Dave G.

I love that build ! Wow that takes me back to several I built back around 1964 or so from 36 and 40 Ford AMT kits. I used to put slot car tires on them and a smaller tire on the left front because the circle track we went to that's what they all did is have that smaller left front back then. Awesome job you did there !

I've tried washer fluid, it's hit or miss depending on the acrylic paint you put it in. And there are more dependable solutions out there today. Also when Chris made this video I doubt Stynlrez primer was a big player yet if even around. But had he used that under the craft paint he wouldn't have had the paint chipping from tape pulling it up ( if you watch the whole series on that build you will see where he had to fix it up off camera). Stynylrez way improves adhesion of acrylic paints, including craft paints. Yep, it sure does, I've run the tests for myself. And it bonds better than Valljo's poly acrylic primer too.

If you want to match that car, the tires are inside the fender at the top but not the front. You still need to radius the opening quite a bit even with the tub job and narrowed rear if you want that look and set of the wheels/tires within the fender line.

That's great ! I hope it works out for you. Apparently this brand is big on military and cammo sets and they have thinner, cleaner, several different military sets of paints. I'm still not finding anything on the primers, there are a few videos and reviews out there at youtube on the system and paints. I get the impression this line may be UK based but it's more available than I first thought. Since they are model paints I have to assume the primer should work reasonably well on plastic fwiw. I don't intend to change any time soon from Badger Stynylrez primer though. Here is one video I watched:

I looked up lifecolor paints in a search where Amazon came up, I clicked on there and found a materinty belt, garden hoses, a toy soldier set, some kind of curtain and various other items. But in another search a hobby store came up and they gave these paints a pretty good review. But I still don't have any experience with them. I also found where Fine Scale Modeler Magazine did something on these too.

Of course.

Blow your clothing off or at least wipe yourself down before you spray, especially your shirt and do it far from your booth because if it's still air borne when you turn the booth on guess where the dust is headed !. Put your mask on away from the booth too.. Half the time dust comes from us not the room. This was even a problem in 1-1 painting. I used to wear a painter suit with air fed helmet and the last thing before stepping into the booth was to blow down all I could get at with an air gun ( just a quick blow off makes a big difference). We were spraying a lot of Dupont Imron two part urethane ( that's why the air fed helmet, it was the standard of the day painting that system of paints).. I use Formula 1 Scratch out for polishing models. Lightly scuff first with wet sand paper or micro mesh. Then polish it up. With enamel paint and if I don't have dust I just polish.

Actually I never heard of it. Why don't you try it out and let us know how it is. I know that I test all the products fairly extensively that I do use but that isn't one of them.

Goodwrench, did you ever get this stuff spraying ? Just curious.

I have Windex as about 35-40% of my cleaner ingredients that I make up. Never an issue, get the brush clean with that , flush it out with water, follow up with 91% ipa. I use it on my 40+ yo Badger and newer Paasche H, have not had an issue. I think it depends how you use the Windex but this isn't the first time I've heard this. When I soak parts overnight for instance I use lacquer thinner. I've also used dish soap and water as a cleaner, it works best when heated up. Which I usually clean them at the kitchen sink anyway.

I could have used those 40 years ago when I shot about everything with Testors or Pactra rattle cans. I used to shoot it all but the car body on the sprue trees as I recall.

I use the soft body Liquitex and airbrush them for certain applications too ( great for interiors, chassis, engine, drive line etc). I use the airbrush medium in some of their paints and in their varnishes. But I also make my own airbrush thinner that works good with the soft body line of paints. IMO sometimes better than their medium, it sprays on more enamel like. Just depends on the color really, the thicker colors need a bit of medium for an initial cut even if I use my thinner. I know nothing about Liquitex spray cans or the accessory nozzles though.

I keep a blend made up that I clean most acrylics with, including Tamiya, MM, Liquitex and craft paints. It's about 30% or so Windex, 40% 91ipa alcohol, a shot of glycerin and the rest is water. Then I follow the main flushings of that up with straight alcohol and shoot that through to get any residue of the cleaner out. Probably lacquer thinner would work just as well, never tried it since I have this other blend.

If you're interested and the deal isn't sealed already so to speak. I stripped the chrome mesh on a 1/25th scale mustang grill ( they were matt black in real) by hand brushing some gel drano onto it. Let it sit for a few minutes and the chrome melted away, then rinsed it with plain water. Done deal and after painting i think the detail is all the better because you don't have the extra layer of chrome under the paint.. The bumper would be easy to brush gel drano onto, it's quite controllable just try it on a scrap piece first.

Good news ! Bet right about now you're wishing you already had that compressor.

Junk imo too. Try some custom paint techniques on it, good for practice as mentioned already.

I put the Big T and also the 32 Deuce roadsters together back in the 1960's using plain old Testors model glue, as I recall without issue. I used Pactra glue back then as well. Anyway glue that welds plastic. I still use it today for the most part. I'm about to start a 1/16 scale vintage Mercer kit and will use Testors.

50b should be fine, I'm sure your compressor flows more cfm than most airbrush compressors anyway. Then set your ABR to where ever you need it. Ive shot up to 40lb with Paasche H one time. With varnish that brush and the 5 needle likes 30-35 psi but you aren't using that. My Badger is pretty consistently run around 25 with medium tip. You're probably going to be shooting around 18-24 psi with yours and less with washes. Time will tell ! You can always run a regular compressor hose, or plastic air line for that matter, between the compressor and regulator.

The.2 may work fine on bodies depending what paint you use and how you thin the paint. Try it but I can say I love a .5 on my Badger in general actually and have a .25 as well which I do use.. So I gather they were able to help you out then. Edit: oops didn't see your other post. I'd probably run 50lb to the ab regulator. I've actually run my brushes right off the compressor regulator around 20-25lb. It works but the readings aren't too accurate, nor the regulators real fine. The ab regulators are more sensitive and even out pressure drops better. The ab will still spray though.

Be nice to see an FE Ford in there. Just my opinion.

They have pretty decent tech support there, Mon-Fri pacific time. I don't know if with your airbrush you received any spare needles or nozzles, tips, air caps etc. But the standard needle in that brush is .2 which makes it good for detail work. However if you want to paint overall car bodies I would suggest the extra .5 needle/nozzle set they sell at TCP ( $9.95). Or at least the .3 set if you did not get these in your purchase.. It's nice that for an inexpensive brand all these parts are available, that is not the case with most other non top brands. And it seems they spray well too. I wish you much joy with this airbrush.

I was just recently watching some reviews on Master airbrushes and they seem to review very well. If you contact TCP Global they can get you hooked right up to that compressor and it won't be expensive... You want to get hooked up to a standard compressor quick connect coupler.

It's going to work Scott ! No " if " there. What airbrush are you using ?

Is it so loud you wouldn't want it indoors ? That might change some requirements. And what airbrush do you have ?