Dave G.

Then I wonder if the right side is in a pinch somehow and lifting the left side off. If the body is in contact with the running board though, then it's the fenders as the post above this one indicates.

I know you said the interior clears ok but did you try fitting the body to the fenders before the interior tub went in ? It really looks like the whole left side is sitting up off the fender assembly.

You don't want to listen to me on that topic because I'm nuts lol, and go after the offending spot with a charcoal grill lighter or candle. You might want to be more conservative and follow someone else's lead there, some folks like a hot water soak for instance.. I've never had much luck with a hair dryer, maybe someone else has. I've just been using an actual flame for 60 years but I can't say I never wrecked anything either. I wonder if you set those fenders on the frame if you can see where they are tweaked. Assuming it's them and not the body ( but it looks like the fenders from the photos).

Oops, I think it says to remove that cross support between the rear fenders. Pretty sure I removed it and had no trouble with the fit. Edit: Well, it's not in the instructions, it may have been embossed on the piece itself unless I'm thinking of another kit lol !

I think the 39/40 gasser kit built stock shares the same body/fender parts. I just built one as a 39 back in Sept and it went together well. To me from the photos, it appears your fender assembly is warped. Mine fit well enough that I just literally tacked the assemblies together with a few well placed drops of glue in case I want to pop it apart at a later date for what ever reason. When I was a kid I cann't tell you how many of these sedan kits I built, always a fan lol ! But I remember one or two not quite as bad as yours but similar. I just glued it and weighted it till dry, as well as I can recall. As long as the seam lines mated I was happy, then sliced any openings for the bumper brackets as needed. They always turned out acceptable to me. A couple I turned into stock cars though, so those got all cut up and cut down anyway, very cool looking I might add, because you expect to see coupes done up as stock cars.. Just sayin. Yours might be warped enough you may need to get a little heat involved.

On your acrylic comment, you would get along with Tamiya acrylic thinned with lacquer thinner, it pretty much acts like solvent paints but cleans up like acrylics. It's really a hybrid of some kind, more like lacquer or enamel than water based acrylic. Along the way sometime grab a bottle and give it a try, you will see what I mean for yourself. However for N scale you're on the right track, you will need lacquer thinner if you find it needs to be thinner after decanting. And on decanting, give the paint a few minutes to out gas propellant before spraying.

You can hook your existing compressor to a portable tank for about $50 and get air storage of anything from a couple gallons to 10 or even 15. Or not hook it up and use it as is. You could run full pressure right through the tank and mount your regulator at the spray booth fwiw. Just sayin, if you want a tank add a tank.

At the same site they show the H as well for E53 or 55. Just fwiw. You just have to search Paasche siphon is all.

If all you want is a nicer finish on small parts you can just spray them all with spray cans while still on the parts trees. Then touch up with a brush when you pull them off the trees if needed. Or you can just thin your brush paints about 15-20% and continue to brush them. The little bit of thinner will help leveling and flow out, you would be hard pressed to know they weren't sprayed.

Well Don Yost who builds and paints models both commercially and for contests, has won more contests than most of us would ever even enter uses both the Paasche H and the Paasche starter brush which is the H design made from cheaper materials. He has a bigger shop for larger volumes of painting and probably a larger compressor than most of us since he uses the large needle ( the medium is sufficient for our needs) but those are the brushes he uses exclusively to get his award winning finishes from. Follow the master painter, you could do worse and you don't need anything different. That starter set is all of $25 if you over pay for it. But you will need a compressor sooner than later. And the H would be a lifetime investment. I own an H set I use quite a bit. My longest term brush ( 45 years so far) and most used because it naturally fits my hand is the Badger 200. And I have a double action brush I rarely use for car models.

Just me ( barring getting that frame out of there, it might pop out easier than you think depending what glue and how much was used) but I'd spray the floor pans with MM Metallizer aluminum plate buffing, then brush the frame with Stynylrez black primer, and finally spray a single pass of Metalizer clear on it all. That will give you a satin finish. The remaining chassis parts can be sprayed with Stynylrez and also clear coated.

If you didn't go nuts with glue maybe you can still pop the chassis back out of there.

Stynylrez, it's pretty near all I use anymore. Try it, you won't regret it.

Oh very true Force, won't deny that.

Ya the 28 spline axles were the weak link in the 9", at least with slicks. I raced a 67 big block Mustang with slicks and it didn't take long to first twist the splines slightly, then snap the axle. I upgraded the the posi section from detroit locker with 28 splines to the posi with 31 splines and that ended that particular problem.

Course depends which 9" you want to represent but generally speaking the 49 and 50 rear ends are close enough in modelling them. I'm building an AMT 49 now and using the stock rear axle for a street and strip type car. The most notably different 9" is one where the carrier is a nodular iron unit used with 427 Mustangs and such. Besides the nearly indestructible material it also had double webs in the front of the housing with a visible N at the top. Several differences internally that wouldn't matter in a styrene model of course.

You could also get a nailhead from an AMT 40 Ford coupe that has a couple different induction options. So from the 40 Ford sedan you can get a nice Olds engine or from the coupe a Buick.

I built one of those when I was a kid back around 1962 or so and I'm thinking I put in an Olds engine from the AMT 40 Ford sedan. If not I still think it would look nice in there and be period to your year range. It has options of blower, injection or carbs. My choice would be three 2bbl, it was just like the thing to do in that era. I think if I remember right you want a rear sump engine/oil pan for correct clearance to the front axle . I could be wrong, 1960's is a long time ago lol ! A friend of mine back in the mid 60's had a 1/1 1959 and pulled out the 6 and put in a Y block with 3 strombergs on it, small cam, dual exhaust. It may not be much today but back then it seemed like it pulled your sox off with 3:70 gears. Also very period of course but too common if you want something really different. Sounded good too, only warmed over Y blocks have that particular sound.

Well I'm just going by what the owner at my LHS has said. However I did not ask about the spray cans. And he did state the disclaimer that Rustoleum does strange things so you never know for sure...

They aren't going away that we can tell. Some of the Model Master enamel bottles are, in particular the military colors. .

Nice job on that tank, especially for a first effort and with craft paints !! Looks great !

Hah, I just called the LHS and he actually has Metalizer stainless steel in stock. I'll buzz down there for that and see what else came in if anything. Edit: I decided to wait and put an order in elsewhere for a few different Metalizers and ship them all at once, the LHS went up to $5.29 a bottle . But I did buy a 2mm Molotow pen which was priced competitively and I can use on my 49 Ford build basically today. The stainless Metalizer was just a restock item. You never know in that store, some things are priced well and others well over suggested retail.

Just in kind of perusing about online it seems some ebay sellers have the MM blue angel yellow, maybe they have some other colors you want too and can stock up..... fwiw. Also the regular Testors enamels spray pretty much the same as MM enamel. I already mentioned Humbrol. Then if push comes to shove for car finishes you could get a hold of Scalefinishes and he will eventually mix any automotive color you desire in either lacquer or enamel.

Good to know, I get up near there now and then. Online orders wouldn't be far away either.

Thanks. Where are these guys located ?