Dave G.

AMT 32 wheels are useless if you're building stock but the AMT 34 wheels if you found some are much more accurate on the 32. Someone on the board might have those kicking around. I can live with the other faults but the wheels are plain wrong. Even back when I was a kid building these cars around 1960ish I knew they didn't look right. That's just a fwiw.

The bottom line is if you're happy with the look yourself. Or vs if you're trying to build to someone else's standards or to enter contests etc.. If the latter or you don't like the look yourself then don't use it. Don't listen to me I use it on old antique cars etc, sometimes. On the other hand I like the 1/16 scale kits and often those include wiring material. I've got a Minicraft Model A roadster coming presently, not sure if that one has wires but obviously in 1/16 sewing thread won't work.... So ya there is that too.

Course some of it too is how it looks in person as opposed to in photos. When you zoom in on the engine the wires magnify in photos.

I use sewing thread in 1/25 but really it's too thin. Looks good anyway as opposed to no wires IMO. That's standard thread, there is probably thicker stuff. It's more than the thickness though, it's the weave too. But I don't care, it really picks a model up to have wires on the engine. For me it's the suggestive nature of it anyway. On the other hand I've seen models here where maybe the wires are scale but they sure don't look it, just too thick, on a real car they would be the size of your thumb !. You also can paint the sewing thread which gives them more fullness. I don't generally do brake lines but that and old car throttle linkage goes well with copper wire from telephone cable. I had a bundle of it here that seems to have gone away ( wife is suspect lol) that a telephone guy left behind at a construction site years ago, the scraps left over. Course brake lines aren't copper so you need to paint them. I got a lot of mileage out of that wire with or without insulation for various applications. It's single strand or was back when I got it.

? True.

Ya I like the stance of this T, I like everything about it except the $2800 crank price lol !!! I

I felt right at home looking at it, as I said ticked all my boxes at least in a T. I watched another vid of a T with 400hp and it had plenty of snap to get me in trouble lol. But hp is subjective in terms of desire. The nice thing about this T is he seems to have gotten that power to hook up with the pavement. T's only weigh in the teens, the one I posted is 1700lb. To my eye it's just proportioned great, nice car.

Modern day t bucket. This ticks the boxes for me except maybe a bit much engine in terms of hp:

Ok.

It works in most acrylics, just mix some up and let it sit covered for 4-5 minutes, if it's a paint that will react it will get stringy, turn to glue or else separated never to go back together. DecoArt for instance is the only craft paint so far that reacted once and I use several brands of craft paint. Thus far no acrylic model paint has been an issue in these ratios of alcohol. Tamiya gloss will work but you will get better gloss from lacquer thinner with that paint. The flats are ok. Model Master acrylic shoots exceptionally nice with it, you're gonna like it just be sure to prime first. You should always prime first with acrylics, they bite primer great and plastic terrible lol ( no, I mean literally terrible) !! Just trust that the blend works better than water ( I've spent two years playing with different means of thinning acrylics conducting spray tests, drying, scratch tests, water alone is rarely the answer), it sprays more like solvent paint with the alcohol in there is best I can tell you. The basic formula came from Bobby Waldron at Genesis Models fwiw. I'm in agreement with his comment that this is pretty universal thinner.

Well we're making a thinner blend for airbrushing acrylics. I can't speak for the others but mine needs 30-32% actual or true alcohol content. So the distilled water gets adjusted accordingly to that, the real alcohol content in the blend is around 30-32% in my case. You need to understand that all the numbers you mentioned, the other part of that to make up 100% in your bottle is already water. That's all that is in there. So Then, to every 3 oz of thinner I make up I add x amount of Liquitex retarder according to season. And of course there is fudge room to mess with. For the acrylics I use I find this nearly perfect. A few guys copied it and love it. One tried to cheat the retarder, then cheat the brand of retarder and it totally flopped for him. Once he got it all straight in his head he was golden.

Ace beat me to the answer. Actually I use 91% in my home brew thinner for acrylics. Since covid I've only been able to get 70% locally so I adjusted the water in the home brew to 20% less which is more than close enough. Still use the same amount of Liquitex retarder to control tip dry and aid flow out. . I've saved my 91 for cleaning but find that 70 cleans just about as well.

Forget ? I didn't know lol !!! That doesn't sound promising at all. No wonder I never got a return email from them about the 56 Buick. They probably figured I was nuts, might be right too.

I like the Oldsmobiles too in those years. Since I was a kid for whatever reason the 56 Buick just was something I'd like to have modeled and Mobius would do it up right, I'd take a 55 or 57 if that's all there was... I built the 58 that was around back in the day ( 1960 or so I imagine), I think a couple of them actually, the first being the first car I tried to paint and not so successfully lol. Never cared for the 58 I' might add.

Might sound stupid to most but they did a great job on the 56 Chrysler, I want to see a 56 Buick come out.

Store the high pigment colors and primer upside down. This way solidswhen turned back upright are to the top of the can and aren't the first thing into the tube when shaken up and giving that first shot of paint. And heat your cans up in hot water to where when shaken the temp equalizes warm to the touch. It might take a few warmings and shakings. You just want the can warm not hot but this will help in mixing the paint and atomization too. Course the thread is about decanting but you have those answers already.

Rustoleum clear gloss lacquer decanted: I used hardware store lacquer thinner but it needed retarder,way too fast drying and went dull.Course it buffed up anyway but a bunch of added work that is not required when shooting from the can.... Now I do use Minwax clear lacquer in quarts for my wood working and that thins and sprays fine with the same thinner even in an airbrush.. Not sure how it would fare in the long haul on yellowing, it's fine up front though. Just sayin.

Just the clear lacquer gloss. It sprays better out of the can.

Ya X-22 put down right is pretty much wet look going on. But he wants spray cans, that was going to be my suggestion too.

I'm sure it will look fine, between the variables on the real ones and if you do any weathering, then adding counter colors and markings, whose to know the difference really .

Judging by Plowboys Chevy truck photo I'd say no it's not that close. Not honey enough but more champagne-ish gold. Zero Piants rendition is quite a ways from that Tamiya at any rate:

I don't know but Zero Paints lists it.

A good compromise is to fit one of your existing brushes with the accessory side mounted open top metal cup. Best of both worlds for about $12. I use one on my Badger 200 almost 100% of the time because thats my .25 nozzle brush used for fine mists or detail. But I use it my Paasche H for small jobs too. But then I still have the jars for big jobs like my wife's ceramics clear coating with varnish with H and medium nozzle. The Masters work ok after a little tuning up. Mostly that's polishing the needle. The tip O rings deteriorate quickly but bees wax makes a better seal anyway so that's no big deal. I think you will find that to be true of the Hubest as well.

Get yourself some Testors enamel.Tape the truck off, wipe down where you will paint with a little enamel thinner or mineral spirits. Give it a light scuff and wipe down again and shoot your paint. Even in 1/1 we never re-primed for two tone. And your base paint is white, so blues, red or yellow should go fine over it. It's probably baked enamel or powder coat on there fwiw. You can test a little corner someplace to be sure the solvents don't eat it but I doubt they will.