Dave G.

That gold in terms of tone on the GT40 above ( which is turning out very nice) would probably be fairly close to the Oldsmobile gold but the Olds never had metal flake finish. It was a very fine metallic and a natural non clear coated finish as well..

I'd be aiming for lower viscosity "and or" more flow out. Then air pressure. But I don't use Createx, so far be it from me without getting hands on to say how that is accomplished with Createx. I will say, I'm one to think and work outside the box sometimes.

My 1/16 Model A fenders with Tamiya black acrylic just out of the dehydrator after shooting the black. So this is straight from the airbrush, no polishing no anything but taking a picture. It's over Stynylrez black primer, shot 30 minutes before the black went on, that's the dark grey/black between the fenders. Shot them dried them everything all in took less than an hour. Just fwiw. This photo is considerably down graded from compression for email as well. The fenders are not wet, that's dry black paint, no clear coat, not polished..

Exciting ! Let us know how it goes.

MCW lacquer will knock your head off if you aren't prepared to shoot lacquer. It smells just like the stuff I sprayed in 1/1 back in the 70's and 80's. You really need a respirator or at least an R rated mask good for chemical/solvent particulates but 4 coats looks great, ready to buff up in a day or two with no clear coat. Being acrylic lacquer ( solvent based) it's a harder surface than nitro lacquer or Tamiya acrylic to buff. FWIW. On a nice day you could shoot it outdoors though. I see the Createx paints as something good for custom car builds, maybe a hot rod but not factory stock paint. And factory stock metallics are very hard to custom blend yourself. I was very close on my own blend of the solid Washington Blue, the MCW I got is dead on but actually either would work on an overall paint job for the Model A. But that's not the case with metallic paints unless you have the actually blending formula to mix from and the right metallic flakes in that portion of the blend color.............. I shot 1/1 for 30 years and metallic paints even then could be hard to panel blend. You get a different reflection of light from different angles if the formula is off just a little bit. In fact even a little too much thinner could have the metallic sheen appear silvery in golds. As base coat clear coat systems came in and ultimately took over, then color match reading software, this became much easier and a kid right out of voc school could become a good color match expert in a body/paint shop with mixing equipment.. Kids are great with computers and the mixer/blending is computerized. No more hand timing of tints from mechanical mixing machines. From what I understand, Mike at MCW has acquired the computerized equipment. His blends should be exact matches. Not sure how Scale Finishes does theirs. We know they are using acrylic enamel. I saw where MCW would soon be offering alcyd enamel and has it but not up on the site yet. Why am I saying all this ? I don't know just gabby today.

Nah, one thing at a time. Stick some thinner in there and try that first, might be fine.

Ya 4012 thinner, 4030 additive, then they have 4020 anti blush you can use up to 25% for humid weather conditions. But the 4012 is the main thing.

People do use it, it sprays pretty easy and polishes up pretty easy. If you don't bury the car in it it can polish up to a convincing factory shine. But I've only done it in tests not on a whole model. For that I tend to use Tamiya clear acrylic. Or sometimes lacquer but you really need to be set up for lacquer..

Well the 4030 is not clear coat as I understand it, it's an additive to the paint. You can clear coat with any number of products and have it just polished up so as it doesn't look like heavy clear coat, it can look pretty much like polished paint if done right. It's a matter of practice and polishing to the level you want it at.

It's been warm here too but dry at least. One day here was 72 or so, crazy for the east coat of New England in Nov........ You won't have thinning issues, the 4030 clear has some flow advantage though and you can use it more liberally than their thinner. But plenty of people shoot this stuff without that too it seems.. Seems to me if someone wants to seriously dive into the Createx line, might just as well follow their video recommendations.

My Washington Blue showed up today from MCW ( probably was at PO Sat but We didn't make it there). Looks really right, hope to shoot a little test patch tomorrow but I want to keep all I can of the 1oz mix because this is a 1/16 body and hood (Model A) it's going on. It looks like it's dead on though. OP, how are you making out with the air etc ?

?

Just stay with it you'll get it working ( spraying right).

Ya I have an 8 gal portable I use with LVLP guns, nail guns etc, air it up ahead of time for airbrushing or fill my portable tank I also have, and silent painting either way. I'll paint out in the kitchen at 6am before the ladies are even stirring and not bother them. And I get all the air flow I could ever want. Same for you imagine.

Try thinning the paint some more to where it will shoot at 20-22 psi. Your compressor might keep up there. Try it with plain water in the airbrush first if need be. If that doesn't work try a #3 tip with it's smaller air cap, it's really all you need for models anyway. You need to solve this problem because even if you go OEM mix for your paint job you need steady air flow. Usually with an H though one of the above will do it with a tankless comp. And do understand the problem is the compressor not the airbrush. It's just many airbrushes have restricted airflow to something on the order of 25psi, the H will flow 50 if you set it there and the comp can't keep up. No comment on the paint, it's pretty though. Oh and you might as well go on to clear coating it, you need to experience that anyway. I do tests like this all the time lol !! Just so I know.

LOL on the stinky paint ! But ya, I get it. I use both.

When I shot solvent paint exclusively I did the same as I always did in 1/1, after shooting lacquer thinner through the brush/gun, I then put a little LT in the jar/cup, unscrewed the tip and dropped it in the thinner for storage till next use. Never had a clog in 1/1 or the Badger 200. Like you, maybe once a year I cleaned the needle or when I wanted to change sizes. Acrylic takes more cleaning and I've found for day to day cleaning warm water and a little dish soap followed by alcohol does better than LT alone. But eventually the residue builds up, maybe in a month or two I remove the nozzle for soaking. To soak, LT then works best in an over night soak or acetone second. Acrylic is really a different animal to clean, takes many more flushings and back flushing and some rubbing with an alcohol soaked Q tip in the wings of the air cap and edges of external pieces.. Least that's my experience. When I do pull the needle there will be harder crust on there with acrylic than solvent paints that I steel wool off with 000... Then I lightly bees wax the needle. Acrylic doesn't dissolve like solvent paint residue. It doesn't residue like solvent paint either, it crusts up. But it's all workable once you come to understand the stuff.

Ya, I already shot the cream wheels or I'd have ordered that as well. But nothing prompted the order failed on the single bottle of Washington Blue, they list this color though. I got confirmation thanking me for the order and they would let me know when it ships. Shipping $10.50 but I wasn't surprised. Edit: the order has shipped

Back on the course with the thread ! Let us know how it goes. You're looking for Auto-Air I assume ?

I think it's 1 oz pre mixed ready to spray. And I think you may need to call them about that color or email. I mentioned that in my other post, I don't think they list the color but that doesn't mean they won't mix it. In the upper video he mentions contacting them if you need a color match.

I have Washington Blue lacquer coming for my 1/16 Model A roadster body and hood. From MCW that is. The fenders though will be black Tamiya acrylic, I've already done the workup for them and it will pass fine.. The wheel paint I mixed up myself and they're already shot. I forget the name of that color off hand but it's a cream/yellow..

I'm right behind you at 70. The other day I shut my car off, took my glasses off and put them down. Temporarily got confused to grab my mask or the keys, wait a minute what keys ? Oh ya the ones in the ignition. This used to happen in one fell swoop, now it's something that takes thought. Oh boy ! Let me throw another bone in the works: Contact MCW via email or phone call and see if they will mix your color, if so order lacquer. They don't list it but that doesn't mean they won't mix it ( what they do is add to their list as people request a mix). And it's $7.50 a bottle for acrylic lacquer which is what your car was painted in originally.. Maybe this will help: Also here:

I wouldn't go by everyone elses rendition or what most seem to seek at least here of a clear finish that you see here often. Most are after that wet look that back in the 1960's and 1970's we didn't know could even exist yet . Yet many modelers seem to demand just that. I mean paint dried lol !! It didn't still look wet. Even polished to arguably some very rich depth it still didn't look wet. But with practice you can shoot clear and polish to your liking, you don't have to seek that wet look even from clear. GM didn't spend time polishing factory paint. A dealer might, owners might have, but really the acrylic lacquer used on cars at GM wasn't that glossy without some post factory help. A decent clear job doesn't have to look buried in clear and wet looking. It's about thinning, application and polishing. And you don't need or even want 2K clear to get what you're after. It can be done with lacquer, Pledge/Future or Tamiya X-22. And you need to be willing to polish to the desired level. And you don't need Scale Finishes base coat to get started practicing this.

I use many different paints and brands and types these days. Over the years I probably shot enamels most because of the old classic cars I like to build. I mix many of my own solid colors, these days I use acrylics as well as enamel. sometimes lacquer or nail polish..Scale finishes came up for me for a 49 Ford wine and 49-50 Ford teal I didn't think I could get right. But I don't think I want those in acrylic enamel now. Last I knew they were mixing lacquer ( my bad there). Your gold should be fine though for that era car. Heck I might even have shot one that color in 1/1 in acrylic enamel back in the day. I sure used enough of it.

All base coats I've ever dealt with even in 1/1 have been flat ( little to no shine), they level real well too. The clear is the gloss or produces the gloss.. Acrylic enamel top coat will be glossy and polished up will look much like acrylic lacquer. They have obviously changed their formulations. I shot tons of acrylic enamel in 1/1 but can say never have on a model. I shot enamels of various sorts for 30 years in 1/1. You've got my curiosity up now, I wasn't expecting this.