Dave G.

Yes. I'm not a fan of the dual needle function. I ordered in what I thought to be just a straight #1 needle set but it's the same. Oh well. In my case I have the Badger 200 anyway and the fine needle on that is .25 and you literally swap out the needle. The atomization is just a very fine mist, yet it can still be opened up to get a wet coat down.. I use that combo most over the H and fine needle. I'm saying it again but to me the honey tip on the H is the 3. But that's just an opinion that may or may not be true for someone else. And I'm not knocking the H at all but I've shot that 200 for 45 years and bought the H a few years ago to back that up and to shoot varnish coats and stuff. If all I had or ever knew was the H I could get along fine with it.

Two light mist coats and you're done. But if there is any reaction ( probably not) it will more likely be over the enamel than the acrylic, assuming all is well dried.

I used to do the same as 64 C and leave a gap to that flange to center the tip in the air stream. But these days I don't pay too much attention to it honestly. As to flow, I go for the flow I want to see lol !!! I do open up more in the last coat though. But to be fair I more use my Badger 200 than the H for clear lacquer, not that it matters all that much really. I have used the H and the fine needle but prefer the atomization of my 200. In the end if the paint flows right it actually doesn't matter, except with a side cup I can get my 200 down to 14 psi with the fine tip for small parts and or thin coats. For a body the 200 and medium needle or the H and 3 will produce about the same result. I would also skip the VL for now. Really get to know the ways of one brush first. The VL is a good brush but I agree that at this point it will add another level of confusion. Course that doesn't mean you shouldn't mess around with it and see if you even like it's action, spray a spoon or something. I have a double action brush I mostly just avoid lol !!! And I shot 1/1 for 30 years.

The #3 tip on the H is the honey zone imo and most compressors will keep up with it. The number 5 can start spitting if your compressor won't flow enough ( just watch the working pressure on your gauge as you do a test shoot), especially tankless compressors may not keep up with that #5 tip, the pressure drops out and next thing you're shooting gubers. I use an 8 gal portable compressor anyway but non the less pretty much never have seen the need to move to the #5 tip except to try it out, course that depends too how you thin your paint. I've shot enamel even on my Badger with .25 needle, just thin it 1/1. Sprays fine, beautiful really. Non the less with the H, imo, the #3 needle is the sweet one that does most things right. Still, I can understand using the #1 for thin lacquer and for washes too. Or the #5 for something thick. Mr Leveling thinner, which is lacquer thinner, has retarder in it fwiw. A lot of people use it and like it too.

Ya I know it is , it was Monty who asked that question fwiw. Not me anyway.

Lookin good !! Was just concerned about masking, acrylics really need that primer under them is why I asked.

Looks like it went on great. Please tell us you primed first. Looks nice ! How did you like the airbrush ?

Well gee. ?

I wouldn't say a pancake compressor is not real. But from the pancake you will need a 1/4" to Badger adapter if you use a Badger hose. Badger has a dedicated thread of their own. Paasche is another brand who does that as well and different from Badger. Course those are the two brands I use most lol. I adapted both to 1/4" quick disconnects for my 8 gal portable compressor. I bought them through Amazon years ago but right now Amazon has delayed shipping on many items. Just sayin.

Paasche Talon offers an additional fan cap as well ( seems to me the cap and nozzle combo is $10 or so). It's used with the .66 needle but it's double action so you don't have to pull back all the way if you want less paint. I believe the pattern is around 3".

Yes I started to post on Paasche's ring method of identifying the tips and needles yesterday and must have left the page without submitting it. Good info !!!

The H is fine especially on model cars, several guys here who use that exclusively. I have that and my trust very old Badger 200 I use. Either will paint a car body just fine and much more.

Paasche offers a 3" pattern fan cap for their Talon airbrushes ( works with .66 needle).

You can get great finishes with an H or 350 as well. But I gotta tell you if you buy the H definitely get the air tank. The H has unrestricted air flow, the more you crank the pressure the more it will flow which is why it's great with enamels. But to do that you need a good volume of air supply. A pulsating piddle of air won't work beyond maybe the small needle set.

Yes, the solvents in Krylon can swell the sanding scratches in styrene plastic. It's better to prime. I don't believe for a minute it's the 800 grit paper alone but I don't use paper on my models anymore for overall sanding before paint. I either use scuff pads or steel wool. And I steel wool my primer coat with 000 or 0000 steel wool. Paper has a direct grit that digs in, pads or steel wool especially is a more scraping action. For me the results are great. Paper gouges and leaves microscopic ledges and ridges that the solvents expand. Just fwiw. But you probably would have won if you primed.

I watched one review where the guys impression was the Vallejo stainless steel made a better rendition of chrome than the chrome paint did. But he was impressed overall with the Vallejo metal colors as acrylics go ( his words not mine). I have no first hand experience, I've kind of settled on Molotow for my chrome paint till the magic bullet of chrome paints comes along.. Molotow is close to being that imo. It is touch sensitive but in a different way than Alclad, it doesn't flake off but goes dull when touched with any pressure and that area then looks silver. But it's highly reflective stuff otherwise.

Well if it is indeed enamel I suggest thinning more for one thing but it almost looks like you mixed lacquer thinner in MM acrylic as others mentioned..... Are you sure it's enamel and also enamel that hasn't gone bad ? I've shot this combo and Chrome yellow many times, it comes out looking like glass, you can see yourself in the finish. I shoot it over primer but it will go down to bare plastic too. I thin just short of 1/1, so like 55/45 paint to thinner. One more thing, this isn't the new green formula synthetic lacquer thinner that's out these days is it ? You need the good old fashioned stuff. What primer did you use ? Was it good and dry ?

Model Master solvent paints are gone as far I know ( Rustoleum stopped production last year). I'm intending to go with AK Interactive Xtreme metal paints as I need metal finish in place of MM Metalizer. Right now I'm ok. .

I built an original back in the day, top up painted it black with off white top. Put in working lights . No photos though. Oh well, thanks for the memories , nice build !!!!

Wow you guys really stirred up the memory banks, I built several of those starting in 58 till about 65. Then I was old enough to start branching off into classic cars and other kinds of builds. Built the Big T and Deuce also. Many more memories, too many to talk about.

That's a good price, didn't know they carried it. I checked NAPA, they have quality LT but forget the price, want to say it something like $14 or more a quart. So I just stick with Kleen Strip.

Ya you can cut enamels with lacquer thinner from the hardware store, just make sure it's not the new green label synthetic stuff. You might even like how it sprays better ( I get a tremendous gloss from that with Testors or MM enamels when airbrushed). It will also clean your airbrush great. For brushes I'd get mineral spirits and you can use that to spray with as well or to cut the paints just slightly for brush painting.. I actually do a blend of that and hardware store paint thinner sometimes and enamels go down nice with that from the airbrush too. I'm not a fan of hardware store paint thinning alone for spraying, the paint want to flow nice but will crater, looking almost like fish eyes but it won't do that if it's mixed 50-50 with mineral spirits and thin with that combo.. Now you get the nice flow out, a little fast tack up and no craters. Same with lacquer thinner as the thinner. I haven't bought the Testors thinner since the mid 1970's lol !!! You can get a full quart of these other products for about $9 each.

Sure, no problem.

I've been airbrushing since the mid 1970's but some of my nicest build in my mind were from rattle cans I used all through the 1960's. It's all in how you handle things lol !! You can probably expect an initial setback switching to airbrush but you will learn quick. A good place to start will be with your flats and semigloss paints, maybe some small parts as well. so interiors, floorpans, chassis, engines, good practice.

The 5.0 is a 302 Ford and used in many model Fords from 1968 on up. The only iteration different is the Boss 302, also 5.0 but with different heads and wider valve covers. Course there were various induction systems too.The so called or infamous version of the Windsor engine is a 351ci 5.7 engine. This has a taller block deck and very slightly wider head placement so a slightly wider intake. At 1/25 scale it would be hard to tell the difference between a 5.7 and 5.0. Then of course you have your late model engines, Mustang again has a 5.0 in these, different looking engine. The kit has the standard or longest running 5.0 in it as I recall ( the older version). The FE is a completely different animal.