Dave G.

I use a couple of things. One and I even shoot bodies with this, is an empty bottle ( aclipse chewing gum bottle, tums bottle, I've used inverted party cups hand held etc),maybe put a little dirt or some stones in the bottom of the bottle for ballast, course that won't work for the cup . I form a circle of blue tape sticky side out and tape that to the top, then stick the part to that. The second is wooden barbecue skewers with parts attached by various means to include my circle of tape method to the side of the end of the stick ( dirt cheap at the grocery store, but there is a bag of them in two sizes in my kitchen anyway.).. I use the skewers as paint mixing sticks too.

SOHC got banned at Nascar back in the day. So they beat half or more of the competition anyway with the pushrod engines. Nascar also banned the Ford 427 pushrod high rise iteration, so they did it with medium rise. Heck the 406 Ford was mopping up before that. It was Ford or Chrysler hemis back and forth race after race. The over head cam would have totally mopped up thus the banning. Chevy back then mostly blew up at nascar. Ran great till they popped. But eventually the CID restriction came in and leveled all the playing field.

I'd mix my own from craft paints, I use craft paints the most for engines personally. Not saying you should and you did put in your request for hobby paint. But that Chevy grey/blue you almost can't miss on unless you want "the" absolute original brand new factory paint color. Those engines got rebuilt a lot and ended up with all sorts of blues on them. Seems to me my own 55 had a mid blue on it. Got yanked to put a 327 in it anyway and that was a long time ago so my impression could be whacked..

I don't have the kit in front of me but I'd think there would be plenty of room for a quad or dual quad setup on a standard riser manifold.

I wondered but nice job anyway, cause we all know decals don't always lay down perfectly either. I'm not even a 49 Merc fan and like it. I did build one many moons ago but as I recall used the flathead.

Well as I said, rear sump oil pans were used. So was external oiling on certain iterations ( couple of hoses out the side to an oil tank). So if you turn the pan around don't let someone tell you it's wrong. The FE should be a nice fit.

Ouch, I had drive the demons out of my house when I read this lol !! Seriously looks great in there. But I really like the idea of the FE, only because I built so many in 1/1 and raced with a couple of them back in my day in the drag race apple cart. As long as it's not the typical Chevy small block that is so common it's boring even though a great engine ( I've built my share of those too in my time). The red stripes on the engine kill me,that's touch I wouldn't even attempt. Nice clean build !

,Hah, I have a 49 Ford in the same situation, though not chopped and all.But it just got out of hand non the less lol !

I imagine the biggest issue would be the front sump oil pan and Mercs cross member,steering links etc.. But if it helps plenty of FE engine builders in the day did a rear sump conversion just fwiw. Fe engines in heavy trucks too had a long pickup from the front oil pump more rearward reaching. I know I worked on enough of them. A big Part of keeping the performance FE alive was keeping it oiled. On my own Mustang with 390 FE I opted to go down with the front sump which added 3 quarts of oil. Then drop some holly carb jets in the rocker arm feeder holes to restrict oil flow up top ( 1970's trickery to keep the valve covers from robbing oil to cam and crank in a nose high launch at the track at 6200 rpm lol). 5800-6000 is safer but they still needed oil. These weren't 8000 rpm engines, bore to stroke ratio was wrong for that but they had tons of grunt for the launch for it's day.

Boss 427 is modern techno talk for a stroker Boss 351 done up as a 427. The 427 FE is one of the Ford factory legends but not a so called cammer, it's a push rod engine. Came in a few iterations and configurations.

By the way, in that time it still won't be fully cured but safe to handle etc.

A few days to a week for safe handling and building, unless you have a dehydrator or paint drying box.

Really the candy coat is a form of clear, just tinted to give the translucent candy color. .

If you want to do anything just take some Formula 1 Scratch out and polish what you have there. Or just leave it alone. I've never been disappointed with Scratch out though, as in it never goes too far.

I'm only going to say this one more time ? the green label with black chair Rustoleum lacquer goes on smooth and polishes easy. Hot acrylic lacquer is never easy imo. Looks like you got more polishing to do there unless you're happy stopping there. Honestly I'd just rather shoot it down with Testors bottled enamels thinned with LT, 3 coats you're done with possibly no polishing and no clear coat. Shoot and run. Decanted Rustoleum 2X enamel will do the same thing. And enamel doesn't blush in less than ideal humidity. Just sayin, look at this link or video whichever shows up:

Exactly, welcome to the O F club of modelers lol ! I really enjoy the classics era cars. Especially 1/24 and 1/16. 1957 down to 1911 or so but especially 30's. Modern does 0 for me. Same for other categories of models too.

So they're building models of things they see probably like what's in their video games. Makes sense because I honestly never saw any sense in gundam, citadel etc models. But I'm 71yo so the transistor radio was a big deal when I was yoooung, there were no electronic devises. Telephones had operators and a two party line was an upgrade. When single came along Single was amazing. I remember in school some kids took on a project in about the 5th grade maybe. It ended up being two girls and myself at one of the girls homes, once another boy showed up and we built a model of a nuclear power plant. The two girls moms kind of directed the activity. But that's about as abstract or to me imaginative a thing I ever got involved in regarding models, cause honestly nuclear power plants weren't even on my radar but the girls were starting to get bumps on their chests and stuff.. But the offer went out for anyone interested in model, to which I was. At that the girls had more enthusiasm than I ever did over it and I was a modeler but of cars, trucks, ships, airplanes.

Let us know how you make out.

I shoot it at 23-25 psi, 25 static, 23 flowing. Or there abouts. Have you ever thinned some of this then returned the unused remainder to the bottle ? A little leaven ruins the whole loaf theory. Water filter in your airline ? As I said except a hickup here or there mine goes on smooth, when I want it thinner I've settled on LT then it lays down even more satin smooth. Best I got for ya except to maybe contact Badger.

Keep us updated on that one, interesting !

Have you changed your distance so it's not going down as wet. And I assume you mean that straight from the bottle it normally shoots fine through that airbrush ? But now is nubby or fuzzy requiring sanding etc ? You might just need to ensure it goes on wetter than in winter, this time of year. I shot white two days ago straight from the bottle and it came out fine. When I thin it I use lacquer thinner these days, goes on real smooth, on the 1/16 Model A fenders I shot last fall or so there was a sheen to it.. Tried water I think last year or maybe two it looked fine wet but dried rough to the touch, a quick scuff with 000 or 3000 grit fixed that. The only other time it went fuzzy was on a 39 Ford sedan roof, I think I just moved too fast on a fairly warm day with dew point in the low 60's. But 000 fixed that.

The green can with black chair Mike ? I've use that in my wood working and on models over craft acrylics and artist acrylics with no issue at all. And it buffs up super easy. These days though I've mostly been using Tamiya X-22 through the H on a body finish if any clear at all.. Someone mentioned clear over Tamiya X-1 black, on old classic cars that stuff is great as is, it doesn't need clear just buff it up. I can't speak on Createx though, still haven't used it probably never will. We each have our own ways and systems though.

I wouldn't be too quick to condemn the airbrush, keep it clean, polish up the needle especially out at the tip end ( the other end doesn't matter) and make sure your seals are good. If your visible spray pattern is good with plain water or thinner it will lay paint down good too. I think your issue is more getting a consistent mix, so if the airbrush is spraying water etc good, you need to thin to where the paint comes out similarly. Go by viscosity not just ratio 50/50 is a starting point that with some paints is dead on and others still pretty far off. It can vary between brands of paint, even colors or matt vs gloss. Your goal is to wipe some thinned paint up the side of your mixing cup with a mixing stick and have it return to the pool below in 1-3 seconds or so and leave a film behind as it goes, do that before you even try a test pattern through the airbrush. If it returns real fast and leaves no film it's too thin, add a dash more paint. And you may need to adjust a little bit for the washer fluid. In 1/1 we used a viscosity cup for enamels. Even in that scale some enamels ran through the cup with very little thinner ( it was a timed flow through a certain size orifice), others 40% thinner. After a while with a cup you get to know just by how it run off the mixing stick how the paint will perform through the gun and hit the surface. That was part of the drill so to speak,the other part was knowing the thinners used according to condition ( temp and humidity). Then lacquers were another affair and acrylic enamels a whole host of additive.

Should be fine with their acrylic thinner. Denatured alcohol should work too, just wipe some on a clear parts tree someplace to check first but it will thin the paint fine, I use it often in Tamiya acrylics. I wouldn't use the LT either, maybe someone else will chime in and say otherwise but I wouldn't risk it personally.

A little too much washer fluid will do it,the paint will pool and such. Washer fluid is a bit more runny than a blend of isopropyl and water will be. Gloss too might flow a bit more than matte or satin. For most craft paints I prefer a blend I make up of iso, water,retarder and a flow aid. It sprays a bit more like solvent paints IMO. I have washer fluid too, it woks but is a second choice, like in DecoArt for instance, that paint doesn't like iso and can even gel up but you can use washer fluid which has methanol in it not iso. Or in DecoArt you can use a mix of airbrush medium and water. Actually you can use that in any craft paint . Just for some, like Apple Barrel, FolkArt ,Craft Smart, Delta Ceramcoat, I've found basically superior results with the iso blend. I have three airbrushes, my car stuff and primers I mostly use the Paasche H. Fine stuff I tend to go with my pushing 50 yo Badger 200 with the .25 tip on it. I like it for metalizer type paints too. Got that as a gift back around 1975, had been using a Badger starter airbrush before that. Then my double action is an Iwata knock off , once I polished up all the needles to that one it shoots nearly as nice as my Badger, if I only had it I could live with it fine but the tips are tiny, very fussy on being clean, the 200 and H are better suited to my 71 yo eyes and dexterity lol. But it does work, well plus I'm not a big fan of double action except in 1/1 spray guns with triggers and in firearms. Just sayin.