Dave G.

It's nice to buy with assurance even if it costs a few bucks more ! I hate junk tools.

Looks great Sam ! Heck I'd get the kit just for the Y block Ford.

Sam that rod is Exactly what I meant in my earlier post ! It came out awesome. Congrats !

You also can build a really nice low chrome rod too. Nice filler work, nice paint, Molotow spray with an airbrush relevant chrome or polished aluminum as the case may be for just a few items. A deliberately low chrome rod but nice, never was a fan of a bunch of chome anyway, except the 50's factory cars.. To that theory comes opposing kickers. Kicker #1. I'd still prefer the Monogram. Kicker #2. The Lindberg sells cheaper.

Just fwiw, I've never built a Monogram model with seriously bad fitting parts. I built the Monogram original release of the Big T back in 1963, I was 13yo and I don't recall any issues getting it together, nor the Big Deuce a couple of years later. But given a choice of just one to build today and as much as I like the stance on the Big T, I'd save the extra money up for the Deuce personally, just would love to see a Firedome hemi available to put in it. Lindberg to me is not in the same class, ever. But that could just be my impression. I've never built the Lindberg T but I prefer the Monogram anyway. Then lately there is the issue we've seen here of gray chrome parts trees in the Lindberg, that is to say they didn't get plated.

Did you get the H working ?

Micro Mark sells the carousel stand of high speed steel ( should be better than carbon steel) bits with clear dome cover for $30 . They also sell the tubes of 6 replacement bits in each size for $7 or so. I was at their site yesterday looking for no.76 bits and they had them. I trust them to sell decent quality tools and they claim these are sharp precision bits made from HSS. That's important because there are many cheap knock offs that aren't precision nor sharp and made from plain carbon steel.

It only took me several decades to figure out because 1/1 is painted on it's wheels a plastic model doesn't have to sit there on a tray or cardboard or whatever. It doesn't weigh 3-4k but can be picked up and shot at any angle. Plus the air pressure doesn't kick BLAH_BLAH_BLAH_BLAH up into the paint. We really are creatures of habit.

It's a rough 1/32 scale. 16ft3" divided by 32 is 6-3/32" so pretty close.

Ya I think that potential exists. But I don't really spray vertical on models. It's a little plastic body, I take a plastic cup with a loop of tape on the bottom and shove that up against the underside of the roof inside the car. Now I can hold the body at any angle I want to shoot at, obviously preferably down onto it. That's my latest method, could be different tomorrow.

Mike it's pretty hard to screw that stuff up ( humid warm weather might blush it when spraying). It's thin but not really runny. 4 coats is about right. Me being me I'd probably polish that without sanding, the finish looks great at least from here 1000 miles from your home more or less ! No idea if the color is what you had in mind but it came out nice.

Hopefully you are well supplied with Tamiya over there, here in the US the supply has diminished for whatever reason. The Omega is quiet. The only real down side is it runs continuously and bleeds air when max pressure is reached vs shutting down. It uses basically a refrigerator compressor, so it's quiet minus the air bleed function. But even bleeding air it's only in the 40db range or so. And really that's about all I know about it except it too has a 1 liter tank. A tank is a good thing. Others can take it from there.

Ya I know. I doubt they will be designated X and XF though.

What ever works for ya. You certainly know your situation and locale better than I do. But I wouldn't spray that Rustoleum in the house either, it stinks but the stink doesn't hang on too bad. The can is throwing me, mine was black.

Tamiya gloss colors don't even really need clear coat. You can clear it if you want but the colors buff up like gloss lacquer anyway. You have a choice of thinners, Tamiya acrylic thinner, pure alcohol or lacquer thinner. But the X-22 clear I mentioned is Tamiya gloss clear: you need to thin it as you need to thin the paints as well. The clear will go over most paints to include their own colors. I also use Tamiya clear over craft paints or over Model Master acrylic paints fwiw.

Sounds like it's time for a spray booth of some sort. Or a vent fan in the basement maybe. So you can paint in the winter or lousy weather. I've been painting in the kitchen for the last few years, half the time into the kitchen trash lol ! In fact that's where I shot the 31 Ford fenders I posted up in the thread here a couple weeks back.

I agree with Mike but you need to know the product. There is acrylic lacquer that is fully solvent paint like the automotive grade lacquers that the stink will about blow your head off. But then today there are hybrid lacquers, water friendly etc. Tamiya Acrylic is really a hybrid Acrylic/lacquer, alcohol based. Alcohol, water or lacquer thinner clean up. Weird stuff that produces an awesome finish in the right hands. I thin it with straight denatured alcohol, very low odor. Their X-22 clear acrylic is quite good too.

Stynylrez primer is your answer for primer if you can get it over there. It sets up quickly, respray within an hour or so and sticks about like most solvent primers. Just mix it up well in the bottle, ready to spray product. It's a poly acrylic primer, basically no odor. Vallejo primer is similar but more fussy, sprays well but less sandable and requires 24 hour cure time but it's an option if you can't find the Styn.

If that's the stuff I used a while ago it works fine as clear coat. It stinks to the high heavens, worse than nitro lacquer if it's the same stuff I had. Rustoleum spray lacquer works well though, which ever iteration .

In a word "test".

At the web site it says if you want to clean the nozzle to use mineral spirits. This would indicate to me there is a chance it might be enamel paint. But you're right, they don't give out the secret of what the stuff actually is. You might find that clear coating makes the color shift less lively. You may need more acute angle changes when viewing to pick up the shift. Maybe.

Testors sells enamel reducer/thinner, comes in a red can and says enamel right on the can. I haven't used it since the early 1970's but they still sell it.

?

Indeed, that stuff was all coming in to mainline as I was getting out of racing. Be good to know the era being modeled here in the thread.

A lot of people mounted with rear distributor engines mounted Accel Super Coils on the firewall fwiw. Basically a yellow box looking thing. When I drag raced I used the Accel replacement coil mounted on the fender well ( Ford FE engine) which had quite a bit more than stock spark in itself, between that and Yellow Jacket wires, my own internally modified distributor and ignition was never my problem. I used the Accel cap and rotor too which were tan colored. The Accel system I'm sure would fire a street/strip blown small block.