swede70

Greetings... Here the engine assembly makes a reappearance following an effort to match the dimensions of the material added above the Jo-Han '72 Torino NASCAR floor insert. A bit raw at this point, but reasoned as-witnessed. Also made out would be a trimmed AMT late Thunderbird fuel cell insert cut to drop into the recess afforded within the space of the same Torino floor insert when viewed from above. The battery is a standard Jo-Han issue. Mike K./Swede70

Greetings, A friend afforded me a spare Jo-Han '72 Torino NASCAR floor insert, hence an opportunity to redo work previously undertaken consistent with working towards tighter fit of everything was had. Notice that the floor extends out just back of the AMT late Thunderbird NASCAR roll cage side bulges to better support the paneling situated below each rear three-quarter window, while effort was also made to remove the standard Jo-Han transmission/driveline tunnel and replace such with a slightly extended AMT late Thunderbird NASCAR item. Thanks... Tighter fit around the rear wheel housings as well as the trunk sides was achieved. Here the trans/driveline tunnel hasn't yet been cut out even as a new partial firewall has been added consistent with pushing up the frame rails to where they'll need to sit. A lot of work briefly touched upon, the trans/driveline tunnel vanishes from the Jo-Han floor insert... ...and just the revised AMT late Thunderbird NASCAR trans/driveline tunnel stretched forward and resting in place, while the faint seat location rails afforded by Jo-Han have here been quickly scrubbed out. Thanks for your review of this project update. Mike K./Swede70

Greetings... Tedious and fated to vanish under a coat of semi-gloss black paint, here I've revised the roll cage protective side bulges to feature three vertical rows versus the late AMT late Thunderbird NASCAR issue two rows. All were trimmed off, the remaining horizontal tubes cleaned to disguise the work performed, then twenty-four elements were individually fitted to round things out. Not a lot of fun in total for certain. In addition, the panel work forward of the bulges was shortened on the spare assemblies, the dash mounts revised for shape, while a good pattern for the firewall was worked up consistent with mating such to a revised transmission tunnel to include the better part of the AMT late Thunderbird NASCAR driveline tunnel that's simply overlaid here after being cut out and isolated from a parts kit. Some movement then... The small half-oval shapes help stabilize the front of the roll cage to the inside of the body, whereas it seemed best to retain the slivers of material to site the new firewall barely taking shape just forward of the dash. The bottom third of the firewall where matters would be set on an angle and blended with the transmission/driveline tunnel hasn't yet been worked up. Fairly plain at this juncture, but clean. For clearing the profile of Jo-Han '72 Torino driveline tunnel below, the AMT Thunderbird implant will come down and blend properly. In particular, I didn't want to lose the finely-rendered shifter platform. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70

Kind thanks for the considerate notice, hoping to maintain pace then... Wholly unnerved that I'd wreck my best 3D-printed shell (not 'mine', but rather what I'd purchased and worked over) for attempting the removal of the hood, deck lid, plus bumpers and grille, I'd avoided undertaking the effort until now. Happily after seven hours of medium drama, things are generally on the up with all the aforementioned bits hacked away. Fine fit work consistent with ensuring the same parts sourced from another shell will live in harmony with/upon what's seen is still to come, but in the main looking good. Another builder/friend has come through with a replacement Jo-Han '72 Torino NASCAR floor insert consistent with allowing me to try again, hence better on that front too. Kind thanks again... Mike K./Swede70

Just hacking away what threw me a day or so ago. It was a PM message post, hardly salacious, but somehow not robot-friendly. Thanks for the guidance concerning what to properly make of such. Mike K./Swede70

Thanks for the kind notice... Seen is the Jo-Han '72 Torino NASCAR floor insert trimmed on the sides to allow for the reuse of the AMT late Thunderbird NASCAR roll cage protective side bulges and narrowed AMT '74 Penske Matador dashboard from before. I'm hoping to source another floor insert given the trunk area was too aggressively trimmed and hence could fit tighter, although the rear wheel housing shapes arrived at seem serviceable enough. Hoping to mark the best body shell with ink spots to delineate where I'll have to drilled a tight succession of holes to remove the hood, bumpers and grille assembly. Cutting an unseen third shell to isolate the same parts proved dicey given the material frequently shattered, although modest block sanding and drilling didn't provoke any untoward behavior in full truth. If I can achieve reasoned results, then the effort should be that much more comparable to the old Model Car World transkit that pops up for sale every now and again. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70

Greetings... Not much to see in total, but for picking up another Starsky & Hutch chassis I was able to fashion a pair of floor pan overlays to lend greater definition to things underneath. In essence, the floors have been doubled up, with the integrity of the Jo-Han part topside maintained as I ponder how to alter it to accommodate the roll cage, firewall and rear bulkhead structure. Noticeable will be the removal of the forward third of the Jo-Han frame, with the substitution of what had simply been overlaid before. Nothing is glued on presently, while some small additions will be made to basically clean up things before I bond things securely. More work to come then... Some further floor material stands to be added forward of the transmission cross member, whereas another late AMT Thunderbird NASCAR kit will likely be sourced to afford a better firewall assembly modified to mesh well with what's made out here. Just preliminary stuff, but the header collectors are Jo-Han AMC items, while unseen is the upper rear shock mount tube structure stolen from the AMT late NASCAR Thunderbird kit tack glued in-place and happily not hitting anything on the Jo-Han '72 Torino NASCAR chassis above the rear axle. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70

Greetings... Having to take a step back for what now seems a bit of misdirection, seen will be the beginnings of a new chassis configuration that I hope I can carry to completion. An AMT-boxed early iteration of the Jo-Han '72 NASCAR Torino release was purchased with the aim/idea of blending the late AMT NASCAR Thunderbird half-chassis/front clip to it, whereas out back the short trailing arm design and full frame would be retained even as the best late AMT NASCAR Thunderbird parts including the 9 inch Ford rear end might be quietly substituted in. After awhile I couldn't ignore what I was seeing in the period research materials I was gathering, and at least for this topic, I believe this to be the best way forward. At some point an AMT '65 Ford Galaxie 500 XL 'Jolly Green Gasser' chassis was purchased for parts to see if that would work (not a ghastly option if one starts with a Jo-Han '70 Rebel Machine or MCW resin Penske Matador shell), whereas so too was a Revell '76 Starsky and Hutch Torino considered. I hoping that for another attempt with yet another Starsky and Hutch chassis I might attempt a floor implant of a sorts (suggested by the photo attached), although I'll have to wait on that right in the moment. Oh well; i.e. what seemed robust progress slows for what I overlooked before. Thanks... Yet another shell appears above - but welcome if only to reduce wear and tear on the first I purchased. Just overlaid onto the Jo-Han frame, this is pretty much how the later AMT NASCAR Thunderbird half-chassis/front frame clip will be grafted on and in... It was strange to find a Jo-Han Dana 60 rear end included in their NASCAR Torino tool, hence no choice afforded to retain all Jo-Han materials out back. Very preliminary here at present... ...and just a sense of what extent of material might be used for the floor pans versus retaining something undetailed and too slick for my purposes. Thanks for your review of this post. Mike K./Swede70

Greetings... Having taken delivery of a second 3D-printed shell, I did my best to slice the bumpers, grille, hood and trunk off of the same consistent with opening up finishing options otherwise not strictly possible. The material used to create the rendering is alternately strong but brittle; i.e. for fine shaping after cutting away bits that snap off with a certain suddenness, things become more predictable. Block sanding is required to come up with a smooth surface across the rendering, although once the major surface irregularities and almost topographic build up of material has been evened out, one can slowly forget how rough and hopeless things first appeared when a certain box arrived in the mail. Slowly taking shape would be the vertical rows of tubes within the roll cage side protective bulges, with three rows intended to supplant the two rows as-delivered. A coat of TS-80 Tamiya Flat Clear effectively saves my too glossy PPP tires w/markings in the wake of a misjudged selection of clear applied earlier. Still requiring further bumper guard reduction into the grille area in particular, but generally clean. Soon after I cut small channels between the grille surround and bumper on each end to achieve somewhat better definition here. The hood was block sanded, while I'll likely try to remove or at least reduce the texture of the 3D-print remaining on the underside of the same panel for more aggressive sanding. While seen quickly would be the rear bumper with tail light surround/cove trim. Also needing work, while the trunk lid needs some application consistent with rebuilding the bottom lip given I made something of a mess of it. Even if I don't open the trunk, nevertheless it would be nice to have panel line definition otherwise scant. Thanks for your review of this project update. Mike K./Swede70

Greetings... Me - contradict myself? Oh well - for further research and the help of others like-attuned on a topic level it seems that at least on the first Holman-Moody built car which was debuted to the press, contested Riverside, Daytona and Ontario, the short arm rear suspension (bottom links then) with two links atop matters equates to the appropriate setup. Following this, Penske Racing apparently separated ways from Hutcherson & Pagan in terms of sorting/maintaining the package, proceeding ahead to build another chassis with things configured more to the teams particular liking. The Michael Argetsinger book Mark Donohue: Technical Excellence at Speed has been helpful to discern how long the first chassis lasted (apparently it was first scheduled to be set aside prior to Ontario, but wasn't - probably for the best given the collision with Bobby Issac), hence some research elements are coming into view. Reference afforded within the Paul Van Valkenburgh/Mark Donohue penned racing autobiography The Unfair Advantage from 1975 suggests that for registering awe and respect towards Junior Johnson and his efforts with the Monte Carlo, apparently the Penske team wanted to fit the long Chevrolet truck trailing arms on whatever chassis they'd campaign as the partial '72 schedule they ran wore down. Poor aerodynamics and likely less than best power output was more to blame in retrospect, hence I'm not really sure how the second car or what was run in '73 was actually configured, although this much related, I suspect the long trailing arms made it into the package. Later 'frogeye' Penske Matadors fielded are said to have been outfitted with the short bottom trailing arms which muddies things, although I haven't found material (yet) to confirm. - Trying then to clean up the frame and floorboard area for filing out the residual triangular structure otherwise lingering further back along the rails as well as patching things forward to even out the profile of the oversized gussets if I have that right. Generally looking good - if I go with this particular chassis configuration! Just the other side on view then. I want the work to be clean most certainly... Basic beginnings on a spare cut apart chassis to the extent of plotting out a short four-bar late Holman-Moody rear suspension. Here the springs aren't sited below the trailing arms but situated inboard, while notice too that material has been removed from the axle hump area to afford space for spring buckets, related bracework, and upper shock mounts. Mounts for the bottom trailing arms stand to come, while the attachment points/pivots on the rear axle will likely be redone too. Thanks for your review of this project update. Mike K./Swede70

Thanks for the kind continuing interest displayed... Not (yet) finding evidence that a short Holman-Moody four bar rear suspension was fitted to a comparatively early '72 to '73-season Penske Matador, thus far I'll be doing a long Chevrolet pickup truck lower arms with the top links (still a four bar setup then) with a Watt's linkage combined with single Penske shocks out back. Here I've added some kit parts, but also have added some stiffening structure as per information gleaned from a period Steve Smith Stock Car Chassis engineering title. Also spied here will be a rough test fit of the cage sides as they bulge into the door skins, as well as a quick impression of how and where the dashboard hangs. Sort of hanging in space, but I rather like the Revell '69 Camaro driveshaft for the nicely rendered U-joint detail. I might redo the shaft itself - but the joints will likely stay! Discreet, but the perforations for the fire bottle installation cutting right through to the top of the driveshaft/driveline tunnel were plugged. Still cleaning up around the chassis stretch area, with further trimming and refinements to come here. The roll cage will be complex in more ways than one; i.e. it'll likely install in two parts and not be strictly glued in-place entire when final assembled. It's just too tight a fit, while the body isn't pliable to the extent that I feel I can get away with any other approach. The dash is just narrowed recycled AMT Penske Matador issue again. And although just a blur of resin here, the flush exterior door latches were removed, set flat on a bed of clay, filled with a small amount of resin, sanded flat, and reset in a slightly countersunk orientation to suggest an unpunched door skin that might otherwise accommodate the installation of a stock latch. While here the yellow seen along the base of the front 'glass' is just Tamiya tape temporarily holding narrowed AMT Penske Matador front screen in. I had sufficient material to fill out things right across and between the A-pillars top and bottom, but was overzealous and trimmed the lower section narrower than I ought. Yes - multiple kits perished as I've gone about working through problems one-by-one here. Thanks for your review of this project update. Mike K./Swede70

Thanks for the kind interest... Seen is the second chassis suitably stretched evidencing more careful shaping of the wheel housing 'metal' to achieve a tighter fit relative to the body. Only just learning about matters such as a late Holman-Moody short four-bar rear suspension and how it would be configured, hopefully for application things will come into view. Also witnessed would be a slightly revised engine now featuring select Jo-Han implants in the form of a timing cover/housing, a water pump, a modified intake (given the Edelbrock Torquer open plenum 'X' design came into use only later), a starter motor also Jo-Han derived with other small alterations planned. The PPP tires made out were ruined for my injudicious choice of a clear coat that proved too glossy, whereas the Holman-Moody NASCAR pressed steel rims done in resin were drilled out to afford hub detail up front, and axle retention mods out back - the latter appearing a bit tiny and thus slated to be redone. Kind thanks for your review of this project update. Mike K./Swede70

Thanks for the kind notice... Having taken delivery of another AMT NASCAR Thunderbird kit, I was able to lengthen the chassis with instructions provided by Hks Charger via Tim Stevens. A mock up AMT Matador engine was worked up to afford some understanding concerning how things might align (or not), whereas the Thunderbird Banjo Matthews roll cage was cut apart to leave only the protective side bulges. These last elements may be discarded and replaced based upon the quality of what I might work up solo off the project. Hardly an out of the box resource ready to integrate with the 3D-printed shell, here I've slid the AMT NASCAR Thunderbird roll cage structure further forward on the chassis 'rails' provided. I like doing roll cages from scratch, although I'm a novice concerning all that a period NASCAR racer will require. Some quiet research is being done consistent with filling my knowledge gap concerning such matters. Moving along, the firewall was plugged and puttied consistent with ridding the engine bay side of strengthening ribs and essentially starting anew, while soon the fresh air duct work will be cut into the cowl area to expand and improve upon things. The last image affords an oblique view of the floor pan patches/extensions blended in, while after performing such work the tape employed to tie it to the roll cage bulges was no longer necessary. Very slow work at this point, although I've never been all that quick or necessarily that focused. Thanks... Although not photographed, the side bulges fit neatly into the door recesses without much work but for grinding off the door jamb detail. Still pondering if I should assemble the cage as one piece given installing such glued to the chassis in combination with the stiff body shell likely won't be easy let alone possible; i.e. I'm thinking of developing something that would drop into place for falling into the side rail/slots. A Jo-Han water pump and distributor is coming for the engine, while the accessory drive will be revised somewhat. Hardly visible here is a stacked dry sump pump/scavenge pump setup (hardly great in terms of how it was tooled), and the fast add of a Jo-Han AMC alternator. Seen forward is an AMT Penske Matador dash narrowed and installed so that it'll align with everything above and to each side. The four bar rear suspension needs top links, while the AMT Thunderbird chassis really isn't configured to afford space for the same setup. Anticipating further surgery, notice the white sheet plastic patch just resting in place here. While tucked below the dash, here the floor and transmission tunnel patches largely blend in. So far, so sane. Thanks for your review of this project update. It might be said that I post too much, but then know that I very much appreciate the enthusiasm and interest radiated back, viewing light participation as a resource in turn. Mike K./Swede70

Greetings and doing my ambassadorial bit as such things go... 1. I suspect that the instructions and paint recommendations researched and recommended across plastic kit manufacturers is some of the less prestigious work within the company and oftentimes reflects a largely lame effort to promote sales of common hobby items situated next to the plastic kit section of a department/hobby/hardware store versus reflecting much in the way of accuracy. Before long a new builder will refer to the instructions regarding paint choices scarcely at all, relying instead on textual and photographic resources to inform the way. 2. Although perhaps making too much of things for a novice, usually I'll collect a great many images online and across digital image archives - to speak little of gathering period magazines and related items such as programs to best establish how a topic was configured and at what venue. Think like a restoration and fabrication facility with deep resources to establish the best informed estimate regarding how things should be - then act. A well-researched succession of choices regarding how something should be configured and finished basically defends itself from critics, whereas some better informed 'heads' won't strictly respond with important information or insight unless they feel their input will be appreciated; i.e. telegraph respect for the topic and due seriousness and those lurking in the shadows will notice and will contribute if they believe what they might afford in terms of insight won't go to waste. 3. Careful review of period reference would best relate how things are handled and done, whereas I'd guess the seams were largely correct. With a head in a book or for analysis of images one can in time come to 'own' a topic, becoming something of a lay authority given few might strictly pose a question plus pursue the matter to a logical end. 4. Indeed - if a scale topic doesn't look good on wheels; i.e. if the ride height is off, if a wheel is hanging in space, if the track is incorrect or if wheel and tire dimensions call attention to clumsy scaling or telegraph the impression that one is looking more at a toy rather than something to be taken seriously - then yes, best to alter or correct things should this be within the realm of the possible for you. Appreciate too that most builders/modifiers of plastic kits purchase more than one example, and silently if not off screen test this spare kit or kits to destruction as they learn to alter the ride height, expand or narrow the track, steal items from one kit and adapt the use of such to another, etc. Yes - multiple kits were hurt or rendered so much trash for my experimentation consistent with learning what I felt I needed to, whereas basically wrecking things for harboring ambitions too great or unestimating the difficulties to be encountered is pretty standard experiential stuff. 5. (Here I fluffed my answer for not really reading your question, although still some insights to share. M.K.) Yes - some manufacturers will develop a reputation in relation to work done on a particular tool consistent with having on offer the best rendition of whatever one strictly desires, although this is not to say that a box stock build (all parts afforded from the same tool or kit) strictly leaves one debilitated. Proceed in stages and expense looking forward. You may be in the market for a pre-wired distributor to keep matters simple at this stage. 6. Sources online vary greatly - to say the very least. Expect to take some lumps for climbing a learning curve consistent with developing an understanding of how the actual racing cars are configured, how they developed, and how the rule book evolved consistent with affording what you'll see or discover. I would suggest developing a period magazine and book collection, while I highly recommend developing familiarity with the new online digital image archives in the form of Petersen Publishing/SAE, Revs Stanford, Getty Images, etc. as soon you'll come to rely upon such heavily. Even something like a Google image search pounding away with a succession of search terms altered just a bit to conceivably capture everything (example: 'NASCAR AMC', 'NASCAR Matador', 'Donohue Matador', 'Penske NASCAR', 'Traco NASCAR', 'Marcis NASCAR', etc.) basically taps out all the possibilities and fills up a stick drive with most everything that would be free. Deeper resources typically demand deeper pockets, while actual vehicle and race series message boards can and should be identified and tapped. Good luck then... Mike K./Swede70

Greetings... Just quickly this, here I've altered the rear spoiler to better reflect the ducktail profile seen in period photos. I had a pair of AMT Penske Matador rear bulkheads that evidenced a curved lower profile that I thought might be isolated and blended to the front side of the AMT Thunderbird NASCAR rear spoiler, and for plugging one area and extending out the sides I was basically able to capture the shape. Some putty and subtle shape refinement is still required, but in the main a nice upgrade. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70

Thanks for the interest demonstrated and the advice proffered... Earlier today I ordered a second shell, thinking that if the chassis builds up in a fashion consistent with my wishing to display things underhood, then I'd cut up another consistent with having an opening hood, and freeing the bumpers and grille assembly to manipulate and finish and/or apply finishes with less risk. Worried then that I'll overstress the shell for working towards a tight fit of the rollcage, bulkheads and rear wheelhousings in particular, but if a sound mockup of the chassis can be developed that also slides reliably into the shell, then what results will alter the equation concerning what I'll deem possible for this project. - Seen briefly would be the fuel cell housing built up in recent days. Hardly visible in most period shots, but discernible to the extent of informing a guess as to the dimensions of such. Mostly an organic addition to the AMT Thunderbird Banjo Matthews chassis, and no deeper than the frame rails lest it be scrubbed and punctured. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70

Greetings... Hoping to work up some extended Minilite wheel lug nuts from plastic hex-shaped stock (very tedious when twenty or forty are needed at a time), provided below is some reference material dating back to communication had with an Indianapolis, IN based firm that had acquired a substantial stock of spares in the wake of the Minilite bankruptcy proceedings years ago - a company and name since revived. What's nice is that illustrations as well as the actual dimensions of lugs sold and employed across series is on offer, hence save these images should they be relevant to your projects in turn. The photocopies date back to the late 1990's at least when I had a 1974 BMW 2002 which then wore period Minilite magnesium alloy wheels. Usually I calculate a loss rate when starting out with hand fabricated lugs, presuming some will fly into space, others won't be drilled accurately, still more won't be properly rounded along one end, etc. Length may be inconsistent, whereas painting each can prove tedious and affords further opportunity for fumbling matters. One can add air valve detail to the rims (situated between the spokes for an SCCA Trans-Am racer lest a valve be torn from a wheel in close contact with another competitor, this leaving the pair of dimples or bosses intended to be drilled on the rim taper uncut), while taped wheel weights secured with duct tape (silver then) is another thing to consider adding. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70

Greetings... One from the Department of Obscure Research in terms of insights gleaned, for application I finally found a means to trace the Penske logo that shows up across the air and oil filters as well as the shock absorbers employed on the early Penske NASCAR Matadors. In their racing endeavors Penske Racing had started to build their own shocks, valving each to suit, and entertained thoughts of producing other specialized wares in-house. Likely in late '70 or early '71, Penske struck up a deal with Sears & Roebuck Co. to market a limited line of tools and service items through the department store chain which was expanding to include service areas selling Die Hard batteries, Sears tires, etc. Most of the range was doubtlessly badge engineered, although there was money to be made. A search of eBay employing the words 'Sears' and 'Penske' generates a mountain of results made up mostly of grubby timing lights doubtlessly unearthed from within equally grubby garages, but careful skimming of the results also reveals the logo desired by this scale enthusiast. One small leap for man, a giant leap for early Penske NASCAR enthusiasts... Mike K./Swede70

Greetings... Small stuff, but noticed would be the replacement of the headlamp fill panels with carefully trimmed aluminum rod 'wafers' with the ends spun in some sandpaper to afford a swirled finish to each, the substitution of an AMT Thunderbird rear spoiler onto the back, new cast resin Holman & Moody stamped steel NASCAR wheels (a blur of white these), and unseen for being situated below - a fuel cell housing scratchbuilt from five sheet plastic panels guided by period research materials. The $2.99 eBay-sourced David Marcis 8x10 color print really impresses and certainly inspires! Thanks... Mike K./Swede70

Thanks for the kind notice... Here I've ground out the fainted rendered flush AMC exterior door handles and replaced the same with cast resin Jo-Han Javelin versions that will be filled and ground flat before being sunk into the surface of each door panel/skin. I never liked building up layers of primer and paint upon otherwise nicely done Jo-Han AMC flush handles and eventually cut up a wrecked body to cast them solo, whereas here at least I have a well-shaped template to fill and countersink as required. Continuing refinement of the shape of the front valance panel opening is witnessed, while the contour of the bumper around the license plate opening too has been adjusted. Hopefully a debris screen can be fashioned and added without too much trouble. Further, first view of the project on wheels even if I'm just establishing track and ride height sans chassis. Just Jo-Han Superbird NASCAR wheels at this point, while Holman & Moody stamped steel issue have been ordered and are in the mail. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70

Greetings... Opting if you will to carve out the front of the shell to open up the valance area as per period photos. I inadvertently snapped the valance panel at the bottom center of the 'vee', although happily the 3D-printed material isn't hugely brittle and my error shouldn't strictly dissuade others from trying to file things to shape as I have. Also made out are some front turn signal/indicator overlays consistent with suggesting fill panels, although these might be replaced with vent detail leading to the brakes. Thanks... '72 Ontario and on the scales being weighed. Here things are fit flush consistent with one might expect at a superspeedway... ...eBay reference with regards to the shape of the turn indicator. Solo parts listings can provide reference otherwise tedious to collect at car shows, etc. The opening worked up for slow application as viewed from beneath. Pondering the purchase of a second shell to cut to shreds consistent with having an opening hood, greater flexibility with regards to finishing the bumpers and grille, etc. Viewed nose-on then and generally looking tidy. The top leftmost corner of the licence plate recess needs a touch of work to look right, but in the main it's good. Kind thanks for your review of this project update. Mike K./Swede70

Just in short... A trimmed rear spoiler so as not to overlap from the deck lid, and further fine adjustment performed on the rear cove insert. It would be nice if I could have done this correctly first time out, but alas - I didn't! On the other side of the shell I cut through the quarter panel and inserted a recycled AMT Allison Matador fuel inlet/cap which looks well at home. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70

Excellent Dave - I'll check your photo file account consistent with reviewing things... Attached would be a preliminary attempt to fit a 1:25th scale AMT Alan Kulwicki Thunderbird-sourced chassis to the shell even as I'll have to lengthen the wheelbase a bit. Not knowing specifically how these chassis were adjusted for wheelbase during initial fabrication, here I've wasted an example and subsequently was forced to order a replacement off stage. Obviously still learning, although the next try should be better! Kind thanks for the notice... Mike K./Swede70

Just some quick panel fabrication consistent with filling in the rear bumper/cove area as per period photos. Not much to contemplate, but clean and a small step forward. Whoops - its seems what I worked up will have to be shorter across the top. Thanks... Well - it still needs to be squarer across the top, while the spoiler element apparently shouldn't be wider than the deck lid as per the period photo. More work then... Mike K./Swede70

Thanks for the kind interest... Fearing that the rendered-in door jamb detail would prevent a roll cage plus interior from being fitted, I made an effort to grind out all I could intent on securing clearance for the protective roll cage bulges in particular. In practice, not that difficult to achieve much to my relief, while also seen would be resized AMT Allison frogeye Matador plastic 'glass' which works well enough. I decided to leave some material near the cowl area to help stabilize things when panel work is added, while things here are generally on the up. Thanks for your review of this project update. Mike K./Swede70