swede70

Very nice indeed - thanks for sharing. Mike K./Swede70

Looks very nice indeed. Thanks for sharing... Mike K./Swede70

...while this would be a pair of reference images for a '68-'69 trunnion front suspension with taller, solid suspension turrets, and further, with the fenders in place. Use of a a separate lip beneath a standard Jo-Han body shell wide enough to mount panels or panel work beneath solves the problem of creating an undercut profile (where dictated or required) that nevertheless fits tightly above along the whole length of whatever assembly is worked up. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70

Greetings, Long unenthralled with the inner fender/inner wing detail afforded by Jo-Han even within the space of their SC/Rambler tool (modified iterations included and seen further up this thread), hope exists to scratch build something that could be fit to my range of Javelin Trans-Am projects. Differences rooted in the use of and for later abandonment of the trunnion front suspension design for ball joints would be factored in, as well as subtle alteration of dimensions and quirks characteristic of the Jo-Han '68-'70 chassis versus the '71 and later chassis. Seen below is some very basic and preliminary work consistent with setting the stage, as well as a few reference images courtesy of the 1:1 restoration crowd (a '70 with the new ball joint front suspension turret design being featured here then): Back to my little scale world, a dead '69 AMX body gave it's life to afford material from atop each fender as well as the cowl area to ensure whatever might be added below will mate seamlessly to the underside of any Jo-Han Javelin shell, while the next step would be to fabricate carefully shaped fill panels to flesh out the front subframe top surfaces situated further down. If all this comes off, then the rest might be sensitively fleshed out. Early days then, and while the engineering hack is pretty ugly, at least the dimensions for such seem stable and true enough to allow for shameless experimentation. Thanks.. Mike K./Swede70

Looking very nice indeed, anticipating further progress for the topic is a favorite one. Thanks for sharing... Mike K./Swede70

Looks very good. The wheel color choice seems entirely appropriate, while the Hoosier sidewall markings also look the business. Thanks for sharing... Mike K./Swede70

...while this would some group shots of my later Trans-Am Javelins receiving roll cage work one at a time consistent with ensuring reasoned symmetry if nothing more. It's a bit easier if similar work is undertaken across the three seen here lest I forget lessons learned for going back and attempting to generate like results on what often came out of the same shop in-period. Some bars still need to be added, while each is a compromise given what Jo-Han afforded in terms of space within each interior. Thanks. Not a great angle, but at least efforts to ensure that the cages fill out the space afforded, that they rest tightly without strain and appear reasonably symmetrical can be appreciated at a glance. The wet sump oil pans are resin copies of the early issue part which included hardware along the mounting flange. Given I'll need to create either Aviaid extended wet sumps or Weaver Bros. dry sump pans, it's nice to have an easily replicated starting point as it's certain I'll waste a few examples learning to do what I must. Mike K./Swede70

Thanks again for the kind notice... Not hugely exciting this, but seen is a scratch built shifter platform intended to be shared across Javelin projects mated to the irregular contours of the the Jo-Han Trans-Am Javelin floor. It still needs a bit of help, although it's mostly there. Also made out is one my resin battery boxes resting quietly in the passenger's side front footwell, although some further material will be added to it. Of passing note, the interior is a very rough casting sold by a certain unsteady and less than reliable source on eBay. One can make out evidence of core shift along the driver's side door trim top facing the camera, while even more flash was witnessed when this hulk was pulled out the box it came in. No effort was made to integrate the locating tabs into the casting that otherwise cleanly site the part to structure provided by Jo-Han and hidden within the tail panel area (i.e. nothing hangs off the back of the rear parcel shelf as one would expect), while in this instance the eBay seller made a very crude effort of things consistent with roughly casting the locating tabs individually and just tossing them in the box. In 1985 this would have been state of the art, whereas in 2021, it's substandard and not worth the money. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70

Nice work - a good compromise given it can be hard to find suitable tires for a vintage topic even if it reflects updates consistent with what might be seen at a modern day vintage event. It's always nice too if one can introduce some turned aluminum parts or subtle photo-etched items onto a model which can help greatly to telegraph quality - something often lacking on sealed resin renditions of this or that even as costs soar. Just in short, it would be nice to have a hobby lathe, and braver still it is to do such work by hand. Your work (always) appears very clean, hence however you achieve your ends, the techniques in play clearly do what is necessary. Shuffling wheels and tires consistent with establish what's good and separating out what isn't is a constant battle with my own 1:18th scale period road racing models, while coming up with sidewall markings that represent what was appropriate in-period vs. what corporate will license now to subtly promote the brand irrespective of accuracy can be irksome if a topic calls for such. Not here though - hence just mulling things aloud. Thanks again for sharing... Mike K./Swede70

Greetings, This was some material cast to help facilitate repair work and especially delicate paint work across my Javelin Trans-Am projects. In essence I could be called a masking coward given if I can break something up to do things mindlessly and cleanly - that's what I'll do! From top left, a '68-'69 standard shift boot (to be combined with the Hurst shift lever for RKE/JRT entries), plus a '70 Penske hand laid fiberglass fresh air/intake housing. The second row depicts an AMC Model 20 rear end (just half given I have a small supply of third members shared with the Dana 60 SC/Rambler tool), a '70-'72 passenger's footwell sited battery box less mounting structure, and a reasonably clean transmission crossmember given these are often glue burned on rebuilders. The bottom row is made up of a broken up standard ram air system intended to better facilitate paint work for having a separate base (two are seen upside down and scrubbed of the topside detail), plus a separate seal, air filter element and air filter lid (something that might be chromed). Thanks... Mike K./Swede70

Greetings... On the topic front stated I do the same thing, hence some parallels there, while I scratch build cages for like-themed models in 1:25th and 1:18th. Happy to help (as in instruction and guidance), while some contributions to other threads would likely tap what I and others have related before without overdoing things. There is no definitive approach, but rather just whatever assemblage of insights and techniques that deliver results in total. Seen below would be a '69 Jo-Han Javelin RKE/JRT effort with a scratch built cage fashioned from plastic tube with a brass wire core, plus a pair of images from a 1:18th GMP '67 Penske Trans-Am Camaro project that needed help. No holes were drilled into the interior base, with nothing strictly tugged, pulled or squashed. PM me only if you'd wish to. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70 (a reference then to the late Swede Savage)

Thanks everyone for the input and enthusiasm both... I was shopping for Smooth-On tire resin options earlier today as this was posted, while as an alternate approach I'd never used Tamiya's TS-82 Rubber Black aerosol to contemplate the qualities of such. If all fails on the scale rubber/flexible material front, then I could just do four pairs of suitably filed and shaped halves to come up with what is witnessed below. I'll likely mark off small sections of what's seen to apply various clear coats, but also for applying/trying diluted Armor All, Vinylex, and any other products or combinations that come to mind. Note that the tire half seen is the first example pulled from the urethane mold seen higher up on this thread and was filled with the usual junk, covered with mold release, etc. I also hadn't sanded off the raised sidewall line or filed away any material from within, although most will agree the paint is pretty good stuff as would be expected of Tamiya and all they do. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70

Thanks for your interest... I'm not versed concerning the small range of American-tooled and produced 1:12th kits done to this time, although I do have some pie crust sidewall tires that I half-imagined were 1957 Chevrolet issue. Helpful was the purchase at an area toy show of a bag of all the 1:12th wheels and tires someone had ever purchased and had done little with (o.k. - like I should talk!), while some '57 Chevrolet full wheel covers were included inside the same. No Japanese stuff, although I doubt the Otaki range would strictly have offered up anything spot-on for what I needed. The same can be said for the current (at least when this message was posted) Shapeways 3D-printed range which trends towards Pro Street and super low profile stuff not strictly desired from this quarter. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70

Greetings... For still further hacking and sanding the tire project comes closer to final as witnessed in these mock up photos. The raised sidewall red or goldline ridge (intended then on the earlier Corvette tool) was laboriously scrubbed out, while note that the intended width of the revised tire is coming into focus. The mockup for ride height and track could scarcely be less sophisticated (too low, and a bit wide on each score), but otherwise fairly decent. Thanks for your review of this post. Mike K./Swede70

...while if it would be of any interest, what follows is a review of a paint mask worked up to accurately apply 1:1 restoration spray paint to the stamp steel wheels even as the as-delivered kit pieces have the trim caps and rings cast in place. A COX 'Big Bertha' model rocket nose cone was cut apart to come up with the shapes needed, while the rest is mostly made up of thin painter's plastic sheet, tape, and some plastic for a dust-free masking frame. It's reliable as can be witnessed further up this thread, and not terrifically expensive to make. The 'Big Bertha' kit (less solid propellant engine) was had for a heady $7.99... Top of same with some small brass rods to hold the center trim cap mask firmly in place. ...as viewed from the bottom. The nose cone has a rounded base that was trimmed to come up with the extra and unexpected shape to accommodate the raised profile of the wheel trim cap. While no glue is used to secure the mask in place even as a small frame was worked up to hold the plastic sheet evenly across the face of the set up. Low-tech then, and reliable for operation. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70

Greetings, Planned long ago but needless to say delayed for execution, these would be some tire modification images consistent with coming up with a stock appearance. The wafer-thin Corvette tires seemed salvageable in terms of tread detail, but less beguiling given how thin the section is. Also, the raised presumed redline or goldline sidewall detail needed to go, while anything that I might do to improve the fit or tweak in terms of the rims used was something started when this project was current. A brief run through then... Just indicative of what's sought, with reference to the sidewall profile and tread width... ...seen above is the initial tire mold needed to capture most of the tread as well as the best sidewall detail. ...the tread 'crown' on the 1:12th kit tire is pushed back a bit, a factor that will help to disguise the fact that I've combined two castings to effectively widen my scale vehicular footwear. Tamiya black panel line wash was used on the trim cap faces, while very delicate Tamiya cotton swabs were used to clean excess paint hand applied to the fluting on the sides. ...both the stock wheel 'face' as well as wheel back has been carefully countersunk and centered, this usually a problem with regards to ensuring the hollow vinyl tires look appropriate when otherwise employed. ...while waiting quietly in the wings, these would be my most current multi-piece wheels with separately rendered trim caps and rings. Note the small gap existing between the trim ring bases and the center stamping, while the trim caps now ride a bit 'proud' too. Thanks for your review of this post. Mike K./Swede70

A very nice and clean effort as is your trademark. It's a relief for some new manufacturers to arrive on the scene in the form of Model Car Group, KK and others consistent with affording us some product that isn't strictly going to stop the hobby dead for being too pricey. Even so and even if, I'm certain your period club racer collection of carefully thought out and executed builds numbers more than 100. Thanks for sharing... Mike K./Swede70

Thanks everyone for the guidance and photos. I'll likely search for some parted out scraps along the lines suggested and proceed from there. Thanks again... Mike K./Swede70

Greetings, I'm trying to work up assemblies for what will be a '71 Penske as well as a '72-season Roy Woods Racing Javelin Trans Am racer very slowly building - a pair then. Not being versed concerning what's been accurately tooled across the range of contemporary road racing as well as NASCAR kits, to say little of what might availed across the cottage/aftermarket scene, I was hoping someone looking on could make suggestions if knowledge exists. Basically the setup is a Weavers Bros. dry sump system with the expected stacked scavenge and pressure pumps, the toothed belt Gilmer drives up front, combined with a modified stamped steel pan adapted to suit. The oil tank is sited essentially inside the firewall, while it's assumed that most of what is seen I'll have to make up from scratch. ...a '72-season RWR Javelin Trans-Am dry sump Trans-Am mill resting on a pallet. Note the interesting 'box' intake manifold... ...viewed from below, the pump assemblies and robust mounting bracket. Mike Eisenberg image. ...test fit into the unrestored chassis, seen from below again. This is also a M. Eisenberg image. ...predating the Penske Matador effort, seen is a stock stamped steel oil pan modified for employment with the dry sump oiling system. M. Eisenberg photo. ...while these would be my '70 to '72-season Trans Am Javelins awaiting their fates. The '70 spied further back will make use of a wet sump design, likely an early-season Aviaid model. Just wrapping up then, if some really excellent toothed belt and drive system parts existed in another tool consistent with making both better and shorter work of things, I'd be most appreciative of whatever guidance might be availed. Yes - I do have the AMT Penske Matador kit which has it's points but isn't earth shattering in this regard. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70

Greetings... A favorite would be the BMW E9 platform produced from '68 to '75. This would include the 2800 CS, the 3.0 CS and CSi as well as the 3.0 and 3.3 CSL models. Body by Karmann Coachworks, while the funniest thing I've read concerning their handiwork is that Karmann invented rust - then licensed the process to the Italians! ...ignore the museum identification applied to the end of the front fenders above the beltline trim which looks strange indeed. Chamonix (White) isn't a terrific color for this car, although these were amongst the best images I could find for a short search. Yes - Mikey likes it! Mike K./Swede70

Greetings... This would be a Jo-Han '70 Penske Javelin front bumper project brought back online for some recent developments. The promo bumper 'features' a prominent cast-in license plate with the word 'JAVELIN' spelled out, whereas the Donohue Trans-Am release is plain, albeit unperforated as the 1:1 stock bumper would otherwise have an opening that would afford a bit of airflow back to the radiator. Additionally, it seems Penske Racing did some modest cutting and reshaping of their own, hence coming up with an accurate opening takes a bit of work. ...the topic at '70 Mid-Ohio, the photo sadly unattributed. The extended tabs used to attach a license plate within the space of the cut out in the front bumper along the top have been trimmed and removed versus stock. A small debris screen is very likely there as well. Given I should cast this for some plating reverses experienced as of late, some other changes will feature. Note that the cast-in headlamp detail has been filed out even as the raised headlamp rings remain in place. Otherwise one is compelled to use the too high standard Jo-Han fill panels/overlays, hence something subtle this. Seeing things through, it'll be my aim to remove the front turn indicators to allow the Jo-Han fill panel inserts to reliably fit flush, while also be readily removable for pressing from behind. As-delivered, the Jo-Han parts 'ride high' and prove tedious to remove and reset even when sanded flush. Hopefully all will be better soon. Thanks... ...while noticed to the right would be some cast resin U-joints and a scratch built passenger footwell-sited battery box intended to be replicated, cast and spread across my Penske and Roy Woods Racing/American Racing Associates builds. May things come right. Mike K./Swede70

Greetings, Long forgotten, for some material sourcing a bit of attention is paid to this build. I'd wanted to find 1:1 vinyl interior restoration spray paint in the appropriate '69 yellow hue and eventually found what was needed from a first generation Camaro specialist known as Heartbeat City. About $30 a can, but it's definitively the right stuff and covers well. I did this quick on a spare panel simply to determine if I could trust the stuff... Also sourced was license plate artwork done a computer and printed onto paper. It doesn't sound like much, although I really doubt I could have afforded myself the results achieved by Michael Hanson at Best Model Car Parts who was very flexible and accommodating consistent with turning out what was needed. Notice all the font is right, while all the associated peculiarities of a press pool car/manufacturers plate of the period were accurately captured. Nice stuff most certainly... ...likely the best front licence plate view from M. Lamm's The Great Camaro. ...what was sent me by Michael Hanson and very nice indeed. And lastly, having two front bumpers in hand, it was my opinion that the Endura bumper ends seemed a touch taller as contrasted to the chromed iteration, while the slightly rounded corner contour along the top back ends wear the stamping blends into the front panel work needed subtle reshaping to capture more or less accurately. Not a complete success, but seen below is what I came up with. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70

Thank you both for the leads and ideas consistent with getting me where I want to be. I'll be doing some further research on the pattern and count per inch to firm up what I'll require, and then proceed to shop for designs that might be reduced and printed on decal paper. Thanks again... Mike K./Swede70

Greeetings, Searching for suppliers and likely leads consistent with doing what's necessary on a 1:12th '69 Camaro Z/28 featuring a yellow interior with yellow and black patterned houndstooth inserts. I finally sourced 1:1 vinyl interior paint from a supplier, but alas haven't yet turned up decals to pull this off. Guidance sought then. Kind thanks... Mike K./Swede70

Thanks... Looking largely consistent, the '72 RWR Javelin is also up on wheels w/cage after filing and fitting the red plastic late dashboard seen further up this thread. Forward one-third then... ...the wheel arch contour is different, while this example wears a '71-'72 grille/front bumper assembly less bumper guards if nothing more. At least it looks pretty honest. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70