Dave G.

I've had Testors glue for clear parts hold chrome parts on pretty well.

Just bouncing off your post here Charlie. I've done several base coats in craft paint, over the right primer and thinned with the right thinner they work great imo ( requires clear coat). Most of my interiors are craft paint or another acrylic with various combos of Liquitex varnish in them and or over them. Now and then I break out Tamiya acrylic or Vallejo. For me they ( craft paint) both spray good and brush good, they aren't expensive so that's all a win. Not to mention my recently passed on wife artist had about 100 colors in stock here, not to mention artist acrylics. Works great for me. Expensive isn't always better if you know how to use a product needed for the chore. However if you want perfect match without mixing etc. then it's hard to beat the aftermarket scale paints for that ( though costly, dig deeper into the wallet lol). But you sometimes can't escape the thought of a fool and his money in some cases, in other words spending more isn't " always gain" especially if a fixed income leaves options slim. And then on the other hand in my case I'd have been foolish not to learn the ways of acrylic paints since so many were available to me that we already stocked in the house.. Honestly I recently painted a 1/16 scale Model A in MCW lacquer and in no way did it come out any better than craft paint and lacquer clear coat,not at all. And between the paint and shipping it was nearly $18 vs $1 for craft paint but of course the color was dead on.. I can honestly say Never Again, it simply isn't that magical ! Not to mention relatively inexpensive lacquer nail polishes from places like Walmart.

I've always liked a silver base coat under blue metallic, your results show why.

As I recall most AMT kits as I first came on the model car scene ( was into planes and ships earlier on) were $1.25 and they rose to $1.50. I don't recall the cost of Monogram kits which is funny ( though I may have been independently wealthy by then on that paper route so didn't care lol) because I built enough of them. I started modeling at 7- 8yo, that would have been 1957-58.........

It's a long time ago !! But I was thinking as I typed that message I thought there was a $.12 figure. I'm pretty sure I remember Testors spray cans at $.50 too but it quickly rose.

Steve, you were rich !! My allowance was $.35. But then I got a paper route with 108 customers and I had multi whole dollars to work with ( mostly tip money) !

I remember when Testors bottles went from $.10 to $.15 thinking it was highway robbery. By the way, I don't find MCW lacquer any easier to spray than Testors enamel. I can put down Testors and see myself in the finish when done, MCW still has a few hours of buffing to do. I never liked hot automotive acrylic lacquers for model cars, nitrocellulose lacquer is much shinier out of the airbrush, if it needs buffing at all it's a simple task and it's less likely to crack due to flexing of plastic parts. Non of those issues with enamels either. MCW can keep their lacquers at $10 or more a bottle plus shipping. Might be great for flat finishes but model cars take too much after work once dried. I gave them a shot and don't like them at all for cars. For one thing when I mix my own lacquers I use a slower thinner than they do, I posted at FB a message asking them if I could get their automotive colors with the slower thinner they use in the military paints, no reply. I might try their enamels though.

I went on an old railroader site a while back and a bunch of them were discussing craft paints. Model Railroaders always find a way anyway. I remember back when Floquil went out and I was doing some railroad modeling back then, using a lot of flats and primers in spray cans off the hardware store shelves. And a little Scale Coat here and there. There is always a way.

I started embracing acrylics 3-4 years ago now so I'm about 90% off of stinky paints anyway at this point, unless I order custom made from MCW or someone. Then when the Model Master line was wiped out I just pretty much figured Testors enamels would be gone at some point. But so many things, so many names and brands are gone that were staples in America and elsewhere when I was growing up in the 1950's and 60's it's just no surprise. Pretty much don't get too comfortable with much of anything.

I do something similar to Steve when I use acrylic paints for washes but make the washes quite a lot thinner, then mop up with a tissue. You can get creative with colors, good to have is tans ( earth colors),raw umber, burnt umber, sienna, gold or copper with a very fine fleck in it and black. Armed with these you can simulate dirt, a little oil residue, radiator spill or hose weepage, traces of rust etc. Not to mention shadowing for firewalls etc as mentioned. I never leave the under hood area bare paint, even if just a very light duty wash will bring realism and depth. I also use artist acrylic paints and as mentioned in my first post those transluscent stains ( my go to presently). Black artist acrylic thinned way down does a great job on a grill wash to shadow the recesses. And artist acrylics have more flex and stick than craft paints to hang onto chrome with. Artist oils are good too but can get expensive and of course now odorless mineral spirits becomes the agent of choice instead of water or water/alcohol mix.

Well all that depends on what type of paint you used and the type of wash you want to use. I recently brush painted an engine with craft paint over stynylrez primer and did oil wash onto it directly with no clear coat. When I do clear an engine I use either the lacquer used on the old Model Master Metalizer paints or I mix a concoction of Liquitex varnishes which are available in matt, satin and gloss. But I think this engine I will leave as is, which is often the case for me. Once it's in the chassis it will never be touched again only by eye sight lol ! So what is there really to protect it from ? It was actually oil based stains I used which go right over acrylic paint, least mine do.

My experience with hot lacquers over Stynylrez is as mentioned to apply light coats at least initially. If you go too wet too quickly I personally have experienced some light sand scratch swelling. But even then just let dry, lightly scuff and reshoot a lighter coat and all has been well. I doubt the hobby lacquers would do that. I've had no issue with Tamiya acrylic thinned with lacquer thinner either. Nor with enamels. The sand scratch swell I got was sporadic and not heavy fwiw. Enamels go on fine thinned with enamel reducer, Mineral Spirits or lacquer thinner, no issue at all. No issue with lacquer over craft paints either with Stynylrez primer.

The orange tube Testors isn't as aggressive as it once was, I bet you can get that windshield out fine. Then sand and polish as mentioned. As a final step you could dip it into some Pledge Floor care if you have that on hand. I glue my clear parts in with Testors black bottle glue made for clear parts ( be careful because they have a black bottle for regular parts that is stronger than orange tube, don't mistake that for clear parts glue).. In my experience it grips better than plain white glue to plastic parts but has a similar look if a bit thicker.

I used Krylon primer years ago but people have said they changed the formula since then. The light grey went on thinnest. I don't recall any problems but if the formula has changed then all bets are off.

Ps is for poly-carbonate plastic, usually clear and flexible like on RC cars. And honestly that's all I know about it.

Mostly I just prime, except to fix the obvious things first of course. I used to scuff with pads 400-600ish grit but not since the multi day stripping I experienced when I decided to change colors mid build. Sheesh, Stynylrez primer sticks well without scuffing, never had anything lift.

I'm with Snake on that, my exact thought actually. If you do want to brush it you thin the paint and do it in a couple of coats and that very much helps lose the brush marks. What you thin with depends on the paint used.

Washer fluid is about 40% methyl alcohol ( or methanol ), water and a touch of detergent. Some craft acrylics like that alcohol, others ipa, others no alcohol. What washer fluid doesn't have is retarder in it and that greatly aids in fighting tip dry. Just sayin

Mike, I tried to PM you don't know if you got it. Hope so, it's about 5 paragraphs long lol !

DecoArt will curdle or even gel up depending on the alcohol type and quantity. Straight alcohol isn't the answer with craft paints anyway though.

I may pm you tomorrow rather than carry on here.

I only ever dry scuff acrylics fwiw, usually with steel wool.

I see, sorry about that.

Actually Contact MCW, he will mix anything not just what you see in the listing. And once he mixes it he will add that to his listings.