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Marc @ MPC Motorsports

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Posts posted by Marc @ MPC Motorsports

  1. You will need the hood from the Chevelle kit. I have one of these that is pretty much cleaned up and ready for primer, been that way for a few years.


    If you aren't familiar with resin, do a search here for lots of tips. If you want chrome bumpers, you can get a 1969 El Camino rear bumper and taillights and a 1972 Chevelle front bumper from Modelhaus.

  2. Now see....that looks good!! Nice job on that Chevelle!! How did your front end turn out?

    I used MV Lenses for the headlights after I drilled out the molded in ones. I didn't bother with the turn signals.


    I really need to take some decent pics of the finished model. I never did that.

  3. Very nice looking build! B)

    What kit did you source the small block and headers?

    The Modelhaus bumpers that are sourced from the 1969 annual and promo is what I used on my '69 Chevelle. It is the only way to go when building this car.


  4. I just sent the bumpers and grille to Little Motor Kar for replating, so this one might just move up the list a few notches. LMK if there is anything else you might need. I'm keeping mine all metal axle, so I can't help you out on the Revell chassis swap. There was someone on Ebay a few years ago that sold some remastered interiors for these trucks with separate seats. I picked up two of them while they were available and will use one on this build.

    Marc, I see on RMR's website a '67 w/ 6'bed. Is that it or is it something else?

    That's it and Ron will sell the bed and hood separately. Email him for a quote and availability.

  5. Yes, you can use either the AMT 1972 Chevy truck or the AMT 1972 GMC step side truck kits for what you need. RMR makes a one piece short wide bed with minitubs and separate tailgate. I have one...


    They also do the cowl hood. Bandit Resins also does a multi-piece short bed.

    Click here for contact info for RMR. The trim on the RMR bed will match the 1968 trim if that is important.

  6. I have to respectfully disagree. As an owner of a real one, that revamped annual version kit is not even good enough for a simple curbside.

    As an aficionado of vintage model kits, only the level of detail, especially chassis and engine detail, is an improvement over the annuals. As a former owner of a second generation Camaro, the look and feel of the rest of the "newer" 1970.5 Camaro missed the boat. I would rather have the outside "look" right as the details are not seen once the car is on the shelf.

  7. To avoid any potential confusion, I wouldn't call the 1989 (see box art below) kit "the orginal release" since it was actually the final version of AMT's annual kit that evolved from 1971-7 and ended up as the AHC100 custom. There was a very, very poor attempt to backdate the kit into a 1970 Camaro in '89, and I don't think it's a stretch to say it's not a well-liked kit. Bad enough that they just started over with the kits discussed up the thread. It's too bad they ruined this tool, since the earlier Camaro kits were all pretty nice, and it would have been nice to see them return as reissues. Now they just have a messed-up annual tool that's basically good for nothing.


    The chassis and engine in the 1989 kit actually date back to the 1969 annual. Like Mark said, the original annuals were quite nice and would be nice to have. The 1970 annual had molded in vinyl top texture and all the 1970-73 AMT annuals were the non-Rally Sport body style with the full-width front bumper. I have a number of these in my collection and really like them. The originals were 3-n-1's with stock, custom, and drag options.

    I also have three or four of the 1989 issue pictures that will be used as donor kits to restore my annuals.

  8. The acrylic Aluminum paint is decent and has its place. It must be shaken and stirred well and like all acrylics must be fully cured before attempting a second coat. I use Testors Metallizer sprays, Alclad metallizers with my airbrush, and other Tamiya lacquer sprays like silver, gloss aluminum, and my favorite AS-12 bare metal silver. Applying semi flat and flat clears will give even more shades and sheens and black washing will help bring out details.

  9. Thanks for the update. Just curious, are you going to fill the area under the fron of the seats or are you going to finish cutting off the are under the seat like the one on the left has about 3/4 of the way done?



    The front seats were fully repaired with sheet styrene.




  10. I like the color ya used. Is pactra enamal (same fourmla as testors) or is it lacquer? Does it dry flat or under a stays glossy under a gloss coat? I have a good primer that I use so crazing may not be a problem, but if it's flat and i went to apply it over a gloss base (say the wal-mart paints) it would mess the whole thing up, ans I don't want that happening...


    Thanks for the kind words. The Pactra RC paint is a lacquer that is designed to be applied to lexan RC bodies. It didn't seem too "hot" as it went over Tamiya primer with no problems. If you use this paint, I would use Pactra's black base coat and probably Testors lacquer clear or Tamiya TS-13 like I did.

  11. Well, I've started plugging away at the Camaro again now that the 1972 GTX is finished. Applied BMF to the front and rear window openings and painted the vent window frame with Testors Acryl Flat Black.



    Here's a sneek peek at the interior...


    I like this picture because it shows the remnants of the major glue dump in the original 1967 interior tub. It will be hidden by the flocking.

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  12. Is there any way to get a resin casting of the roof of this car to convert a '59 into a four door sedan?

    Sure there is. Just like the discussion regarding the AAM 1959 Biscayne, purchase about 5 pounds of RTV silicone, a few pounds of the right type of clay, and some resin and make a mold of the body. $150 or so in raw materials and yours or someone elses time (and more $$$) and you can have all the roofs you can use.

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