
Dave G.
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Everything posted by Dave G.
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That's a cool body, I wouldn't mind building one bone stock or mild rod/street machine. Nose high gassers aren't my thing buy I credit you with your ambition on this build though !
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Interesting build !
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Thanks. Yes I thought of the front sump but some hot rodders have run the pickup back to the rear on those in real already. When I drag raced them I went down with the sump, two extra quarts and baffled the pan but making an FE live the drag strip life is a message for another board. I will say I ran them hard.
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Back in the day when I built a lot of these cars I made a lot of them as class B circle track cars and on those I cut all sorts of fender wells, put dents in the bodies with candle heat etc. But when I built the street n strip version I did not. I want to kind of replicate what I remember of that build. But today there are more parts available to work with. And I was probably 12 when I built that car, it would have been 1962 then, that's a long time ago lol ! I'm willing to cut inner fender wells and reconstruct somewhat in there but not outer.. I'm also thinking now the Olds engine I used in that kit may have come from one of the 40 Ford kits of that day, maybe the sedan ? I know it was an Olds not a Caddy that comes with it. And it wasn't a Buick nail head either. I know because Olds power was something my dad considered a big deal back then. I remember him bragging about his Olds 88 of the day. On this build though if I don't hooshcow an Olds I think I'd like to do an FE Ford or maybe a Y block and keep it all Ford . The thing is I drag raced with real FE Fords in my 67 Mustang GT so they have a little sweet spot in my heart these days..
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Indeed, looks doable to me. Move the spring hangers in slightly, cut the back wall of the wheel well and shape some thin plastic or even cardboard in it's place slightly further in board. A slice out of the frame. The springs might be a bit of a pain. But for more tire it looks like fabricating sub frames would be required, not sure I want to go there. I need to get one of these kits in hand to really tell. I probably can cut all this with my raza saw ( my dremel speed control box fried) Someone mentioned radiusing the wheel wells. No way, it's not a look I like at all, maybe elongate slightly but keep the stock general profile would be ok. Thanks for all the photos guys ! And ideas too.
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I still like the 10-1/2x15 M&H idea at the moment, even if it means some alterations to get them in. But I also don't have the kit yet and the last one I built with slicks was some 50+ years ago, so I don't recall what the floor pan and frame even looks like right now. I know the frame is molded in, I remember that much but no clue as to space to hack out an inner fender well without cutting the frame and making it a more complex job or not. Most cars back then had some space there.
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Thought someone might have a ball park idea ? It says 1/25 scale, no mention of real tire diameter or width. I'd like to fit some slicks inside the fender wells of the AMT 49 Ford in 1/25th. Probably 28"x9 or 10"x rim size 15". I don't mind massaging the fender wells but I have no interest in radiusing wheel wells or full tubbing for this build at least. I want to keep a street and strip look. I know the big slick set would be too large, or assume so anyway.
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Ya time goes by, I started building models when I was about 7, that was 1957. At ten though, I rode my bike to either the hardware store where they sold some kits and supplies or better, across the city to the hobby store. I also got a paper route and made my own purchases, dad wasn't fond of the cost of my habit, since he gave me a $.35 allowance and the cost of a kit was outside my weekly chore money and I seemed to want more than one a month plus paint and supplies( I think an AMT 32 or 40 Ford kit was $1.25 back then). My paper route kept me well supplied with money left over, even a small savings account and I didn't hurt dads beer money ever again, not even purchasing a new bicycle to get around on, since parents in those days just plain didn't cart you around where ever you wanted to go.. At least not mine anyway.
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I like that ! Where did you acquire the y block from ? Love the quick change and transverse spring, I've got a 26 T kit with a Jag rear end I really don't like and was thinking exactly that a quick change or even conventional rear end with transverse spring would appeal to me way more. Your work is inspiring.
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I have a Revell 26 Ford T sedan delivery street rod "Lil John's" I can't seem to get the steam up to even open it. It's been in a closet probably since the 80's still in original wrap. I think I keep it because it's small block Ford powered instead of Chevy. Hate the Jag rear end, wish it was a regular sedan instead of delivery but yet I leave out hope for some inspiration one day. The older I get the less it interests me really but I did move it from the closet to next to my living room chair.. It's collecting dust there now.
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Gravity feed to siphon/side feed conversion
Dave G. replied to aurfalien's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
I don't think I'm changing anything at this stage of life in terms of brands, have had good luck with both Badger and Paasche in terms of function and support, for 40+ years in the case of Badger, less time with Paasche. And actually they are both supported in the aftermarket well anyway ( genuine parts through dealers). -
Gravity feed to siphon/side feed conversion
Dave G. replied to aurfalien's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Well it's a quality tool and will last you a lifetime. -
Gravity feed to siphon/side feed conversion
Dave G. replied to aurfalien's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Hah ! Now you gotta spray some 2% milk through it and let us know how it flows lol ! Seriously though, that looks great. Sure is a pretty looking AB. -
Gravity feed to siphon/side feed conversion
Dave G. replied to aurfalien's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
I don't always use the side cup with my 200 either. I find it lends itself well to little jobs where just a little paint will be used. Also testing paints for color and flow where quick changes may be made. I find the metal color cup has it's uses for me but I wouldn't want to be without the jars for more volumes of paint, especially with the large needle and nozzle combo. ( that can really go through the paint, especially if you screw up and use the medium needle like I did once). . -
Gravity feed to siphon/side feed conversion
Dave G. replied to aurfalien's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
That knurled fitting to the side of the jar screws into the top of the airbrush body where the to cup would normally be on a gravity feed brush.. Of course it becomes obvious that the posters AB has a removable cup. I suspect it's going to work very well, I was just curious of the difference between it and a bottom feed with side cup in terms of pressure etc, if any. There may be no difference. -
Gravity feed to siphon/side feed conversion
Dave G. replied to aurfalien's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Right around10 psi with paints thinned pretty loose. It's a bottom feed brush though, with side cup. You're drawing up and over and i have not seen that configuration in action before. I'm just curious is all, be sure to let us know how you get along with it. -
Gravity feed to siphon/side feed conversion
Dave G. replied to aurfalien's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Looks good, I'd be curious of how your air pressure and thin rates change if any. Top feed I think is good for small details using low pressure and with small volumes of paint. I know I use a side color cup on my Badger 200 for those sort of things and have considered a top feed gun but never made the move in 40 years so far. With a side color cup there is no issue lifting a few drops of paint, where with jars the tube may not be in the paint. Otherwise jars are fine for me. They probably make a color cup for your rig there, though I suppose all you have to do is put the top cup back on if you want to ever use it that way again. -
I really don't care much for the tall gasser look of the day anymore but when I built them way back when , I'd say too, the AMT 37 Chevy was for me. But I also used to kit bash the 40 Ford coupe into a gasser. Then I got into kit bashing short track circle track cars. I lost interest in drag cars till I was going to the track myself with a real 67 Mustang GT fastback.
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Not sure on the 68 GT but on the 69 Cobrajet you get all the chassis and engine in the body, then mount the front grill/headlight surround piece. And taillight piece as well is glued in after.
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Paasche Airbrush suggestions
Dave G. replied to Oldmopars's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
What are you looking for in trade ? -
I know I had the kit in it's original form, I believe back around 1960 or so ( or when ever the first release was). For the life of me I can't recall it ever being finished or on display or even working on it. I bet I parted it out into other builds. I may have used that body on a slot car chassis actually now that I think about. Yes, and I put the big motor in it and it got in a crash and got smashed into an overpass bridge lol ! No clue what the other parts migrated into.