Dave G.

I built one of those when I was a kid back around 1962 or so and I'm thinking I put in an Olds engine from the AMT 40 Ford sedan. If not I still think it would look nice in there and be period to your year range. It has options of blower, injection or carbs. My choice would be three 2bbl, it was just like the thing to do in that era. I think if I remember right you want a rear sump engine/oil pan for correct clearance to the front axle . I could be wrong, 1960's is a long time ago lol ! A friend of mine back in the mid 60's had a 1/1 1959 and pulled out the 6 and put in a Y block with 3 strombergs on it, small cam, dual exhaust. It may not be much today but back then it seemed like it pulled your sox off with 3:70 gears. Also very period of course but too common if you want something really different. Sounded good too, only warmed over Y blocks have that particular sound.

Well I'm just going by what the owner at my LHS has said. However I did not ask about the spray cans. And he did state the disclaimer that Rustoleum does strange things so you never know for sure...

They aren't going away that we can tell. Some of the Model Master enamel bottles are, in particular the military colors. .

Nice job on that tank, especially for a first effort and with craft paints !! Looks great !

Hah, I just called the LHS and he actually has Metalizer stainless steel in stock. I'll buzz down there for that and see what else came in if anything. Edit: I decided to wait and put an order in elsewhere for a few different Metalizers and ship them all at once, the LHS went up to $5.29 a bottle . But I did buy a 2mm Molotow pen which was priced competitively and I can use on my 49 Ford build basically today. The stainless Metalizer was just a restock item. You never know in that store, some things are priced well and others well over suggested retail.

Just in kind of perusing about online it seems some ebay sellers have the MM blue angel yellow, maybe they have some other colors you want too and can stock up..... fwiw. Also the regular Testors enamels spray pretty much the same as MM enamel. I already mentioned Humbrol. Then if push comes to shove for car finishes you could get a hold of Scalefinishes and he will eventually mix any automotive color you desire in either lacquer or enamel.

Good to know, I get up near there now and then. Online orders wouldn't be far away either.

Thanks. Where are these guys located ?

By the way you can turn 91% ipa into 70% by adding in 21% distilled water. And it will never be 91 again since alcohol evaporates faster than water.

My LHS made no mention of the Metalizers going, when I kind of assumed they might go too I alluded to that. He basically shook his head no. But that was back around Sept and I notice that he is out of many flavors of them. Sooo, I don't know. I mostly airbrush them but have brushed them too and thought they went on fine. I like that aluminum plate for intakes, auto trans, even used it on an old Mercer for some parts that were aluminum on those. If these go I'm tossed between Extreme Metal, I believe by AK or trying a couple of the Vallejo metals that are supposed to be quite good considering they are acrylic. It's just for me a no brainer at this point to put on the MM though. So I will learn something new I reckon if indeed these are going away.

Oops, double post.

They probably aren't much of a volume mover in the eyes of corporate Rustoleum. Especially with the hobby having other viable options these days. I still use a couple of them, in particular Aluminum Plate, it just goes down nice and thin and covers and is buffable. I like that.

Ya LL3, it's tough to beat MM enamels for a straight up no fuss finish. Some of the guys over in FSM are really liking the Humbrol enamels now that they switched. I haven't tried Humbrol in decades so can't comment personally. It's good you got a stash of MM though, congrats on that lol !! I remember Pactra and Floquil going, it seems like anything you really like gets screwed over. But two years ago I started a campaign for myself experimenting with acrylics and I've got them shooting pretty decent now, even craft paints. They usually need clear coating except for Tamiya gloss though. If you want an old classic car finish, they generally weren't clear coated. MM enamel to me is the closest to the Pactra line I used to use on those old stock classics era cars.... Have to wait and see how the automotive MM line shakes out. But at least I know I can get a pretty decent finish from acrylics if need be. It's taken me this long to really get them going down nice out of my Badger 200 and Paasche H. Not so much a fan with double action fwiw ( maybe it's just me).

This is the first I've heard of MM and the car line thinning out ( enamels I mean). But my local hobby store told me back in Sept or so the military line was going, when the rack was empty that would be it. Acrylics were staying as is. Over in Fine Scale Modeler forums the military builders have been aware of this and some have already transitioned over to Humbrol enamels. Humbrol they say, seems to be increasing the enamel line. Best I can tell you.

OK thanks for this. Back to the OP topic lol !

Thanks. FWIW no 37 four door.

J&J doesn't have a 37 chevy 4 door by chance do they ? Is there a link to them ?

No argument from me Pete ! But I'm very happy with my Badger 200 I've owned since 1975 and my Paasche H too. Arguably not the top of the line but very functional tools for me. The other one I own is double action, gravity feed etc but I'm just used to my originals.

Well I know that a doner AMT 37 coupe or roadster kit is required to finish this up with. I'm thinking the AMT gasser has stock parts included and this resin body might work to make a stock sedan.

There were a couple of videos out there on youtube on tuning those up, also on Harbor Freight brushes..Basically boiled down to polishing the needles up a little and sealing parts when you push together or screw together, as the case may be, with bees wax or chapstick. This is a good idea with any brush really, I do the same on my badger and Paasche brushes. I also have another import much like Master and I do the same with that. They all spray fine for me. Some of the knockoffs like mine have no parts support but on that count Master actually might have at least needles and such things. So I don't directly own a Master but a knockoff of probably Iwata also. And I've also never seen much for complaints on the Master airbrushes either. If I painted three models the same with my three brand brushed you wouldn't be able to tell which one was used on which model. It comes down to comfort/what you like, preference in use ( I have gravity and siphon fed brushes) and service or parts availability. And believe it or not just your favorite one, what you are used to using.

I know this is an old thread but that's ok I assume. I'm curious how it went with this 37 four door if anyone has gotten it ? I'd actually like to build a stock 37 Chevy sedan, be it two or four door.

I recently needed to pull apart a Mustang that had been fully glued together with the Orange tube Testors model cement. Thinking back to my childhood days when that stuff literally melted the parts together I simply planned on something breaking. Well it popped right apart. Orange Testors today is not the same as then. If you use it sparingly the model will probably about fall apart for you. Set up time is faster than elmers.

I've been taking to the thicker set ca glues for a while. Right now I'm using up some Gorilla thick ca I've liked quite a bit both in modeling and in wood working ( I turn hollow form Christmas ornaments and use the thick set ca to assemble them). I used to use ca just for special hard to stick items like resin or small parts mounted into die cast and such. But lately I find I use it more than in the past even on styrene. I'm gonna try some Crazy Glue gel here soon. I also use ca in fly tying. So ya, all types of materials. I do a thin ca glue finish on some of the wooden ornaments too.

I know yellow will backlight awesome and shine right through light primer but not dark stynylrez. It's like a shade on a lamp effect, kind of a diffused light. Priming inside and out may help if your theory is correct. And I'm not here to say you're right or wrong !

I flush with warm water at my kitchen sink and follow up with alcohol. It dries quickly, don't leave your airbrush sitting around with Stynylrez residue in it thinking you will clean it later. If you clean it right away it's a non issue. Course I spray in my kitchen to begin with so I just move over to the sink with the brush still hooked to the compressor. I'm considering moving my booth to the basement and if so will have to reconsider how I clean then.