Dave G.

Rustoleum clear gloss lacquer decanted: I used hardware store lacquer thinner but it needed retarder,way too fast drying and went dull.Course it buffed up anyway but a bunch of added work that is not required when shooting from the can.... Now I do use Minwax clear lacquer in quarts for my wood working and that thins and sprays fine with the same thinner even in an airbrush.. Not sure how it would fare in the long haul on yellowing, it's fine up front though. Just sayin.

Just the clear lacquer gloss. It sprays better out of the can.

Ya X-22 put down right is pretty much wet look going on. But he wants spray cans, that was going to be my suggestion too.

I'm sure it will look fine, between the variables on the real ones and if you do any weathering, then adding counter colors and markings, whose to know the difference really .

Judging by Plowboys Chevy truck photo I'd say no it's not that close. Not honey enough but more champagne-ish gold. Zero Piants rendition is quite a ways from that Tamiya at any rate:

I don't know but Zero Paints lists it.

A good compromise is to fit one of your existing brushes with the accessory side mounted open top metal cup. Best of both worlds for about $12. I use one on my Badger 200 almost 100% of the time because thats my .25 nozzle brush used for fine mists or detail. But I use it my Paasche H for small jobs too. But then I still have the jars for big jobs like my wife's ceramics clear coating with varnish with H and medium nozzle. The Masters work ok after a little tuning up. Mostly that's polishing the needle. The tip O rings deteriorate quickly but bees wax makes a better seal anyway so that's no big deal. I think you will find that to be true of the Hubest as well.

Get yourself some Testors enamel.Tape the truck off, wipe down where you will paint with a little enamel thinner or mineral spirits. Give it a light scuff and wipe down again and shoot your paint. Even in 1/1 we never re-primed for two tone. And your base paint is white, so blues, red or yellow should go fine over it. It's probably baked enamel or powder coat on there fwiw. You can test a little corner someplace to be sure the solvents don't eat it but I doubt they will.

I definitely would use my touch up lvlp spray gun on a 1/8 scale model or one of these large ship models out there with 5' long hulls. I've used that on my wife's ceramics dioramas too. LVLP indicates low volume low pressure. It has a 1.0 needle installed so just short of my Paasche H with large needle. Has paint flow and air adjustment . Here is the selling point for me in large scale though, the fan cap. Course there are a couple of airbrushes out there that are fan cap capable too. I have the compressor to feed spray guns though and that is a consideration when you start thinking spray guns. But lvlp is pretty air friendly anyway, especially in the small touch up guns. Just sayin.

Hey it was 60 years ago I shot my first Testors rattle can and 45 or so since the last ( actually I had switched mostly to Pactra by then) but can still recall that soft spray pattern going down and flowing out perfectly.

I'm with the Model Master Enamel suggestion if you can find it. Basically spray it on and that's that minus dust and stuff. But it shines right out of the can, two to three coats and you're done.. Only thing, good luck finding it anymore. I know the plain Testors rattle cans were always good in black too but I haven't kept up with them enough to suggest them at this point. Seems 72 C likes it though.

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I mix my own thinner for craft paints and some other acrylics as well, it works in most acrylics and craft paints spray the best I've seen with it. DecoArt tends to reject it though, so I do something different for that brand. It's 60/40 distilled water to 91 IPA then 6-8 drops of Liquitex retarder added to every 3oz of that blend. I've tried other internet solutions for thinner but this beat them all in my almost two years of experimenting with various acrylics. I've also done 70/30 water to alcohol, this can squeak by with some alcohol sensitive acrylics like Vallejo Model Air. Craft Smart takes the least thinner. Apple Barrel next. FolkArt the most thinner. Martha Steward acrylics thin with this thinner. A brand named Color Tek which is high pigment paints thins with it eventually, the paint is thick though. Model Master acryl sprays better with this than with their own Aztek thinner fwiw. Tamiya flats spray with it but gloss hazes, goes on fine but dries with a haze, better off with lacquer thinner with Tamiya acrylic gloss. The problem now with covid around though is finding 91 ipa. I'm going to experiment eventually with denatured alcohol but I already suspect it will spray like windshield washer solvent, which works but not as well as ipa imo. You can also use the 70ipa if you find that, just adjust the water ratio accordingly. Reverse the roll lol, 60 alcohol to 40 water. Finally, while I tweak this to my liking, I have to give the basic idea /credit to Bobby Waldron professional model builder.

Pretty much all I use on interiors, floors etc. Even bodies quite a bit but clear coat required and primer too. There is a heck of a bunch of base colors to choose from and blend from there. AppleBarrel and FolkArt paints are fine. Make up the right thinner, thin the paint right and it's not tricky to spray at all even against popular belief. So thats my take.

Ya to me ca is the way to go, I prefer thick formula. Right now I'm trying some that says Gel Maximum strength. It's true that it seems strong enough, the gel is questionable, it seems more like just thick to me . I've had gel for arrow knocks and fletching vanes before that was really gel and very strong. But this stuff works, it's a bit slow to kick but holds well. It's a Crazy Glue brand here in the States, comes two small tubes in a blister pack. I prefer small tubes like that and use one completely up and not toss so much when it goes bad because I didn't go through it fast enough. Now for my ca glue finishes on Christmas ornament wood turnings, there I prefer thin and in a bigger container. Just sayin. I also use ca glue in fly tying sometimes.

People also get the Molotow refills and take the chrome from there to airbrush it. Just sayin.

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I actually used to use a FolkArt craft paint for a while and it turned out pretty decent. That was when I didn't use Metalizer paints ( lacquer based). But I've switched to Molotow and I'm just gonna hang out with that.. Years ago ( 1960's ) I used Testors enamels, you aren't missing a whole lot there from what I can remember but it's what we had back then.

I just use plain old Testors orange tube, always have. Or super glue, the gel version or at least the thick. I also like thick formula Kiss super glue ( what the ladies use on their nails). I've also always painted body parts unassembled, it just goes all the way back to my childhood in around 1960. Nice paint congrats !!

Good news ! The Tamiya should be fine, could be a slightly different tone than Classic White ( it's a whiter white).

Most of my models lately with a few exceptions have been color coated with acrylic paints, even craft paints then clear coated with either lacquer or Tamiya X-22 clear gloss or Tamiya clear colors as a more custom look. The last model painted with enamel was a year ago in MM Chrome Yellow gloss and gloss Classic Black which both went on beautiful, no need to clear coat. But ya, I'd say that's a bad bottle of paint.

There's no extra magic going on in a Badger lol. If you get a good finish and like using it is all that matters. Ya know when I shot 1/1 my main two guns were Devilbiss. Then I had two knock off guns, one of the Devilbiss and the other of a Binks. They all shot great.

IDK, it was just a suggestion I've used with other paints.