Flat32

I had originally thought to feed PLA plastic into mine, scraps from 3D printing, but I really want metal parts so I'm thinking of feeding it low temp metal instead. Plan is/was to make plaster molds using silicone master. Plastic injection requires relatively high pressure primarily because it has a relatively high viscosity in it's molten state. Low temp metal alloys have a relatively LOW VISCOSITY in their molten state which translates into less pressure needed to fill a mold. Now RTV silicones have various durometer hardness and temperature resistance so they can be used for mold cavities. In effect metal die casting without the high temperature furnaces or kilns investment casting needs. Why make a resin or plastic scale copy of a metal part and then paint it to look like metal when making a metal scale part can be easily made? Don't even need a machine to do it.

Danbury '32 roadster on right, molded plastic. Danbury '32 3 window coupe on left, real wire spokes.

I know they do. Just not what I need to fit my rims. I suppose you could say I want a real tire at 1:25. I see no reason why we can't have Danbury Mint quality level spoked wheels on the beautifully hand crafted models I see on the forums.

I have an older, smaller version of one. Formlabs has a download white paper on 3D printing molds that get used in the hand operated injection machine.

Ford Flathead rods are quite thin and are too weak when printed in plastic or resin even at 1:4 scale so need to make them in metal to make moving parts. Cams as well. The rods also have integral studs, no bolts so not possible to thread them for installing caps. 1/4 scale running engine version that I'd like to see built will need forged rods. I had a 1/4 crankshaft printed in Shapeways stainless steel and it's strong enough to work in a running engine.

Thanks for pointing that out. I'm still looking for a video or documentary on how it was done before computers. There is a lot shown that can be done at home. Was watching the spincasting in the first videos and noticed the rubber tires being made in the second set used the same vulcanizing press. I have a complete spincasting setup including the vulcanizer press and while I bought it to make Flathead Ford connecting rods I now see where I could make real rubber tires if I had a mind to.

Found some Youtube vids that show how molds are made for models the new way. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gqyK6u5ZTmA https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BpH3mGRkTjw https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fwd_CCPxNv0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xLl8WjqDNFs

Found my speech to text software. It's a free Chrome app and very very good. Hunt and pecked this reply though. It's called SpeechTexter. Learned that model molds used to be "sunk" using 3D pantograph engraving machines. I had one in Taiwan and bought a used one here a couple years ago. A large size model is created in any material and then a negative pattern gets cast in a plaster or resin hard material. The large "pattern" gets refined if need be by hand or power tools. A stylus is run over the entire pattern surface by the moldmaker by hand in a few steps as the cavity is first rough cut and finishes with a final step that can be so refined as to not even need polishing in some cases or minimal polishing. I don't know yet what scale the patterns were however the machines are adjustable. It is my understanding that the engraving was done by a one man/one machine approach. Polishing usually went to a polishing bench where polishing experts who did nothing else did final surface finishing.

Put my nickel in the slot, no gumball yet at trakinscale. I like it here so far. I've been lurking at the H.A.M.B. site for a few years. My engine is traditiona, but what I've done to it is less so.

I suppose the model world parallels the 1:1 world in the variety of characters and personalities as well as their build habits. Some may think if you don't have a finished model you ain't got squat, but I tend to believe the pleasures and satisfaction that comes with achieving successes in the many individual steps is where real rewards are. Best part is it can be an orgasm a day along the way. It's like the way some have described life, "Enjoy the journey, but avoid the end as long as possible." I'd guess we all enjoy a challenge, I do, but I only allow myself to be the challenger. I'd guess as well we all like to impress, but again, I mostly try to impress myself. I have a plan. Might be a considered a little devious by some. I wonder how many of you guys are using voice typing. I've been using two fingers and hate it. searching for best software.

Polytek urethane looks worth investigating too.

For many years my company has been producing 1:1 snowplow light housings that we make with black TPR (thermoplastic rubber). It is an injection material, not vulcanized with exactly the look and feel of rubber. I suspect it could work quite well for car model kit makers. Look at Gillette disposable razor handles for an example of what I believe is TPR. I'm investigating making my own tires by casting and I'm certain soft black RTV material or polyurethane is available from Alumilite or Smooth-on. There are also 3D printable soft and flexible materials, but I don't think good enough for tread and sidewall markings details.

Bill, I looked at your builds, especially your techniques,with intense interest. Can't overlook your in depth research, attention to detail and real passion for the era. Equally in awe of your ability to describe what you're doing in words and photos. Did these builds get cut short in the archives?? They seem to end abruptly.

I'm new to this forum and it's a great place with many dedicated and highly skilled modelers. I find it a bit curious that there's not more representation of old traditional hot rods. I was hoping to find a category specific to them. Also, I haven't found any references to the moldmakers that do the tooling for these fantastic kits. I spent quite a few years tooling up and manufacturing auto related parts involving stamping, injection molding and die-casting. Even tires and tubes for bicycles and lawn and garden equipment. Lived in Taiwan for twenty years doing this. When I look at a "tree" my mind goes immediately to wondering how the molds were made and how they are now being made. I've been a toolmaker by trade and made a few relatively simple molds. I always felt like the product got all the glory and the tooling ignored. Even the engineers whose products I had tooled didn't understand how tooling got made. Now I'm beginning to build a model instead of just making parts. I admire the scratch builders and the fine detail guys whose skills I only wish I had. I can make a raw part, but use machines to do it. CAD, 3d printing, plaster and silicone molds and CNC mill work I learned after retirement. I will pursue photo etching at some point, but after getting off the ground with my investment casting and spincasting learning projects. I may never get a complete model built.

Truly a Masterpiece. Have to wonder many things about the builder.

Many of my parts aren't "kit" available so I have to make them. It starts with computer models and this is some of what I have. Printed most of it in various scale with PLA filament. SLA resin and poly-jet resin on a more or less experimental basis.

I'm quite a bit beyond starting excepting for the detailing and photo aspects of the hobby. Ordered an Olfa mat, got a tabletop tripod and a camera with wifi to trigger remotely. Got an airbrush kit and a set of paints. Got a couple Molotow pens. It's like setting up a factory with finishing and final assembly departments under construction. R&D and some printing currently in laundry room. This computer is on the washing machine, post processing stereo microscope on the dryer. Big printer is in the garage along with all of my metal working stuff. I'm in good shape financially, decent health for my age and only real problems are with life, wife, and space.

Hi, I'm new to this forum and have been looking it over for a few days. Wanting to start a build and looking for the correct place to hang out. I'm not an experienced builder and it seems like I should begin by getting one of the neat green mats that show in many of the builder's photos and learn how to set up my camera first. I'm 74 years old so my interests are very much dated. Besides that there are only two subject models I want to build, 1932 Ford 3 window fendered coupe, I have a 1/1 of that, and the one in the photo. Until I can come up with a 1/8 3W body, I have a Big Deuce in the box, I will focus on The Bug. Apparently 1/25 scale is the most popular so I'll try that. I cheat by using 3D printing. Did my scratch building on 1/1 parts and printing model parts took the shine off machining for me. I'm amazed by the jaw dropping scratch work I see here and the fine detail work with obvious passion driving it. Everyone seems to be extremely helpful and willing to answer any question. So is it better to post on the Bench or should I go to the Drag section?? Ray

Took a quick pic, I'm no photographer, of the 1/25 scale parts. Some are not tweaked yet to eliminate flaws.

Haven't taken any recent ones yet, but some larger scale stuff is in my photobucket albums. http://s646.photobucket.com/user/Flat32/library/

Hi, I'm not an experienced model builder, but I make parts for a model representation of my Flathead Ford 1/1 engine using 3D printers. I've been experimenting with scales to see where details fade. I managed to print an engine block 1/25 and maintain 95% of the detail, surface finish decent. Block is per Ford blueprints as closely as i could manage including the water jackets. Someday hope to build a simple diorama of a workbench while a Flathead engine is being built. Been looking in the diorama section and fascinated by the skills represented there. I'm too old to achieve anywhere near the levels I'm seeing, but wouldn't mind providing parts to those who can. Ray