Dave G.

Awesome Greg ! I'm pretty sure I stuffed one of these in a full fendered 32 back in the day. Course it could have been the roadster that came with one anyway ( 1961-63 ish is a long time ago so I'm not sure lol). But what you have there came out great.

000 or 0000 steel wool, just rinse it good after so no steel fibers are left on the model.

Oooh, So that's where the Fire Dome came from I stuffed into another model back then ! I might have to acquire one of these trucks myself in due time.

I know I built at least one of those back on the original issue in the 1960's, pretty sure I did two. As far as I can remember back then all went well. Seems to me it had a nice rendition of the flathead engine for the stock truck but I don't recall the second engine off hand.

Well I wondered about black as I saw Willis cars in black. 63 Fords are among my favorites of that year/era, enjoy your build !

If it was white the official Ford white for 63, it was Corinthian White. But Ford had an off white they called something yellow, don't recall the name off hand.

Good job, I like the whole model !

You'll do fine. I do suggest a test shoot on something besides porous materials first though. If that goes fine then go for it. You can only learn by doing !

I'd be willing to bet that second truck has an almost chrome silver base coat with translucent blue over it. Or so called transparent blue. You don't exactly pick easy colors to attain or emulate ( that's fine but just sayin)!

Ah, so that's not midnight blue and has some grey in it and is more purple than blue.. It almost looks like a pearlized clear coat on there. Comparing the truck color to the blue on that floor gives the comparison/difference. I'm glad you posted this.

I don't know if it matters to you but FolkArt has a true midnight blue, very dark. Apple Barrel has a couple of quite dark blues too that usually can be found at Walmart or Micheal's.

Adding black alone will give you a grey blue. You need some red in the blue more than black. Then shoot that over a black base or black primer and you should be pretty close to midnight with that blue. Don't be afraid to go 3-4 coats of the new blue over the darker base coat..

Charlie, I tried to PM you but got a message that says you can not receive messages.

I sanded my Ceramcoat test shoot ( shot with one of my thinners in it, the most common one I use) from yesterday with a 3500 grit pad and it basically turned it semigloss lol. Smooth. That's the latest update on the Ceramcoat test shoot.

I've been re -experimenting or "re- visiting" perhaps the Pledge/Future. I go for a natural look Mike and have found in my later testing that somewhere around three coats of Pledge over craft paint and straight up buffing to a shine is something that catches my eye. I'm totally not into the buried in clear coat wet look as most of my builds are old cars in stock condition .

Sometimes. If you can get your hands on the Tamiya try that Mike.

Ya I left washer fluid going on three years ago now and shoot more craft paint than hobby paints. Just sayin.

I have a few clear coats I've used over craft paint ( including quart cans of lacquer), be that on models, in my test shoots or my wife's ceramics projects. In the acrylic lineup for model car bodys though my go to is Tamiya X-22 clear gloss thinned with DNA or hardware store lacquer thinner. You need to put this down in progressively wetter coats and the 4th coat should do the trick. If I don't use that I use Pledge floor care straight from the bottle. And then there is Liquitex Varnish ( mostly used this in test shoots in terms of model body finishes but extensively for the ceramics, we stocked it specifically for that purpose because its very resilient and UV safe. Really for me the satin shoots plenty glossy enough but we always have had all three in stock. My wife passed back in Dec so no more ceramics. I do use that liquitex on model car interiors, a mix of matt and satin and just a couple light coats over flat acrylic paint give the perfect sheen for some materials according to the blend mixed up.. And it protects from chipping. I've also mixed it into craft paint to that same end plus it bumps up the adhesion. But I have not done a full body in the stuff. Great on engine blocks too over weathering. Very good product to have on hand but then I have much of the Liquitex line here at my disposal so easy for me to say where my wife was an artist. I have several of the additives, paints etc....

I just got done shooting the test shot on a primed prescription bottle and all went well. So all I want to report is my thinner indeed works in this paint. If you like LT and it works then no argument from me. I can run that test tomorrow myself to make the comparison but I'm done for today.

I've read reports that washer fluid turns Ceramcoat to glop but I haven't tried it. I know my home brew thinner doesn't do that but I haven't shot a test yet, maybe tomorrow as I have some Ivory to try on one of my test bottles that is all primed up ready to go anyway.. I have mixed some and it's smooth and creamy as silk and stays that way, it should shoot fine. I'll report back after "the experiment " is complete. It should turn out fine.

Craft paint can vary quite a bit by what you thin it with too. What did you use for thinner ?

I have an H I use quite a bit, works fine and built like a tank (it's not my only airbrush). But note that listing says it's used, you can get a brand new one for around that same price.

The Neo is fine, the .35 tip fine. It's all about mixing paint right for the tip and air pressure you use. With airbrushing when you thin for spraying, generally speaking, means that thinner is usually better than too thick a blend. If to error do so to the thin side and just add an extra coat or two. Bear in mind that water or thinner or even ink spray wonderfully from any airbrush but un-thinned paint not at all. So you need to hit that correct blend in between there. That correct blend is more about viscosity than it is ratio of thinner to paint but people love to think in terms of ratio ! The finer the tip the more a thinner viscosity matters. A few people here use Createx paint. Bear in mind that that particular paint was originally designed for fabric and the Tee Shirt industry, so it's rubbery and flexible that it won't crack apart on fabrics. The Createx choice for hard substrates and for automotive use is AutoAir. The original Createx also isn't easy to sand. IMO there are better options out there that are easier to work with. With that said I know the draw to Createx is tempting, availability, quantity for price, number of colors etc, just understand that it's a more difficult starting point. Those who master it do get nice results.

The base coat dries flat, it needs clear gloss coating. That base coat may be lacquer ( Steve would know or you could contact them). The gloss enamel is a gloss paint obviously.

I'm not a fan of hot lacquers on models. But both MCW and Scale Finishes offer enamel ( though MCW enamel you need to thin yourself, that's a non issue to me. Actually I wish the automotive lacquer was the same because they use a faster thinner than I would if I thinned it myself).