Dave G.

50-60% windshield washer fluid, 20% Windex, the remainder is IPA alcohol (91% not the 70% stuff) . To that I add a drop or two of flow agent or glycerin will also work ( this helps keep the nozzle clear and paint from sticking inside the brush on your next paint application). If you are using water anyway you also can just mix it 50/50 with the IPA and use a drop of dish soup in it. That works too but I have the other ingredients in the house anyway and it works well, basically like commercial acrylic airbrush cleaner. You can use rough numbers the exact ratio isn't critical.

Thanks !

I use a home made airbrush cleaner I make up and use for acrylic paints. But what ever you use do it right after painting, don't let your airbrush sit around. Once this stuff dries it will b3e a bear to get out of the innards of the airbrush, as are most acrylics but all the more so where this is acrylic poly.

Thanks !

I'm using a bunch of different ones.I find most stick well as long as I use the Stynyrez primer from Badger on the plastic and scuff the plastic first. Probably Liquitex soft body bonds best but I haven't had much trouble with FolkArt either and they have a ton of colors to choose from. The key is thinning, primer coat and sealing. Most anything can be sandwiched between the primer and sealer as long as it's compatible and sprays on smooth.. I'm using stynyrez primers, I find this to bond pretty decently to scuffed plastic, then any acrylic paint pretty much bonds to that primer. Top Coat this time was clear lacquer but next time I think I'm going with Liquitex Gloss varnish, it sprays on like warm butter on hot toast and requires very little buffing. I was using the satin in this stuff for my wife's ceramics, it mixes in with acrylics to make various sheens but is also a top coat. In her case we used it to seal and protect but it's a dream to spray. I just recently got a bottle in gloss,. I use Micheals rewards cards and get 40 or 50% off coupons and that is when I buy these more expensive Liquitex finishes and additives. Liquitex products are made to airbrushed, all but the heavy body airbrush very smoothly and bond well. And the additives can be used in other acrylic paints. I could go on and on talking about paints so I'll stop there lol !

Hello from SE New England ! Been around modeling since the 1950's but got away from cars since the mid 70's ( it was my major pastime growing up and into young adulthood but with kids and so on went with trains and radio control aircraft for a time and then dropped out for a bit). My wife said I had some old kits in storage and maybe I'd like to put those together. One is a Revell 69 Mustang Super Cobrajet gifted to me in the 80's. Another is a Revell 26T street rod T delivery sedan still sealed never opened, don't even recall where it came from and not sure I'll build this one but am about half done with the Mustang. Someplace around here is a larger scale Stutz Bearcat kit which we have not located yet. I was going to start with that one actually but it didn't go that way. Well anyway, as I said hello ! Good to be airbrushing parts etc but funny working with acrylics. I have my old Badger 200 that I upgraded to the more modern nozzles and also a Paasche H with three tips and needles, color cup and bottles. I also do wood turning and the H was used for Christmas ornament decorating and gloss coating. I find it to work well for primer and clear coating on this Mustang. I used the 200 on the smaller parts and interior though. Also blackening the grill, got right in there with the small nozzle. Have a great day ! Dave G.