Dave G.

Same deal, craft paint base coat, Tamiya clear blue top coat. None of these are buffed yet in these photos and the base coat shots are dry. The clear blue went in the dehydrator for an hour as I recall and was dry.

Lets try a different one. 49 Ford base coated in RoseGold craft paint, second photo non polished Tamiya clear red mixed with a little clear blue, sprayed thinned with Lt and shot over the craft paint, which I believe was Craft Smart ( I have RoseGold in both Craft Smart and FolkArt,my thinner works in either). Didn't down size but it's off my phone so who knows what happened in email. These are not sanded or polished. And the images are over sharpened, probably compressed so not that great really.

Hmmm

failed post,sorry about that

FolkArt likes water and alcohol with a little retarder. I mix up 3 oz at a time, using 91% drug store IPA and Liquitex retarder which I always have on hand. So it's 60% bottled or distilled water, 40% IPA and 4-6 drops of Liquitex retarder for each 3 oz. You can get just a trace amount of dish soap on a pin or end of a mixing stick ( less than a typical drop) and put that in there too as surface tension breaker. Just that trace element in the thinner is plenty. The retarder stops tip dry. Same thinner for Apple Barrel and Ceramcoat. I use a different blend on Decoart and other craft paints. Also just about a must do, is to prime first.

That would be worth scoffing for a 32 Ford full fendered roadster build...

Where do you get a nice FE Ford from, or is it a cammer in this kit ? The answer may help the OP but I'd use one in a street rod or street and strip car personally.

I've built a couple of the 53 AMT and don't recall any trouble with fitment at all. And it was to me a nice kit back in it's day, good enough I'd still do one again.

Oooh I'd like that but in standard trim and maybe even that color combo. 1/16 scale would be even better but 1/25 will do.

The 69 Camaro to me and many is the nicest of the lot of Camaros. However, it doesn't satisfy my fat or classic fender line desires. Still nice non the less.

I don't know about the resin kit but you may find a body on ebay. Or even an older release plastic kit.

Testors makes a clear parts glue, comes in a black plastic bottle like their regular cement does ( not the orange tube stuff). That's what I use. It can be real stringy and messy if you put on too much, just a heads up.

Just want to report that Rustoleum 2X Apple Red comes out every bit as nice as the Testors and the whole can is $5.49. Put it down wet, wetter the better, two coats unless decanted. If decanted it needs about 20% more thinner, still put it down wet but it will take 4-5 coats. I cooked it at 111F. I shot a 40 Ford spare hood, beautiful finish. Be a greet color for a 32 roadster or couple hot rod. This is the 4th either Painters Touch or 2x color I've shot and it comes out great, every one, especially for some of those late 40's and 50's pastel solid colors.. But I'm really tickled with this red.

Interesting project ! I notice in that Moon truck photo the Chevy cab was undergoing the plight of all Chevy cabs of that vintage, rot. That's what always did them in ( at least out here in the NE anyway), the drive lines could go forever I think( minus the camshafts wearing out, best cure for that was Ursa 15-40 diesel motor oil). But Notice the rocker panel, that rot would creep along the floors to the cab stringers if not nixed in the bud early on... But non of that takes away from the model project.

For the little foiling I do which isn't much I get the foil tape from the hardware store made for heater ducting. There are maybe 3 iterations or so. But I'm sorry to hear the real deal is flopping for you die hard foilers..

Hey I built one of those Fiats back in the 1960's, pretty sure it's the same model anyway ! I know a blown alcohol dragster owner/driver that filled his blocks with concrete back in the later 1970's.. I wonder if he's still alive, I'm 71 and he was 10 or so years older than me,could have passed on by now.

This is basically right. I'd use Stynylrez primer which is an acrylic poly resin primer/sealer. Or the Zinsser mentioned already. If you use a platinum silver paint over that you should see if the red came through or not, to which it shouldn't in either case. Then be good to go with white.

I decant 2x enamel and Rustoleum lacquers outdoors, just what I need at a time. All I do is use a rubber glove in the left hand, paper towel over the mixing bottle or Paasche H bottle/ bottles, put the nozzle under the paper towel and over the edge of the bottle and press gently letting up now and then to see the level of paint in the bottle. I usually fill about 2/3 full then nothing gets blown out. Ok so now I have the paint and just set the cap on the bottle not screwed down for about 30 minutes. However after that 30 minutes I have added a bit of thinner and screwed the cap down tight. Later in the day upon loosing the cap have heard a slight pressure release. Whatever was left has never been enough to effect the paint job. I can't speak for model paints but the Rustoleum 2X and regular Painters Touch paints you can spray more and thinner coats by a slight thinning with a bit of LT. And you get a nice flow out on the model, the results are every bit as nice as having shot the old MM enamels.

Well there are others too built more like an oven with removable shelves. Probably more convenient.

I mix my own to my taste from craft paints. I used to airbrush engines but find with a bit of thinning that brushing works fine. But then I weather them in the end anyway, even if just for contrast. Not all are weathered to stains and rust. There is a green metallic from FolkArt that's pretty close in tone with a very fine fleck in it,once weathered that can look realistic and nice. You really don't notice the metallic in it then. And there is a green nail polish ( lacquer) from LA Colors ( Walmart, Dollar Tree etc) that is very close if a touch dark but still nice and close enough. Either of These would eliminate the need for mixing. I suggest to prime first.

Ya the dye is very weak in the Windex, if you put straight Windex in your airbrush cup ( I often use it for back flushing acrylic paint after hot water flushing) you really don't see the blue against the chrome. And I'm pretty sure maybe 4 years ago or so I thinned white craft paint with washer fluid and it came out fine and that has a bit more dye than the Windex. But lately I'm more and more on board with Liquitex Airbrush medium and water ( 50/50 blend of those components) and a drop of retarder which is also Liquitex, thin to a sprayable consistency. The paint really breaks down into a creamy consistency this way, very airbrush friendly because well, it's made for the job lol. What I'm really liking about this is it's not real fussy as to exact thinness and it dries satin in sheen and smoothness. Just don't do this if you want an ultra flat sheen, the airbrush medium is white but it dries clear gloss in nature which bumps up a satin into flat paints. If I want truly flat paint I do something else.

I never found either one to be the perfect solution for me personally and only used them a few times ( others think they are great though ). Never noticed any color issues when I did use them.

Also if you look at real car tires or 1/1 as we say, they generally are not covered with gloss paint.

I actually want to clarify my statement above on this. The Dazzling Metallics series from them is fine with my thinner blend that has alcohol in it. The standard series may be, I haven't tested that. Most of my colors are the Americana series, for these I use a blend of water and Liquitex Airbrush Medium and a little retarder. Sprays awesome putting down two very light coats and let each flash off then a couple or more wetter coats from then on. But if isopropyl gets to the Americana it will gel, takes 2-3 minutes to happen jfwiw. Additionally, with the Liquitex medium in there the paint sticks to plastic pretty decently without primer. Though I generally prime everything, I tested it without.

The adhesive on heat duct foil is great. But it ( the foil) might be too thick for finer details. Some of you guys foil work amazes me, side trim and bigger pieces is my limit then I go to Molotow. Or might do the whole thing in Molotow.