Dave G.

It's a rough 1/32 scale. 16ft3" divided by 32 is 6-3/32" so pretty close.

Ya I think that potential exists. But I don't really spray vertical on models. It's a little plastic body, I take a plastic cup with a loop of tape on the bottom and shove that up against the underside of the roof inside the car. Now I can hold the body at any angle I want to shoot at, obviously preferably down onto it. That's my latest method, could be different tomorrow.

Mike it's pretty hard to screw that stuff up ( humid warm weather might blush it when spraying). It's thin but not really runny. 4 coats is about right. Me being me I'd probably polish that without sanding, the finish looks great at least from here 1000 miles from your home more or less ! No idea if the color is what you had in mind but it came out nice.

Hopefully you are well supplied with Tamiya over there, here in the US the supply has diminished for whatever reason. The Omega is quiet. The only real down side is it runs continuously and bleeds air when max pressure is reached vs shutting down. It uses basically a refrigerator compressor, so it's quiet minus the air bleed function. But even bleeding air it's only in the 40db range or so. And really that's about all I know about it except it too has a 1 liter tank. A tank is a good thing. Others can take it from there.

Ya I know. I doubt they will be designated X and XF though.

What ever works for ya. You certainly know your situation and locale better than I do. But I wouldn't spray that Rustoleum in the house either, it stinks but the stink doesn't hang on too bad. The can is throwing me, mine was black.

Tamiya gloss colors don't even really need clear coat. You can clear it if you want but the colors buff up like gloss lacquer anyway. You have a choice of thinners, Tamiya acrylic thinner, pure alcohol or lacquer thinner. But the X-22 clear I mentioned is Tamiya gloss clear: you need to thin it as you need to thin the paints as well. The clear will go over most paints to include their own colors. I also use Tamiya clear over craft paints or over Model Master acrylic paints fwiw.

Sounds like it's time for a spray booth of some sort. Or a vent fan in the basement maybe. So you can paint in the winter or lousy weather. I've been painting in the kitchen for the last few years, half the time into the kitchen trash lol ! In fact that's where I shot the 31 Ford fenders I posted up in the thread here a couple weeks back.

I agree with Mike but you need to know the product. There is acrylic lacquer that is fully solvent paint like the automotive grade lacquers that the stink will about blow your head off. But then today there are hybrid lacquers, water friendly etc. Tamiya Acrylic is really a hybrid Acrylic/lacquer, alcohol based. Alcohol, water or lacquer thinner clean up. Weird stuff that produces an awesome finish in the right hands. I thin it with straight denatured alcohol, very low odor. Their X-22 clear acrylic is quite good too.

Stynylrez primer is your answer for primer if you can get it over there. It sets up quickly, respray within an hour or so and sticks about like most solvent primers. Just mix it up well in the bottle, ready to spray product. It's a poly acrylic primer, basically no odor. Vallejo primer is similar but more fussy, sprays well but less sandable and requires 24 hour cure time but it's an option if you can't find the Styn.

If that's the stuff I used a while ago it works fine as clear coat. It stinks to the high heavens, worse than nitro lacquer if it's the same stuff I had. Rustoleum spray lacquer works well though, which ever iteration .

In a word "test".

At the web site it says if you want to clean the nozzle to use mineral spirits. This would indicate to me there is a chance it might be enamel paint. But you're right, they don't give out the secret of what the stuff actually is. You might find that clear coating makes the color shift less lively. You may need more acute angle changes when viewing to pick up the shift. Maybe.

Testors sells enamel reducer/thinner, comes in a red can and says enamel right on the can. I haven't used it since the early 1970's but they still sell it.

?

Indeed, that stuff was all coming in to mainline as I was getting out of racing. Be good to know the era being modeled here in the thread.

A lot of people mounted with rear distributor engines mounted Accel Super Coils on the firewall fwiw. Basically a yellow box looking thing. When I drag raced I used the Accel replacement coil mounted on the fender well ( Ford FE engine) which had quite a bit more than stock spark in itself, between that and Yellow Jacket wires, my own internally modified distributor and ignition was never my problem. I used the Accel cap and rotor too which were tan colored. The Accel system I'm sure would fire a street/strip blown small block.

Personally I'd look for a Minicraft sedan, it's all stock and 1/16 scale besides. Be careful you don't land a sedan delivery though, they made both. Just my opinion,.

Well you have plenty of paint, you could lightly scuff with the steel wool and see what you get. It undoubtedly will be smoother feeling but it may change the tone or make uneven tone though a smoother finish, I've seen that happen. In that case reshoot your color coat. Last year I shot a 39 Ford sedan in craft paint in a build off with another guy from this forum. We really had a good time sharing back and forth in email too. Anyway, on my last coat of green this chunk of dirt landed right in the roof. Big ugly chunk of something. I stuck the body in my dehydrator and 30 minutes later sanded it out and shot two more coats of the green. And I'm glad in a way because those two coats while flat green paint turned out satin smooth. In a couple of days as time allowed I shot the clear Tamiya X-22 without incident. I never sanded that car, I went with Colgate tooth paste then Formula 1 scratch out. I still haven't waxed it actually.

Mike yesterday you said you didn't like the feel of the Createx finish on your Oldsmobile. In what way, is it lumpy or something ? Or do you mean the rubbery feel of the color coat ? Then you were going to scuff and put down another coat. I've done that with craft paint, adding more thinner for that final coat. It comes out pretty ready for clear coating with whatever clear. But that's craft paint, can't speak for Createx.

I can see this is a real struggle for you. If you steel wool and shoot another coat then what ? Or put another way, what are you trying to gain ? Base coat doesn't need to come out like top coat or clear, it needs to be uniform, smooth is always nice. From your photos at least, it looked pretty good as a base coat assuming the color is something you want.

Maybe one of the Createx shooters has a better idea.

Once I figure the back side of a butter knife scraped the stuff right off and didn't dig up the plastic, no not hard at all. Prior to that was two to three days of soaking and buffing the thing with a tooth brush, that was a joke trying to do it with that foolish thing.

I told you about the Mustang body I think. What I didn't tell you is the model was basically all built but the wheels to put on. Popped it apart, even got the glass out without breaking it and kasplush into the pond. ? Hey, the color was bugging me !

Purple pond isn't all that powerful anyway, the stuff doesn't seem to be what it used to be.?