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Dave G.

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Everything posted by Dave G.

  1. Mr Finishing Surfacer 1500. It gets top reviews from just about everyone who tries it and it's specifically made for models, gundam etc. I.E. plastic. It's not as inexpensive as Rusto though. But it's lacquer not enamel. Dries in minutes. That said, my personal choice in black is Stynylrez poly/acrylic black primer, but you airbrush that.
  2. My first thought was this is a kit bash, one body another kits underpinnings. And yes instructions would help prove it out.
  3. Ya, it's been a long time since I've used Micro Sol but when I did use it years ago it was the same as you're describing. By the next day I want it all over with, I don't want to be disturbing them at that point lol .
  4. Createx clear just takes polishing. If you put it down with no orange peel just a couple applications of something like Formula 1 Scratch out will gloss it right up. Even their 4030 will buff up this way. I like their UVLS 4050 clear. UVLS 4053 clear is supposed to have more of a wet look, I'm not a fan of the so called wet look as the era cars I build didn't have that.
  5. That's why I said to check first because to my knowledge this is automotive acrylic enamel . The point is to cut it, I almost said lacquer thinner instead of mineral spirits too . I'm glad you guys corrected what to use.
  6. If you used enamel straight up then next time try cutting it with about 30% mineral spirits for brushing. It should level nicely and lap strokes should blend well. At least so if it's like other enamels.
  7. I've used the MCW lacquer and it sprays fine. I made the mistake of leaving rumble seat underside and door jams for brushing on a 1/16 model A . 3 coats later it still wasn't truly covered well is best I can say. Now that was maybe 3 years ago and I know MCW went through a time where the lacquers were mixed a bit extra thin, so maybe that's what I got.
  8. I find that gloss "as shot" pretty much to be the case with most enamels, even decanted and airbrushed Rustoleum 2X. The key is to mix it and put it on right. However, I will say that if I recall correctly, the MCW enamel is solvent based acrylic automotive enamel ( not to be confused with waterborne enamel acrylics in any way). But it's not the old alkyd enamel either.
  9. It sounds like you had their lacquer which is pre thinned for airbrushing and basically brush paints lousy.. The enamel is not thinned, it should brush paint fine.
  10. I suspect the clear MCW uses for the enamel line is a 1K clear, not truly enamel then if so. I don't think it's 2K but could be. You would have to ask though, don't go just on my word. When I use enamel, regardless what brand, it's generally for an old classic car like 1950s on back into pre teens era.. I don't use clear on those if to use enamel. To me it's pretty much ready to display as shot if done right and all turns out successfully. But these days I'm using more acrylics than I am solvent paints. Base coating with acrylic or lacquer probably would need the clear in my case unless it's a true gloss like Tamiya products. Then I can just buff it up.
  11. This is a video done back when the MCW enamels were first being released. Donn is a respected model car painter, has won many contests with his paint jobs and primarily an enamel user.. Won't do any harm to watch the video. It probably won't embed but just click the link ( wow surprising it did embed).
  12. That's about a dead ringer for the old Model Master Classic Black enamel. You can use the Tamiya, it will be a bit more stark black or Jet black but not way off. You could make a fine rendering with either if done right. I wish they made the model in a 4door like that. My dad had one back in the day, it was gold.
  13. What white paint were you intending to use if you don't mind my asking ? And type of paint ?
  14. Some of the hottest lacquers are automotive acrylic lacquer, which by the way is the same stuff the cherished and highly acclaimed MCW people sell as model paints. Some of the most health concerning enamels around are automotive acrylic enamels with an optional secondary agent that catalyzes it. Which incidentally is the enamel some model specialty paint suppliers sell with optional hardener. Same stuff. So no, acrylic doesn't have to be water borne. At all, in any way.
  15. Ya I had a 65 Buick Skylark V6 with 1bbl carb. It's like having a built in governor, silly concept.
  16. I don't know what "it" was you're referring to but what you're showing is a a good classic and repeatable example of what a reaction of hot lacquer sprayed over fresh enamel often looks like.
  17. The acrylic thinner # is X-20-A. Mix it up to 50/50 but probably 60% clear and 40% thinner will be fine.
  18. Tamiya acrylic clear gloss is X-22. I normally thin it with lacquer thinner but if to use it over enamel I'd get the Tamiya acrylic thinner.
  19. Yep, been there done that. Or even just the X-Acto, a little trim will do ya and it's not even seen or noticed when done.
  20. As long as you don't toss it in the driveway and run it over with your car you're doing fine lol !! I've had moments with things that made me think of doing that, though never have. Plus that interior looks great !
  21. Molotow is what I would use as well. The 1/1 looks more aluminum or stainless than chrome, the Molotow will be a bit brighter, just so you know. I actually have a silver craft paint that would match well, I've used it on trim like that before, brushed on. Molotow is considerably easier to do though.
  22. Shellac based products you thin with denatured alcohol. That's what you cut shellac with in the first place.
  23. If you go the water route just use trace amounts of dish soap, you don't need to see dish soap bubbles frothing up to get a little lube out of the mix.It should work fine but if you have a spare sticker test first. Same as with Jim's product you will want to squeegee out the excess along with any air bubbles in your sticker.
  24. You might want to dig a bit deeper, don't assume.
  25. I agree, plus: Really it was the paint producers and suppliers selling acrylic paints to hobbyists leading that for the most part were water borne, the modelers just picked up the conception acrylic must be mild like latex house paint lol..And nobody from the industry filled in between the lines. Meanwhile, as some of us who shot 1/1 for any amount of time knew acrylic to be generally a pretty hot product, especially acrylic lacquer and long before model paints took the plunge into mild waterborne acrylics.. Acrylic lacquers were quite hot. To which incidentally, MCW supplies hot acrylic lacquer. Their lacquer isn't just lacquer but acrylic lacquer. So it's not just the idea the term acrylic came to be known as mild in the model industry but meanwhile acrylics had already been in hot solvent paints a long time. In fact as waterborne acrylics for models came out, so too was a stab at it for base color coating in 1/1. The term base coat clear coat came out of that. Before then, (what late 1970's ish,) clear coating wasn't a standard at all in refinishing cars or trucks. Clear was around but it wasn't on production cars nor really in refinishing till base coating took hold.
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