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Anglia105E

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Everything posted by Anglia105E

  1. Just tried replying to your topic, but cannot get past " Page 404 Error " - Not sure what's going on? Copy.txt
  2. Sorry to butt in on this topic, but is Basswood the same as Boxwood ? David
  3. Rob.... I have the garage tools set no.3 by Fujimi, which has the bicycle included with it. As you have found, there are some interesting individual models in the Fujimi set. David
  4. I admire your courage Bill for taking on this monumental task and I have to admit to being too scared to even consider it. You have allowed 2 years for getting the parts together for the build, and you have wisely allowed a further estimated 2 years to complete the build...... and I hope you achieve just that. Of course, this will be a truly wonderful 1:8 scale model car once assembled and you have other builds that will take up much of your time..... distracting you from the BIG ONE Good luck Billl..... you are the man ! David
  5. Cale..... it is the peeling paint on the front wheel arches that stood out for me, on what is an excellent build of yours! David
  6. Don't laugh Pat..... my fault, I knocked the fire bucket over and tipped the contents onto the showroom floor..... it is sand ( black pepper ). David
  7. Just playing around with some showroom interior shots, and making use of the 1931 Rolls-Royce Henley Convertible, which is undergoing extensive repairs at the moment. A model builder friend of mine who lives locally, pointed out that a gentleman would take off his hat whilst inside the building..... a valid point indeed. David
  8. That would be my preferred method also Jim..... using ' choose files ' , just to the right of the paper clip thing. David
  9. As well as Photobucket you can also use Flickr of course. ( JC ) Great work on the heavy dyno Pat, and one more detailed machine tool for the workshop. David
  10. JC..... Your work on the Peterbilt truck is excellent, and I hadn't heard of chrome duct tape.... possibly not available in England? Myself, I do like the Molotow liquid chrome pens and I have found that for best results you need to apply the liquid chrome over a high gloss surface. This can be gloss paint, or highly polished plastic or the best finish is Yacht Varnish. Interesting technique with the OpenOffice drawing program, and I agree that finding the most suitable figures in the scale required is very difficult. Painting figures to look like real people is a very precise skill that not many of us can master ( myself included ). Also, you make a good point about the finish on the painted truck not needing to be showroom quality, and this applies to models that I build and paint, apart from the Rolls-Royce motor cars that do need to be as near perfect as humanly possible. I did apply two coats of clearcoat for several of my early model cars, but I discovered later that the finish wasn't as expected so I tend to wait until the final matt coat has dried for around one week, and then polish the bodywork with Meguiars Carnauba Wax polish, using microfibre cloth and yellow duster to finish off. David
  11. I can see that you and I are probably on the same wavelength JC, and thanks for the complimentary comments. Each time I put together a scene, I find myself looking at the setting afterwards and asking myself these questions..... what is going on? What are the people in the scene doing there? What could possibly be about to happen? This fits in with your theory of ' safe escape ' because it is almost as though I am withdrawing into a 1:24 scale world and walking around the streets outside the Hooper & Co building, where it allows me to think from the perspective of a 3" tall 1:24 scale man. Hopefully, this process should help put together the whole collection of vehicles, buildings, street furniture, lighting and figures. I see the exhibition diorama as the big container, in which there are smaller containers that are like mini dioramas, and these can be moved around and changed on a regular basis. There might be the lorry unloading or loading materials, or a fuel tanker selling cheap fuel from jerry cans, or a chauffeur taking out the luggage for the owner of a Rolls-Royce motor car, or perhaps several people queueing at a bus stop...... a Police constable standing near to the Police public call box, a lady or a gentleman with a motor scooter or a bicycle..... these are all ordinary everyday things that are going on when you look around a typical city environment on a daily basis. I have studied the work of Michael Paul Smith, who has sadly passed away very recently, and his work certainly inspired me to start this project. There are obvious differences between Michael's work and mine, such as there are no people in Elgin Park.... no figures at all, also he used diecast Danbury Mint model cars whereas I tend to use plastic kits that I have built myself, mixed in with a few diecast Franklin Mint and Danbury Mint models where appropriate. Michael set up his small table outdoors and he was a master of the forced perspective technique, as well as using his brilliantly constructed scale buildings indoors and outdoors. My diorama is always indoors, so I make use of 100 watt daylight bulbs, as well as both black and white and colour photography. Some of the photographic scenes have been captured from within the showrooms of the Hooper building. David
  12. The large wooden crate has been loaded onto the Bedford OLBD dropside lorry, which has been covered with a green tarpaulin and secured with hessian rope. We see the driver of the lorry getting ready to leave the premises of Hooper & Co with his important load.... the contents of the crate are unknown to us. As you would expect, the managing director of Hoopers is keeping a watchful eye over proceedings. This is probably very early in the morning and well before the rush hour traffic builds up on St James's Street. The haulage firm has been instructed to proceed without further delay with this valuable cargo..... bound for a far off destination..... many miles from London. David
  13. Well I must say Jim, this is one hell of an almighty project....... and your build skills are something to admire. While following your explanation and studying the photos, I have to keep reminding myself that this is 1:18 scale you are working in. This sort of detail would be typical of a 1:12 build I reckon, and obviously a lot easier in 1:8 scale Pocher type kits. Myself, I like the whole concept of modifying diecast scale model cars, which I have done with a 1:24 scale Franklin Mint Rolls-Royce 1929 Phantom I Cabriolet de Ville, converting the standard car into the 1927 version as owned by Fred Astaire. Currently I am building a ' hybrid ' Rolls-Royce Silver Cloud II from a plastic chassis Revell or Minicraft kit and a diecast Franklin Mint 1955 Silver Cloud, which involves changing the 4.9 litre 6 cylinder engine to the 6.2 litre V8 engine. Keep us up to date with your progress, which I am following closely. David Watson ( England )
  14. Now that's a proper scale model car engine Mark........ there is no finer detail that you could add to that engine, beyond the level you have taken it to. When I first assembled and painted an engine, I applied a ' dot ' of liquid chrome, and in my mind it was a bolt head or a nut...... but what you do is to use an actual bolt head or a nut, and not just a ' dot '...... Maybe I need to re-think my crude approach to some aspects of my scale model car building ! David
  15. That Robert E Lee kit of yours is indeed a nice one, and I particularly like the staircase rising up from those decks with which you have done a fine job. Some clever stuff going on there with the on/off switch and the lights in the windows are just right. The only paints that I haven't tried are the Vallejo colours, and I do have a local stockist of Vallejo now so there's no reason not to give them a try. Your colour mix is rich and interesting. Weathering and ageing is certainly an acquired skill that not everyone can get right without a great deal of effort. If it's anything like portrait painting, which I used to do when I was younger, sometimes you can ' accidently ' hit on the right formula after many hours of struggling to achieve a realistic likeness. From what you have said, and shown in these recent photos, you have made good progress with this project and it will be exciting as it evolves along the way. David
  16. I kind of thought in my own mind that Michael Paul Smith would be around for many years to come....... so it is with great sadness that I hear of his passing, only eight days ago. The world has lost an extremely talented man, and not just the scale model world but the wider community worldwide. His work will be viewed and studied for many years I'm sure and we can all learn something about the whole concept of Elgin Park........ This sad news has made me realise that I must continue, in my own small way, to try and create something that more than likely will never get anywhere near the monumental achievement that Michael has left behind for us to enjoy...... you have set the bar very high Mr Smith........ R.I.P. David
  17. Not sure if masking tape would have warmed these LED's that I was using at the beginning of the project...... only joking, as they were quite powerful aquarium lamps, and one lamp on each floor! David
  18. JC..... from the first of your two photos I can see how this is going to work, and of course camera angle, camera height and lighting are critical here. When taking photographs within my diorama I set up the camera on three wooden blocks, which corresponds to a height of 3 inches and this gives eye level view as seen by a 3" tall 1:24 scale figure. Also, I previously tried using LED lighting, but this produced a strong blueish hue in the resulting photos. Now I have dolls house lighting which is much nicer, and produces a soft warm glow somewhat like vintage lighting. The LED's produce no heat, whereas the dolls house lighting bulbs do get warm inside a scale model building. Your second photo does show clearly how you need to arrange your models to achieve the desired effect. I am sure this can be done, and you obviously know what you're doing. Following your thinking, I might try out some ideas with different scale models in my settings. For example, I have a 1:16 scale Daimler-Benz carriage that is too large for the 1:24 diorama, but using your concept maybe I can have the carriage at some point in the background and make it work visually. David
  19. Thank you jc....... and work continues on the Hooper & Co diorama, which is now approaching 2 years in the making. David
  20. Thanks for the comment, David Mitchell...... nice to see you back here. David
  21. Well spotted Gary..... there are two bicycles in this diorama now, the most recent being the gent's Fujimi bicycle from the garage tools set, and the other one is a 3D printed lady's bicycle from Shapeways. David
  22. Thanks for the comment Gary, and let's hope the next load for this truck is way more secure! David
  23. Dax..... That is a very nice looking kit of the '47 Chevy, and I had a look on Ebay to find there is only one listed, which is an Aerosedan. Seems to have wooden panels on the doors and the kit is priced at £31.01, which is around US $. 39.76 and quite rare now. Here is the link for you.... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GALAXIE-13012-1947-CHEVY-FLEETMASTER-AEROSEDAN-1-25-Model-Car-Mountain-FS/142941461718?epid=7023859159&hash=item2147f99cd6:g:MUAAAOSwFpVbUNeb:rk:26:pf:0 David
  24. Here is the 1953 Bedford OLBD dropside lorry, which is now completed, and I have scratch built a green tarpaulin, a wooden pallet and some ropes to go with the vehicle. These photos show only the initial stages of setting up the idea to see if it works, so the roping and sheeting is not correct yet, and the really interesting photography will come along later when the Bedford gets to the diorama setting. PC Dixon is having a quiet word with the Mr Watson, the lorry driver about his dubious roping and sheeting, and the Police constable is not happy with the insecure load. Furthermore, he is equally concerned about the kettle and the bricks, not to mention the ladder. The tarpaulin is green garden refuse sack material in PVC, with Sap Green acrylic paint applied with a dry toothbrush. The pallet is constructed from balsa wood and the ropes are 1:24 scale rigging for model ships. The rope size is correct at 0.5 mm to represent 1/24th of 12 mm rope in full size. David
  25. Every little piece comes from some donor object..... and there's a chuck ! What an eye you have for reusing materials and objects that might otherwise go to waste. David
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