bobcrozier

That should be an awesome collection! Check out completed pics in the under glass section Bob

Duh! I didn't think of that! That would have made more sense. Bob

Bob

Bob

Finally finished her up Turned up the headlights on the lathe. Left a little pip in the middle for the bulb which I picked out in clear yellow. Headlight glass was punched out from 15 thou clear, with a hatch pattern scratched in. Glued em in with a little clear enamel. BMF'd front and rear bumpers, Painted and installed chute with a few shroud lines and release chord. Installed rear lenses and lights, Glass work (inscribed a line seperating the door window fom the the rear section). internal tinwork painted Humbrol polished aluminium. Master cylinders,steering wheel, instrument panel,etc finished up Bob

Cheers guys - The springs were made from 22awg tinned copper wire wound around a 2mm drill blank and then given two coats of tamiya clear blue. Done a bit more since - nearly finished - will post completed pics soon Bob

Hi Guys Got just the front steering links, track bar etc to put on, plus the dashboard/steering wheel combo, and while i think about it the parachute cords could do with a mounting point, but I may let that slip my mind! : Front axle mounted up with the shocks attached now - (my god that was fiddly). Check the odd gas pedal location - I can assure you the real car had pedals either side of the transmission hump. George must have had great faith in his scattersheild to sit with his legs akimbo like that!! PE buckles and the seat cut down a little to make it sit right under the roll cage. gear shift scratchmade. At the back - wheelie bars, brake line & the batteries wired. Dashboard ready to go in - home made decals and bezels - dual brake cylinders and pedals. Hope you like Bob

Revell's Tony Foti's Police Camaro has a nice blown BBC in it: Its got the Milodon rocker covers however, dont know if thats a problem Bob

Great car - great photography too. All just as it should be - right down to the cheater slicks and capped pipes! beautiful model of a beautiful car. Bob

New driver cage replacing the assymetric kit one. Scrapped the suspension and made new shocks and springs. Paint was biggest headache. First time round - all paint done, gave it a clear coat, instant bubbling! Both paints acrylics, but colour coats - tamiya air brushed, clear coats - Humbrol. Anyways one bath of brake fluid later I started over. I took the opportunity to get the paint a bit more accurate. The original job was a couple of shades too dark. Decals - a mixture of homemade (Chapman Race Cars, MULTIMAVERICK, and the big Mr. gasket), kit supplied & SLIXX. I now need to start putting it all together!! Bob

Seen one or two of these made up and they all look great when done, but as for it being an anywhere near accurate representation of Ohio George's Maverick - forget it! So I set about reworking the Hobby Heaven re-release. Things to go: Massive rear arches - I used the spare fenders from the front and cut them into the rear arches (I used the stretched wheelbase fenders on the car making it the barely-run altered version), , The enormous hood-long scoop now smaller and shorter. B-pillars removed. Radiator grille panelled over (I didn't use the kit part - too thick). Engine pretty much stock, but turned up pullies, magneto, fuel pump e.t.c. and plumbed and wired. The Multimaverick had a dual drive from the water pump for the fuel pump and magneto, so they were scratch-made too. Chassis extensively reworked. Kit chassis one of the more accurate parts of the car, but looks more like one of George's earlier Mustangs, particularly that bizzare bent front axle. OLD AXLE NEW ONE!! BOB

I use mainly brake fluid to strip and it usually works well with most paints. The only thing that seems to hold it back is Humbrol clear coat (acrylic), but yeah if I rub the clear coat down a bit it seems to grab it and then the paint underneath goes quick. Bob

Anyone know which issue that was? I'd sure like to track that article down. Bob

There's probably quite a few ways of doing this, but I made myself a magnetic jig consisting of a 10" x 8" magnetic sheet (sort of a vinyl-like) glued down to a similar sized piece of 5/8" plyboard plus several small blocks of metal which were offcuts from a 1" x 1" bar of mild steel.I think Micromark make a similar unit (or used to!) Then I draw the chassis out on graph paper full size,and tape it down on to the board. Then taking plastic rod cut it to length on the plan and hold it in place on the drawing with pins (the vinyl sheet was rubbery enough to take a pin) and or adhesive tape. Then every so often tack the rods together with liquid poly like mekpak or similar. Don't forget to "fishmouth" the rods together for a good fit. Make two sides this way. Then a liile superglue applied to each joint with a wooden toothpick re-inforces each joint and provides a realistic "welded" look. at this point manufacture those little gussets, brackets and engine mounts etc. When both sides were complete I attached using double-sided tape each frame to the side of a 3/4" square short length of wood batten so they can be stood up. Then I drew two lines representing the converging frame rails and positioned the two side frames in position relative to each other. Then cut the cross-wide rods to join the two sides together. Glue and reinforce as before. The trickiest part is joining up the rear of the frames. Gentle heat and a gentle touch and bend your rod to represent the curved rails and hoops at the rear. Draw it all out as much as you can to avoid surprises and get a feel for it. Good luck Bob

Looking really good - nicely down in the weeds. Maybe you could leave it in primer - keep it low bucks! Bob

Really love those cars - true racers really. Built entirely for one purpose - to go faster! I have the Challenger on the bench at the moment, well for the last two years actually, and would love to do more. Many years ago I had a scratchbuilt 1/20 scale Brit Thrust 2 on the go, but then moved house and lost the wood buck I had made for the body. One day! Bob

I love the look, dont see enough grass roots racers like these! Got my eye on this one! Bob

Yeah I picked that up last year - weren't that easy to find over here in the UK, but its my SuperStock bible now!! I'll have a look at Model Car World and see if they ship outside the US Cheers Bob

I was looking trying to find any references to Dave Strickler pre-"Old Reliables" i.e. if he raced before 61. But I couldn't find anything. I've done II & IV and definitely need to do I & III. III wasn't as memorable as the others and subsequently there aren,t that many pics of it around. Bob

The climb may be tough and many crumbly footholds may be found along the way, but the view from the summit is worth it my son! Bob

If Castrol made oilfilters they'd probably be the finest oilfilters in the world! Bob

My Bad! You're right of course the '61 was the first! Really must keep on top of my medication! Bob

The engine is from the kit with the clutch/gbox removed, with an injector manifold out of the spares box. I sanded off the rib detail from the rocker covers as the 65 HUG had plain covers. The stacks are actually cable ferrules (also known as bootlace ferrules) used by wiremen to terminate hook up wire (I translated that into american from the english ). Yeah the 65 HUG (at least the rebuilt version) had a pretty stock k member front suspension certainly not the straight or dropped beam axle/transverse springs that the later cars had. I think it may have come from Revell's '78 Firebird via the spares box. The HUG used a V drive commonly used in speed boats. Drive went straight from the transmission into the Vdrive which was set fairly back. The rear diff was then mounted rearward facing pointing up at an angle of about 15-20 deg to connect with the V-drive. That put the clutch/gbox directly above the diff housing!!! I've got a picture that shows it fairly clearly, I'll try and find it and post it up. Unfortunately I came across the the pic after I had finished the model!! and so although my V-drive is OK its the wrong colour and shape!! Oh here it is Bob

Excellent paint - hey how come your brush job comes out looking better than some of my spray jobs!! As for the black block Bill "Grumpy" Jenkins painted all of is 409 blocks black! Said the block ran cooler as a result! Keep us posted! Bob

Love the 62 Bel Air, looks like you nailed that interior colour too! Those decals look just right! Now you need the 60 and 63 cars too Bob