Dave G.

Course we know who has the exact match lol ! But this might be an option to play with .

Maybe you'll hit on something good ! Go for smooth lay down. Also you might want to take a look at Tamiya X-12 gold. Just sayin

Oh yes I know what you mean ! Plus anytime you shoot closer up shots it magnifies things like metallic fleck. Your GT 40 looks very nice ( pretty sure I said that already). J fwiw though, in case you're interested for a future build, Zero Paints makes the GT 40 gold pictured above.

So what's your next move Mike ?

That gold in terms of tone on the GT40 above ( which is turning out very nice) would probably be fairly close to the Oldsmobile gold but the Olds never had metal flake finish. It was a very fine metallic and a natural non clear coated finish as well..

I'd be aiming for lower viscosity "and or" more flow out. Then air pressure. But I don't use Createx, so far be it from me without getting hands on to say how that is accomplished with Createx. I will say, I'm one to think and work outside the box sometimes.

My 1/16 Model A fenders with Tamiya black acrylic just out of the dehydrator after shooting the black. So this is straight from the airbrush, no polishing no anything but taking a picture. It's over Stynylrez black primer, shot 30 minutes before the black went on, that's the dark grey/black between the fenders. Shot them dried them everything all in took less than an hour. Just fwiw. This photo is considerably down graded from compression for email as well. The fenders are not wet, that's dry black paint, no clear coat, not polished..

Exciting ! Let us know how it goes.

MCW lacquer will knock your head off if you aren't prepared to shoot lacquer. It smells just like the stuff I sprayed in 1/1 back in the 70's and 80's. You really need a respirator or at least an R rated mask good for chemical/solvent particulates but 4 coats looks great, ready to buff up in a day or two with no clear coat. Being acrylic lacquer ( solvent based) it's a harder surface than nitro lacquer or Tamiya acrylic to buff. FWIW. On a nice day you could shoot it outdoors though. I see the Createx paints as something good for custom car builds, maybe a hot rod but not factory stock paint. And factory stock metallics are very hard to custom blend yourself. I was very close on my own blend of the solid Washington Blue, the MCW I got is dead on but actually either would work on an overall paint job for the Model A. But that's not the case with metallic paints unless you have the actually blending formula to mix from and the right metallic flakes in that portion of the blend color.............. I shot 1/1 for 30 years and metallic paints even then could be hard to panel blend. You get a different reflection of light from different angles if the formula is off just a little bit. In fact even a little too much thinner could have the metallic sheen appear silvery in golds. As base coat clear coat systems came in and ultimately took over, then color match reading software, this became much easier and a kid right out of voc school could become a good color match expert in a body/paint shop with mixing equipment.. Kids are great with computers and the mixer/blending is computerized. No more hand timing of tints from mechanical mixing machines. From what I understand, Mike at MCW has acquired the computerized equipment. His blends should be exact matches. Not sure how Scale Finishes does theirs. We know they are using acrylic enamel. I saw where MCW would soon be offering alcyd enamel and has it but not up on the site yet. Why am I saying all this ? I don't know just gabby today.

Nah, one thing at a time. Stick some thinner in there and try that first, might be fine.

Ya 4012 thinner, 4030 additive, then they have 4020 anti blush you can use up to 25% for humid weather conditions. But the 4012 is the main thing.

People do use it, it sprays pretty easy and polishes up pretty easy. If you don't bury the car in it it can polish up to a convincing factory shine. But I've only done it in tests not on a whole model. For that I tend to use Tamiya clear acrylic. Or sometimes lacquer but you really need to be set up for lacquer..

Well the 4030 is not clear coat as I understand it, it's an additive to the paint. You can clear coat with any number of products and have it just polished up so as it doesn't look like heavy clear coat, it can look pretty much like polished paint if done right. It's a matter of practice and polishing to the level you want it at.

It's been warm here too but dry at least. One day here was 72 or so, crazy for the east coat of New England in Nov........ You won't have thinning issues, the 4030 clear has some flow advantage though and you can use it more liberally than their thinner. But plenty of people shoot this stuff without that too it seems.. Seems to me if someone wants to seriously dive into the Createx line, might just as well follow their video recommendations.

My Washington Blue showed up today from MCW ( probably was at PO Sat but We didn't make it there). Looks really right, hope to shoot a little test patch tomorrow but I want to keep all I can of the 1oz mix because this is a 1/16 body and hood (Model A) it's going on. It looks like it's dead on though. OP, how are you making out with the air etc ?

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Just stay with it you'll get it working ( spraying right).

Ya I have an 8 gal portable I use with LVLP guns, nail guns etc, air it up ahead of time for airbrushing or fill my portable tank I also have, and silent painting either way. I'll paint out in the kitchen at 6am before the ladies are even stirring and not bother them. And I get all the air flow I could ever want. Same for you imagine.

Try thinning the paint some more to where it will shoot at 20-22 psi. Your compressor might keep up there. Try it with plain water in the airbrush first if need be. If that doesn't work try a #3 tip with it's smaller air cap, it's really all you need for models anyway. You need to solve this problem because even if you go OEM mix for your paint job you need steady air flow. Usually with an H though one of the above will do it with a tankless comp. And do understand the problem is the compressor not the airbrush. It's just many airbrushes have restricted airflow to something on the order of 25psi, the H will flow 50 if you set it there and the comp can't keep up. No comment on the paint, it's pretty though. Oh and you might as well go on to clear coating it, you need to experience that anyway. I do tests like this all the time lol !! Just so I know.

LOL on the stinky paint ! But ya, I get it. I use both.

When I shot solvent paint exclusively I did the same as I always did in 1/1, after shooting lacquer thinner through the brush/gun, I then put a little LT in the jar/cup, unscrewed the tip and dropped it in the thinner for storage till next use. Never had a clog in 1/1 or the Badger 200. Like you, maybe once a year I cleaned the needle or when I wanted to change sizes. Acrylic takes more cleaning and I've found for day to day cleaning warm water and a little dish soap followed by alcohol does better than LT alone. But eventually the residue builds up, maybe in a month or two I remove the nozzle for soaking. To soak, LT then works best in an over night soak or acetone second. Acrylic is really a different animal to clean, takes many more flushings and back flushing and some rubbing with an alcohol soaked Q tip in the wings of the air cap and edges of external pieces.. Least that's my experience. When I do pull the needle there will be harder crust on there with acrylic than solvent paints that I steel wool off with 000... Then I lightly bees wax the needle. Acrylic doesn't dissolve like solvent paint residue. It doesn't residue like solvent paint either, it crusts up. But it's all workable once you come to understand the stuff.

Ya, I already shot the cream wheels or I'd have ordered that as well. But nothing prompted the order failed on the single bottle of Washington Blue, they list this color though. I got confirmation thanking me for the order and they would let me know when it ships. Shipping $10.50 but I wasn't surprised. Edit: the order has shipped

Back on the course with the thread ! Let us know how it goes. You're looking for Auto-Air I assume ?

I think it's 1 oz pre mixed ready to spray. And I think you may need to call them about that color or email. I mentioned that in my other post, I don't think they list the color but that doesn't mean they won't mix it. In the upper video he mentions contacting them if you need a color match.

I have Washington Blue lacquer coming for my 1/16 Model A roadster body and hood. From MCW that is. The fenders though will be black Tamiya acrylic, I've already done the workup for them and it will pass fine.. The wheel paint I mixed up myself and they're already shot. I forget the name of that color off hand but it's a cream/yellow..