Brendan

Jonathon, I see the names but the names don't match the drivers of the actual car. That's why I'm thinking it's a replica or restoration of the real car. They still do race these cars in Vintage Races and those could be the drivers of the Vintage Race.

When I lived in Saratoga, I remember seeing those cars when I was a little kid. I think there was someone down the street where I lived had one, but it's so long ago I can't remember exactly. By the way, nice build.

I'm thinking that this car is probably real. It is either a replica or restored version of the JLP-3. I'm thinking it's a replica because the names on the top of the car. When the car was racing, it was mainly driven by John Paul, Jr. and John Paul, Sr. As for the windows, none of these cars ran with glass. They ran with plexiglass so it would have a plastic look to it when pictures were taken of it.

That's going to be an interesting build. I like the look of the H3 rims. Are you going to do anything like brush guards or auxillary lights?

I like the work you've done. It's going to look very cool when it's done. I'm not a big Ford fan, but I do like the stance, look of the car and the race trim. Have you seen the Mustang that is running in the Speed Vision GT Class? The drawing looks very similar, but not in that paint scheme.

This is a build I'm doing for a customer of his street legal Cheetah. The kit base is of the Historic Racing Miniatures Cheetah. There are many modifications that I have to do. I'm slowly making progress. I'm going to be using MCW's Roman Red #5901 for the body. I'll be undating soon. Here's a picture of the actual car that I'm trying to replicate. This is a picture of the kit. This is what I've done so far.

Love hearing the comments. Simon, Were the problems visible right off the bat on the 962C that you did? The problems I had weren't visible until after painting and laying down the decals. They are just little problems that could have been easily fixed. But I really like Profil24. I think their kits are excellent. It's just the past couple of kits have not been up to my expectations. I'll probably keep on buying from them because they do subjects that I like.

The build progress is moving along quite nicely. Can't wait to how they're going to look when the kits are finished.

Aaron, I would suggest looking at an automotive supply that sells automotive paint. They should have some good dual cartridge respirators. You look for ones that are for organic and inorganic material. They will also say what they can and can't be used for. When you do, get a big plastic bag to store your respirator from the outside air. That way your filter cartridges don't go bad. Good luck in your search.

My model room set up is pretty simple. THe room is 11x12 and it's about 132 square feet. The materials cost was about $250 to $300 for the booth and benches. I did a simple ladder frame construction for the benches. The bench tops are plywood and then high density particle board. That way if you ruin the top of the work bench, it can be replaced inexpensively. Make sure that you build the benches high enough for your comfort and so that you can easily reach everything. My spray booth is simple range top fan with variable speeds that directly connected to the outside. You want to look for a fan with enough air flow so that it can suck out fumes quickly. You're looking for a high CFM hood. Here are some pictures of the layout with all the creature comforts...for example, TV and video games...while waiting for models to dry.

Thanks for all the comments! Bob, if you do pick up this kit, send me a message and I'll let you know about the problem areas that would be nice to know about before starting the build. As for the car you saw at Rennsport, it is probably the sister car to this one. There were only two of these cars made and I know the one my model is off of is in London right now. Was the car you saw the long tailed or short tailed version? The gentleman just restored the Le Mans car back to the original long tailed version. This is the car that started the trend of doing open cockpit cars again.

Very nice build. Was wondering...Did the kit come with the hood with the vent and the side skirts? Or did you make those yourself? This is one of my favorite cars.

For trying to match the yellow, have you tried MCW? He will custom mix paints for you at a pretty reasonable price. I have used him several times and he has come through for me every time in matching up paints. Look on his web site and either email him or send him a colored photo and he can match it. Hope this helps. Let us know when you get finished. I would like to see what it looks like when it's done.

Just finished the Profil24 Kit. The kit needed a lot of work. A major problem I ran into was that the casters made the center line of the car off by over 1mm to one side. I also had problems with the decals not wanting to stick to the model, but that was solved by several coats of clear. There were other problems but they're too numerous to mention. But I had fun building it. The blue is TS-54 and the silver is a mix of TS-75 (60%) and TS-11 (40%). The silver has a slight gold tinge which it is supposed to have according to all the reference photos/video that I have seen. Not recommending kits is unusual for me, but I'd make an exception for this one. Feel free to make comments.

Just finished the Profil24 Kit. The kit needed a lot of work. A major problem I ran into was that the casters made the center line of the car off by over 1mm to one side. I also had problems with the decals not wanting to stick to the model, but that was solved by several coats of clear. There were other problems but they're too numerous to mention. But I had fun building it. The blue is TS-54 and the silver is a mix of TS-75 (60%) and TS-11 (40%). The silver has a slight gold tinge which it is supposed to have according to all the reference photos/video that I have seen. Not recommending kits is unusual for me, but I'd make an exception for this one. Feel free to make comments.

The flat clear that I use is Model Masters Flat Clear Lacquer Finish #2015. It's the exact same as what Jairus mentioned since both products are made by Testors. Another thing you can do if you cannot find any dull coat and if you have clear gloss available is to add talcum powder and mix it into the clear to the desired flatness. Just make sure to do a test shot since it can come out white if there's too much talcum powder added.

I was lucky enough to be at the races and those were the best looking Corvettes I've ever seen. Your decal work is really nice! Please let us know if you are thinking about selling these decals cause I'd love to do this car. I am looking forward to seeing your progress on this build. Thank you for sharing this work.

I believe this is the car that GM was developing to run in the GT2 Class in the ALMS and as a factory car. Though I'm not real sure. But would love to see one built up as a model.

I have had problems in the past with the Tamiya primer being lifted up by Duplacolor, but I think I sprayed it on too early. Make sure you test it before you do it because it's a pain when you ruin a paint job.

Raul, Wanted to make sure you're aware that Testor's Enamel Primer is not an actual primer. It is just a gray paint. It does not do anything to help paint adhere to the plastic. When I worked in a hobby store, we used to have people come in with the same problems. I would tell them to use either Tamiya's primer or automotive primer. Your best bet would be to stip it down completely and start with one of the primers mentioned above. You'll definitely be happier with the result. On top of that it dries within a couple of hours.

I'm surprised Ismael didn't crash the server for the amount of Corvettes he's built. Here's my Fotke site for my two Corvettes C6R GT1. http://public.fotki.com/30howden/corvette/

The group has pretty much answered the second part of your question, but for the first part, the reason why they cost so much is that you are paying for the shipping/freight fees for them to be delivered from overseas and also the retailers have to do a mark up as well to make a profit. It's the same way if you look at the Revell kits over in Japan, the price is almost doubled or even tripled.

I have used Gorilla glue quite a bit. The reason why it asks for moisture is that the moisture helps it react to harden more quickly. If you live in an area where there is a lot of moisture in the air, you do not need to put moisture on the surface. As for uses for casting, I would not suggest it. This stuff sticks to just about everything even if there is a releasing agent to it. (I have tried and failed several times.) Being a polyurethane glue, it bubbles up quite a bit. It would make it so you would have a lot of imperfections in the casting. I have gotten it on my skin before and it didn't come off for over a month. It's both a sheer and compressive strength glue. If you put it on two pieces, make sure you use clamps because it will push the pieces apart. My dad and I used this glue to put together his wooden drift boat. It is one of the few glues that is 100 per cent waterproof and is used mainly in wood construction. Hope this answers some of the questions.

I'm pretty much in agreement with the rest of the group. I don't like seeing cars being shown at the same show every year. I may only hit one or two shows a year and I've been seeing it happen quite often at the NNLWest where some people are bringing the same cars for several years in a row. All it does is put me off from looking at that person's other kits they've done. I have brought one car back to a show, but I completely redid the car. I also write notes on what I've done to it and I also let people know that that particular car was shown in the previous year. My kits usually don't win, but if they do, they get retired. I bring about 14 new models to a show each year so I have a pretty good stock of kits to show.

Very nice Batmobiles. But it needs to have a ten foot flame shooting out the back! Always like your builds.