Dave G.

Junk imo too. Try some custom paint techniques on it, good for practice as mentioned already.

I put the Big T and also the 32 Deuce roadsters together back in the 1960's using plain old Testors model glue, as I recall without issue. I used Pactra glue back then as well. Anyway glue that welds plastic. I still use it today for the most part. I'm about to start a 1/16 scale vintage Mercer kit and will use Testors.

50b should be fine, I'm sure your compressor flows more cfm than most airbrush compressors anyway. Then set your ABR to where ever you need it. Ive shot up to 40lb with Paasche H one time. With varnish that brush and the 5 needle likes 30-35 psi but you aren't using that. My Badger is pretty consistently run around 25 with medium tip. You're probably going to be shooting around 18-24 psi with yours and less with washes. Time will tell ! You can always run a regular compressor hose, or plastic air line for that matter, between the compressor and regulator.

The.2 may work fine on bodies depending what paint you use and how you thin the paint. Try it but I can say I love a .5 on my Badger in general actually and have a .25 as well which I do use.. So I gather they were able to help you out then. Edit: oops didn't see your other post. I'd probably run 50lb to the ab regulator. I've actually run my brushes right off the compressor regulator around 20-25lb. It works but the readings aren't too accurate, nor the regulators real fine. The ab regulators are more sensitive and even out pressure drops better. The ab will still spray though.

Be nice to see an FE Ford in there. Just my opinion.

They have pretty decent tech support there, Mon-Fri pacific time. I don't know if with your airbrush you received any spare needles or nozzles, tips, air caps etc. But the standard needle in that brush is .2 which makes it good for detail work. However if you want to paint overall car bodies I would suggest the extra .5 needle/nozzle set they sell at TCP ( $9.95). Or at least the .3 set if you did not get these in your purchase.. It's nice that for an inexpensive brand all these parts are available, that is not the case with most other non top brands. And it seems they spray well too. I wish you much joy with this airbrush.

I was just recently watching some reviews on Master airbrushes and they seem to review very well. If you contact TCP Global they can get you hooked right up to that compressor and it won't be expensive... You want to get hooked up to a standard compressor quick connect coupler.

It's going to work Scott ! No " if " there. What airbrush are you using ?

Is it so loud you wouldn't want it indoors ? That might change some requirements. And what airbrush do you have ?

It will work. Set the regulator to 50 or so lb, maybe 75 and run a hose into your work area. On the side of your work station or booth put a Point Zero regulator/water trap ( about $11 at Amazon) . The hose goes to the in port, you can get quick connectors at HF, then your AB on the out port. Set this work station regulator to your desired AB pressure setting. It will work great if you really want to deal with gasoline. You can do the same thing with a pancake compressor, or like I have an 8 gal portable. You don't have to have a dedicated AB compressor, you just need a good regulator and an adapter or two. My compressor runs nail guns and lvlp paint spray guns great plus does the AB duty. It is noisy though, not with AB so much because I can paint a whole model on a charge of air, so it doesn't even come on when airbrushing if I build up the supply first. I use my compressor as a portable air tank actually, when airbrushing, I don't even plug it in if it has a full charge.

Harbor Freight sells a blower unit with external motor that might be able to be adapted somehow. We had a new store opening here a few weeks ago and saw it then, sorry no link. I was in there buying a 6x48 belt sander belt.

Most of the shop vacs I've encountered have the motor mounted up to where the brushes and any sparks would be located outside the canister. Not sure on the Dewalt that guy used. But if you think about it, either way you are trapping fumes inside a multi gallon closed container basically creating a bomb. Especially if it didn't evacuate fully and got shut down, then later turned back on with the fumes concentrated in there. Get this, in the early 70's when I was a young mechanic I worked for a shop foreman who washed the shop floor with gasoline. He figured having the garage door open was sufficient and so did I, for me to go out through and take a walk far from the building. He never blew the place up but he did die from a heart attack at age 62. It's one thing to do spots with a little gas on a rag, another to dump 2 gallons of gas out on the floor and start scrubbing with a shop broom.

Most car models can be painted with any of the three tips actually. Even the #1 is larger than some people use in other brand brushes. Depends on the thinner used and ratio.

If you're buying the Paasche H and entertaining any thoughts at all of using the #5 tip and needle then I would urge you to buy a compressor with a tank on it. Those CAT compressors are good, so are the Paasche but in that line you should get the one with a tank, which I believe is around $150 last I knew.. Incidentally the CAT compressor has the universal quick disconnect chuck on it. That plugs to a conventional hose nipple which is 1/4". Amazon sells a Paasche to 1/4 adapter then you can just use a regular conventional style air hose nipple with that to connect to the compressor. I have those in both Badger and Paasche because I use an 8 gal portable compressor that I have here for household " stuff".

I'd be curious if it would have stuck to Stynylrez primer, that's the only primer I use anymore.

Ya it brushes pretty nice except for free hand pin striping. Better off with traditional enamel for that, at least in my experience, using the right kind of brush and some mineral spirits..

Are you spraying the hardware store variety of craft Testors acrylics or Testors Model Master acryl ? I've had great luck with MM and heat setting it. Doing that it's in pretty good shape the next day for further steps. You need to prime though, MM won't stick to plastic on it's own worth beans ( most acrylics don't except Liquitex soft body, that does pretty well). For me that's fine because I prime with Badger Stynylrez primers anyway regardless of what the color coat will be... I also scuff body parts further increasing bond. Anyway, MM acryl lays down and flows out real nice in my experience. And it produces a pretty hard finish when fully cured and put down on a good primer. Again in my experience. Others opinions may vary.

Wow , I'll stop watching thread for a while.

Seems as though you should be taking delivery real soon here.

In this schematic it shows the proper oil filter housing at least, I wonder if someone just glued the filter to the block on the model without knowing better.. The ears on the exhaust side of the heads need to be more prominent. But yes that is an fe in this picture by the looks of it. edit: oops,I missed the filter shown going to the block. In front of that on the front cover appears to be the fuel pump and that would be the correct location for an fe fuel pump. It's still an fe layout but the oil filter mount is incorrect, there should be a housing to mount it to. The fe filter sits vertical not horizontal,.

$108 on Amazon Prime, free shipping. And I think I saw it for $89 at Amazon in another add there.

If that's an fe it's a really poor rendition.. Maybe someone has a 390 or 428 from a Revell kit they wouldn't mind parting with.

Acrylic paint cut to a wash in a combo of ipa and water will work, I use that sometimes in my wood turnings then clear coat. Rit dye will work. I also have solvent based stains here but sometimes I just want a paint color that acts like stain. Also tea will work for a lighter stain, I've done that but it was so long ago no clue how I went about it now. The wood may be bass wood..

For Kit Basher, here is the AutoAir video;

I bet is has a cool setting with no heat output, my wifes does. Auto Air has a leveler too, I forget the number off hand, you really want that and the thinner/reducer. There is an instructional video online where a rep takes you through the steps. I think I ran into it under a search something like "airbrushing AutoAir paints" or some such thing.