Dave G.

If all you want is a nicer finish on small parts you can just spray them all with spray cans while still on the parts trees. Then touch up with a brush when you pull them off the trees if needed. Or you can just thin your brush paints about 15-20% and continue to brush them. The little bit of thinner will help leveling and flow out, you would be hard pressed to know they weren't sprayed.

Well Don Yost who builds and paints models both commercially and for contests, has won more contests than most of us would ever even enter uses both the Paasche H and the Paasche starter brush which is the H design made from cheaper materials. He has a bigger shop for larger volumes of painting and probably a larger compressor than most of us since he uses the large needle ( the medium is sufficient for our needs) but those are the brushes he uses exclusively to get his award winning finishes from. Follow the master painter, you could do worse and you don't need anything different. That starter set is all of $25 if you over pay for it. But you will need a compressor sooner than later. And the H would be a lifetime investment. I own an H set I use quite a bit. My longest term brush ( 45 years so far) and most used because it naturally fits my hand is the Badger 200. And I have a double action brush I rarely use for car models.

Just me ( barring getting that frame out of there, it might pop out easier than you think depending what glue and how much was used) but I'd spray the floor pans with MM Metallizer aluminum plate buffing, then brush the frame with Stynylrez black primer, and finally spray a single pass of Metalizer clear on it all. That will give you a satin finish. The remaining chassis parts can be sprayed with Stynylrez and also clear coated.

If you didn't go nuts with glue maybe you can still pop the chassis back out of there.

Stynylrez, it's pretty near all I use anymore. Try it, you won't regret it.

Oh very true Force, won't deny that.

Ya the 28 spline axles were the weak link in the 9", at least with slicks. I raced a 67 big block Mustang with slicks and it didn't take long to first twist the splines slightly, then snap the axle. I upgraded the the posi section from detroit locker with 28 splines to the posi with 31 splines and that ended that particular problem.

Course depends which 9" you want to represent but generally speaking the 49 and 50 rear ends are close enough in modelling them. I'm building an AMT 49 now and using the stock rear axle for a street and strip type car. The most notably different 9" is one where the carrier is a nodular iron unit used with 427 Mustangs and such. Besides the nearly indestructible material it also had double webs in the front of the housing with a visible N at the top. Several differences internally that wouldn't matter in a styrene model of course.

You could also get a nailhead from an AMT 40 Ford coupe that has a couple different induction options. So from the 40 Ford sedan you can get a nice Olds engine or from the coupe a Buick.

I built one of those when I was a kid back around 1962 or so and I'm thinking I put in an Olds engine from the AMT 40 Ford sedan. If not I still think it would look nice in there and be period to your year range. It has options of blower, injection or carbs. My choice would be three 2bbl, it was just like the thing to do in that era. I think if I remember right you want a rear sump engine/oil pan for correct clearance to the front axle . I could be wrong, 1960's is a long time ago lol ! A friend of mine back in the mid 60's had a 1/1 1959 and pulled out the 6 and put in a Y block with 3 strombergs on it, small cam, dual exhaust. It may not be much today but back then it seemed like it pulled your sox off with 3:70 gears. Also very period of course but too common if you want something really different. Sounded good too, only warmed over Y blocks have that particular sound.

Well I'm just going by what the owner at my LHS has said. However I did not ask about the spray cans. And he did state the disclaimer that Rustoleum does strange things so you never know for sure...

They aren't going away that we can tell. Some of the Model Master enamel bottles are, in particular the military colors. .

Nice job on that tank, especially for a first effort and with craft paints !! Looks great !

Hah, I just called the LHS and he actually has Metalizer stainless steel in stock. I'll buzz down there for that and see what else came in if anything. Edit: I decided to wait and put an order in elsewhere for a few different Metalizers and ship them all at once, the LHS went up to $5.29 a bottle . But I did buy a 2mm Molotow pen which was priced competitively and I can use on my 49 Ford build basically today. The stainless Metalizer was just a restock item. You never know in that store, some things are priced well and others well over suggested retail.

Just in kind of perusing about online it seems some ebay sellers have the MM blue angel yellow, maybe they have some other colors you want too and can stock up..... fwiw. Also the regular Testors enamels spray pretty much the same as MM enamel. I already mentioned Humbrol. Then if push comes to shove for car finishes you could get a hold of Scalefinishes and he will eventually mix any automotive color you desire in either lacquer or enamel.

Good to know, I get up near there now and then. Online orders wouldn't be far away either.

Thanks. Where are these guys located ?

By the way you can turn 91% ipa into 70% by adding in 21% distilled water. And it will never be 91 again since alcohol evaporates faster than water.

My LHS made no mention of the Metalizers going, when I kind of assumed they might go too I alluded to that. He basically shook his head no. But that was back around Sept and I notice that he is out of many flavors of them. Sooo, I don't know. I mostly airbrush them but have brushed them too and thought they went on fine. I like that aluminum plate for intakes, auto trans, even used it on an old Mercer for some parts that were aluminum on those. If these go I'm tossed between Extreme Metal, I believe by AK or trying a couple of the Vallejo metals that are supposed to be quite good considering they are acrylic. It's just for me a no brainer at this point to put on the MM though. So I will learn something new I reckon if indeed these are going away.

Oops, double post.

They probably aren't much of a volume mover in the eyes of corporate Rustoleum. Especially with the hobby having other viable options these days. I still use a couple of them, in particular Aluminum Plate, it just goes down nice and thin and covers and is buffable. I like that.

Ya LL3, it's tough to beat MM enamels for a straight up no fuss finish. Some of the guys over in FSM are really liking the Humbrol enamels now that they switched. I haven't tried Humbrol in decades so can't comment personally. It's good you got a stash of MM though, congrats on that lol !! I remember Pactra and Floquil going, it seems like anything you really like gets screwed over. But two years ago I started a campaign for myself experimenting with acrylics and I've got them shooting pretty decent now, even craft paints. They usually need clear coating except for Tamiya gloss though. If you want an old classic car finish, they generally weren't clear coated. MM enamel to me is the closest to the Pactra line I used to use on those old stock classics era cars.... Have to wait and see how the automotive MM line shakes out. But at least I know I can get a pretty decent finish from acrylics if need be. It's taken me this long to really get them going down nice out of my Badger 200 and Paasche H. Not so much a fan with double action fwiw ( maybe it's just me).

This is the first I've heard of MM and the car line thinning out ( enamels I mean). But my local hobby store told me back in Sept or so the military line was going, when the rack was empty that would be it. Acrylics were staying as is. Over in Fine Scale Modeler forums the military builders have been aware of this and some have already transitioned over to Humbrol enamels. Humbrol they say, seems to be increasing the enamel line. Best I can tell you.

OK thanks for this. Back to the OP topic lol !

Thanks. FWIW no 37 four door.