Rusty92
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Posts posted by Rusty92
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Thanks everyone for the encouragement! I got a little bit done tonight. There are two obvious flaws in my paintwork on the cab. Thanks to my fat fingers!
I was able to tackle the one on the cowl tonight, and I think it turned out pretty good. Good enough for me anyways. After all, the hood will be closed most of the time. See below:
Hopefully tomorrow I’ll have some time to work on the back of the cab. I also got the inner fenders and core support painted. Not worried about the uneven lines as they will be blended with washes, grime, and other weathering materials. Thanks for stopping by and checking it out!
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Not much change since one year ago. Finally got my new desk set up and I’m ready to finish this one. I have to order some paint but this will be one of the first to get done. Her it sits now. I do have 6 lug wheels, just not painted yet.
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Today I finally got my hobby room set up at my new place. I haven’t really built a model in over a year and haven’t completed one in probably closer to two. I hope to get back into the hobby soon! I need to re-decorate the room I think haha!
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This is a great tip. Thanks for sharing.
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Ahh the ‘56. My favorite of the tri-fives!! Fantastic work!
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I built this kit as well. It was a challenge for me, I wish I would have taken more time. You’ve inspired me to pick it up and give it another go!
I am enjoying your work as always!
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17 minutes ago, THarrison351 said:
180 headers optimize the exhaust pulse from the cylinders. The headers allow you to match to an exhaust port that is in a better position of the power/exhaust cycle to help "scavenge", meaning to help pull forward the exhaust gasses from the opposing cylinder which in turn creates a cleaner, more HP producing combustion in the next cycle. The reason they run over top of the engine is two things. First as you can see, the pipes have to run side to side in order to get the exhaust to meet the opposite 180 degree collector. Second, If they ran under the engine the engine would be raised, giving a higher CG and screwing up the handling. Some NASCAR teams experimented with 180 degree headers and all the early Monogram NASCAR GM cars had these on them. The NASCAR cars can get away with running the pipes under the the engine because of the dry sump oil pan.
This was some excellent information. Thank you for sharing.
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That looks pretty cool!
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Wow! I am pleased to hear the news!!!
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This is cool
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@HJK, thank you for the kind words. I will try to list out my steps as best as possible, if you have any questions on steps that may be unclear, please feel free to ask.
1) all body parts are primered in AK Interactive surface primer - rust. It is a very runny primer so I usually do several light layers. No more than 3 so I don’t lose detail.
2) I take a sponge (I prefer the yellow ones you can get at craft stores) and cut off a chunk, and distress the edges to create a random edge. After doing that I apply a variety of AK or Mig paints via the sponge. I use these 3 most often it seems, but they make a ton as I’m sure you know. As they say, a dab will do you. Make sure your sponge is not too saturated, change up how you hold it and where the it makes contact with the model. You’ll want to take a picture of this to use in step 5.
3) Once that layer of paint has dried for a few days, give the model 2 light coats of hair spray and allow that to fully dry. Don’t worry if it goes on a little heavy, you can wipe it off and it will also evaporate a little bit. Cheap hairspray will work just as well as the high dollar stuff!
4) The hairspray should be dry after about an hour or so. Then you can paint the model/part your color of choice as you normally would. Or keep it lighter in some spots if you please to give it a faded look.
5) let the paint dry for a few hours (maybe more depending on your paint) and begin chipping away at the layer of paint you just applied. Reference the photo in step 2 to focus on chipping the paint off where the rust was created underneath. To chip paint, I recommend doing a YouTube search, or clicking Here. I use water when the paint is coming off easily, and thinner when it is putting up a fight. It really depends on the paint and cure time. You can accomplish chipping with a stiff brush, or a soft brush and cutting off the hairs almost down to the nub. Here is a brush that I use to do my work. It can be quite aggressive at times so be careful. You can go through the hairspray and primer if you’re too rough. Below is the brush I use:
6) After this I apply a variety of washes to the model. Rust streaks are accomplished by making vertical lines down the model with the rust enamel wash, and later blending them with white spirits. I watched This video to learn how to do this effect better. It is really handy. And if you goof it up, just wipe it up with some spirits and try again. You can put on the rust lines thick like in the video and “neck” them down to a smaller streak. For washes, I will liberally coat the model with track wash and let it sit to dry just a bit. Then I blend the wash better with enamel spirits, eliminating any brush marks along the way.
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Mock up. Still need to weather the bed a bit more. The 6 lug wheels are not out of paint yet so not pictured here.
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Got the hood done.
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40 minutes ago, TarheelRick said:
Going to be one fine truck. One source for those tires and the 6-lug wheels is http://www.fireballmodels.info/ Very easy to work with.
Thanks for the heads up. I ended up getting a set from the Black Widow ‘57 Chevy.
6 hours ago, Tom Geiger said:Looks good! Thank you for knowing the bed sides are fiberglass! I stopped counting how many rusty ones I’ve seen over the years!?
I originally did not know until I saw a for sale listing for a bed and it mentioned “no cracks.” The wheels got to turning and I figured they were fiberglass. Pretty cool!
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Working on some weathering today. I also got the white airbrushed on last night. The bed is lighter than the cab because the bed is fiberglass, and this truck would be sitting outside so the sun would really get to it.
I have not weathered the passenger side yet.
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On 6/6/2020 at 10:49 PM, unclescott58 said:
I didn't expect just a television test pattern. I don't understand why someone feel a need to post that here.
Some members find it more interesting to try and make every post or thread funny, thus derailing the entire thing.
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New Revell kits are sealed with the circle shaped piece of tape. Hobby Lobby kits have had those for a while now.
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18 hours ago, highway said:
You're still not obviously understanding that from the vendor's distribution information everything is saying TRACTOR! That and the fact that the price mentioned in one of the comments that the price would be 61.99 Euros and no price for the American market had been determined yet, but that figures out to close to $62 here in the states which is exactly what the distributor I was inquiring about the wrecker to is selling the recent reissue of the Kenworth W900 should be another clue it's going to be just a TRACTOR! Even Revell USA is ran out of Germany, why would they be giving prices in Euros if it was here? You can still believe what you want, but I know when distributors information says it isn't coming, IT ISN'T COMING!
There’s no reason to berate another forum member the way you do. Just let it go. Doug shared his post with a photo of the wrecker and they said it was coming out. And honestly, I would have believed it as well. I still do believe that it is coming. Perhaps your distributor information is wrong? Give it a break. You’ve disrupted a perfectly good thread with your rude behavior. FWIW 61.99 euros to USD is about 66.75. Not 62. Gosh I hate that misinformation that people spread here
On 4/21/2020 at 8:44 PM, highway said:I don't like false information, especially when it makes me look like I'm the one that doesn't know what I'm talking about!
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8 hours ago, highway said:
So you asked?? Strange that I can only find someone else asking when I looked on Revell USA's Facebook page, and I know from the trucking groups I'm in there your profile pic is the same on Facebook as it is here.
Anyway regardless of who asked, finding the answer from Revell may explain the confusion. The answer says" A " Pete 359 is coming out in the summer, it does NOT specify that it will be the wrecker. Hopefully it will be, but with just a vague "a Peterbilt 359" answer may be just the tractor kit.
Why are you so upset about this? It will be okay. It’s just plastic.
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Looking very nice!! I like the detail you’ve done to the interior.
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Nicely done so far.
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I have one of these as well. Very nice work so far!
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Looking very nice!
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58 minutes ago, NOBLNG said:
This is looking super!
Thank you! I’m liking it a lot myself.
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‘57 Chevrolet half ton pickup truck
in WIP: Model Trucks: Pickups, Vans, SUVs, Light Commercial
Posted
Can’t forget the oil! It’s a good song.
A little bit of progress tonight. I used the hairspray method to chip my inner fenders. I did not go overboard with the rust effects. I’ll let it dry a bit more and dry brush some more dirt and grime on to it.