Dave G.

I can't tell you how many of those kits I built, most of them and certain ones several times. The 32 five window was my first in the series and several of the 39-40 Ford sedans, several 40 Ford coupes.. But I built the T and 32 roadsters too, in fact entered a contest with the full fendered roadster with Chrysler engine.. It didn't place because it was brush painted, that was the last body that ever got brush painted lol. The next contest I entered a semi custom 49 Ford ( not from the trophy series) with sprayed body and upholstered interior and got a third place with that. As I recall all the old Ford kits were molded in black initially and the contemporaries of the time like the 58 t bird, the 60's buicks etc in white. Long time ago now though so who knows ! But ya I remember the series for sure. I preferred hard tops to convertibles though so not so many of the convertibles got done by me. Never built the boat and I don't recall that trailer at all, though I must have seen it.

I've been thinking on what you have written here. You seem to want a detail gun. Then outfit your 200 with a fine tip and needle if you don't have them and have a good detail gun. I use the medium on my 200 to do acrylic colors on interior parts and sprue tree parts overall but the 350 or an H can do that just as well.. I go with a color cup and fine needle on the 200, mix the paint into almost a wash, then turn the flow of both paint and air way down ( you almost can't see the paint coming out till the tip is almost on the part) to paint inside the grills.. On the outer rim of the grill I put a light coat of glycerin and just rub it off after if any over spray hit it. The body and large surface parts like the hood or trunk parts I use the H but you could use the 350 just as well I bet. I think a fine tip and needle combo at Amazon is around $12- $15, no more than $20 if you have to buy them separately.. Probably US Airbrush Supply is similarly priced for these parts. You want the needle and nozzle for the Badger 100, 150 and 200. Don't confuse the 200NH in there because it's needles will also fit the 105 and 155 and this is a different system from your older style 200 that you said you had..

The Patriot 105 is also on 40% coupon at Amazon prime and smile as well, can be had for about $40 on the subscribe and save program.I believe the medium needle is standard in it but you can buy other tips and needles if a need is found. It has a smaller color cup than the TG. All Badgers use the same hose, Paasche has a different thread but adapters can be gotten either way..

I upgraded my 200 last year, I used the old hose and got a Badger to 1/4" adapter and put a standard 1/4 coupler end on that to fit my portable shop compressor ( never a fear of low air supply lol). and I bought the upgraded medium and large nozzle sets with appropriate needles. My fine nozzle set I kept original because it's always worked ok. I wanted to try the new pedal style nozzle sets, Glad I did. It's still not double action though, you have to manually dial flow down and up. and with the cost of all the upgrades you can buy a new Patriot 105 by the time all is said and done. By the way I use a color cup on my 200 fairly often, especially with the fine needle combo. I use one on the H too but more so on the 200 because the 200 is my detail gun. I just wanted to rejuvenate my old 200 is all. It works great. So does the Paasche H. I bet the Badger 350 does too.

If you are an Amazon prime member there is an offer up now for the TG where you hit subscribe and save and get 40% off with the coupon that generates. The regular price at Amazon is$98 for the 3 needle set plus fan air cap at Amazon to begin with so that is a substantial deal ( $58 with free shipping). The TS has the fan cap as well fwiw but is not listed in this program. I think that set is $89.. The Badger Patriot 105 is on this deal as well, though you weren't asking about Badger airbrushes. With the 40% off I guess that brush would be around $40. All that said , I use a Paasche H with #3 head set mostly. Also a Badger 200 that is 40 years old, both are single action. I use either one with the color cup or with jars of mixed paint depending on the volume of paint I need to run. Incidentally, I can paint the mesh of a 1/25th scale chrome grill with the Badger 200 and fine needle/ nozzle without masking, so double action not really required though I guess it would be good to clear the head if starting to get tip dry. I don't know if the TG would be as comfortable getting into small details like that quite honestly.

As I said, always worth a look see. Amazon wants $39.90 for the ICM 1/24 scale model T roaster and that local guy is $59 and change.

Always worth a look see, course it doesn't always work out either.

I just checked Amazon prime, it's $21.95 with free shipping. I'm in favor of a local shop staying in business but not $11 worth on a single kit. I think he is more in line on the 40 ford coupe though.

I see. So are there non deluxe/retro kits out there as well ? A local hobby store want $32 for Gas man kit, Amazon $23 I think, maybe this is why and I wasn't aware of this. It seems like model car kits used to be a simple straight forward purchase way back when.

Dueces, what's a deluxe kit about ? I'm not familiar with that one. I have no loyalty to this GasMan thing, the rendition I want to build is more street rod/ street and strip. custom/retro and haven't bought a kit yet..

Thanks Jon.

Ok, seeing I was maybe 12 at the time I built this, I either took the three two barrels and put them on an Olds engine that came in a Willies kit I never liked much ( robbed a bunch of parts from that for other kits as I recall) or I thought the Caddy was an Olds. It's too long ago to recall that fine a detail. Thanks for all the info !

OK guys thanks. So what is the carburation offered for this Caddy engine within the kit ?

Just curious if someone might know what it is. I built one of the original 49 Ford kits way back in the early 60's or so, actually several of them. One I built that was a favorite of mine that i painted maroon, put slicks and traction bars on it and an Olds engine with I think tri power carbs, de-chromed the body sides etc. I don't recall if the engine came with the kit and no clue what engines comes with Gas Man kit.

Thanks ! Speaking of posting photos, is there a photo size restriction here ?

Indeed.

What airbrush and nozzle size would you be shooting the Stynylrez through ?

For me it's the pellet stove but it's also true. The pellet stove is way dustier than acrylic paint jobs ever thought of being. Now the over spray from metallic nail polish on her stove is another story, pulled that one off before I had the booth ! Just another plug for a booth, well worth having all the way around. Ya just putting down news papers and turning on the range hood didn't work out so hot.

You could get one of those Master or Point Zero booths or similar that are all made the same under different names and price points. But I think for $90 or so you can get one with the hose and attachment that fits under an almost closed window for shooting solvent based paints or even acrylics. But truth be known, "news flash" ! Our bodies aren't made to ingest paint, solvent or acrylic. And these booths fold up into a case no larger than a trumpet case if even that big. Should be no problem to stick it under a bed or behind a chest someplace when not in use.. If I were moving into a small area with a delicate and I'm sure pretty young lady that I cared deeply for or similar situation ( pets etc) I'd go acrylic and booth personally. I mostly do even in my house with large kitchen. Now and then I spray some solvent based paints, nail polishes and such or otherwise lacquer but I've mostly converted to acrylics now and still use a booth when I spray. Acrylics still stick up the inside of your nose if left air borne, get the booth is my advise.. Wart off sinus infections and such, they are prevalent enough without invitation as well..

Thanks everyone !

50-60% windshield washer fluid, 20% Windex, the remainder is IPA alcohol (91% not the 70% stuff) . To that I add a drop or two of flow agent or glycerin will also work ( this helps keep the nozzle clear and paint from sticking inside the brush on your next paint application). If you are using water anyway you also can just mix it 50/50 with the IPA and use a drop of dish soup in it. That works too but I have the other ingredients in the house anyway and it works well, basically like commercial acrylic airbrush cleaner. You can use rough numbers the exact ratio isn't critical.

Thanks !

I use a home made airbrush cleaner I make up and use for acrylic paints. But what ever you use do it right after painting, don't let your airbrush sit around. Once this stuff dries it will b3e a bear to get out of the innards of the airbrush, as are most acrylics but all the more so where this is acrylic poly.

Thanks !

I'm using a bunch of different ones.I find most stick well as long as I use the Stynyrez primer from Badger on the plastic and scuff the plastic first. Probably Liquitex soft body bonds best but I haven't had much trouble with FolkArt either and they have a ton of colors to choose from. The key is thinning, primer coat and sealing. Most anything can be sandwiched between the primer and sealer as long as it's compatible and sprays on smooth.. I'm using stynyrez primers, I find this to bond pretty decently to scuffed plastic, then any acrylic paint pretty much bonds to that primer. Top Coat this time was clear lacquer but next time I think I'm going with Liquitex Gloss varnish, it sprays on like warm butter on hot toast and requires very little buffing. I was using the satin in this stuff for my wife's ceramics, it mixes in with acrylics to make various sheens but is also a top coat. In her case we used it to seal and protect but it's a dream to spray. I just recently got a bottle in gloss,. I use Micheals rewards cards and get 40 or 50% off coupons and that is when I buy these more expensive Liquitex finishes and additives. Liquitex products are made to airbrushed, all but the heavy body airbrush very smoothly and bond well. And the additives can be used in other acrylic paints. I could go on and on talking about paints so I'll stop there lol !