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Dave G.

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Everything posted by Dave G.

  1. Try taklon brushes for acrylics and see what you think. I like that for acrylic paint.
  2. I'm a tree shooter too for the most part, certainly for small parts that are all one color . The body and or fenders/hood etc are removed of course. That said, some things need a brush, it really helps a lot to thin the paint a little to both keep film thickness down and brush strokes out.
  3. I have two Minicraft Model A roadsters in 1/16, one unopened and the other was too but now am building on it.. Someplace out in the world is the sedan, that I want lol ! I paid $60 each for these because they were sealed boxes and buy it now, never opened but they are around cheaper than that. I haven't checked lately on the sedan. They also make a Model A delivery panel in 1/16 fwiw. Another I'd like to land is the 28 Lincoln touring car. I'd like the 1/24 Parckard too, you know some day assuming I last that long lol !.
  4. For me 1/16 is overgrown 1/24. In both those sizes I like the classics era cars. I'm doing up a 1/16 Minicraft Model A roadster now actually. I have a 1/16 Entex Mercer all painted and ready to assemble for a year now, just haven't gotten back to it. Pretty much you're stuck with building these stock. In 1/24 the Deusenbergs , the Packards and Cadillacs are decent sized. Minicraft has a few construction things I think they could have avoided but they turn out nice, just take your time. The Entex Mercer has many details but that paint with stripes is quite the task. Back in the day I built the 1/8 Jag, Big T and Big Deuce. Of those my favorite was the Duece. But that was back in the 1960's, I couldn't begin to tell you of the details, plus to find a kit today you discover they are all expensive . The Entex and Minicraft kits are around and the 1/24 Connoiseur Classic series Monogram kits are quite decent if you like old classic/antique era cars.
  5. Man that green is dead on on the Ford, I owned a 390 powered 67 in that same green, beautiful car till the frame rotted out... Beautiful work right there on your model though, looks like it could be driven away.
  6. I can only give a testimony to the merits of regular Badger Stynylrez primers, which I have used exclusively now for going on three years. They've been excellent for me. I can shoot them as is or thin a little bit, goes on well, levels well and lets details show well. And it sticks, it's sandable , good opacity and doesn't stink. That's enough attributes to convince me to stock them.............
  7. Wow that really shows it, the 35 fenders are more trim looking. Really a nice looking car compared to the 36 (36 is nice in it's own right but there is a difference).
  8. I have pics Tamiya clear over craft paint somewhat polished. Then clear red with a touch of blue and a Mustang clear blue, both over rose gold base coat and not polished. Pretty wet looking and all the clears behave the same. Here's the gig, getting them up on here, they're on my phone which has a really decent camera though. Never put a file up here. But I can tell you it sprays great, the wetter as you go the better. And Tamiya suggest LT if you want the shine and harder finish. Some guys like their acrylic thinner, never tried it. I hit on this and never bothered.
  9. Yes. I've settles on Tamiya acrylic thinned with lacquer thinner for the most part. Glad I discovered it. If you want spray cans someone else can answer that.
  10. What about a Mobeus 55 Chrysler doner, some of those parts should be closer than from a Ford I would think ? Course just me but I'd rather build the Cjhrysler lol.
  11. Don't know. But someplace I was thinking I saw 35 parts or kit in resin. I was looking too lol. But that was some time ago and the memory vague. I was about 5 yo when my dad had me sit on his lap and steer his 35 Ford sedan. Imagine doing that today ? They would put both of us in jail.
  12. Fine Scale Modeler Magazine forums has many scale modeling forums including airplanes . Some dedicated folks there, top notch modelers of aircraft. That's ok, I have a hankering to build a ship after I clean up a few half done cars. Presently working on a Minicraft 1/16 scale Model A.
  13. I use the Testors on a lot of different things/materials you might think wouldn't stick.
  14. Have you looked there to see if there is actually any in stock since the so called pandemic hit ?
  15. I've done that, it's no more super than just using alcohol from what I can tell. But the greater portion was the Windex, maybe the other way around might be better. It's been about impossible to find 91 these days too. Now and then 70 shows up, I have more of that on hand now than 91 and been using it for cleaning. I also adjusted my universal thinner to accommodate the 70.
  16. AMT 32 wheels are useless if you're building stock but the AMT 34 wheels if you found some are much more accurate on the 32. Someone on the board might have those kicking around. I can live with the other faults but the wheels are plain wrong. Even back when I was a kid building these cars around 1960ish I knew they didn't look right. That's just a fwiw.
  17. The bottom line is if you're happy with the look yourself. Or vs if you're trying to build to someone else's standards or to enter contests etc.. If the latter or you don't like the look yourself then don't use it. Don't listen to me I use it on old antique cars etc, sometimes. On the other hand I like the 1/16 scale kits and often those include wiring material. I've got a Minicraft Model A roadster coming presently, not sure if that one has wires but obviously in 1/16 sewing thread won't work.... So ya there is that too.
  18. Course some of it too is how it looks in person as opposed to in photos. When you zoom in on the engine the wires magnify in photos.
  19. I use sewing thread in 1/25 but really it's too thin. Looks good anyway as opposed to no wires IMO. That's standard thread, there is probably thicker stuff. It's more than the thickness though, it's the weave too. But I don't care, it really picks a model up to have wires on the engine. For me it's the suggestive nature of it anyway. On the other hand I've seen models here where maybe the wires are scale but they sure don't look it, just too thick, on a real car they would be the size of your thumb !. You also can paint the sewing thread which gives them more fullness. I don't generally do brake lines but that and old car throttle linkage goes well with copper wire from telephone cable. I had a bundle of it here that seems to have gone away ( wife is suspect lol) that a telephone guy left behind at a construction site years ago, the scraps left over. Course brake lines aren't copper so you need to paint them. I got a lot of mileage out of that wire with or without insulation for various applications. It's single strand or was back when I got it.
  20. Ya I like the stance of this T, I like everything about it except the $2800 crank price lol !!! I
  21. I felt right at home looking at it, as I said ticked all my boxes at least in a T. I watched another vid of a T with 400hp and it had plenty of snap to get me in trouble lol. But hp is subjective in terms of desire. The nice thing about this T is he seems to have gotten that power to hook up with the pavement. T's only weigh in the teens, the one I posted is 1700lb. To my eye it's just proportioned great, nice car.
  22. Modern day t bucket. This ticks the boxes for me except maybe a bit much engine in terms of hp:
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