Dave G.
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Paasche Airbrush suggestions
Dave G. replied to Oldmopars's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
I upgraded my 200 last year, I used the old hose and got a Badger to 1/4" adapter and put a standard 1/4 coupler end on that to fit my portable shop compressor ( never a fear of low air supply lol). and I bought the upgraded medium and large nozzle sets with appropriate needles. My fine nozzle set I kept original because it's always worked ok. I wanted to try the new pedal style nozzle sets, Glad I did. It's still not double action though, you have to manually dial flow down and up. and with the cost of all the upgrades you can buy a new Patriot 105 by the time all is said and done. By the way I use a color cup on my 200 fairly often, especially with the fine needle combo. I use one on the H too but more so on the 200 because the 200 is my detail gun. I just wanted to rejuvenate my old 200 is all. It works great. So does the Paasche H. I bet the Badger 350 does too. -
Paasche Airbrush suggestions
Dave G. replied to Oldmopars's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
If you are an Amazon prime member there is an offer up now for the TG where you hit subscribe and save and get 40% off with the coupon that generates. The regular price at Amazon is$98 for the 3 needle set plus fan air cap at Amazon to begin with so that is a substantial deal ( $58 with free shipping). The TS has the fan cap as well fwiw but is not listed in this program. I think that set is $89.. The Badger Patriot 105 is on this deal as well, though you weren't asking about Badger airbrushes. With the 40% off I guess that brush would be around $40. All that said , I use a Paasche H with #3 head set mostly. Also a Badger 200 that is 40 years old, both are single action. I use either one with the color cup or with jars of mixed paint depending on the volume of paint I need to run. Incidentally, I can paint the mesh of a 1/25th scale chrome grill with the Badger 200 and fine needle/ nozzle without masking, so double action not really required though I guess it would be good to clear the head if starting to get tip dry. I don't know if the TG would be as comfortable getting into small details like that quite honestly. -
Ok, seeing I was maybe 12 at the time I built this, I either took the three two barrels and put them on an Olds engine that came in a Willies kit I never liked much ( robbed a bunch of parts from that for other kits as I recall) or I thought the Caddy was an Olds. It's too long ago to recall that fine a detail. Thanks for all the info !
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Just curious if someone might know what it is. I built one of the original 49 Ford kits way back in the early 60's or so, actually several of them. One I built that was a favorite of mine that i painted maroon, put slicks and traction bars on it and an Olds engine with I think tri power carbs, de-chromed the body sides etc. I don't recall if the engine came with the kit and no clue what engines comes with Gas Man kit.
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Thanks ! Speaking of posting photos, is there a photo size restriction here ?
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Primers that are safe to use indoors?
Dave G. replied to CabDriver's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Indeed. -
Primers that are safe to use indoors?
Dave G. replied to CabDriver's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
What airbrush and nozzle size would you be shooting the Stynylrez through ? -
Primers that are safe to use indoors?
Dave G. replied to CabDriver's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
For me it's the pellet stove but it's also true. The pellet stove is way dustier than acrylic paint jobs ever thought of being. Now the over spray from metallic nail polish on her stove is another story, pulled that one off before I had the booth ! Just another plug for a booth, well worth having all the way around. Ya just putting down news papers and turning on the range hood didn't work out so hot. -
Primers that are safe to use indoors?
Dave G. replied to CabDriver's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
You could get one of those Master or Point Zero booths or similar that are all made the same under different names and price points. But I think for $90 or so you can get one with the hose and attachment that fits under an almost closed window for shooting solvent based paints or even acrylics. But truth be known, "news flash" ! Our bodies aren't made to ingest paint, solvent or acrylic. And these booths fold up into a case no larger than a trumpet case if even that big. Should be no problem to stick it under a bed or behind a chest someplace when not in use.. If I were moving into a small area with a delicate and I'm sure pretty young lady that I cared deeply for or similar situation ( pets etc) I'd go acrylic and booth personally. I mostly do even in my house with large kitchen. Now and then I spray some solvent based paints, nail polishes and such or otherwise lacquer but I've mostly converted to acrylics now and still use a booth when I spray. Acrylics still stick up the inside of your nose if left air borne, get the booth is my advise.. Wart off sinus infections and such, they are prevalent enough without invitation as well.. -
Thanks everyone !
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Primers that are safe to use indoors?
Dave G. replied to CabDriver's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
50-60% windshield washer fluid, 20% Windex, the remainder is IPA alcohol (91% not the 70% stuff) . To that I add a drop or two of flow agent or glycerin will also work ( this helps keep the nozzle clear and paint from sticking inside the brush on your next paint application). If you are using water anyway you also can just mix it 50/50 with the IPA and use a drop of dish soup in it. That works too but I have the other ingredients in the house anyway and it works well, basically like commercial acrylic airbrush cleaner. You can use rough numbers the exact ratio isn't critical. -
Thanks !
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Primers that are safe to use indoors?
Dave G. replied to CabDriver's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
I use a home made airbrush cleaner I make up and use for acrylic paints. But what ever you use do it right after painting, don't let your airbrush sit around. Once this stuff dries it will b3e a bear to get out of the innards of the airbrush, as are most acrylics but all the more so where this is acrylic poly. -
Thanks !
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I'm using a bunch of different ones.I find most stick well as long as I use the Stynyrez primer from Badger on the plastic and scuff the plastic first. Probably Liquitex soft body bonds best but I haven't had much trouble with FolkArt either and they have a ton of colors to choose from. The key is thinning, primer coat and sealing. Most anything can be sandwiched between the primer and sealer as long as it's compatible and sprays on smooth.. I'm using stynyrez primers, I find this to bond pretty decently to scuffed plastic, then any acrylic paint pretty much bonds to that primer. Top Coat this time was clear lacquer but next time I think I'm going with Liquitex Gloss varnish, it sprays on like warm butter on hot toast and requires very little buffing. I was using the satin in this stuff for my wife's ceramics, it mixes in with acrylics to make various sheens but is also a top coat. In her case we used it to seal and protect but it's a dream to spray. I just recently got a bottle in gloss,. I use Micheals rewards cards and get 40 or 50% off coupons and that is when I buy these more expensive Liquitex finishes and additives. Liquitex products are made to airbrushed, all but the heavy body airbrush very smoothly and bond well. And the additives can be used in other acrylic paints. I could go on and on talking about paints so I'll stop there lol !
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Hello from SE New England ! Been around modeling since the 1950's but got away from cars since the mid 70's ( it was my major pastime growing up and into young adulthood but with kids and so on went with trains and radio control aircraft for a time and then dropped out for a bit). My wife said I had some old kits in storage and maybe I'd like to put those together. One is a Revell 69 Mustang Super Cobrajet gifted to me in the 80's. Another is a Revell 26T street rod T delivery sedan still sealed never opened, don't even recall where it came from and not sure I'll build this one but am about half done with the Mustang. Someplace around here is a larger scale Stutz Bearcat kit which we have not located yet. I was going to start with that one actually but it didn't go that way. Well anyway, as I said hello ! Good to be airbrushing parts etc but funny working with acrylics. I have my old Badger 200 that I upgraded to the more modern nozzles and also a Paasche H with three tips and needles, color cup and bottles. I also do wood turning and the H was used for Christmas ornament decorating and gloss coating. I find it to work well for primer and clear coating on this Mustang. I used the 200 on the smaller parts and interior though. Also blackening the grill, got right in there with the small nozzle. Have a great day ! Dave G.