Dave G.

I've seen awesome results from sprayed Molotow but haven't tried that method personally. I doubt it's going to somehow magically improve dead product if the stuff is bad in the pen to begin with. That said, Molotow has a certain brightness to it that doesn't really suit my antique and classic cars I like to build. I use it for side chrome on some other builds but will continue to look for something more suited to classic era cars ( 1900's-40 on up to 1957 or 58 or so factory stock) . AK exreme metal stainless steel is of interest presently. And I haven't checked out the Mr line of metals yet. MM buffing metals has left a hole unfilled thus far ,imo.

I've heard of the pens going dull obviously from the thread above but elsewhere too. You're gonna try and shoot it anyway ? The resin is resin, wash, prime etc. accordingly.

I just use the pens thus far over something gloss. Could be semi gloss base color, could be clear color or gloss color etc .

I watched some reviews on this stuff yesterday and it looks promising. And they have a copper metal that looks to come out convincing, not everyone does but some of my old cars I like to built in 1/16 and 1/24 have some copper pieces in them. So that's encouraging to me.

Your approach would be my choice and do the slices. A simple slice top and bottom takes very little filler to smooth it all out.

Hi Charles ! I've mostly just picked up single must have items from Centerline but yes I've been there. Years ago back when the kids were still home I bought some HO train items through them.

Ya know, it's not that you shouldn't prime a model anyway but one thing in common between acrylic paints is you really need to prime. They stick to primer very well but not so hot to plastic. And that's fairly generic between acrylic brands with few exceptions. Stynylrez primer is an awesome primer to use under acrylic paints. It gives an exceptional bond and is also a primer/sealer.

Came out great !

You can get the X-Acto Razor saw set at Michaels for $13.99, grab a coupon you will get it for about $9 or so. Comes with two blades a wide and narrow. You will have it for the rest of your life. As I mentioned have had mine since the 1960's. Hobby Lobby has them too, saw them there a couple of weeks ago but didn't see the price, they are usually quite competitive.

Since about 1960 I've done fine with a razor saw like those shown here by others

N series cartridges are not organic solvent rated.

I've done possibly tons of enamels and or lacquer in my day with organic vapor masks, still do on the models. Different animal than catalyzed paints even if you add a catalyst to the enamel. In catalyzed paints they don't harden with out it and and won't not harden with it, it's a good third of the blend when you do add it. And it will harden inside or outside your lungs and can enter through your skin and eyes. And it's cumulative, you don't expire it all by hacking it up. You might get some up but it goes beyond that, It eats lung tissue and hardens there as part of it. No thanks ! What gets me is people freak over a virus or mold spores, then play with this cause it's shiny lol !

Yep, I wasn't kidding when I mentioned that earlier in the thread. The warnings are real, they aren't kidding. We got all the latest literature and work shop materials when I shot commercially in 1/1. We shot with proper gear which is a toss away paper coverall basically and a positive feed fresh air hood for you head. Nitrile gloves, the suit has elastic tension cuffs. The hood covers your head to the shoulders, the air feed is in the rear and 1-2 psi or there abouts blows out an opening in front of the eyes. Basically positive pressure and cool fresh air circulates inside Back in my day they were a bit different than this but same idea:

What you say is my exact reasoning for not using the stuff. It's also why I got out of refinishing 1/1. That said, I still do use a respirator for general solvent paints too, mostly due to sinus trouble I have. I use N95 masks for acrylic but the organic vapor respirator for solvent based paints. It's no big deal to me I used them for 35 years in 1/1,use the N95 in wood working, either way I'm putting a mask on. . But when those catalyzed paints came along and pressure masks etc, I just back off 1/1 to bumper repairs, door panel repairs and such on commercial trucks then got out all together. Honestly, I like building model classic era cars and to my eye plain old alkyd synthetic enamels still gives a very traditional finish on them if sprayed right. A custom might get clear or clear colors over silver or gold base for instance. But lacquer works fine for that or even Tamiya acrylic. They polish up great for me. I'm not bringing 2K into my house and hobby.

It's really not over kill because the dangers in 2k can enter through your eyes as well. Edit: that goes for mixing the paint and during the curing process, not just the spray process.

I just use thinned and brushed on craft paint. And generally follow up with an oil wash anyway so it doesn't much matter. I have a little bit of MM Aluminum Plate Buffing left, maybe half a bottle that I'm saving for something more important than a muffler. Edit: I wanted to add that first, with craft paint the parts need primed and I use black just fwiw ( don't ask on the black it's just how I do it but you do need primer to make a good bond). And secondly I have sprayed the craft paint with the Paasche H but I just choose to brush. I know the thread is about spray cans so discard info if not interested but someone might be.

Just on another note any lacquer can haze when shot in high humidity. Around here today would be a good day to paint as humidity dropped overnight but yesterday the dew point was 74deg. Forget that for lacquer.

I simply wipe down my bodies with a paper towel wet with odorless mineral spirits. Sometimes I scuff the model with a 2500, 3000 or 3500 grit 2x2 soft touch mesh pad depending on the body. I used alcohol for the wipe down for a while but since switching to Stynylrez primer for whatever reason it goes better with the mineral spirits, so I switched back to that.. I give the model a quick wipe down with tissues but then blow it off immediately before painting anyway.No tack cloth just air. Resin bodies need the dish soap imo. Nothing wrong with dish soap anyway, I just been doing it this way basically forever with styrene.

This should be encouraging news for anyone who has hesitated buying one of these assuming their windshield frame would be in pieces. I won't be starting the kit just yet, If I do I'll never finish my 1/16 31 roadster project that has it's own issue I'm working on. But I do think I will do a wash on that 57 grill so I can see the real effect of it with that background chrome blackened out. That will be my little first step made into this kit. Course once I get there I will see the valve covers hubcaps need treating etc. I'm sure.

Maybe AMT smartened up ! I've seen the videos with them broken but I don't recall seeing any bracing either. I was pleasantly surprised to open my 57's box and see both the bracing and that frame in tact.

Windshield packaged bracing.

I'm wondering if that's a new bit of mold to add in those braces. The frame is supported pretty well. Course now I get to cut those away without breaking the frame lol ! I know the 55 had no such bracing, it was just hanging out there in the open to get busted. I assume this 57 is new production not old stock. Maybe there is hope for others.

Thanks, I didn't even try to resist lol !

The 57 windshield is braced, and it was perfect. I wasn't even going to open the kit right away but I had to see that. And the braces are reasonably substantial,two up from the lower frame area and a center one spanning back to the rear of the cockpit. Also the WS frame and body are not warped. The body in the box sits lower than the Chrome parts tree next to it as well. With the 55 Bird the body is nearly up top of the heap of plastic. It's typical AMT with molded in seat and molded in parts of the chassis to bottom but at least has separate suspension. The pleating on the seat looks decent. Mostly I want top view and 312 engine to dominate anyway. The X portion of the frame and exhaust too are glue ins, the chassis actually is better than I anticipated though. I might build it top on even, not sure yet. The hubcap detail is very good, grill quite good. I'm gonna enjoy this, it's very difficult not to start on it now that I've seen it but I just have too much at the bench to clear up. They should retool the 55 and package it better then re introduce that, I'd buy one. They should do 1/16 50's era full size Ford too. All we see in 50's these days for 1/16 is Chevy and few of those. The 55 Chevy convertible is on my list too.

So I happened into Hobby Lobby today after meeting my daughter and husband for breakfast. I've been playing with decanted enamels again and came up with this great light turquoise and thinking how appropriate for a 50's car. So there it was at HL an AMT 1/16 57 T Bird. Then I glanced up and saw the sign 40% off all model kits through June 5th no coupon required. So I got the1/16 57 for $25. I've got models on the bench and more waiting but didn't care at that price. I almost bought an airplane too but held back. When I got home I checked out paint charts for the T Bird and all I need to do is lighten my decanted paint a little with some white and it will be dead on. It wouldn't even be bad as is.