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Dave G.

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Everything posted by Dave G.

  1. As to painting white walls on vinyl tires, not all paints stay stuck to that material. I've been having good luck with Stynylrez primer in white though. The down side is it's made for airbrushing and is thin to brush and if brushing it takes 2-3 coats. This increases the risk of screwing it up 2-3 fold lol. I like the sticky vinyl idea, if you know someone with a Cricut machine or the likes of it they could easily cut those for you. A Brother Scan N Cut would be easy as well. I do heat pressed T shirts in inkjet heat transfers or airbrush and heat pressed to set it but don't yet have the Cricut or other machine like it for vinyl or I'd cut them for you. That's a really good idea from Todd. Course you could cut by hand, draw them out with a reliable compass then cut with a razor blade or good sharp hobby knife. An old model technique probably never used any more was to cut white walls from a fairly heavy white paper and contact cement, IE, glue them on. Molotow is great if you keep hands off of it, soon as you touch it that area looks like any silver paint and clear coating it in my experience cuts the chrome look in half. I have a bright craft paint silver that does as good as cleared Molotow and no fuss. But as long as you're careful it looks great. So my answer to clearing Molotow is clear first before the Molotow application. Storing Molotow is another thing all it's own. You have to keep it well sealed up, air free or they dry up or change in appearance, again in my experience.. Many people have polished the plastic to a shiny finish. Personally I'd paint it because then it looks painted as real cars are painted. If to clear I personally would use clear lacquer, others I'm 100% sure would use 2K clear. But you won't find 2K clear existing in my hobby area.
  2. A Procon #3 I don't know the size of. The Paasche H #3 is I believe .66 or .7 which is what I mostly prime with. Also Mike, Stynylrez periodically needs to be power mixed with something like the Badger battery powered mixer, which is what I use. The sediment will never mix fully back into the liquid by shaking or even with a mixing stick. In between power mixing though shaking is sufficient. A guy over in the FSM forums put me onto thinning Stynylrez with lacquer thinner. Always the skeptic I had to test first, the result of which was a beautiful satin finish. I thinned 50-50 in that test with regular hardware store lacquer thinner. I've shot that all the way down to a .25 tip at times. Well anyway, all I can do is share, people can believe or do as they wish with the info. You will like the Mr product though ( well it does stink for a few minutes but works great).
  3. I use a #3 on the Paasche H. I've even used the #5 if I just got done clear coating art work, I just leave the 5 on. There can be other variables too so not sure what your problem with the primer is in reality.
  4. Mr Leveling Thinner is what I use in Mr Primer Surfacer 1000, lays down super smooth.
  5. The Mr Surfacer should be smooth Mike. I use the Mr Primer Surfacer 1000 in a bottle thinned with a little lacquer thinner and that's very smooth . Mr Surfacer 1500 everyone says is smooth. But then for me Stynylrez is smooth if shot one of two ways. With finer needles I cut it ( Styn) nearly 50-50 with hardware store lacquer thinner. With a .7 needle I shoot it straight from the bottle. Either case is 23-25lb ish.
  6. Stynylrez primer will block it as it is an acrylic poly primer/sealer. Sealer being the operative word here. Course as you stated you need an airbrush. FWIW either acrylic or enamel paints will go onto Stynylrez. Hot lacquers will go if you stay with mist coats but too wet and can get sand scratch swelling with hot lacquer. I most recently conducted a test on some left over model parts in white styrene. This was a test for adhesion with Createx paint straight onto plastic with no primer, not for bleed. But it is interesting to note that I took red Createx opaque color and added 15- 20% of their 4050, then about the same of my own thinner which is much like their 4011 thinner and sprayed it on the under side of a hood. Heat set that in my dehydrator then took blue painters tape, de-tacked somewhat on the back of my hand. I rubbed it down onto the hood nice and tight and ripped it off. The tape took no paint with it at all, not even on any high spots or ridges ( Vallejo primer could wish to be so good lol).. So Tom using Createx as primer may be a go indeed. Now On the model ( a 53 Ford pickup) I didn't quite dare to not prime just yet so used white Stynylrez to prime it. Plus I was putting silver Liquitex on under the red anyway.
  7. One of my airbrushes ,Joe is a Paasche VL which is comparable in design to your Badger. It puts down a beautiful well atomized pattern even with the largest tip . I like that feel, it reminds me of the Paasche H in grip style but internal mix. In Dons review of these two airbrushes he claims the 175 to have a smoother transition from very fine misting to laying the paint on heavier. I can understand that because my VL is pretty rapid in that regard, you don't need to move the trigger much extra and you're getting more paint than you really wanted, the 175 is said not to be that way. Your 175 can last you through your entire modeling lifetime. I have an old style Badger 200 still going strong since the early 1970's !!! That's my fine needle airbrush, the .25 tip lives on that one.
  8. I know I'm late to this thread but figured it's ok, just general info. Depending on your paint style or technique you can probably do everything model related with either the fine or medium tip and needle with the Crescendo. The fine tip is .5, the medium should be around a .7ish size and the largest 1 or 1.05 or so. There isn't anything wrong with a Badger Crescendo 175. The same tips interchange with the 105, 155, 175, 200NH ( not to be mistaken for the plain 200). Any of those do as fine a job spraying as any other decent quality brush with the same tip range, assuming you want double action and siphon feed.
  9. I've started with hunter green craft paint but it doesn't end there. I just just keep mixing till I get the machinery green/gray look which should be pretty accurate. By the time it's weathered it looks fine to me. I've also started with malachite green craft paint and done the same with that. Somewhere in my mix will be white and a touch of black to bring in the slight gray tone. But as far as buying the right color off the shelf I couldn't say what to use.
  10. I'd go by the spray pattern, is the paint or even the look of spraying water out, even all the way around ? As to Badger, they're pretty easy to work with. There has been more than one 105 owner on here with some sort of problem that Badger either fixed or swapped out a replacement.
  11. I just painted 1/32 1958 T bird white walls that had no really good demarcation on the sidewall,not for these old eyes anyway. I mounted the assembled wheels on a rudimentary mandrill and spun the tires slowly in a cordless drill. Then just touched the paint brush to the side wall. I'm used to wood turning, it's much easier to control circular designs onto a spinning object if they're just straight up dimensions like white walls. Coarse the tire can't wobble, at least not much.
  12. I discovered one day earlier this week that Home Depot has Quick Shine, several iterations of it from cleaners to finish. Just sayin.
  13. I just use full hot tap water when I heat spray cans. Give it a shake every couple of minutes till the can is just comfortably warm after a shake. It doesn't need to be too hot, remember the pressure builds with heat. The paint thins out too and will atomize much better than a cool can will. Tamiya cans I imagine heat quickly, I'm used to things like Rustoleum, Krylon paints, 3M contact cement, acrylic or lacquer clears too and such.
  14. I've turned over to mostly acrylic at this point. Tamiya's X-22 is a good clear. I do still use clear lacquer at times though. It's all on my own whim at the time really.
  15. I'm wondering if the yellowing on your decal sheets is the paper not the film. Look at the circled items that have white in them, I don't see the yellow there. Least not on my screen. But where the film would be clear between other colors the white areas look yellow. I suspect the paper backing has yellowed.
  16. Came out better than I expected from Atlantis, nice work !!
  17. I varnish 16x20" acrylic paintings in three coats with the Paasche H and #5 needle set. I shoot vertical and immediately horizontal, a quick heat set with hair dryer, repeat and repeat again. At the right distance it puts down a good 3" path of wet paint per pass. Or you could get an airbrush with a fan nozzle. There are a few out there. They do about the same width but in a straighter line pattern, the H has a round pattern. A touch up gun will work but it's going to require more air volume and the tip size will be about the same as the H. Honestly for 1/16 I use nothing special, I've even done two in lacquer with a .25 tip ! 1/8 ( depending on the model) can use a little more coverage but honestly no more than a spray can puts out. I say that as someone who decades ago shot 1/8 with spray cans and they turned out fine.
  18. Look for a video from Barbetos Rex on Mica Powders and or Pigment powders.
  19. Also to me it's not all about the kits but airbrushing, mixing colors,. A big one, conquering acrylics (which I have a really good grasp on now that I've experimented, practiced and used them for 8-10 or so years) . I'm as confident with acrylic now as I am with enamel and that hasn't come without sticking it out, experimenting, making thinners etc. I have more shiny, pretty painted prescription bottles than anyone on the planet and I threw a bunch out at that ! Next I think will be mica powders, there is a certain look you can gain from them that I want to learn those ropes.
  20. You hit it on the head Pierre. Besides the idea that not all models interest me the real thing of what I model does. I have to research color charts from 1932, photos etc for instance. Sometimes the history of that model car, engine colors etc. I only go that far if I know there is a kit out there. Now and then I do a theme car or truck, usually 1950s or older, nothing modern at all. But your point of the research being half the fun is true for me as well.
  21. My shelf space fits 12 with closed doors and no cramming with fudge room to get in 2-3 more but I don't. Instead, If I move one out to completion that leaves an open spot to fill in. I mostly like old classics and not every one interests me I look at folks stashes and about 90% of whats in them I have no interest in. It's really simple lol. Now I completed two since last week so there are two open slots that can be filled, don't think my mind hasn't been at work what will fill the two slots..
  22. 12, ALL old kits. I'm revisiting my childhood builds. Except I've added some 1/16 classic cars.................... And I absolutely won't pay what they want for a good condition Monogram 1/8 Big Deuce kit these days....
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