Flat32

Did functional tie rod ends ever get made for this??

Where would I look for any version of those hollow tires whether vintage or new production???

My first carb paint job. Too dark.

Ran a trial of the dozen Strombergs in red resin because I found out the gray has different characteristics that are not as good for fine detail. Result is seven good and five failed to print entire base, Interesting that the bad ones were in the center of the build plate. Anyway they are better in that I can see the screw slots, idle screws are there and I can make out the 97 marking on the side.

Well then, I'll buy a set of nozzles and check them out. I'll probably dissect them to see what detail controls the spray pattern in them, after trying them on other cans. Appreciate the comments made on airbrushing and inks. I am hoping to find a way to primer small parts without setting up an airbrush. Just want a small pattern out of a can.

Anybody have experience with these?? Liquitex acrylic spray paint nozzle assortment Would like to know if they can work on other than Liquitex paint cans, hopefully primers.

My mistake. The front end is there. What I thought was front is actually the rear and you cut the flywheel off at the rear main. So focused on the carb and clutch I didn't even look at the other end of the crank.

You did that carb justice. I'm amazed at what you can do with some 3D printed parts. Did you do any surface sanding at all??

The end opposite the flywheel. Included the timing gear and the two crank pulleys.

What happened to the crankshaft snout??

Now that's help. Thanks. I'm aware of the colors and look. I'd like them to appear used but relatively clean like a hot rodder with pride would have them. Bases near black with a decent gasket line separation from the zinc body. I'm guessing highlighting the linkage, screws, and nuts will be easy. Going to print this batch in gray. They won't look as good as this digital rendition by far.

You know that bell shaped roof armature could very easily be cut from a styrofoam block rotated on a turntable or even on a nail using a hand held hot wire cutter clamped to a support. Rudimentary lathe, change wire position as needed. Narrower strips of smaller shingles (like in the reference photo) would conform easier and the slit masking tape need only be just a bit wider than the exposed shingles, I assume those shingles are tape.

Glad you like it, but where's the help?? I'm thinking if I can print in black resin I might be able to dry brush the body and linkage leaving the natural black at the base. No experience with dry brushing though. Don't know if dry brushing will "take" on the resin nor do I know how to "fix" the result. I'm certainly not of a mind to primer it unless there's a simple dip method.

Sorry, not working yet with link I posted. Working on edit.

This is what I did with Ace-Garageguy's search method to make it quicker for me to use. It's simply a link I put in my Google search tabs. Modelcarsmag search One click and simply type a space and the search item or topic.

Struggling along trying to figure out how to break into actually detailing parts. Have to do this before attempting actual build. I consider the carbs to be the most difficult and if I can manage to do them the rest should be easier. Need help or suggestions.

Small streams like yours vary the most during the seasonal wet and dry periods. Had two where I grew up and the smaller dried up completely half the time in mid summer while the larger became a much smaller flow down the middle. Flow surface doesn't look like a raging torrent during drier periods in a stream with a gentle slope like yours appears to be. Water level can be quite low and tranquil while being easier to model in a realistic fashion. Lay a piece of Saran wrap in the stream bed if you want to keep the model dry during real water testing. An example from a small woodland stream google search'''

Look for a better scale representation of a block wall while you can IMHO.

Could maybe use a slight hint of tire tracks in the gravel. Otherwise your "Bridge over dried up stream bed" looks perfect. If you put a car consider a Model T Ford in the choices.

Interesting, top mold set looks like the cavity sides of each insert set were copper plated or made from a copper alloy. They probably have been electroformed instead of machine carved. Any other toomakers on this forum??

Why isn't Ace-Garageguy's search info pinned in every forum section??

Pat has good photography skills and a raw photogrammetry file can be edited. It certainly is worth a try. No cost involved. If he came up with a good series of photos I'd be happy to load them into Meshroom and try 3D printing them. Result just might be something that could be cleaned up to make a silicone mold master from.

Science channel just ran a short episode on how plastic model kits are made. Heller is the manufacturer featured.

Noticed first pics have reasonable headlight lenses, but later seems to have them painted over. The headlight bezels were stainless steel so wouldn't have rusted at all. Leaves and debris on the hood looks really good, but seems like running boards would have some as well. Grass looks fantastic. Would you consider some weeds in it? Easy to say, but haven't the foggiest notion how weeds could be done. Chevrolet emblem was chrome plated die cast zinc and the chrome usually survived pretty good. If the emblem lost it's original chrome over the years it might look gray, but certainly not rust color.

If you view the hobby as building a beautiful detailed scale model from a relatively inexpensive styrene kit it is "perhaps" not so good to see expensive taking over. I love 3D printing, but I can afford it.