
Dave G.
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Everything posted by Dave G.
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Well we see it through a glass darkly so to speak, you see it directly and in person. What's wrong with it ?
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The primer coat is beautiful and yes I agree on the panel lines !
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Dumb question about Stynylrez primer
Dave G. replied to Monty's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
I use a Paasche H, #3 tip and generally a metal side cup to spray my Stynylrez. 23-25 psi. That #3 is a .7 fwiw. I've shot it both thinned and unthinned depending on my goal. But I've shot the stuff with a .5 many times in my Badger 200, even now and then for some fine work through a .25. Just sayin. The only time I've ever had anything like glop, it was off the rim of the Stynylrez bottle and worst part is I thought I saw it go into the mixing bottle from the pipette but dumb me continued on anyway, old dried paint. And don't let it freeze, it can't handle getting frozen. One last thing, don't return thinned paint back to the bottle. I've had that backfire later on as the bottle gets older and lower in content.. I've never shot the stuff through a DA brush though. I usually use the H, it's my go to for that primer. And hey if your thinner turns the primer to glop in the mixing cup don't spray it ! Try Badgers suggestion. But if it looks like glop coming out of your bottle then maybe it did go bad. -
Dumb question about Stynylrez primer
Dave G. replied to Monty's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Did you really mix the Stynlyrez well ? I use Kleen Strip. However I've gotten reports of where lacquer thinner in some parts of the country in order to meet standards there is mostly acetone. I don't believe mine is, it doesn't smell like acetone. I just shot white Stynylrez Sunday thinned nearly 50/50 with Kleen Strip, came out fine. Just so you know, Badgers own recommendation is to thin it slightly with water. They don't suggest thinning at all but if you are compelled to then use water they say. I've done that too,it works but was more grainy when dry than with LT.. As to an alcohol based product like washer fluid I've shot stynylrez with IPA and with DNA and IPA worked better. All washer fluid is is methanol and water mixed together with a little dye in it. Basically a Methanol type alcohol and water. -
Dumb question about Stynylrez primer
Dave G. replied to Monty's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
I initially flush Stynylrez out of the airbrush with warm water. Then switch to 91 IPA and flush and back flush several times till I see no more residue, then flush with cool water. It's tough stuff though. Back flushing is key at least for me. I don't tear the brush down very often ( I prime with the Paasche H and #3 tip) but when I do I generally don't find much of anything in that rather large needle or tip,where I will if I'm sloppy about my back flushing. If you're using internal mix double action that may be different. I've never used one for this primer that I can recall. -
Dumb question about Stynylrez primer
Dave G. replied to Monty's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Stynylrez takes enamels to it very well. Not sure where TAM gets rubbery from but then I cut my Stynylrez with a little lacquer thinner and often heat set it in my dehydrator. To me it can be dry scuffed in less than two hours if it needs any scuffing at all. And I've never gotten rubbery even when shot straight from the bottle. What I will say though is as it sits on a shelf for extended periods it will separate ( many paint do). And it's a separation that no amount of shaking will put 100% back together again, even if it looks good in the bottle. I use a Badger power mixer and in less than two minutes all is well. I've shot lacquer over it as well. If you put down the first coat too wet with hot lacquer you can ( not always) get a little sand scratch swelling, that needs scuffed out then continue as usual. I'm not a hot lacquer fan anyway and since the topic is enamel you have no worries of that happening even if you thin enamel with lacquer thinner, as I often have. Also hobby lacquers and Tamiya acrylic thinned with lacquer thinner go down over Stynlrez beautifully. Hope any of this helps and my grammar passes inspection lol. -
Nitrile or nitrite Clean Strip is a medium thinner, it says it right on the can in very fine print. Non the less at it's price point I'd be surprised if it didn't have at least some acetone in it. I usually cut it up to 50% with Xylene to slow it down a little more if I use it as thinner except in enamel paint where it's fine straight out of the can. I mostly use it as cleaner though.
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You might want a bit more tape if it's gonna be out in the wind. Let us know how it goes.
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The thing is if you go in thinking you're just gonna knock something out and be done you will get frustrated. It's like hand rod wrapping a new fly rod blank with all the wire guides and thread, if you figure on getting just 3 or maybe 4 done in a sitting, next thing you know by the end of a week you're putting the finish coat on it all.
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I doubt the motors in these have an open spark anyway. They may not be sealed but that shouldn't matter much if the filters are sufficient to keep the solids from plugging up the works.
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I've shot it too and pop it in the dehydrator for an hour or two and not much odor after that. Not around the house anyway,you can smell it some if you stick your nose near it.. I was just curious if that style booth could move the heavy enamel over spray out ok.
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Will that booth evacuate enamel spray paints like Rustoleum 2x Ultra ? No sweat if it won't, just curious is all.
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Speaking of household fans that Pete mentioned, I've done that too ( not saying Pete has but I have). They make a double fan accordion setup for instance, you just open the window install that and close the window on it. It has to face out, then you spray right in front of it. Bigger diameter single fans probably do better but you really should put up temp baffles on each side for it to be most effective. If you paint near the fan it will get everything out of the room pretty quickly. Just sayin, I've done it and it works. Granted it's not a permanent booth but one can make due nicely this way. I did this when first married and renting many many moons ago now shooting enamels for cars and Floquil for railroad equipment. And really that's all any old time paint room ever had in 1/1. Don Yost still does this in his basement paint room painting his award winning finishes almost always in enamel,uses an extraction fan. We simply back in the day called them exhaust fans around these parts. The key is to baffle or shroud it in a housing of sorts even if makeshift.
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I have to admit being a Molotow fan if you can figure out how to apply it on tiny things, it's perfect imo.. I have success and then not so much, but then at 71 I'm lucky to see it much less hit it square anymore. That's part of why I like 1/16 scale. But my chances of seeing the details goes way up if I stay of the danged computer ! I bet Molotow works for ya though. Just sayin.
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Handheld Airbrush/Compressor Unit
Dave G. replied to Straightliner59's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Airbrushes take a degree of cleaning and care period. Now you have one I assume you have to charge up too ? Not to burst your bubble mind you, if it gets you airbrushing then wonderful. You know where it would be good though is remote, where you can't or don't want to run a cord or drag out an air tank. -
*Paint/Gloss Finish Testing*
Dave G. replied to Zippi's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Ya set it up on it's side just like a booth. Get your body mounted on something you can hand hold. I grab a bottle or something and roll a piece of tape into a circle, and tape the body to the top. Now I can hand hold the bottle and shoot down on the body at the same angle for all sides and the top surfaces too. -
*Paint/Gloss Finish Testing*
Dave G. replied to Zippi's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Get yourself a good sized box and use that kind of like a spray booth. I know it's not one but it will shield the wind from three sides and you should be able to spray on a breezy day. Get it up off the ground so grass and stuff won't blow into it.. -
*Paint/Gloss Finish Testing*
Dave G. replied to Zippi's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Looking good. Now what ? -
*Paint/Gloss Finish Testing*
Dave G. replied to Zippi's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
You need a lid on that container. -
*Paint/Gloss Finish Testing*
Dave G. replied to Zippi's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Another thing you could try since you're scuffing and experimenting anyway, is scuff it smooth then squirt on another couple of wet coats. Let dry and buff it up. You only need to go to 3500 or so to try that, least in in my experience anyway.. -
Antique parchment is very close to ivory, both have some yellow and who knows what else in them ( well probably a hint of blue or green). Parchment is not a pure white, I agree it might look it when paired next to a contrasting color. I started out with antique parchment to mix the color for the wheels on my 31 Ford roadster kit ( to make that creamy yellow they had).
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*Paint/Gloss Finish Testing*
Dave G. replied to Zippi's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Too much work for me to salvage that, it would be in the purple pond right now. -
I airbrush craft paints for 90% of my interiors or for that matter cut it with a little water or my thinner I make up and brush it. Apple Barrel has an Antique Parchment, they might have a straight parchment too, never looked. Vallejo has a series of earth tones too I use for canvas and such sometimes. I haven't used enamel on interiors in decades.
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*Paint/Gloss Finish Testing*
Dave G. replied to Zippi's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
You can do the same with the Tamiya clear.Put down a moderate coat and two progressively heavier coats, let that flash then lay on two good full wet coats that will pop the shine. Heat setting that I find to increase the gloss. Same with their clear colors, in fact maybe even more so with the clear colors ( they really like to shine after 15 minutes in the dehydrator at 108f). Then just buff it up if there is a slight haze when dry. I rarely sand the Tamiya clear but my desires may be different than yours. The thing about Tamiya acrylic is it actually is a hybrid acrylic/lacquer,not to be confused with solvent based automotive acrylic lacquer which I am not at all a fan of on plastic models. Even their solid colors perform well. I've never polished Model Master enamel, course that's gone now but it used to level out like glass. The regular little Testors bottles aren't bad but Model Master to me was a cut above those. Both alkyd enamel I believe. Also as long as there is enough clear coat on the surface to not rub through, any of those first samples you posted should polish up fine. Congrats on finding the key with the Rustoleum. It's probably going to mute out slightly overnight but it will polish right back up and that will last..