bluenote

Maybe it's just me, but unless it's a convertible, I find it's very hard to see the flocking/embossing powder on the finished interior, especially on a black interior. I just recently used Ken's fuzzy fur on a 1970 challenger (black interior). I can barely see it, let alone see if the scale is correct, etc. I think I could have simply painted instead, and it would barely make a difference. I would imagine a light colour interior would be easier to see, but I haven't done a light interior yet.

Thanks everyone, I will do this

Hi everyone, I'm building a 1970 Challenger Revell kit, and just finished the baremetal foil around the window frames. The excess foil is on the interior, how do you hide this? do you paint over it with the interior paint colour? Do you just trim the foil as much as possible so that it's not visible on the inside? If you look in the interior, you can see the silver foil. Any suggestions? Thanks!

Aw damn, that's really sad news. I really enjoyed his videos. Rip

I couldn't agree more. I know lots of people use 2k clear, but I would never use stuff like that for models. Good ol' Tamiya TS-13 clear is all I need. I'm not even crazy about using Scalefinishes (automotive grade paint) sometimes, but alas, sometimes they only have the colour I'm needing. If Tamiya had most of the Mopar colours, I'd only be using Tamiya.

I think Tamiya TS-10 French Blue or TS-23 Light Blue would be a good match

great info here! I almost always use rattle cans. The one problem I have, is the paint seems to not cover on high edges and/or door panels, etc. I think I need to do more mist coats first, then the heavier wet coat. I think I go on too heavy to start

Myself, I just use Tamiya rattle cans. I know exactly what to expect, they are perfect every time. Quick and easy. They are pricey, but I only build a few kits per year. I use scalefinishes for cars that I need a unique colour for.

I don't think it'd be a problem

I don't think you'd want to apply pearl clear after the decals, then it would show pearl on the decals which I think would not look right. I would suggest applying decals on the pearl white, then decals, then normal clear to seal everything in.

thanks for the advice guys! I think I'll try to sand and blend. the idea of starting over, and buying new decals, etc. doesn't seem worth it. (the body turned out pretty good, besides these couple of blemishes!)

Hey everyone, I am building the Revell 1970 TA Challenger. I have painted the body with Tamiya rattlecan primer (2 coats), and then 2 coats of Tamiya TS98 pure orange. I think sanded/polished using tamiya compounds and then applied decals. I then applied 3 coats of Tamiya TS-13 clear (1 light coat, 2 heavy). However, it looks like I went a bit too heavy on the driver's door. I have a few runs. (sorry, no pics). Should I wetsand and reapply clear just on that area? As well, I noticed during my sanding on the colour coat, that I burned through some of the edges, specifically the edge on the middle of the trunk. Any way to save this, now that it's been sealed with clear? I was thinking to tape off all around it, and give it a very gentle light spray of the orange rattlecan. I sometimes find when I try to correct a problem, that I sometimes make it worse! thanks for any advice.

I wonder if a good option would be to buy tamiya metallic blue in the bottle (x-13), and lighten it or darken it as needed.

This is very informative. I may try the PS paints on a car model, for no other reason than they do have a couple of paints in that line that are not offered in the TS line (specifically, metallic purple, copper, fluorescent pink which is very close to panther pink, cherry red, etc) The metallic purple is one that I definately want to try on a cuda, and I think the metallic flake will be more in scale than the Testors purplicious (yes, I know about scalefinishes, etc but I'm done with airbrushing, much prefer rattlecans now!)

that purplicious looks great! I thought the testors extreme lacquers have very large flake, but that picture looks pretty decent. I heard a flat clear will tone down the flake, is that the case with this one?