Dave G.

The Chrome Yellow will be fine for a service truck, especially the two toned ones.

Id use craft paint in a heart beat but then Im used to it, having worked with it airbrushing for years. One note, you need primer. Second note you, need a couple of light initial coats and flash them off fully before getting to the heavier coats. Createx thinner is a good choice, though I make my own knock off of it that works just as well. And the third point: you need to clear coat this stuff. Both for gloss and to seal it. On the other hand Chrome Yellow is very close and a one shot deal in a spray can. I imagine the Tamiya is fine, my experience was with Model Master enamel, no longer made. With MM, spray it you were done.

I make my own green from craft paints. Really though, there are a few that are close enough from the bottle, especially if you add weathering. And unless you're building something off the showroom floor, it's going to be weathered. Not to mention the factory colors even varied some. As far as the red goes, weathered red flatheads were pretty faded. I doubt most hot rodders kept that. Pictures I've seen of hot rod flatheads in red are pretty much fire engine red. Testors bright red is fine in that case.

A transplanted flathead 8 could arguably be about any color. Many hot rodders use what color paint they desire.

Ive decanted Rustoleum 2x , thinned it with lacquer thinner and airbrushed it over Stynylrez primer/sealer and it's turned out awesome. There are a few good colors or some basic colors mixed with their white that makes for some good classic car pastel colors. After thinning and airbrushing it comes out as nice as any model enamels do. The key to my statement above is " I've " past tense. With the advent of paints like Tamiya LP lacquers it's just less work and faster dry time to use those, with even nicer results. Those I've shot to bare plastic for small stuff or over Mr Surfacer otherwise. I already posted my sentiment on primers in another post, so I'm not going there. By the way, is the OP poster still in this thread or are we just conversing with one another here, minus him ?.

Rustoleum primer is basically enamel primer, various solvents to speed initial dry but still enamel. Enamels have a long cure process. I deemed it unusable for basing models. I tried a can, gave it one shot on a scrap piece and by smell alone I knew it was not lacquer. It smelled the same as every other enamel based primer I ever used and so returned it, since I told the hardware store guy ahead of time ( they have a return policy). You have to be careful what you spray over enamels, not to mention when you do it. Hotter Lacquer in particular wrinkles the stuff all up. I never use enamel primers.

I think it's just the perspective between the Cord and Packard, even in real the Cord is low and wide appearing compared to most of the bigger classic era cars. The Deusenberg seems narrow, long and high as well, when compared with the Cord ( I've built both though decades ago). I suspect the Packard is to scale. All those Monogram classics build up into nice models at any rate !

The only paints I put Rustoleum clear lacquer over confidently is artist acrylics and craft paints. Never an issue, goes great. I wouldn't ever put Rustoleum lacquer over any enamel as hot lacquer over enamel is a well known issue, or even the hobby lacquers, as it's too vague as to what those lacquers really are. Or for that matter some of the hobby acrylics even. Certainly not without testing. The clear's solvents and carrier attacked your color coat, as has been mentioned. The color coat and Rustoleum lacquer are not compatible.

The best I can say to that is there are many types of plastics. Household plastics vary but at that they probably/most likely are not like the styrene in modern models. The can says plastics but it's not specific, the first thing that comes to my mind is lawn or deck furniture or plastic trim pieces around the house,flower pots etc. Not model kits at any rate. Now that said, when my kids were young and we did a bunch of model train kits I used a lot of Krylon primers back then. But Krylon has changed formulation at least two times that I know of since then. Never had an issue with the old Krylon primers on kit plastic in model trains at any rate.

I'd just get a color that was as close as I could find and paint the whole danged thing personally.

Monty, If you're airbrushing enamels, I think you will find yourself just as comfortable with Tamiya LP Lacquers. Thin them with Mr Leveling thinner around 50/50. They go on beautifully, gloss paints retain full gloss when dry and dry time is minutes not days or weeks. Maybe give them a try and see for yourself. Try the gloss black on some old Model A fenders or something, amazing. My first test of the stuff was the black on 34 Ford pickup fenders. I shoot this stuff with a Paasche H, thinned like that I use around 18 psi. You can also use the Tamiya LT to thin them, just after your last coat load whatever paint is left in your cup with thinner ( even medium dry hardware store LT will work)and blow that right over the finish before dry, it will totally level right out. Just with Mr Leveling thinner you don't need that. Anyway, the nice thing about these lacquers is it's about impossible to make them run. Also any lingering odor is gone within a half hour or so. Any over spray melts right into the previous coat too.

Nah, it's simple if you don't do a deep dive: Nitro lacquer which is made from tree resins as the base. And synthetic which is plastic resin or acrylic. That's in the base. I just never thought of acrylic lacquer primers but I've shot plenty of acrylic lacquer colors in automotive refinishing and nitro in wood working.. Now I know. But I have no interest in molecular stuff, my brain is clogged up enough after 73 years of this world. What boggles my mind ( and it can stay that way) is water solvable oil paints, you can use linseed oil or water. And it's water clean up. Stranger than that, it works. And I can say that because I've used it, yup smells like oils, cuts with water or oil, It should be an oxymoron.

True lacquer to me is made from cellulose, IE nitrocellulose lacquer. Yes today it's synthetic, true. And there is acrylic lacquer, I just never thought of it that way for primers. The beetle thing sometimes called lacquer over seas ( mostly Asia) is actually what we see in our stores here as Shellac. It's made from the secretion of the lac bug. That stuff coats tree limbs and is flaked off. Take that and mix it with alcohol, it melts into the liquid and you have shellac. I have never known of any model primers or paints made from this, though it makes a good stain sealer, so I guess in that sense you could call it primer or at least sealer.

The label of the spray can for Mr Surfacer 1000 says this: Product name : Synthetic Resin Paint. Material: Acrylic synthetic resin, organic solvent, pigment.

This post runs on a bit but it's good info I believe: That's a great chart ! My amber prescription bottles are indeed pp #5. But here is an interesting fact for all, on the pp bottles, Stynylrez primer sticks best, better even than Mr Surfacer, both in terms of scratch and tape pull tests to pp #5, I've conducted. But on model plastic the roles are pretty equal if not leaning slightly toward the Mr product.. Here is an even better observation, Tamiya LP lacquer sprayed directly onto each surface with no primer fails badly on pp #5 but sticks like iron to styrene model kit plastic ( shouldn't be a surprise since it's formulated for kit plastic). The only reason I see for the primer on the model plastic is color control, surface evenness prep etc. Not so much adhesion. And it's nearly the same result for Tamiya X series acrylics. Waterborne acrylics however need the primer to stick and with primer do very well at it. Without primer the stuff could flake off and has for many people unknowing of that fact. Anyway I have no qualms about using Mr Primer/Mr Surfacer or Stynylrez on models. Either is sufficient, however Stynylrez is both primer and sealer. That can have advantages when needing a sealer. Some folks may not know this, Mr Surfacer is not really a lacquer primer. Read the label sometime ! It's a very good primer though. Another tidbit: you can thin Stynylrez with hardware store medium dry lacquer thinner, close to 50/50 and in so doing you will get a crazy smooth satin finish from it. I learned that over in the FSM forums, so of course had to do it. Beautiful result. I use it on frames and water hoses etc as color coat in the black Stynylrez. And as a further note, Klean Strip brand hardware store lacquer thinner comes in two formulas now, labelled at the top of the front of the can. Fast dry and Medium dry.

I use the amber prescription bottles ( God knows I build up a collection of empties fast enough !), primer is a must for a couple of reasons to include that the amber color bothers the color output/rendition. But more than that I learned some time ago that tape pull tests will fail much easier on those bottles, as well as scratch tests compared to kit plastic. As Ace mentioned, I too use extra hoods or inside of body shells etc for my final tests.

IDK, but it just seems to me one doesn't have to wait very long at this forum or look around very hard for that matter and someone is having trouble with either Duplicolor or Rustoleum spray paints on their models. To me there is a message there !

Glycerin works. Dish soap is quite old school but I like it. The key with any of this stuff as flow aid is don't over do it. Honestly I like the results I get with dish soap better than glycerin. But that's me, someone else might think otherwise. You can also add commercial flow aid, like Liquitex or Vallejo. Again carefully. The biggest key in the formula in terms of additives, I make up is the Liquitex slow dry fluid retarder. That stops the tip dry with craft paints and artist acrylics. Don't mistake Liquitex retarder medium for the fluid, they are two different products.

By the way those are louse cell phone photos so there are jaggies and such that aren't there on the model or not magnified like that at least. I've since upgraded the phone.

Yes that's my formula. Works great with FolkArt, Apple Barrel, Anita's, And real well with Craft Smart. I have another blend for DecoArt. Works well with Createx but better with a small amount of denatured alcohol added, since Createx 4011 reducer is very close to the same formula. Here is a Mustang with basecoat Rose Gold Silver craft paint shot with that formula. This is out of the airbrush untouched. The second photo should be the same body with Tamiya clear blue over the craft paint unpolished. And is a 39 Ford sedan in craft paint with Tamiya clear over it un polished. 49 Ford craft paint base and a combo of Tamiya Clear red mixed with a splash of Clrear Blue, 5 coats of the clear. This is not sanded or polished either.

Wow that looks awesome and sounds it as well ! I found one at a hobby store listed online. Ebay is nuts on price for used but they do have a scant few listings.

Now that would be a really interesting build ! Not that I liked 47 Chevies back in the day but for nostalgia sake one would be awesome. How is the kit and to get one though ?

Gel type super glue for me. And make sure the parts have a decent fit.

Tamiya acrylic has the potency when opened of a watered down pickled egg brine. Spraying it, the fumes don't last ten minutes, unlike wiping a stained wall down with Fantastik that takes your breath away and gives a headache.

Yes ! I even decant the 1000, then further thin with Mr Leveling thinner and airbrush it. It comes out super smooth. Smooth enough I spray Tamiya LP black lacquer over it and sand nothing. I thin the LP with the Leveling thinner as well. The finish is gorgeous, I just did fenders for a 34 Ford pickup this morning in black in fact. Really the finish is beyond what one might expect for a stock truck.