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Anglia105E

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Everything posted by Anglia105E

  1. Turning my attention to the windscreen / windshield of this model, I measured precisely the dimensions of the part required. This came out at 50 mm for the top edge, 53 mm for the lower edge and 16 mm for each of the side edges . . . This positions the part on the outside of the windscreen frame, with around one millimetre of overlap. The part was cut out from a sheet of thin clear film and offered up as a test fit to the windscreen frame on the outside of the body . . . Now I need to think about how to mount this thin clear film screen onto the body . . . I am toying with the idea of reducing the dimensions of the screen part very slightly, and then attempting to mount the screen just inside the frame, from the outside, exactly how this would be done on the real car. There would of course be a rubber seal surrounding the glass on the real car . . . David
  2. Having completed the Phantom III during 7 months of last year, and the Bungalow during 7 months of this year, I am now working on my second build for this year, so you are winning at four completed !!! Life is not a race . . . David W.
  3. Nicely done Oldsmobile stock car David G., . . . Another one completed ! David W.
  4. Thanks Jose . . . You did a great job with your incomplete glue bomb back then, and you didn't have much to start from . . . The display in the previous photo was my tables at the 2018 Rolls-Royce Enthusiasts Club Annual Rally, held at Burghley House in Stamford, England . . . David
  5. When you explain it like that Jose, I can understand why this is not a super detailed kit. The Hubley promo in blue plastic came first, around 1960, and was distributed to motor car dealers to begin with. Then came the Hubley version of the kit, some in blue plastic and later in grey plastic. Eventually, the kit was produced in black plastic by Revell and Minicraft . . . As a toy in the early'60's this was a very accurate representation of a Rolls-Royce motor car. You can see the Hubley promo on display, just right of centre in this photo, and it compares well to my built models from kits . . . David
  6. Today the body was lowered onto the chassis and I examined the area around the spare wheel and boot lid . . . The rear bumper has been inserted into the slots between body and chassis as a test fit only. I have a thin card template for the boot carpet, used to build previous Silver Cloud models, so this was placed inside the luggage compartment for a simple visual inspection. The boot carpet will be grey, and the interior upholstery will also be grey ( not blue as on the test model ). The parts to be assembled at the rear of the car include the reversing / number plate lamp, the number plate plinth and the two rear lamp clusters. These chrome rear lamps have been given a thin coating of amber and red, using a Sharpie. David
  7. Thank you kindly Sir . . . I cannot quite understand why they didn't include perhaps 52 parts in the kit, rather than only 26 parts . . . I mean, this is a scale model of probably the finest motor car in the World, ever ? Even more surprising is that no other kit manufacturer produced a kit of this car. Hubley were the first company to make this available, and subsequently the tooling was passed down to Minicraft, Academy, Revell and Masterkit . . . I have found a Revell version of the Silver Cloud kit listed on Ebay, and the auction ends this coming Sunday afternoon. There are zero bidders, the starting price is only £16.13 ( US $. 21.64 ), postage is just over two GBP, and this kit is complete, with only two parts painted (rear seat ). I might bid on this one . . . David W.
  8. After checking that the boot / trunk lid can be raised to the fully open position, the spare wheel and tyre was mounted onto the chassis floor. The rear bumper fits between the body and the chassis at a later stage . . . Then I have measured, drawn and cut out the panel that fits immediately behind the spare wheel. One of the photos below shows this panel mounted in white on a previous build, which is 225 ALG. The panel has been given a coat of black permanent marker, to give it the black colour. The same permanent marker was applied to the lower edge of the rear body, after this was sanded down to remove a rough imperfection. The spare wheel panel was fabricated from thin white card . . . David
  9. All of the previous eight Sliver Cloud builds have had the ' cocktail stick ' boot lid hinge pin modification fitted, so there is no part included in any of the kits to achieve this . . . My first use of a cotton bud stalk has provided a much better hinge pin action, as it is a tighter fit. Not yet sure what to do about those nasty boot lid dimples . . . Something like melted black plastic could have been an option in the past, but that process would give off unpleasant fumes, even in a very small quantity . . . David W.
  10. I think the gold and the turquoise has worked quite well David . . . You are almost there, so the end is in sight . . . Soldier on . . . David W.
  11. Thanks for the amusing recipe Steve . . . You have a way with words ! . . . Something did occur to me last night, the filler is white in colour, so even when it has dried and I sand the surface smooth, I cannot polish the black plastic of the trunk lid. One idea would be to mix Vallejo Gloss Black acrylic with the filler before applying the mix to the dimples, but not sure if that method would work . . . Every single one of these boot / trunk lid parts in these Silver Cloud kits has the two dimples in exactly the same place . . . David
  12. During this afternoon, I fitted the Entex boot lid to the Entex body shell, which seems to be a nice close fit. However, there are two dimples immediately above the two boot lid hinges that are underneath . . . Although I am reluctant to use Mr White Putty R filler, this may the only way to deal those unsightly dimples. For the first time I decided to use a short length of cotton bud stalk for the boot lid hinge mechanism, rather than the usual cocktail stick. All of my previous Silver Cloud builds have a short length of cocktail stick wedged between the struts inside the body shell. The two hooks of the boot lid hinges fit tightly over the makeshift hinge bar . . . The cotton bud stalk has a slightly larger diameter than the cocktail stick, and this actually works much better I have realised. No glue of any kind is required for the boot lid mounting. The Entex chassis, along with the chrome plastic axles, road wheels and tyres have been mated up with the body, and also the rear bumper. All of these parts are simply test fitted at this stage . . . The axles are very loose within their mounting holes, and the wheels are also loose on the axles, so this needs to be addressed later. I have emailed the RROC in North America, asking them for a chassis number for the OVD 777 car, if they have the car listed on their database. The RREC in England do not have any records for the car on their database. I have attached a selection of photos to the email message for the RROC, one of which shows both the UK registration number plate, as well as the Texas license plate also . . . David
  13. That particular kit that you had to work with is probably one of the worst examples of this defect that I have seen . The area of the bodywork at the join between fender, door and windshield must have been difficult to cast from the tooling that was available to companies such as Minicraft, Revell, Academy, Entex, Masterkit and Hubley, as the moulds were well past their sell by date . . . Now that I am not able to use filler and sanding techniques, I feel so lucky to have picked up a kit that does not require this type of work in that area. David W.
  14. Many thanks for your comment Jose . . . The work proceeds at a steady pace ! David
  15. The first photo in the following series of photos shows a mockup of the car on wheels, but this is the test model, so not the actual build model. You can see how well the Silver Cloud presents itself in terms of proportions and stance . . . This afternoon I have polished the driver's side of the body, including front and rear wings and front and rear doors. The resulting shine continues to impress me, and by the time the window glass and BMF have been added later this model car should have a realistic appearance . . . Having contacted the RREC, Rolls-Royce Enthusiast's Club, as an ex-member they have informed me that the real car in New York, USA does not appear on their extensive database. They have no data for the UK registration plate OVD 777, but the lady at the RREC is going to forward my enquiry to the Silver Cloud registrar. Maybe I should contact the RROC, which is the Rolls-Royce Owner's Club of North America, located in Mechanics burg, PA, to see if they have any record of this Silver Cloud that is for sale in New York . . . David
  16. Good idea to copy those photos for your own reference. When I was around the age of 17 - 20, I used to visit various different scrapyards with my Dad, usually on Sundays I seem to remember . . . We would rummage among the piled up scrap cars and unbolt any useful parts for my Ford Anglia 105E, and also my Dad's Ford Cortina MK 1 . . . Once you had gathered your parts together, you would take them to a sort of ramshackle broken down hut or shed, where a man would ask for a few pounds for the whole lot. Very cheap, and the parts would keep both of our cars running nicely . . . Those were the days eh David ? The correct sized mascots were resin cast for me by a model building friend who sadly passed away recently, and I only have two of them remaining. The Franklin Mint Rolls-Royce Silver Cloud I does have the correct sized radiator grille mascot in metal at 1:24 scale, but every single car that I purchased on Ebay had the mascot missing . . . I can only assume that the sellers would remove the part before offering the model car for sale. David W.
  17. Today I set about polishing the roof panel area of the Entex body . . . Using the proven method ( Eco-Friendly ) baking soda toothpaste, distilled malt vinegar, and micro fibre cloth, the resulting mirror finish of the black plastic was most satisfying. One of the following photos shows a clear reflection of myself holding the camera as I photograph the roof of the model car . . . The oversized Spirit of Ecstasy radiator grill mascot was removed, and this had only been pushed in, so not glued. One photo below shows the difference in size between the Minicraft mascot in the centre of the three mascots, and the two correctly sized 1:24 scale mascots . . . I made a point of examining the area of the body where the wings meet the doors at the lower corner of the windshield, and I can confirm that there is no work required in these two areas. The casting is surprisingly good, compared to some examples that I have seen, both in my collection and in online images . . . David
  18. Oh I see . . . We do have charity shops, which is where people bring stuff in for free that they no longer want and the charity shops sell the items quite cheaply. Similar idea to Goodwill maybe . . . David
  19. I hadn't heard of Goodwill here in UK, but then if they don't ship outside the US that is not al that surprising . . . thanks. David
  20. I do agree with your view Jose, and it is true that there are more dealers on Ebay now than private sellers . . . You can sometimes find genuine bargains, but it is becoming more difficult. David
  21. This will be a very interesting project Pico . . . The resin body kits from Air Trax in Finland are excellent, and worth the extra money to get them I think . . . David
  22. I shall have a second look at the transition between the wings and doors, but at first glance I did not see any work to do in that area. I do remember how this area of the bodywork gave you a lot of pain . . . I haven't purchased or built a Hubley kit, although I would like to at some stage. The Hubley promo that I have is a nice model actually, with very clean lines and I like the blue plastic too. The promo was ready built, and is dated 1959 or 1960 . . . Many of the Minicraft kits are later versions, but still using the old tooling. Curiously, this Entex kit has the chromed parts that you would find inside a Minicraft kit, and yet the tyres are the rubber type as you would find inside the Revell kit . . . The axles are plastic in this Entex kit, but some kits do contain the metal axles, which I prefer. I may cut some lengths of brass rod for my axles, but that will present the problem of using glue to mount the styrene wheels onto the metal axles. What did you think of the OVD 777 car at the New York dealer's for sale website? Very sad to see any Rolls-Royce in such a neglected state, but someone will restore that once fine motor car. I just hope they do it sympathetically . . . In the past I would have been able to source the original chassis number for that UK registration plate, but now I cannot as no longer an RREC member. They will not divulge such information from their wonderful database if you are not a fully paid up member of the RREC . . . I seem to remember the membership was around £90.00 GBP per year ( US $. 122.00 ) David W.
  23. Nice to hear from you Steve . . . I was trying to come up with a name for my ' new ' approach to model car building, and I was thinking along the lines of something like Eco-Friendly model building, but your suggestion has a pleasant ring to it , ' Ecology Based Model Building ' . . . Yes, I like that . . . Certainly, I feel like I am some sort of pioneer for non / low toxic modelling, so I need to publish the results of my experiments, both successful and unsuccessful. This has probably all been done before, as I am sure that model builders who have been far more professional than myself must have tried such ideas . . . Two or three years ago, I could browse Ebay any day of the week, and there would be various Minicraft and Revell kits of the Silver Cloud listed at sensible prices. Also, there would be Entex versions of the kit, as well as Masterkit and Hubley, but these days there are none at all really. I am aware of three Hubley kits being listed in France, which have been on Ebay for around three years now. During all that time the sellers have not reduced their high prices, and they have not added ' Make Offer ' to their ' Buy it Now ' option . . . The Hubley kits are nicely presented in their sealed boxes and pristine condition, but they are moulded in grey plastic and the shipping costs are stupidly high, considering France is not that far away from UK . . . I am wanting black plastic for the body parts, so that I can polish rather than paint, so the grey plastic is not an option for me right now. Thanks again Steve for taking an interest in my current topic, and hopefully this Rolls-Royce Silver Cloud model will turn out well in the end . . . David
  24. The Entex version of the 1:24 scale Rolls-Royce Silver Cloud II kit was delivered early this morning, having taken five days by transport from the Netherlands to England . . . As always, I carefully set about the unboxing and photographed every stage of the process. This kit is complete, apart from two items that were missing, the steering wheel and the instruction sheet. It would have been nice to have an instruction sheet, even though I don't need to refer to it. I do have the instruction sheets for the Minicraft and Revell versions of this kit . . . The kit box was not sealed, and a previous owner had glued the oversized Spirit of Ecstasy to the top of the radiator grille, as well as the front bumper that was glued to the front lower edge of the body. The V8 engine was clipped in place, but not glued, and all the other parts were loose in the box, no sprues. The window glass parts were still inside a sealed clear plastic bag . . . Generally I am happy with my purchase, both in terms of price and condition. Now that I have all the parts spread out before me on the table, I can decide which of those parts to use for this build. The roof panel of the Entex body shell is completely free of scratches, so this one has a better surface than the test model that I have been working on recently. To my surprise, and David G. will find this interesting, the areas of the front wings / fenders immediately in front of the windscreen lower corners, are not the usual mess that you find with these Silver Cloud kits . . . It will not be be necessary to use filler and sanding to correct this problem, which is good. David
  25. You were indeed the Forum member that I was referring to David G. . . . That Ford GT of yours looks really good, and the pale blue colour of the plastic bodywork is way better than any painting could achieve in my view . . . We refer this to iconic car as the Ford GT40 here in England, but I think over in the US you guys are more likely to call the car a Ford GT, would that be correct, or are they two different cars? The only Entex kit of the Silver Cloud in 1:24 scale available on the planet arrived at my door by Royal Mail this morning . . . The Ebay seller was a lady in Holland, and she appears to be a registered charity ( Amnesty International ) which explains why she was very likely not aware of this kit's rare value. Apart from the steering wheel and the instruction sheet being missing from the box, the kit is complete and in good condition. Most important of all, as far as I am concerned, there are 5 wheels and 4 tyres in the box, which I don't have . . . I do have 3 tyres, but no wheels. The Minicraft tyres are very plastic like, whereas the Revell and Entex tyres are rubber material . . . much nicer. David W.
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