Dave G.

I'll have to try the Anita, it's one I haven't shot. Ceramcoat is fine with my thinner blend I mentioned above. I shot DecoArt with Windex today. Not thrilled with how that layed down but it dried decent. Just a bit of texture that some 3500 will take out easy. I force dried it between coats with hot air. Actually I was thinking as it is it would be good for mohair or fabric interior. For a body it would need the fuzzies scuffed off is all. The color and evenness is fine.

Micheals stores, seen it in Walmart too.

I use a bunch of different brands of craft paints and I feel the quality of FolkArt is a cut above many others as well.. DecoArt is good too but but you just have to do a thinner with no ipa in it.

I agree with the consistency. But with the thinner what you say may be the case with Anita paints but if you use multi brands you will absolutely see differences in behavior between the brands and thinner you use. And some acrylic paints are ammonia based, others are not. As I mentioned before don't mix ipa alcohol with DecoArt.

Ya that works, Testors enamels are pretty consistent on viscosity. I usually go a little short of 50/50 personally, slightly less thinner, so maybe 55/45 paint to thinner. Craft paints though are inconsistent on viscosity. Probably among the thinnest is Craft Smart and the thickest Colortek ( spelling could be wrong, too lazy to go look lol).

Well Tom, I don't really go by ratio but if I know a certain paint well and have used it long enough a formulated ratio then may come to light. I mix till when I wipe mixed paint up the side of the mixing cup it returns to the pool of paint below in 1-4 seconds. And adjust from there according to how it sprays. Ratio is tough with multi brands of craft paint, not to mention even between colors as viscosity in the bottle varies greatly before you even begin to thin.

Nice color combo, great job !

Windex can get the job done and sprays pretty well. I liken it to hardware store paint thinner in enamel though, which can crater . That's a phenomenon much like fish eyes where you get these round circles where paint separates from the surface. I notice this especially with Apple barrel paint and in that case still much prefer my own blend of thinner I make up, which doesn't do that. But ( always a but right !) my blend is dog dung in DecoArt lol. 60% bottled or filtered or distilled water. 40% 91 IPA For every 3 oz of this blend put 4-6 drops of Liquitex retarder For every 3oz of that blend put in a trace amount of Dawn dish washing liquid ( I mean a trace amount, not even a drop from the bottle, I use the pointy end of a wooden barbecue skewer and just get a film on the end and mix that in), this breaks surface tension in the paint mix. This blend Works in most acrylic paints but DecoArt doesn't like the alcohol. And many craft paints come closer to spraying like solvent paints with this blend.

Pretty sure you just thin as usual. But then do a test spray and adjust if need be. I haven't used them but seen referenced those who have. As thin as my memory banks are now ( think swiss cheeze) I do recall that much lol. Course they're meant to be kicked with a UV light which is quick and also toughens the surface.

This is the actual original chevy tone or shade of blue ( supposedly). But I recall rebuilding those engines and it seemed a bit darker than that in my memory banks, course that was what, 50+ years ago sheesh lol.

As to question 3, Future/Pledge and Tamiya acrylic have not yellowed for me as yet and I've been testing them for about 4 years. I also use Liquitex varnishes that have not yellowed and are UV stable besides. We've had my now deceased wife's ceramics out in the weather 24/7 for years and has not deteriorated or yellowed. I use that in my modeling as well. All these should go right over enamel as long as the enamel is well cured so you don't get opposing shrink rates as the paints snuggle in. I think that Rustoleum protective enamel has a bit slower cure time than 2x. I haven't used it in years but that was the case years ago, maybe it's changed now though. And I would think the 2x clear would go over it but I can't answer if it yellows or not.

Hah,I just watched the same video yesterday and now you post it.

Plenty of people use them including ones you see often in the painting how to videos at youtube. Often you can notice in those videos that the painter has one of those booths in use, including the now aging but still almost infamous Dr. Cranky videos.

If you keep soaking in LT for two or three days eventually you will run into a plastic where more than the paint goes away lol !

Nice Ford !! But it does get simpler than that, use gloss and skip the clear coat.

Well I used X-1 black on those 1/16 Model A fenders and they turned out fine with no clear coat. I did a 39 Ford sedan in a build off with another member, part of the criteria he set was the color coat had to be craft paint. I cleared that with X-22, minor sanding for polishing the rest was polishing compound, it polished up real nice to my eye so it became a keeper finish for me after that. I'm pretty sure you will like the results on yours.

Like Pete or similarly at least, I run dehydration between 105 and 110. 122 is getting up there, might be fine with enamel and the metal parts. It's not the heat alone that dries or cures the paint but the added air movement, especially with acrylics.

I don't know if the dehydrator you're getting has temp control but I set mine around 108f with straight Tamiya acrylics.. Just FWIW. It may not matter so much but over 105 up to 108 is what I do with acrylics and 108-110 for enamels.. You may even want to go with 105f with your multi combo paints on there, it will still dry.

I believe you will find that the X-20A has some retarder in it. Lacquer thinner dries faster, the colors on color coats are still very vivid ( very clear color no haze if that makes sense). LT won't work in all acrylics but it is suggested by Tamiya for their acrylics ( at their web site), they claim a harder finish. As to DNA, the paint flows like crazy when mixed 1/1 or more thinner. I like it especially in X-1 black as it gives a very natural factory looking black finish that just needs a light buffing to clear the color up a bit ( just offers some extra user control to get that finish we expect to see on a classic car for instance). With DNA it dries super smooth, the smoothest of all the thinners in X-1 black that I've tried. The buffing is just to pull up the gloss slightly. I'd still prefer Model Master Classic black that was made for this job but well, it's not around anymore so we move on right ? Make a way.

You talk about obscure I'm only desiring a 34-38 Buick sedan kit someplace near stock. And a stock 1956 Buick hardtop kit. Nobody comes close the either one, ever.

I don't have a straight answer on air dry times because I always do a 30 minute blast in the dehydrator to jump start the dry, which to me if anything increases gloss ( at least on color coats anyway). Also I tend to use either lacquer thinner or DNA to thin with Tamiya acrylics with to include X-22. I can generally polish by the third day. It should eventually harden though but I haven't experienced your situation personally. I do very little sanding for polishing, go to Colgate toothpaste, then Formula 1 Scratch out. I'm happy with the finish for the era cars I build is best I can say. Maybe be glad its taking it's time with that combo of paints and decals under it, perhaps less chance of something wrinkling on you.

OK. And yes 1/24.

Are you addressing the OP or my post above ?

Is there a more stock appearing version of that 38 Claude ? It looks like there are two to three iterations of it ? You did a great job on that ! I'd be inclined to put a wash on that grill though to shadow the recesses ( can still be done on a finished model)..

Tuckers are good/cool and all that but my cry is for Buicks 1932 or 34 -1957 ! Moebius does Hudsons and Chryslers, this resin company Tucker but you never hear about Buicks. I once emailed about 3 years ago asked Moebius if they ever intended to do a 1956 Buick or any Buick for that matter. No reply. So guess not.