something for carefully cutting and applying three separate decals to fill in what was judged missing proved too tedious, although oddly enough a very old 1:25th scale Fred Cady Designs waterslide decal sheet afforded R/T side stripe material one could judge too thick for any 1:25th application - but serviceable for my purposes in 1:18th. Not perfect, but a discrepancy one wouldn't strictly be looking for or be alert to for what I've applied here. A new front fender and door featuring better aligned and damage-free R/T striping helps clean up matters here, while the tiny stripe element situated between the door numerals is revealed as unobtrusive. The hub wheel alignment guides on the front wheel/tire assemblies have since been refinished in black. Lastly and difficult to make out, one of the cast resin A-pillar mounted fresh air interior ducts was painted and situated with two unseen round plastic rod mounts to distance the duct just a bit off the surface of the nearside A-pillar proper. Thanks for your review of this tiny project update. Mike K./Swede70

Some additional small #76 and #77 ACME Challenger projects undertaken in brief this... Although the stylized crash pad/dash profile was retained on the Autodynamics Challengers for race use, the bottom half metal structure was cut away. Seen are two dash assemblies (topmost) that have had their bottom half cut off and out. Also discernible would be cut outs to allow a new roll cage with A-pillar bars to be sited better twice over. The nicely detailed instrument cluster specific to the ACME race effort has been retained. Just prior to redoing things here for what's seen right is actually for a Hwy. 61 AAR 'Cuda, nevertheless I wanted to replace the oval Six Pack/Pak or Six Barrel fresh air hood seal with something appropriately round versus oval underneath the hood proper. Later in the evening I'd trace the outer profile seen left onto sheet plastic, further trace the hole seen right onto the resultant pattern stencil-like, and hash out the rest. It will work! Somehow on the #76 release the hood as well as other green painted bits did not receive a clear coat application. Here I've prepped the hood, while I did something similar to isolate the rear spoiler without strictly placing the presumed delicate trunk numeral decal for just using paper cut to suit that might gingerly slip beneath the furthermost forward lip of the ducktail design (not seen here). Hood pins off (again), but looking more of a piece for the effort made. Some metal panels stand to be switched out on account of quality control goofs noticed her with decal reapplication also scheduled - hence the 'Tony A.' lettering has vanished rom the door seen. Experimenting further with clear coat application (off the model) to custom commissioned decals given the surface sheen availed/afforded is not all that it could be. Thanks for your review of this project update. Mike K./Swede70

So sorry for the delay - thanks for your fascinating reply and interest expressed. I'll try to find/source the SIA magazine article as I'd not heard of it or found reference to the same (August 1978 issue M.K.), whereas quite the list of luminaries you were able to consult for the effort expended. It's an honor to merit your notice... - Small update here to the extent of collecting more bits to add to the 1:25th AMT-based twosome. An absurdly cheap '64 Tempest convertible annual kit build up was purchased at an area hobby show for all of $20 over the weekend that was, whereas a set of bumpers (with grille combined for the front) tail light trim w/tail light inserts as well as a kit plastic hood was secured. Also an MPC '67 GTO (endlessly rereleased this) plastic kit chrome tree was gathered for cheap, this affording another set of exhaust headers to integrate into one of my two builds. I bounce between projects - almost pathologically so, although when parts plus research discoveries are made, it's not uncommon for me to reembrace this or that effort for awhile. Thanks for your review of this tiny update... Swede70/Mike K.

Greetings... Not something I could readily fabricate from thinner material to say little of metal, seen would be a set of revised #76 siamesed headlamp fill panels cut from thin plastic sheet and later cast. The ACME Autodynamics Challengers both come through with oval-shaped fill panels specific to #77 early season, but less accurate with regards to what was fit to #76. Thanks... Sam Posey at Kent, WA. with the joined headlamp fill panels or overlays readily made out... Probably the best I could do, whereas heartened that the bumper/grille assembly was barely affixed to my model and basically pressed out with little resistance. Surprised to note that the grille seen isn't a photo-etch screen at all but rather a textured surface solid piece of plastic. Perhaps I might replace such? Thanks for your review of this brief project update. Mike K./Swede70

Greetings, For a fast web search and equally fast search across the MCMF board I'd hoped to find a lead or leads - alas, I haven't. I'm on the hunt for some source of a waterslide decal affording was is termed an 'engine turned' surface finish whereby oil is applied to an aluminum surface in combination with a wire brush spun by drill. The resulting pattern which appears as a series of carefully controlled overlapping swirled marks is something usually seen on much older Indianapolis racers, and in a decorative sense on mid-1970's Pontiac Firebird Trans Am instrument panels which most will remember or recall. Attached below would be some material I applied to a 1:18th SCCA Trans-Am Challenger that proved very nice indeed - albeit my supplies (gifted years ago by someone quite skilled at coming up with material appearing spot-on) are running low. Might anyone provide guidance or have lead to something similar? Kind thanks for your review of this query... Mike K./Swede70

Greetings, Chassis and interior apart now, with the raised front seat mounting platforms and fuel tank drilled out (unseen here), whereas painting the rims, plus heating and subsequently remounting the tires without harming the tire lettering or scuffing the sidewalls proved possible. It's looking nice at present... Mike K./Swede70

Thanks for the notice... Somehow the paintwork applied to the hood scoop top and sides of the ACME Autodynamics Challenger releases doesn't quite come as far forward and end in a point along the base of the inlet sides - something I can't help but see/fixate upon when I inspect one of these models. I had a spare T/A hood, and after applying successive layers as carefully as I could to isolate where I wished to touch matters in on this release, I transferred the mask over and buffed it with a cotton swab hoping to seal things as best I might. A nice result was registered for the effort made given it pretty much looks the part now... Yep - a hood pin is missing here, though not lost outright. Not much to see here perhaps, but I opted to drill out and remove the painted flush exterior door handles and replace the same with earlier issue or better ACME stock release examples that are chrome plated. A magnesium wash was subsequently applied, the results cleaned up a bit before being glued in place. The look conveys a bit more quality versus the as-delivered spec., hence I'm happy. Thanks for your review of this update... Mike K./Swede70

Greetings (and for the passage of several years since I've added anything to this thread)... Having picked up a 1:18th ACME #76 Autodynamics 1970 Dodge Challenger SCCA Trans-Am release after missing such when they were new and freely available, recently I was able to gather an example. To mix things up a bit it's my desire to alter the appearance of such to suggest a '70 Riverside, CA/Mission Bell 200 race spec. with Tony Adamowicz in the driver's seat of the second Autodynamics Challenger entered. T. Adamowicz would post a DNF, as would Sam Posey to draw down the Dodge factory-backed Trans-Am effort for the final race outing/date that year. Seen below would be some limited work restricted (thus far) to a roof top refinished in a particularly flat finish (TS-6 Tamiya Matte Black) after much tedious paint masking, while the accessory decals on the sides have received a bit of work even as said effort isn't complete. The 'Tony A.' driver's identification on the doors was work performed by 3 Amigos Decals and definitely looks the part, while also made out would be an abbreviated front spoiler less the Lexan clear end additions which were left off at Riverside given half-buried tires employed to mark the apex of this turn and that factored against the race-long survival of such. A decal sheet is in the mail to add the 'Dodge' lettering to the front of the spoiler, whereas wondering too the utility of the sheet with regards to other variations on the theme of the Autodynamics '70 Challenger effort suggested further up this thread. In sum, I don't know how much I'll do to this release, although the wheels will certainly be redone and other things tried. Thanks for your review of this post. Mike K.

Neat work - thanks for sharing. With regards to Ray's Decals, did you opt for one of the Volare Super Coupe or R/T sheets? Neat underhood detail you've added - far better and more elaborate than what I've attempted. Attached would be some images of a Motor Max Diplomat which I tried to do as an A38 police package. Not as daring as what you've worked up, although I can share that the wheels and ventilated center caps are Fireball Modelworks items, the tires old 1:24th Monogram Goodyear GT Radials (likely from a '70 Challenger T/A release but dating back to their '78 Corvette) with an inner lip ground out, while the interior paint is SEM interior refinish aerosol. I just filed off the Motor Max wheels until the face/front was thin enough to accommodate the new rim detail set atop each, whereas grinding the outer diameter to hand fit each to the new vinyl tires was a knuckle busting adventure and the hardest aspect of what was done below. Finishing up, the bumper fill panels were painted silver as was a practice here by departments running these cars in-service long ago. I didn't try foil, not much was done with the interior but for rubber mat floors, while maybe I flooded the front turn signals with amber paint to make that detail a bit more prominent. The reverse lamps are just sections of white decal stock overlaid onto the tail light castings. The six-slot wheels might also have been from the 1:24th Monogram '70 Roadrunner - I can't remember and cannot be sure. Hoping to see your RCMP effort soon so that more might be learned. I half-wonder if the traverse torsion bar set present on the MPC Volare kit/promo could be grafted into/onto the chassis? Maybe too much work for too scant a result, but just pondering matters. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70

Greetings, I haven't seen many modified new-school (now made in Bangladesh!) 1:18th Solido diecast models to date, whereas here I'm trying to make changes on their spuriously identified '71 BMW 1602 which is actually a '74 and later car judging for trim changes including the taillights. The model isn't AutoART or Kyosho quality, but then it isn't priced as such and generally comes off (as does the new Solido range) as representing honest effort. In particular I do like the job made on the late styled pressed steel wheels which was the common everyday fitment to most of the '74 and later examples imported into the U.S. market, hence unlikely most AutoART and Kyosho variants, the absolute rarest and best wasn't strictly modeled here. The tires are quite good too, appearing to be appropriately-sized and treaded Michelin XZX's and far better rendered than what's found on the few KK releases featuring them. As witnessed above, the wheel arch shape/contour seems a bit off both front and rear, whereas the wheels strike me as being finished in too bright a hue even as the center trim caps should suggest aluminum stampings. At first I'd hoped to leave the wheels in place and reshoot the rims for squeezing the tires off the rims to a certain degree, but the stiffness of the tires just precluded my ambitions here. Heating the wheel/tire assemblies to render the tires pliable didn't achieve much, hence another matter to be alert to. Even with the other wheels saved to further experiment upon, taping off the center cap and refinishing them didn't come off as well as I would have hoped, while below I've included a 1:1 photograph that suggest how things ought to appear. Brake detail is minimal or wholly in error (the rears are rendered as drilled discs), hence with one broken wheel I've had to start upon rebuilding things to ensure new mounts would be strong and stable, the track front and rear reasonably accurate. Working up molds to come up with replacement rims in two parts less the trim cap has taken both time and effort. Seen below would be a very stately '74 in Verona (Red), telegraphing what would be the final aim concerning spec. and appearance less the auxiliary lighting. Words of caution are voiced - disassembly of this tool isn't without it's hazards; i.e. don't expect it to neatly fall apart in an manner akin to something like a Yat Ming/Road Legends model, whereas things broke and other parts/assemblies have just been painted in-situ given no clean way could be devised to remove this or that without risking breakage. I ruined one styled press 'steel' wheel given the weak link wasn't the hub - it was the wheel itself, whereas don't expect to remove the bumpers for grinding off the tips of the plastic mounts that pass through the metal shell for neither bumper can strictly be shifted no matter how determined I was to make this happen. The nose panel is a separate piece that seems to break off when removing the chassis, while the attachment points are a bit hidden. Mind you this isn't a terrible model - just be alert to special needs as it were on the disassembly front and be prepared to work within limits. A bit of application across the interior this. Nonstock speaker grilles otherwise found on the package shelf have been filed and sanded flat here, whereas the front seats have been removed and repainted given the hinges were finished incorrectly, the casting of the cushions and related bits somewhat rough. The rear seat cushions aren't removable, hence masking to isolate the 'salt and pepper' low-pile carpeting with matt black as a base and a deliberately sloppy dusting of matt white was required. A non-tii '02 in late spec. would typically have a fairly slick plastic steering wheel rim, hence the safety pad in the center of this example was masked before applying a coat of gloss black to those surfaces that remained exposed. Relevant areas were masked on the dashboard assembly which is removable to apply a heavier gloss, while the casting here is relatively good and well thought out. The pedal assembly otherwise expected isn't present here given it's being redone; i.e. Solido didn't tool it as floor-hinged, while it seems possible to just work up something appropriate to rectify the situation. A bottom pad contoured to fit the underside of the steering column and wrap beneath where one would insert a key to start the automobile wasn't tooled or is included, although in fairness many a 1:1 BMW '02 example is missing this bit of interior trim given large key chains tend to dig into the top surfaces of such and render it so much junk. I suppose I could pick up a scrap AutoART Spares-sourced late interior and transfer parts over, although here I think I'll just scale back ambitions and further flesh out what's seen and call it done. Seen above, the side front indicators have been filled out with amber metallic paint to suggest some other spec. than what Solido rendered, whereas the bumper guard rub strips, body paint and perimeter aluminum trim have been touched in here and there to clean up the overall appearance. I wasn't able to remove and resize the front and rear license plates, although for careful masking they've been overshot with a suitable semigloss black. The rims seen here are resin clones of two wheel faces saved out of a set of four. The third and only other survivor was cut to save the inner rim detail to basically match to the copied outer surfaces, while scratch built new center trim caps will be finished separately with a BMW emblem applied and added later. I suppose if I'd mixed the translucent red and amber paints I have with greater intent and knowledge the front indicator paint might look better still. I'd hoped to remove the wiper arms/blades to refinish them in semigloss black, although again it seems that I'll have to mask each in-place for no amount of force exerted from behind will move them. AA Spares inventory exhausted in this regard concerning their '02 stocks as it were. Last image this. The unshiftable rear license plate is witnessed refinished in semigloss black again, whereas the somewhat clumsy '1602' tampo print identification on the tail panel has been scrubbed off and replaced with a '2002' waterslide decal commissioned some time ago to 3 Amigos decals. Hoping to wrap up matters with this limited project soon. Thanks for your review of this post. Mike K./Swede 70

Perhaps consider raiding the stock of a body shop supply store consistent with turning up SEM interior refinish aerosols. At first the coverage won't seem all that good given it's fairly thin, whereas definitely take care to spray some quantity off the surface you wish to cover because some mysterious residue will come out of the can (it always does) before the paint will flow to the nozzle. Hard to explain accurately, but should you fail to heed that which I relate here, the unknown goo will end up on your work and you'll be at pains to strip and clean such prior to trying again. After about four or five seconds of spraying the aforementioned 'goo' will clear out of the can, although the initial surprise experienced is just that. Other words of warning are warranted. What's applied will at some point seem almost too thick to strictly work, threatening to erase underlying detail before gassing out, but when it finally does the sheen and finish is first rate. Thin application of Tamiya's very good primer can help ease suffering consistent with effecting a color change, hence chose carefully and match products appropriately. Very happy here with the SEM line, whereas if their catalog is judge too limited, 1:1 restoration specialists will either mix their own formulations to serve demonstrated need amongst the clientele they target. Good luck... Mike K.

Greetings, I have the remains of two AMT stock spec. late Matador coupe models, whatever Penske Winston Cup/NASCAR racers I've purchased in the past in addition to a very nice and professionally-finished (if it can be called that) bodyshell where I hope to combine all the best to come up with a good result for cobbling matters together. The above appreciated, somehow I was having a lot of trouble turning up detailed reference materials to support my effort until the following Bring-A-Trailer post revealed what might be the ultimate (horror of horrors) late Matador with what could termed impeccable pedigree. AMC Chief Stylist Dick Teague apparently had dibs on the last Matador coupe built, while the accompanying photographs afford as detailed a look at the car and platform as the reviewer of this post is likely to discover. Helpful to me, and maybe two or three others scattered across the globe... https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1978-amc-matador-barcelona-coupe-last-matador-built-1-of-1/ Mike K.

Greetings... Seen is a refurbished Jo-Han toy store/hobby store issue Jo-Han '70 American Motors Hornet refinished to suggest a '71 SC 360 Hornet for work limited to an exterior refinish, bumpers stripped and painted with Revell of Germany's 'Chrom' aerosol lacquer paint (fine stuff), application of Ray's Decals waterslide graphics, SEM interior paint (Tamiya's Pink Primer helped a lot here), and what I could work up to reproduce the wheels less trim rings complimented with Fireball Model Works sidewall tire lettering waterslides in the appropriate D70-14 size. The hood scoop and vacuformed 'glass' represent some material saved from a personal miscue for my wrecking a Missing Link transkit of the same topic years ago - hence these important bits were not gathered independently. Some short notes with regards to the wheel/tire combination and decal application to share then. Tires are old solid vinyl MPC Goodyear Polyglas GT's with the usual raised sidewall lettering carefully ground off prior to sanding the sides smooth - and no, I didn't know or suspect such could be done before. As witnessed, it isn't clear anything was strictly messed with, hence a success of sorts to register. Wheels are a composite affair, with AMT center stampings cast separate from the chrome plated lug surrounds/center caps, while the outer rim detail sans trim ring would be shapes lifted from the old Jo-Han Superbird tool with reference to the NASCAR pressed steel wheels divorced from their centers. I greatly admire how others have carefully finished these difficult to paint wheels, but had no confidence my effort might compare short of blowing everything apart and finishing stuff separately - hence the effort made. The Ray's Decal art is mostly good, with some small quibbles to report. The side 'spears' seem be a bit short stretching towards the front of the car, whereas two stripe options on the sheet exist with regards to traversing the fill panel below the rear glass/backlight, one more sharply radiused than the other. Concerning this back stripe element, neither is strictly ideal with the more sharply radiused option resting somewhat awkwardly in combination with the carefully trimmed and sized side spears/elements, while perhaps the other design comes off as almost too straight even as it was laid out as a subtle 'vee' in terms of profile. Do take the time to photocopy (a few times) the Ray's Decals artwork consistent with versing yourself on how things are going to go and what challenges might be faced before committing to cutting the actual decal sheet, dipping the art and positioning the same while they can be moved/shifted/adjusted. Strike the best compromise you may while accepting that the result will reflect a compromise - although a good one as can be made out above. Many, many extra elements consistent with feeding multiple projects are included within/upon the Ray's Decal artwork for this topic; i.e. underhood decals and markings aplenty, with similar (if not unprecedented) utility across the interior, etc. Here I've just used a few; i.e. the SC 360 glove box-situated crest, the stripes with the 'vee' element across the fill panel situated just atop the leading edge of the trunk lid, as well as the tail panel decal that also bears separately applied then-new 'AMC' identification, and the 'HORNET' nameplate less the ornamental and stylized Hornet emblem. All the cast in-place raised promo identification along the tail panel of the model had to be ground off and filed flat to accommodate the decal given softening solution will only achieve so much here, hence be thorough should you wish to follow in my steps. Hoping to (yet) turn up the appropriate fuel cap for this build. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70

Greetings... A long-shot request this, but seeking the fuel cap illustrated in the instructions (listed here as #60 and chromed) for the Jo-Han (although AMT-boxed iterations would likely contain the same) '72-'74 American Motors Hornet. Working on a promo-based SC 360 conversion, whereas the promo just came with the most basic of twist caps less the more elaborate presentation/trim seen below. Kind thanks for your review of this query. Mike K./Swede70