Dave G.

Well there is also the coupe kit. So really 3 in all.

Ya with acrylic it's basically the particulates you blow outside.While spraying acrylic a simple N95 is really sufficient. But unseen particulates linger in the air for a time, you can find your nose hairs getting stuck so to speak. I get sinus infections easy so I'd rather shoot it into a trash can or booth. A booth will handle that as well as any stink to which there isn't much and very short lived. Simple household cleaning agents are stronger and most women use those and don't say a word about it. Half the time it boils down to what the husband is doing, doesn't much matter what it is but that will disturb them. Acrylics really don't stink,period. But they/women can make a fuss anyway. Although they think nothing of their nail polish for those who use it. I was very fortunate with my wife of 47 years, she loved paint, didn't mind the smell,helped mask mask primed 1/1 cars in my shop when I had it, was an artist herself. so I have 0 complaints but I know some guys pay hell to do anything. In my case the paint bothered me more than her, but not acrylic.

Somewhere out there in youtube land is a video on fine tuning those airbrushes like you have, a good part of it is polishing the needle, so nothing drastic. I polish my needles on internal mix airbrushes anyway, it tends to smooth out droplet uniformity and pattern. Air pressure for craft paint 20-25 psi with properly thinned paint. I mentioned in my last post proper thinning by viscosity. Also while washer fluid is an improvement over water my thinner will be better with small details. Just sayin. Whatever you use I encourage thinning outside the airbrush in a mixing bottle or cup, then transfer. The H is a good all round model car airbrush if you go that route.

It will never spray completely right with plain water as thinner, it will spray but not behave right on the model. And washer fluid is a step up but not quite there yet. It will work though. I mix my own formulas depending which craft paint it is as some don't like ipa alcohol. My thinner is loosely based off what Bobby @ Genesis Models put out in a video . I use a couple different brands than he does. My flow aid type varies and my retarded is always Liquitex. My craft paints don't spray a whole lot different than solvent paint in nature. Ok all that said. If you grab a little paint with whatever you use as a mixing stick and put some on the side of your paint cup it should run back down to the pool of paint below in 1-3 seconds or so and leave a light film behind as it goes.. Too thick it will just kind of stick there, too thin it will run down fast and leave no film behind. Check your airbrush with plain alcohol or plain water as a test, if it sprays that normal then thin your paint correctly and it should spray that too.

A couple light coats of just about any brand or type of clear should work . I mix my own desired sheen of acrylic varnish clears, a combo of Matt and satin depending on the interior material in mind and I airbrush ( could be brushed too). But I've shot about every kind of clear over craft paint with no issues. As mentioned above be mindful of the primer if used and don't flood the paint on. Flats especially do better misted on.

You can polish the flat aluminum craft paints with Formula ! scratch out and bring them up to a luster finish just fwiw. Both FolkArt and Craft Smart have some pretty nice silvers to choose from between the brands.

You actually could section out a couple of scale inches or so of those front frame rails pretty easily. You could leave it as is too, just sayin. It's your car, build by your minds eye.

I watched a Ford documentary on this and they specifically said the bodies were done in a separate facility. Perhaps my term farmed out was out of line but they were multi color options and combinations ( 6 or 7 ) but all dipping was black apparently. Thanks for the book pages though, they only covered so much in the hour or so long video..

If you're painting classics era model cars 1960ish on back to 1908 you want synthetic enamel or lacquer ( and I prefer if to have to use lacquer that it's Duco Nitrocellulose not acrylic lacquer,different animal). 2k and urethane will never duplicate the look, least not factory stock. With enamel if you mix it right and shoot it right you can shoot it and forget it right off the airbrush. And it will just have that look about it. Model A Fords had enamel on the fenders and lacquer on the bodies, fenders shot in house, bodies farmed out. Many cars were enamel that I thought were lacquer and vise versa after I got checking into it. Rods and customs of the 50 id someone could afford the paint job at all, most were lacquer. There was no such thing as 2k.

I've seen awesome results from sprayed Molotow but haven't tried that method personally. I doubt it's going to somehow magically improve dead product if the stuff is bad in the pen to begin with. That said, Molotow has a certain brightness to it that doesn't really suit my antique and classic cars I like to build. I use it for side chrome on some other builds but will continue to look for something more suited to classic era cars ( 1900's-40 on up to 1957 or 58 or so factory stock) . AK exreme metal stainless steel is of interest presently. And I haven't checked out the Mr line of metals yet. MM buffing metals has left a hole unfilled thus far ,imo.

I've heard of the pens going dull obviously from the thread above but elsewhere too. You're gonna try and shoot it anyway ? The resin is resin, wash, prime etc. accordingly.

I just use the pens thus far over something gloss. Could be semi gloss base color, could be clear color or gloss color etc .

I watched some reviews on this stuff yesterday and it looks promising. And they have a copper metal that looks to come out convincing, not everyone does but some of my old cars I like to built in 1/16 and 1/24 have some copper pieces in them. So that's encouraging to me.

Your approach would be my choice and do the slices. A simple slice top and bottom takes very little filler to smooth it all out.

Hi Charles ! I've mostly just picked up single must have items from Centerline but yes I've been there. Years ago back when the kids were still home I bought some HO train items through them.

Ya know, it's not that you shouldn't prime a model anyway but one thing in common between acrylic paints is you really need to prime. They stick to primer very well but not so hot to plastic. And that's fairly generic between acrylic brands with few exceptions. Stynylrez primer is an awesome primer to use under acrylic paints. It gives an exceptional bond and is also a primer/sealer.

Came out great !

You can get the X-Acto Razor saw set at Michaels for $13.99, grab a coupon you will get it for about $9 or so. Comes with two blades a wide and narrow. You will have it for the rest of your life. As I mentioned have had mine since the 1960's. Hobby Lobby has them too, saw them there a couple of weeks ago but didn't see the price, they are usually quite competitive.

Since about 1960 I've done fine with a razor saw like those shown here by others

N series cartridges are not organic solvent rated.

I've done possibly tons of enamels and or lacquer in my day with organic vapor masks, still do on the models. Different animal than catalyzed paints even if you add a catalyst to the enamel. In catalyzed paints they don't harden with out it and and won't not harden with it, it's a good third of the blend when you do add it. And it will harden inside or outside your lungs and can enter through your skin and eyes. And it's cumulative, you don't expire it all by hacking it up. You might get some up but it goes beyond that, It eats lung tissue and hardens there as part of it. No thanks ! What gets me is people freak over a virus or mold spores, then play with this cause it's shiny lol !

Yep, I wasn't kidding when I mentioned that earlier in the thread. The warnings are real, they aren't kidding. We got all the latest literature and work shop materials when I shot commercially in 1/1. We shot with proper gear which is a toss away paper coverall basically and a positive feed fresh air hood for you head. Nitrile gloves, the suit has elastic tension cuffs. The hood covers your head to the shoulders, the air feed is in the rear and 1-2 psi or there abouts blows out an opening in front of the eyes. Basically positive pressure and cool fresh air circulates inside Back in my day they were a bit different than this but same idea:

What you say is my exact reasoning for not using the stuff. It's also why I got out of refinishing 1/1. That said, I still do use a respirator for general solvent paints too, mostly due to sinus trouble I have. I use N95 masks for acrylic but the organic vapor respirator for solvent based paints. It's no big deal to me I used them for 35 years in 1/1,use the N95 in wood working, either way I'm putting a mask on. . But when those catalyzed paints came along and pressure masks etc, I just back off 1/1 to bumper repairs, door panel repairs and such on commercial trucks then got out all together. Honestly, I like building model classic era cars and to my eye plain old alkyd synthetic enamels still gives a very traditional finish on them if sprayed right. A custom might get clear or clear colors over silver or gold base for instance. But lacquer works fine for that or even Tamiya acrylic. They polish up great for me. I'm not bringing 2K into my house and hobby.

It's really not over kill because the dangers in 2k can enter through your eyes as well. Edit: that goes for mixing the paint and during the curing process, not just the spray process.

I just use thinned and brushed on craft paint. And generally follow up with an oil wash anyway so it doesn't much matter. I have a little bit of MM Aluminum Plate Buffing left, maybe half a bottle that I'm saving for something more important than a muffler. Edit: I wanted to add that first, with craft paint the parts need primed and I use black just fwiw ( don't ask on the black it's just how I do it but you do need primer to make a good bond). And secondly I have sprayed the craft paint with the Paasche H but I just choose to brush. I know the thread is about spray cans so discard info if not interested but someone might be.