swede70

Greetings and a brief return to my otherwise neglected thread... Having come up with a promo-issue Jo-Han 1969 Javelin SST shell molded in Frost White, the thought here was to refinish the forward and rear thirds of the same to suggest one of the rare tri-colored Trans-Am promo releases, these done in either red, white and blue or alternately blue, white and red from nose-to-tail. I didn't have a stock interior or chassis plate molded in white to complete the appearance of things, hence remains of a Bittersweet (Orange) metallic same-year Javelin promo were refinished to suit. Seen above would be the promo shell stripped of the metallic blue it formerly sported, while discoloration is witnessed across the surface of the body that could only be cleared up for a prolonged dip/exposure to a 3% hydrogen peroxide solution with the body situated in a glass flower vase and set in sunlight consistent with allowing a certain process to work. Also spied within the photo would be the essentially as-cast brown plastic chassis/plate, hence some imagination is required to forecast what will be the final result. Rather depressing to ponder the appearance of such at this juncture... Quite a difference then for the hydrogen peroxide dip combined with prolonged sunlight exposure. Given the original Trans-Am promo relied on the Frost White shell to basically telegraph an otherwise wholly finished white center section, it was important that the center band suggested be clean. Some putty work would be done to address other problems in terms of scratches and irregularities discovered across the stripped body shell, but all that was possible with the center band was to polish out what I could and essentially leave it be. A spoon test of the blue and red aerosol paints I hoped to employ suggests things might work out. Hoping too that the choices seen here will translate into success when the '68 and '69 RKE/JRT racers are painted in turn, whereas I believe the paints chosen look a touch better than what Jo-Han applied in the day to speak little of how company line workers faltered in relation to masking the necessary pattern. Tamiya TS-23 Light Blue and TS-68 Pure Red are made out here. Seen above would be an actual R/W/B period release of the promo, accurately telegraphing how clumsy the masking was of the body while also relating how box wear bores through the finishes applied: i.e. witness the leading edge of the hood as well as the wheel arch lips which reveal a bit of the underlying white plastic. Often these models present poorly when they do surface on the market, belying the reality that they are among the most valuable Jo-Han American Motors Javelin promotional releases. - Although hardly perfect, a pretty good end result then even as my own masking won't make headlines. I decided to paint the interior in the style of a '69 RKE/JRT Trans-Am racer without being too bold, whereas the chassis was finished in a semi-gloss white, again akin to the 1:1 period topic. I didn't want to deflect criticism of producing a fake intended to deceive, hence the choice to come up with something obviously different in a key detail. - While lastly, here I've situated the replica finished in B/W/R with an original R/W/B variant to telegraph what was achieved. The plastic glass was polished, metal promo chassis pins were set back into position for use of a soldering iron, while the wheels and tires are made up of Jo-Han '73 snap kit Javelin/AMX blackwalls combined with X-EL '69 AMX Magnum 500's and recycled period promo axles. Thanks for your review of this post. Mike K.

Greetings and apologies if I've posted the same basic thing previously... Something low-cost to employ (or at least experiment with) for the purposes of applying paint finishes to rims with exterior lips either machined or chromed, or less likely but still possible two-tone finishes (see below), consider grabbing a supply of scale model rocket nose cones. Seen below is a 1:18th diecast release than slightly underwhelmed for having inappropriately finished wheels (the center stamping should be painted black), whereas after much hemming and hawing, I finally gave matters a try for working up a two-part mask as illustrated. One section divides the outer pressed steel rim finished in silver from the center wheel stamping. Prepared carefully, the paint mask was thinned as much as I dared to fit as evenly and as tightly as I could manage (i.e. one simply doesn't have to 'live' with the as-delivered nose cone material thickness where it counts), whereas a relief for the air valve was carved out with a file to more or less lock the mask in-place when time came to apply a finish. Notice that the tip of the same cone was saved and trimmed to match the wheel center/lug surround trim in this instance to protect what couldn't be removed and safely tucked away off-site. I've done something similar for other 1:18th topics, carefully marking what was created for what purpose, whereas after a time the rocket nose cones (which can be purchased separately in a bundle should one look around versus being charged all-up for a whole model rocket kit) just become part of one's tool kit/bag of tricks. Thanks... Not everyone will have a hobby shop that splits the cones out separately for sale, but for looking it's possible to source such... The factory promo iterations (or at least some) didn't have the wheels finished appropriately. It was like I was ashamed to display it given people would talk! Compressing much (hey - it's a Turbo after all!), noticed will be my masking setup ready to go... Not perfect, but then the wheel masking on a silver/Polaris-painted version of the same basic release frankly isn't much better - or may rate as even a tad worse. Mike K.

Greetings... Minor stuff, but some revisions to the outer appearance of both the '70 Laguna Seca iteration as well as the '70 Mid-Ohio iteration. Although configured differently across the race weekend depending on what session, qualifying period or extent of the race itself the photo was taken, I'd made the mistake of including some small additions to the ends of the standard front spoiler element that weren't in fact raced. Trimmed and reshaped a bit, here the model looks a touch neater... ...at speed during the running of the '70 Laguna Seca Trans-Am in the over 2.0 liter category. ...also long ignored would be the shape and lower extent of the rear flares which seem to dip below the rocker panels and subtly angle up - at least as seen at '70 Mid-Ohio. Worried I'd damage the delicate rocker panels on this version, I'd hesitated to pour yet another set of flares, cut element from the same to extend each flare downward as indicated, and basically bring things into focus. Tedious and nerve wracking, things are better now... Most images really don't telegraph how far the forward edge/profile of the rear flares extend down, while here something is clearly captured. Notice too the slight enlargement of the vents part and parcel of the front valance panel profile - something I hope to add to distinguish between these two builds. Kind thanks for your review of this brief project update... Mike K./Swede70

Greetings, Maybe not strictly seen on the road, but stationary and slightly off it! For an extended period the vehicular love of my life was a '74 BMW 2002 that I reluctantly sold seventeen years ago presumably never to seen again. Two days ago in northwest Detroit a friend and I spied it resting more or less inert and almost untouched since I had it. All the books and paperwork I'd included and set in boxes remained inside, whereas today I was very kindly availed much of it back for free. Seen is my bald self before the not quite shattered remains of my ride. May it live on, whereas hoping to devise someway to telegraphs thanks and appreciation for inspecting such and being afforded what I carried away. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70

Greetings, A local hobby store came into deal with regards to a large range of 1:43rd diecast models tied into just about every James Bond film ever done. Sold for $13.99 each, I grabbed three, with one being a 1973 Chevrolet sedan that can pass for an unmarked police cruiser. Boxed under different labels with a more mainstream spec. police iteration as well as a taxi cab featuring, it seems the James Bond/Live and Let Die version is slightly less common. My came through with mismatched wheels likely drawn from the taxi cab release and looked strange, although some work overnight for use of Tamiya Titanium Gold further coated with a dusting of Tamiya Translucent Orange followed with an final shot of Tamiya Pearlescent Clear yielded me stamped steel rims to match the body hue. The paper diorama background just fell out of the display case provided, I reversed the model on it's base so that it would look more or less normal, although the atypical scale human being still sits behind the wheel of this particular model. I don't know - it just seems that I'm being watched... Closing things out, not Minichamps quality, but not under threat of being tossed in the trash. The hubcaps were masked for applying tiny balls of Silly Putty and pressing the same in place four times over. I thought I'd wreck it for experimentation, but in essence it looks good and happy in the company of other period police cars collected to date. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70

Small stuff this, but a coolant expansion tank finds a home on the firewall as well as the Traco remote oil cooler setup (largely invisible) set just below it. To the right would be found a very short master cylinder (necessitated by overly large front wheel housings/liners) still requiring further work, while a coil is spied resting along the firewall top just back of the shaker hood seal. The finned valve covers were recast given some gaps were witnessed where the fin insert indifferently mated to the GMP '70 GTO Judge 'stamped steel' iterations I'd fitfully blended the Welly '72 Firebird Trans Am detail into, while for some delicate clay application on my master the unwanted gaps should be addressed now. The top radiator hose is just a modified ERTL item, shortened a bit and very likely to be covered with thin copper wire consistent with reproducing the profile of cheap period corrugated hose. I'm not quite sure what to use in this capacity, although I'm willing to try! Additionally, along the driveline overlay may be seen a pair of CDI ignition units (one a spare then) positioned atop a tiny platform supported by Lords anti-vibration mounts (a small round 'rubber disc' situated on each corner of a sheet plastic rectangle then), while a shifter plus shifter ball has been fit besides even as it's a touch big and begs replacement. The exhaust header collectors were trimmed and adjusted to match for length and mirror each other in relation to the angle by which they exit. As witnessed, the mildly modified MPC 1:20th AMC AMX parts live happily in their unfamiliar surroundings, while it remains to be seen if room exists to fashion the atypical full-length exhaust fit to two of the T.G. Racing entries I have going even as the third represents the '70 Laguna Seca spec. with the familiar abbreviated sidepipes. And just to finish up, the orange-painted FRAM filter is barely visible here beneath the TRACO remote filter mounting, itself scarcely spied beneath the aforementioned coolant expansion tank copied from an old turned aluminum Halon fire bottle topped off with the best-rendered coolant cap I've been able to source to-date. Kind thanks for your review of this post. Mike K.

Greetings... Exhaust headers can be hard to find in 1:18th, whereas scratch building the same can be tedious. Here some 1:20th MPC '70 AMC AMX headers (doubtlessly old '68 Craig Breedlove-issue carried forward then) with mild collectors mods looking largely the business. The first photo telegraphs how thing fit relative to the chassis and upper control arms with what was a scrap engine assembly, whereas the photos that follow from there reflect the same engine substantially cleaned up and outfitted with the best items gathered and painted to date. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70

Greetings, As it should have been done from the start, here would be the accessory drive redone with pulleys fashioned from tube stock with square rod stock 'belts' situated to suit as contrasted to making do with what I'd employed before. Unpainted, but looking cleaner and more coherent now with the alternator situated higher up and the Hydroboost pump drive situated directly to the right. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70

Thanks for the kind interest... Small stuff this, although witnessed would be an attempt to reposition the alternator from the stock location where it would otherwise interfere with the oil 'puke' tank, while for three attempts at scratch building the same, said puke tank looks tidier and fits better. Bonding the two mounting bands cleanly while not overdoing the glued 'welds' proved a challenge, while nice to discover that an old can of Krylon Foil Metallic Silver really worked nicely on the pair of resin oil breathers made out below. With further adjustments and paint the accessory drive will soon appear normal and more or less finished, trying now to better understand the configuration of the Bendix Hydroboost combined power steering/power brake pump even as the master cylinder detail is fairly straightforward to source. Not sure really how much in the way of hoses and electrical wiring may be added, although for something in a larger scale one is at least prompted to try for more room than usual exists to experiment. The old 1:18th ERTL diecast tool still looks largely like a toy, although appreciate I'm trying to transcend the roots of such! While closing out, more attention paid to the thickness of the accessory drive pullies relative to the belts results in a cleaner appearance again, while the white plastic plugs suggest I'll cut off the fender to radiator support braces on this the third '70 T/G Racing Firebird even as the recent decal work might be placed under threat for so-doing. Hoping to order a photo-etched seat belt harness as well as some rudimentary 3D-printed exhaust headers consistent with improving things before long. Thanks for your review of this project update... Mike K./Swede70

Greetings... Strictly speaking not full-on diecast, but in-league with 'our' usual tales of happenstance discovery and thus shared here. Hesitating for a moment, the recent turn towards Alfa Romeo-themed topics proved the decisive influence here, and hence I was powerless not to post... A quick review of FB Marketplace revealed a built kit posted for sale locally, while for a half-mile drive and $20, a built and apparently wholly intact 1:8th scale Pocher 1931 Alfa Romeo 8C 2300 Monza was picked up. I haven't noticed anything missing, while these days people part intact kits on eBay and whatever might be revealed as absent could likely be gathered up independently without too much fuss. No clue where to put it, whereas some part of me suspects that it's grown overnight! Thanks... Mike K./Swede70

Just on the topic of the few diecast kits on the market, some advantage is afforded for seeking such out, although maybe less than one would first guess. For just tearing into almost any 1:25th diecast topic in particular (short of Danbury and Franklin Mint rebuilders), most are held together with a handful of screws situated in obvious places, while observance of normal caution will yield you something cleanly field stripped and largely unbroken. Sometimes screws will be hidden in wheel arch areas, situated behind glued-in front valence panels, etc. Part of reviewing build threads here is to establish how to best attack this tool and that, while even those who post infrequently usually will chime in if they have legitimate insight to share consistent with clearing a specific hurdle. With this in mind, no huge value is really on offer for holding out for fairly scarce disassembled diecast kits - at least in my view. Will the occasional model be written off for clumsy disassembly and incautious handling? Yes - most certainly. Initially an upsetting proposition, if the up front cost of a replacement is judged to be not so high, appreciate it's pretty common to silently order or gather another example in the night and revel in the availability of a comprehensive spares package to push the envelope regarding what one might try, what finishes might be applied, in addition to sorting out and isolating the best of the Best of the BEST of what you'll have inspected most closely! Within reasoned limits, modifying simpler diecast topics isn't a hugely expensive hobby, whereas for having a high-quality finish applied that looks acceptable out of the box is indeed a plus and a boon for those of us overwhelmed by more elaborate start-to-finish unassembled plastic projects. Strategic work consistent with altering an interior color or swapping in a better engine or one carefully detailed is wholly o.k.! Opportunistic collecting driven by chance and whim is o.k. too! Mike K./Swede70

Not much to strictly see, some modest additions plus paint work to report then... Still further efforts made to refine the fill panels along the back of the interior, while the roll cage and driveline tunnel overlay were puttied and sanded again and again to eliminate evidence of irregularities, gaps, holes, etc. prior to applying finishes. Frustrating then to realize just how much work this and that requires to look reasoned; i.e. one change or alteration has a spill over effect that demands careful attention to ensure things remain in control. Hoping to have a seat belt photo-etch kit in-hand soon, with the main interior paint completed before long. Underneath the front subframe in addition to much else will be finished in aqua, while I hope to mask the subframe rails topside to visibly delineate these from the enormous wheel arch liners that otherwise blot out awareness of what's situated lower. Oh - and how exciting, a large Harrison oil cooler has been fit within the space just left of the radiator. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70

All that's been advanced above, with whatever further insight I and others may provide then... Just for myself, mostly I'm drawn to 1:18th renditions of period road racing topics (diecast then), with select 1:25th scale unassembled plastic kits filling in for what hasn't been tooled in a larger scale. 1:43rd and 1:18th F1 Grand Prix topics dating from the mid-1990's and later are also collected (again in diecast), whereas I'm finding myself priced out regarding new releases while I simultaneously less than impressed with the move to sealed resin afforded at an equally stiff price point. Some period 1:25th plastic promos are collected, but these too are typically expensive and not an avenue I can explore deeply. I suppose I keep in the hobby for avidly modifying older tools picked up when the price of such wasn't wholly prohibitive. Could I afford to start again from scratch with prices as they are? For what I do - certainly not! Patterns will be picked up with regards to which manufacturers have done the best justice to which topics and what price point. In a sense it would be easier to simply rely on ratings relating to the 'best' afforded (and some are routinely terrific mind you), but as time goes on most companies currently active are almost endlessly churning fully-amortized tools to keep their businesses going, while I'm not sure if things can continue apace if most everything has been done - and better - in the recent past. If a firm relates in a press release that the best of something will soon be released to market for $250.00 - well, I'm not the customer for such. Awareness of the Golden Age of Cheap China ending maybe a few years past the turn of the century is general amongst hardened and well-informed diecast collectors who, motivated by a sober awareness that things will never be so detailed and so inexpensive as availed twenty-odd years ago, super-heat the online auction market for what they missed in-period. Understand too it's common for most to cycle out one low-cost and low-detail model to gradually move up the food chain consistent with having a small but carefully governed collection of very good tools/renditions of what's most valued. Tiny, reknown museums certainly exist, while enormous and sloppy collections that take over lives and destroy relationships also exist, hence be forewarned... Locally where I work a single day at an area automobilia shop, the younger customers are shifting towards 1:64th scale releases previously the terrain of Hot Wheels and Matchbox alone, and if $20 will yield a very nice Ruf Porsche Yellow Bird, who's to say value hasn't been afforded? People are being priced out of the diecast hobby looking up to 1:18th and beyond, whereas sealed resin topics from 1:43rd to 1:12th aren't necessarily setting the world alight with regards to demand. Mostly old news here given what I'm relating has been said again and again. Quite understandably, many here reasonably restrict themselves to 1:24th/1:25th low-cost drugstore diecast fare and simply keep things light and fun. Damaged older Danbury Mint and Franklin Mint models can be had for modest sums, and more than a few posters enjoy feasting on such - again, keeping costs in-check and the fun factor high. Modifying these less expensive options is a guilt-free experience as many will attest. Whatever you should do and however you opt to approach things, we each wish you well. Identify and topic and a collection focus and people humming on a like-frequency stand ready to chime in and afford direction. Without further details it can be hard to generalize concerning where we might guide you, although I trust these are early days for you and more information may be forthcoming. Good luck then... Mike K./Swede70

Kind thanks for the notice... Small updates include the revision of a few fill panels across the interior, an initial stab at an oil puke tank, aluminum rear axle retention structure situated through and atop the rear wheel centers, etc. The peculiar 'chimney' structure was added to the driveline tunnel overlay which in turn was glued and finish puttied and sanded prior to applying primer, while a pair of tiny roll cage stubs were added to fill the modest gap between the forward roll cage members and what would be the bars tying the structure in to the front suspension pickup points. Although the front wheel housings are rendered rather large and threaten to obscure reasoned efforts to afford detail in their proximity, I still intend to make what I can of the limited space availed to work up the roll cage outriggers leading from the interior portion of the cage nearest the dashboard as is suggested here. Kind thanks... Mike K.

Greetings... Not too much made out here, but noticed are the protective side bars added to the roll cage, the fabrication and addition of most of the console overlay along with an electrical switchbox, plus a period Delco CDI system. The fill panels along the rear bulkhead as well as the side panels formerly occupied by the cast-in seat cushion were likewise redone to ensure all gaps formerly noticed now cease to be. Out of sight would be the steering wheel front which has been scrubbed of it's honeycomb wheel center trim, the spokes of the same opened up for use of a pin vise. Later a drill and round file was employed to open up a hole in the center of the steering wheel so it would look correct as per a rare Model Car Science period photo revealing the configuration of the interior at '70 Laguna Seca. Thanks for your review of this brief update... Mike K./Swede70

Just quickly this... Noticed would be some interior paneling to plug up the rear seat cushion area extending back to the bulkhead formed between the interior and trunk. A bit rough yet, although reasoned enough to create duplicates and refine from here. Pondering the conversion of the other models given everything is fitting better for approaching things in this fashion. Extending the driveshaft tunnel and raising the profile of such towards the back stands to come. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70

Greetings... A visit to the Detroit Autorama Toy Show turned up a slightly damaged 1:24th Danbury Mint 1969 Pontiac Firebird Trans Am for $25. The exterior rear view mirror was missing, while the rear suspension needed a small amount of sorting given the driveshaft had separated from the differential and allowed the two-piece 'functioning' shock absorbers to fall out of alignment. Carefully bending the driveshaft yoke on the back to reset the same in relation to the differential while also aligning bottom half of each shock to slide into the top half of these assemblies allowed the rear end to be reset without the use of glue. Not terrible then... A 1:25th Revell '69 Camaro Z/28 plastic kit afforded a replacement exterior rear view mirror (seen in-position and largely happy), hence it's fairly presentable after a bit of cleaning and work to darker the tires via the use of Lexol/Vinylex. The body was washed here and there, while Mequiar's Quik Wax worked it's usual wonders with the plastic 'glass'. The box, foam shell and paperwork was included. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70

Thanks for the kind notice... Some rapid work across the interior including the removal of the cast-in pedal assembly, plugging of the holes otherwise used to secure each front seat, plus the integration of a partial resin console plug in addition to the fast fabrication of a four-point roll cage based upon existing patterns which reduced the implied misery. Perhaps I should have checked my spares inventory for GMP footwell pedals before I ground out the cast-in detail noticing that I've run out? Again the bulky dogleg door hinges situated well forward have to be avoided, hence the forward members of the cage don't stretch as far forward as might be desired, while the dimensions side-to-side cannot exceed what space the rather cramped interior featuring thick doors and interior door trim will allow. That the floor of the model is likewise thick and situated high also complicates matters, so what finally is judged best equates to a compromise reflecting any number of very real limitations. Undertaking things somewhat differently this time, the rear seat cushion detail has been drilled and filed out, with the plastic panel work leading to the stock package shelf remaining intact. Fill panels to finish off what remains in need of plugging will likely come next. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70

Greetings, Not too exciting, but for quick work a radiator support takes shape. With diecast models it's common to come across missing structure, and/or the need to cut material out and begin anew consistent with supporting the assertion what's on view is a proper scale model versus an out of it's depth toy. Almost impossible to discern, a GMP '70 GTO Judge radiator with scratch built upper hose neck hangs off of the other side of the aforementioned radiator support, the latter carefully hand-fit to the underside contour of the ERTL shell and not illustrated as of yet. Further details will be added and incorporated atop the assembly to break up the sea of black if nothing more, while I'm pondering ignition wiring choices and preparing an oil filter as can be guessed. Anyhow, what can be made out is all the cutting and filing necessary to ensure an 'effortless' fit of a certain radiator support otherwise based on some unsuspecting sheet plastic! Thanks... Mike K./Swede70

Maybe conduct a Google image search for a 1966 GTO in Reef Turquoise and in essence conduct a runoff of those restored examples outfitted with whichever color combination interiors were availed in-period. One or two examples will likely speak to you, confirming that in certain light conditions and presented in a particular way there could be no other choice! Good luck however you wish to proceed... Mike K./Swede70

Greetings... Seen would be a little bit of the engine and transmission purposefully made up of just a few resin parts overlaid onto the decidedly so-so 1:18th Pontiac V8. The body shell is yet another spare (will I ever stop destroying otherwise innocent first-issue ERTL '70 1/2 Firebird Trans Am Firebird models?), hence it's employed here only as a mock up. Comfort for this builder is to have a mountain of spares and wide latitude to make mistake-after-mistake... What can be made out would be some resin valve covers utilizing scarce 1:18th GMP '70 GTO Judge stamped steel valve covers cut apart and wedded with the elongated finned center sections overlapping onto the ends otherwise found on and upon the 1:18th Welly '72 Firebird Trans Am tool. Much sanding and careful razor saw work helped knock down irregularities otherwise present where two distinct finned sections met at the center of the valve cover, whereas the breather tubes and oil fill site were added later and remain incomplete at this juncture. Just quickly, some Tamiya gray wash was employed to lend a bit of distinction to the fin detail short of telegraphing a weathered look. Invisible would be an opened up the reverse scoop opening, while the opportunity was taken to clean up the exterior profile of the Shaker scoop prior to refinishing the assembly entire. The front subframe rails stand to be painted aqua delineating the same from the wheel arch shrouds fitted above each. The stock air cleaner snorkel has been cut off, the 'plate' blocking it touched in with a Molotow pen. Also seen are a pair of cut down 1:18th GMP Penske Trans-Am Camaro upper control arms to lend a bit of visual interest near the base of each inner wheel arch shroud. The cast-in examples were cut and ground out to accommodate the addition of these. Moving ahead even as what's been performed equates to not so much, noticed painted in red would be a resin clone of a scratchbuilt Lakewood explosion-proof bell housing (nothing available? = no choice but to make such), while various 1:18th tools afforded pulley shapes and contours to flesh out the admittedly incorrect accessory drive still incomplete. Lest the decal work be damaged on the unflared shell, it's likely I'll just paint out the SD-455 specific fender to radiator support braces even as I cut these out on the two flared iterations seen further up the thread. Out of sight would be a resin clone of a 1:18th GMP '70 GTO Judge radiator - a surprise in a sense when one might otherwise be expecting a Harrison aluminum model derived from a then-current Corvette. - Just in passing, for pondering period photos I spied what appeared to be a black-painted firewall transitioning to what appeared an aqua finished example as the season wore on, hence one of those instances where a best estimate or best guess might well ruffle feathers. Further and just in brief, the heater core 'bubble' was removed from the firewall looking forward, a fill panel subsequently fabricated and overlaid, although modest further work including the addition of a remote oil filter installation. The intake seen is just a stock part, as is the water pump/front cover assembly. Both profited for applying aluminum paint in a stipple fashion lending necessary surface texture to each. Pressing ahead then, the Dayco D7 outer mass racing fan belts of the period had a distinct checkered black and white pattern seen on the edge of the belt facing out, while here I've tried to reproduce the look if only quickly for the use of a paint brush. Underneath a cast resin copy of a more elaborate extended capacity wet sump oil pan is seen attached to the very basic ERTL rendition, while the crude stock exhaust manifolds here are retained given I very much need to see something to completion even if not every last detail has been addressed on this basic build. 1:18th Hwy. 61 1971 Challenger 426 Hemi street machine headers suitably modified and cast will form the basis of what will be employed on my Lane/ACME 'powered' flared examples by way of contrast. Perhaps not quite an Aviaid product given the racing wet sump pan was likely fabricated in-house by T/G Racing, but worked up and painted in the style of such. Thanks for your quick survey of this project update. Mike K./Swede70

Much appreciation for the kind words... A few steps back, a few steps forward here. For opting to continue work on the model I removed the chassis and interior, but for so doing essentially wrecked the rear bumper which split in two for clumsy handling. Ugh then - although acclimating myself to the hazards of carrying something to completion and identifying what finishes will work (and importantly - those that will not) was part of the plan. That stuff disappears and/or is ruined, that spares are run through, and that expenses mount is part and parcel of any project such as this. A replacement rear bumper is in the mail... Seen forward is the first attempt at cutting the hood art (having been removed and replaced then), while I had made up a small cutting template with an outline of the shaker hood scoop opening from sheet plastic (the newer one just visible in the photo) which was overlaid onto the as-delivered artwork and cut with a #11 Xacto knife. A supply of steely nerve certainly helps here given one doesn't want to sacrifice a $17 decal sheet wily nily. The waterslide sheet was first taped to a breadboard, the cutting template subsequently aligned and held fast with additional lengths of tape, and then the cut was made. Mild revisions to the shape of the template opening resulted in less visible discrepancies around the opening, hence cutting out the hole on or inside the hood stripe art holds less horror than it previously had. Fear existed that I'd ruin many stripe images before some reasonable compromise was reached in terms of fit, although happy I am to report that the challenge can be met. Although not quite as together as previously illustrated, also noted will be the replacement and resetting of the door numerals both further back and lower, as well as greater care exercised to scrub to shape and paint the areas on the doors/door skins I'd plugged and puttied consistent with cleanly blending the effort into the as-delivered paint finish. Following these quick photographs, the hood numeral was replaced, set just a bit lower and aligned at the base to parallel the profile of the grille opening as viewed from the top. Thanks... Mike K.

Greetings, Small scale stuff, but a few light additions to relate/report. I'd forgotten to specify that I'd like a T/G Racing emblem included on my 3 Amigos Decal decal sheet - or rather artwork commissioned for such, whereas here a 1:25th Fred Cady waterslide sheet of old was tapped to provide the same atop each front fender side indicator. It appears to me that the Cady effort may have been rendered a touch large, although here on a 1:18th rendition the images look appropriate. Another scarce set was ordered to supply myself with duplicates for the other two 'Birds (four T/G Racing emblems are provided on each sheet then), the effort setting me back about $27... Other additions would include a quartet of cast resin GMP Trans-Am Camaro hood pins, thinned as much as I dared, created in excess numbers trusting a few would be lost for painting hiccups and clumsy handling, etc. Despite worries that they'd prove useless, setting each in place and adhering each with dots of thick CA glue proved very doable and discreet for appearance. Also made out would be R/C aircraft vinyl tape employed to demarcate where pit crew ought to situate a jack prior to lifting the body, the tape proving superior to solid color waterslide material and less labor intensive versus masking and painting the same. R/C tape proved expensive at $16.95 for a roll, albeit now I have a lifetime supply. A dot of black paint inside the recess where a lock cylinder would be found on the deck lid conveys the fact that no such assembly was fit to the T/G Racing Firebird racers. Almost invisible would be some axle end detail inserted into the center of each rear wheel assembly, with dust/grease caps added to the front wheels for good measure. Extended Minilite lug nuts stand to come, albeit not quite yet! A bit tedious, but the rear bumper was removed to facilitate the careful erasure of the license plate installation with Molotow pen disguising what I hope appears untouched for the labor undertaken. Furthermore, a refueling port was added to the quarter panel top on the passenger's side reflecting the configuration of select tracks in-period (trying to mix up things then), with a Hwy. 61 '70 340 Dart affording a fuel cap here given an OEM design was called for by then-current SCCA rules. Light duty stuff in total, but generally fun... Mike K./Swede70

My apologies that I can't enlist a kiddo suitably attuned and equipped with better image capture technology to telegraph the finish applied to my resin wheels. Point well-made and taken though; i.e. my experience of the hobby and feedback generated would be enhanced with better gear at my side. - What I could take is seen below - although I'm not sure the very subtle metallic clear overlay would strictly be captured even with the best camera. It's almost as though nothing special is on offer; i.e. the effect more sensed then strictly noticeable for the finish being applied too heavily and risking being too obvious. I haven't yet fashioned extended lugs from hex rod stock as I have in the past, whereas depending on application, so too have I substituted in turned aluminum outer wheel rings to suggest a bare machined surface, inserted hub dust caps or axle end detail, while air valves and wheel weights are other things that can be introduced. The dust or grease cap made out here is just a repurposed cast resin oil breather which is consistent with what one often must do in 1:18th in particular; i.e. improvise, improvise and improvise again... My most current family photo then. I have a lot of models, although far from hundreds. At least with the custom work what I do have becomes personally that much more special, hence having three of what would seem to be the same car isn't really experienced as excess. Faint evidence of where the GMP metal lugs are set helps to guide where replacements can be positioned and glued, although clearly not yet. Probably discussed before (hence forgive me if I repeat), the resin wheels constitute something worked up long ago and formed the first resin casting project undertaken given I wanted many a duplicate for my 1:18th SCCA Trans-Am conversions. The 1:18th GMP 1969 Penske Trans-Am Camaro release came through with an approximation of the Minilite design painted up in yellow with metal lug inserts, although a close examination of the same reveals little in the way of a taper on the outer rim lip and poorly shaped spokes more peg-like as opposed to suggesting almost a waterfall profile to those well familiar with this design feature. Frustrated by this, I decided to hand sculpt my own spokes and substituted in or on a revised outer rim lip with an appropriate taper. The back two-thirds of the GMP wheel was retained, while the wheel spider or center pad was retained after being scrubbed of original spoke detail. Stacked plastic rectangular stock was employed to provide the bulk of each spoke, twelve were formed and the best eight of these were saved and blended into what was recycled from the GMP design. A lot of work in total! Also discernible would be two round pads or bosses that might otherwise be tapped for an air valve if these were wheels to be used on the street, although for racing applications the practice was to relocate any such valve to an area between two of the wheel spokes lest the valve be torn off in close contact with other vehicles and course obstacles. They came out pretty well even if they aren't lathe-turned or 3D-printed, hence I continue to use them. Kind thanks... Mike K./Swede70

Greetings... Long stalled on this pair of 1:18th diecast-based projects, very recently I was given an example of what each of the above projects is based upon; i.e. namely a first-issue ERTL '70 1/2 Pontiac Firebird Trans Am in what is intended to be Polar White with the expected tape graphics as per stock. Some might posit that the Welly '72 Firebird constitutes a better starting point for being a more modern tool, and in truth they could build a strong case. Nevertheless, long ago I decided to start here... Worried that certain issues hadn't been addressed or strictly risked with the cumbersome and delicate flared bodies, I thought maybe I could try out certain finish choices and run through the decal application process for quickly working up a third Titus Firebird Trans-Am racer of strictly limited scope. The idea here is to build a bit of confidence for securing the visual 'pop' of applying finishes, alerting myself to certain hazards for taking some chances I'd rather not risk on the two most elaborate builds, and generally telegraph what could be done or reproduced by the reader without strictly reinventing everything. Anyhow - perhaps thin justification for a third same-year Titus Firebird project! With this you may proceed on to my rather poorly-illuminated photo uploads... Note the odd first-generation exterior door latches sometimes seen on the pre-production panel work afforded T/G Racing and employed every now and again on-track. Given the standard ERTL latches are quite terrible, the '72 Welly items both scarce and expensive, here spare GMP Penske Camaro items were substituted in. The 3 Amigos Decals didn't have much surface sheen, hence an application of Mr. Color Clear was applied to brighten things up. The graphics proved color fast, whereas setting solution didn't dissolve the artwork thank heavens. Some finer decals proved a challenge to control, hence a duplicate decal set eased felt tension for affording myself latitude to make a few mistakes. In general and to this point note that I've not removed the chassis or interior, concentrating instead on the visual elements for swapping in a set of resin Minilite wheels (finished in old Model Master Stainless Steel buffing with a light overcoat of Tamiya TS-65 Pearl Clear to suggest a light mag. alloy sparkle) mated to the usual four rear sized GMP Penske Camaro Trans-Am tires. Foil around the front windscreen as well as the rear screen was done with the model all assembled, the stock plastic 'glass' in-place. Color the practice tedious... The over-the-top standard ERTL tampo-printed 'tape' graphics were removed with about a hundred cotton swabs used in combination with a bottle of 100% acetone, with dull sections worked over with NOVUS 2 polishing compound until they looked normal. Decal work represents my first use of the 3 Amigos waterslide decal graphics commissioned long ago, while cutting material out of the hood center stripe/graphic to make room for the shaker hood scoop constituted a big 'What If', or more specifically 'How in the world will I perform THAT?'. I ended up employing a tracing of the hood hole, transferring the same to a plastic sheet template, then I scribed the shape onto the actual decal and delicately removed what needed to be removed prior to using sanding sticks and a coil of sandpaper to clean up the edge of the decal while it remained on the paper backing sheet itself. Not work for the timid! For not stripping the Zamac/white metal body certain disadvantages become apparent only for a close look. The standard ERTL finish is suitably glossy, although the white finish seems to have a touch of gray if not a faint amount of blue in it - something I tried to mix up when a limited effort was made to snap off the exterior rear view 'racing' mirrors, plug the resultant holes, contour the same and touch in what evidence remained. To strip off the paint also allows more attention to be paid to the shape and integrity of the window trim both front and back (a matter then of filing and filling with putty prior to final shaping), whereas on the other two cars I opted to file out the side window opening weather striping and ground the faint rain gutter trim flat. Seen up front are some of my usual resin additions with regards to the head lamp and front indicator fill panels, an attempt to black wash the cowl-area vents on the hood, plus in-situ fender air extractor vent paint. The '72 Welly Pontiac Firebird Trans Am tool is far superior in this regard, featuring separately rendered vents even as I'm clueless with regards to how remove such without damaging them. Yes - the Endura nosecone Firebird is part of the decal set, while the shaker scoop was cleaned up a resprayed Model Master No. 28128 Nassau Blue Metallic - obsolete and no longer available, but desired just the same! Thanks for your review of this ongoing and endless project post... Mike K./Swede70