Dave G.

Well gee. ?

I wouldn't say a pancake compressor is not real. But from the pancake you will need a 1/4" to Badger adapter if you use a Badger hose. Badger has a dedicated thread of their own. Paasche is another brand who does that as well and different from Badger. Course those are the two brands I use most lol. I adapted both to 1/4" quick disconnects for my 8 gal portable compressor. I bought them through Amazon years ago but right now Amazon has delayed shipping on many items. Just sayin.

Paasche Talon offers an additional fan cap as well ( seems to me the cap and nozzle combo is $10 or so). It's used with the .66 needle but it's double action so you don't have to pull back all the way if you want less paint. I believe the pattern is around 3".

Yes I started to post on Paasche's ring method of identifying the tips and needles yesterday and must have left the page without submitting it. Good info !!!

The H is fine especially on model cars, several guys here who use that exclusively. I have that and my trust very old Badger 200 I use. Either will paint a car body just fine and much more.

Paasche offers a 3" pattern fan cap for their Talon airbrushes ( works with .66 needle).

You can get great finishes with an H or 350 as well. But I gotta tell you if you buy the H definitely get the air tank. The H has unrestricted air flow, the more you crank the pressure the more it will flow which is why it's great with enamels. But to do that you need a good volume of air supply. A pulsating piddle of air won't work beyond maybe the small needle set.

Yes, the solvents in Krylon can swell the sanding scratches in styrene plastic. It's better to prime. I don't believe for a minute it's the 800 grit paper alone but I don't use paper on my models anymore for overall sanding before paint. I either use scuff pads or steel wool. And I steel wool my primer coat with 000 or 0000 steel wool. Paper has a direct grit that digs in, pads or steel wool especially is a more scraping action. For me the results are great. Paper gouges and leaves microscopic ledges and ridges that the solvents expand. Just fwiw. But you probably would have won if you primed.

I watched one review where the guys impression was the Vallejo stainless steel made a better rendition of chrome than the chrome paint did. But he was impressed overall with the Vallejo metal colors as acrylics go ( his words not mine). I have no first hand experience, I've kind of settled on Molotow for my chrome paint till the magic bullet of chrome paints comes along.. Molotow is close to being that imo. It is touch sensitive but in a different way than Alclad, it doesn't flake off but goes dull when touched with any pressure and that area then looks silver. But it's highly reflective stuff otherwise.

Well if it is indeed enamel I suggest thinning more for one thing but it almost looks like you mixed lacquer thinner in MM acrylic as others mentioned..... Are you sure it's enamel and also enamel that hasn't gone bad ? I've shot this combo and Chrome yellow many times, it comes out looking like glass, you can see yourself in the finish. I shoot it over primer but it will go down to bare plastic too. I thin just short of 1/1, so like 55/45 paint to thinner. One more thing, this isn't the new green formula synthetic lacquer thinner that's out these days is it ? You need the good old fashioned stuff. What primer did you use ? Was it good and dry ?

Model Master solvent paints are gone as far I know ( Rustoleum stopped production last year). I'm intending to go with AK Interactive Xtreme metal paints as I need metal finish in place of MM Metalizer. Right now I'm ok. .

I built an original back in the day, top up painted it black with off white top. Put in working lights . No photos though. Oh well, thanks for the memories , nice build !!!!

Wow you guys really stirred up the memory banks, I built several of those starting in 58 till about 65. Then I was old enough to start branching off into classic cars and other kinds of builds. Built the Big T and Deuce also. Many more memories, too many to talk about.

That's a good price, didn't know they carried it. I checked NAPA, they have quality LT but forget the price, want to say it something like $14 or more a quart. So I just stick with Kleen Strip.

Ya you can cut enamels with lacquer thinner from the hardware store, just make sure it's not the new green label synthetic stuff. You might even like how it sprays better ( I get a tremendous gloss from that with Testors or MM enamels when airbrushed). It will also clean your airbrush great. For brushes I'd get mineral spirits and you can use that to spray with as well or to cut the paints just slightly for brush painting.. I actually do a blend of that and hardware store paint thinner sometimes and enamels go down nice with that from the airbrush too. I'm not a fan of hardware store paint thinning alone for spraying, the paint want to flow nice but will crater, looking almost like fish eyes but it won't do that if it's mixed 50-50 with mineral spirits and thin with that combo.. Now you get the nice flow out, a little fast tack up and no craters. Same with lacquer thinner as the thinner. I haven't bought the Testors thinner since the mid 1970's lol !!! You can get a full quart of these other products for about $9 each.

Sure, no problem.

I've been airbrushing since the mid 1970's but some of my nicest build in my mind were from rattle cans I used all through the 1960's. It's all in how you handle things lol !! You can probably expect an initial setback switching to airbrush but you will learn quick. A good place to start will be with your flats and semigloss paints, maybe some small parts as well. so interiors, floorpans, chassis, engines, good practice.

The 5.0 is a 302 Ford and used in many model Fords from 1968 on up. The only iteration different is the Boss 302, also 5.0 but with different heads and wider valve covers. Course there were various induction systems too.The so called or infamous version of the Windsor engine is a 351ci 5.7 engine. This has a taller block deck and very slightly wider head placement so a slightly wider intake. At 1/25 scale it would be hard to tell the difference between a 5.7 and 5.0. Then of course you have your late model engines, Mustang again has a 5.0 in these, different looking engine. The kit has the standard or longest running 5.0 in it as I recall ( the older version). The FE is a completely different animal.

Sure thing, hope you make out well !

Never tried that, I've used slightly thinned enamel paint before and that should go over the lacquer ok just test it first. I've seen on here where guys have used Future/Pledge with good results, that's what I'll probably do in the future no pun intended assuming I ever flock again. Those products should go over the lacquer fine.

Looks the same as Badger. He says it is.

If you're using a standard needle ( .4-.6) or even a .35 you probably won't need to thin it at all. It really snuggles into every detail well. Don't over do the thinning. Soaking in lacquer thinner should work to soak it clean, I find 91 ipa to do well. My over night soaks I do now and then are lacquer thinner though and who knows what residue is inside my brushes, never had any trouble. Just make sure you really flush out the bulk of the Stynylrez ( plain water gets the bulk out) because it hardens up pretty quickly if not. It's good stuff, I think you will like it.

First of all it's basically odorless ( faint underlying sort of musky smell). It goes on like paint lol and levels out nice when dry. It will spray from the bottle but I often use a .25 needle and being lazy well that's not the best nozzle size for primer. So I cut it a little bit, takes very little thinning. I was using alcohol or a thinner I make up for craft paints and cutting 5-10% but then I found that Badger suggests just plain water. Funny you should ask because yesterday was the first time I tried water, very very little, maybe 3-4% plain water. It mixed right in and just cut the tension, mixed like light cream, sprayed on very smooth with the .25 needle. It dries in about 30 minutes but I like to give it a half day or so or cook it for 20 minutes in the dehydrator. You don't have to do this but I like to buff it with 000 steel wool, it will come out semi gloss if you do and gives a super smooth surface for your finish coats, plus pluck out any little flecks of dust you might not realize is there.. So happens this time I shot in the late afternoon so it's sat overnight. Really clean your airbrush. I flush and backflush, then flush in running warm tap water about three cycles. Then use 91% ipa and run that through back flush, then flush with water again. I use a Qtip inside the nozzle end. Then one more flush with water fwiw. Worth a tear down if you will put the brush away for a while. But I'm usually painting again within hours. It really clings inside the brush and when it fully cures it's a bear to deal with then. So I make sure it's well flushed out. I do a lot of craft paints for my color coats these days, so I'm often following up with acrylic.

Let us know how you make out ! I've been using it as my main primer now for a bit over two years.

I've sprayed lacquer nail polish over it thinned with hardware store lacquer thinner. I haven't shot automotive lacquer over it. I did have one failure when I thinned with xylene but not with the LT. I've shot enamel over Stynylrez many times, in fact I did my 1/16 scale Mercer that way. Good luck !