Dave G.

If you're gonna spray all that paint through the nozzle anyway, might as well just paint the model, if that was your original intent.

If there is no sign of weeping/leaking now after shipping and getting tossed around, Enjoy your free can of paint. It's not gonna blow up if that's what you're thinking.

Half my problem these days is just simply remembering to strain the paint. Just yesterday, I worked up a color, straining it. It was a small amount that just got dumped. Later in the day in a test shoot with the same formula, here comes a piece of booger, I forgot to strain, duh. But that was the Paasche H with #5 tip, that thing will pass sludge I think. That blop yesterday would have clogged my Ganzton right up with it's mini tips.. Anyway, you will never regret straining your paint.

That helps, there is a lot of grill valance and air dam area.

I thought of this as well. It looks too long for the body and too deep in the fender (in terms of height) well department, even if it got in there. But I'd have to see it for real. And I'm probably wrong. For me, if something's going to be tough fitting, I usually find it's from Revell, I don't know why people love Revell kits so.

I just strain my paint with paper paint filters, from the mixing cup to another mixing cup. From that cup directly to the airbrush. But if the Procon has those tiny screw in tips, a microscopic dried piece of a spec will screw up the pattern. My Ganzton has those, and that's mainly why I don't use it. I have other airbrushes where you can get a grip on the tips and are much easier to clean just in general. Sometimes even back flushing a few times and good till the next session. For cars, I also pretty much prefer single action. Anyway, if you have those tiny tips, take your time cleaning them. Sometimes I soaked those overnight in acetone or hardware lacquer thinner. It's a great spraying airbrush, though, when everything is right.

Well it's an interesting project at least !! I often think of the Monogram #9 Indy car from back around 1960. I built one of those back then, even have considered picking up an old kit off EBay ( I don't think it's ever been re-kitted).. That kit was my first kit that decals came out decent on. Course there weren't a lot of them. But to me, Indy cars, in my heart, have never been the same since.

I think the colors that remain are the same or similar. Testers has changed in some ways through the years, faster initial dryers, and to me anyway, a slightly thinner consistency in the bottle. Not to mention they aren't 10, 12 or 15 cents anymore ! Your red is probably as period correct as you will find.

Oh ya, airplane dope was around for models and also real aircraft which were fabric covered. Like the bi planes and Piper Cubs or Aeronca aiircraft. Rubber band free flight models were popular. As were control line glow engine powered models.

Testers enamels came out in 1929, fwiw. I personally started building models in 1958, I was 8. The first paints I used was Testor's, since in our area everyone sold that line. Pactra enamels showed up later around us, and had some great color options and great finish.

Today around here kids can't work till 16. I think it's at 14 they can get a paper location, like standing in front of a bakery or drug store selling what they can at certain hours of the day only. Gone are the routes in our degenerate society today. It's soccer mom and now Dad era. Families pay out big money to have their kids going nuts in league competitions, taken more seriously that God Himself. Where weekends and even many early week day evenings whole families eaten up with that BLAH_BLAH_BLAH_BLAH. Then those stupid computer games. Homework is an exercise in how best to operate in google, download, print, done. Now wit AI, it can all be done for you, more time for games. Sorry for the attitude, but it's something that irks me.

Good point, I forget we had resin here, was thinking styrene.

You base substrate ( plastic) is contaminated.. Send it for a swim in Super Clean. Or depending on the paint 91 IPA could strip it. But full submersion at any rate.

Yep, fish eyes for sure. My final wash is with odorless mineral spirits, same as Ace with IPA, wiped down with white paper towels. Don't forget to blow off the surface as well. In 1-1 painting my final wipe down was Dupont 3812 enamel reducer, much like OMS. I'm just following old habits. Watch out for kitchen cooking spray being air borne . Animal dander has oil in it. Your own spray when speaking can land on the surface. We emit more than one might think. This isn't to make anyone paranoid, just do that final wipe/wash. Also watch out for some IPA, be sure to get the 91 or greater, less than that can or might have soothing agents in it. Don't buy Rubbing Alcohol for this purpose.

The finescale forums just got a revamp. I couldn't enter via my old info just today or old automatic link, or at all earlier in the week. Today I signed in via Google. Just fwiw. It appears to have undergone a face lift lol.

Glad you secured some ! Also, glad to help concerning Createx when that day comes, if that day comes. Don't just wing it, you'll get screwed up. And if you go to places like Hobby Lobby for advise, they barely know they have it, never mind anything about it.

Amazon is usually from Spray Gunner or AZ Toy/Hobby. But Spray Gunner is out of both thinners, the regular Mr Thinner and the Leveling thinner. As of yesterday anyway. I haven't looked today.

Barbetos is out of stock on the Kaizo Leveling also. But BJ Hobby is still listing the Mr Leveling Thinner this morning as in stock. Or I should say add to cart is not blocked.

I've never heard of them, but I found some at BJ Hobby Supply, in midwest USA. Maybe try that. There isn't much around. Another place had 110ml bottles.

I had a similar thought, though wasn't thinking Tamiya specifically. It certainly would work if hitting/picking the right shade of drab.

I asked here a few months ago, but I at that time , seemed to be the only one with a problem finding it. Then it showed up at Amazon for a while, and now I see it's out of stock there again. So for me, I've just been using Createx and craft paints. And I had gotten away from needing MLT, forgetting about it till this message today. I can't answer why the US market isn't getting supplied. So happens, I get along fine with Createx anyway. Or various enamels thinned with hardware store lacquer thinner, so it doesn't much matter to me.

My wife actually placed the order, they had one in stock at one of the Local Michaels stores for $19.99. 30% discount on that, plus we are rewards members, so she had a voucher as well. Anyway, total cost $11 and change. I just went and picked it up. So I got to looking online, another store had none, but yet another had low inventory but in stock for $21.99. The same deal is still on for 30% off and any vouchers anyone might have. It might be worth looking locally if someone has been wanting a 57 Chevy. Just go to Michaels online and punch in your local area.

I do the same as you for kit decals, the few decals I ever use that is.

Xacto to me is just so sharp. I prefer the single edge razor blades. You can buy a 10 pack at the hardware store usually. Or 100 at Amazon. I wrap the upper part of the blade in blue painters tape, and just grip it from there, no blade holder. Been doing that for 50 years or more. I used to make my own stencils in 1/1 using the razor blades.

I went quick connects, one hose between multi brand airbrushes. The adapters I use are iwata ( 1/8 actually) . The other end of the hose is Iwata ( 1/8) to 1/4. I do still have a 50 yo line with Badger to 1/4 nipple that plugs into my portable compressor. All adapters have since been bought from Amazon. My airbrushes are Ganzton Iwata knock off, my original 50 yo Badger 200, two Paasche airbrushes, the H and suction feed dual action. The quick connects make swapping out simple. My airbrushes all have a connector nipple, in fact that Paasche dual action came with one. The compressor has a 1/4 female quick connect on it for feeding air hoses for air tools. So my airbrush hose is adapted to that and has the 1/4 male end on it.. On the other end, the airbrush end is Iwata 1/8 quick connect. I like on that Ganzton airbrush, the Mac valve. This way you can just set 30 or 35 psi psi, and adjust down for your proper spray pattern on board the airbrush. All airbrushes should have a Mac valve, just my opinion. Anyway, Point Zero makes a nice water trap regulator if you're looking for one of those for say the side of your work station. Very accurate. Set your compressor output for 50 psi then line pressure after your work station water trap for whatever you need for flowing air. With that 350 airbrush, Id guess start at 25 psi working pressure ( in other words with the air flowing through the brush, not static pressure). Back in the day, so to speak, I had the Badger starter brush and the Badger 200. The best thing I ever ran into for spraying Testors enamels was the setting of 35 psi. Ya it cause some extra over spray but the paint stomization and flow out was phenomenal. Big difference from enamel and the then popular Floquil paints, in terms of pressure.