
Dave G.
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Indoor paint booths, smells, fumes, etc.?
Dave G. replied to Oldmopars's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
I think you have it backwards, keep going with some form of acrylics inside the house. There are some very good ones these days. And when the hankering for lacquers or enamels comes along do that in the nice seasons outdoors or in the shed. You won't need an expensive booth to shoot acrylics in the house and you won't bother yourself, the wife or any pets if there are any. Most any hobby grade booth will do. Heck half the time I shoot into the kitchen trash can. Tamiya acrylic shot with Denatured alcohol as thinner produces lacquer like results. Your craft paints done right, thinned correctly then clear coated with one of a number of different low toxicity clear coats can come out well above hacker standards and your wife won't smell a thing. Vallejo Model Air paints for base coating or so called color coating actually have a pleasant sweet low odor to them. Then clear coat with X-22 Tamiya. My latest experiment in clear is Bulls Eye clear shellac as clear ( skip the amber, you won't be happy). I used that on hand made Christmas ornaments this year as beside my wood turned ones I did acrylic pouring,then shot them with the spray can Bulls Eye. Perfect finish, see every light on the tree reflecting off these things and I just shot those into the trusty trash can as well ! It's not a product for humid weather but it works good in winter with house heat and dry air. I use Liquitex varnishes a lot too, low to no odor.. You have a ton of options for indoor painting that won't stir up others in the house. -
Rustoleum 2X spray paints
Dave G. replied to Smoke Wagon's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
With the Paasche H and medium needle, decanted 2X or the older Painters Touch, with a touch of lacquer thinner added I can get 4- 5 really nice wet smooth coats down on my model parts and not have the film thickness of one or two coats from the can. The finish has been quite beautiful doing this. But I suspect folks want to rattle can because they don't want to airbrush, so for them the airbrush is a moot point. The best I can say if that's the case is to heat the can so it's comfortably warm to the touch. I don't recommend boiling water as one member suggested. There is a limit to how hot then it gets dangerous. As you heat the can in hot water, pick it up and re-shake it repeated times till it doesn't go cold when you shake it. Then you know the paint is warm all the way through. This adds pressure but more importantly, lowers viscosity of the paint. -
Craft smart acrylic paint?
Dave G. replied to kymdlr's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Craft paints are closer in nature to Vallejo Model Color than to Tamiya. Pigments are finer and denser in the Vallejo. I use Vallejo or craft paints for your purpose, mostly craft paints. But everything is primed on my models though fwiw. I prime all the parts but the body right on the sprue then touch up later. I put my craft paint on a painters pallet and a little water or thinner near by. A touch of water in it will help flow and get rid of brush strokes. With Vallejo you use their flow aid. And with Tamiya you use retarder for brush painting. Craft Smart is fine for what you want to do. I've gone from spraying my engines to brushing them with craft paints myself in fact. Then weather with oil stains that are water clean up ( don't ask, it just works that way, no clue how, there are water clean up oil stains out there now and oil paints too). -
Rustoleum 2X spray paints
Dave G. replied to Smoke Wagon's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
This has got to be batch problems or age or something . Rustoleum would be out of business if every can was bad. Makes no sense. When I was still working I bought the stuff by the case for small parts painting and remember the one incident from one case lot of the industrial grade Rustoleum not the 2x. I kept white, red and semi gloss black as I recall. Primer was Krylon, grey and red oxide. All mostly used on interior heater boxes or under hood etc. Also I always heated the cans under hot water and shook for at least three minutes. Having cases on hand means longer storage with lesser used colors and as mentioned above my post, things settle. That's after the agitator ball frees up if it's stuck which does happen. So heat, get the ball free which can take some time shaking, then the minimum 3 minutes shaking. Right now I have gloss Apple Red, Ocean Mist, Satin Wild Flower and Aqua which will buff up gloss if you want that. I also have the plaint Painters Touch which was out before 2X, in White. These all spray fine but I prefer to decant and thin further with a little lacquer thinner. The finish comes out as nice as Model Master ever did, shot through the Paasche H medium needle at around 25-30 psi.. 12 oz for $5.99 is a lot better than MCW for $10+ per oz plus shipping. -
Rustoleum 2X spray paints
Dave G. replied to Smoke Wagon's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
I noticed Micheals has a line of Krylon spray in smaller cans than at the hardware stores. Never tried them, never looked to even see what they are in terms of paint type. Could be acrylic for all I know. But I don't spray can anything, if I use them I decant and shoot with the H. Clear lacquer goes well from a can, that thing goes according to the day for me, can vs H and my mood lol. -
Rustoleum 2X spray paints
Dave G. replied to Smoke Wagon's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Well for me those tones and parchment and such I'm more likely to be using acrylics for anyway. Too bad it doesn't work though. I recall a can of Rustoleum I had at work ( retired in 2014 so a while ago), popped the top pushed the nozzle and this stringy stuff like RTV or something came out and wouldn't shut off, it emptied itself in the trash bin in the shop. -
Rustoleum 2X spray paints
Dave G. replied to Smoke Wagon's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
I just decant and use the H with a touch of lacquer thinner added. No trouble yet, mostly shooting 40's and 50's solid pastel colors. Shoots, to me at least, like any other enamel. Can't speak for Krylon, haven't used that in over a decade but it was ok back then. -
Rustoleum 2X spray paints
Dave G. replied to Smoke Wagon's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
You've shot it a few times with the same result, is it all from the same can though ? Thinking you got a dud can there. -
Craft smart acrylic paint?
Dave G. replied to kymdlr's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Createx is acrylic. It's much like a soft body artist paint, high pigment designed originally for fabrics and T shirt artists. It remains flexible. -
Craft smart acrylic paint?
Dave G. replied to kymdlr's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
I use it all the time, now it's not my first choice in craft paints but they do work absolutely fine if you understand them.. They are thinner than most so you don't thin quite as much so it takes an extra coat or two and dries fine in terms of film thickness.. In the thread on Folk Art craft paints both examples I posted were base coated in Craft Smart Rose Gold. My thinner combo mentioned in that same thread works very well in Craft Smart. You just may need an extra coat or two compared with Folk Art as already mentioned. I noticed lately that my local Micheals store is really plugging Craft Smart and the secondary line is more Deco Art and far less FolkArt than they used to have. I did a 39 ford sedan, bought three different craft paints and once again settled on a green that happened to be Craft Smart. Then clear coated that with X-22 Tamiya. Came out quite nice. I shot 3 base color coats. Scuffed the roof and shot 2 more. When I say coats I mean I Shot a coat flashed it off, then the next etc. It's hugely affected by the color primer you use, I shot three test shots before shooting the body, one over white, grey and black. The black won and that's what I used on the sedan. If i can dredge up a photo later I will post it in this thread. It's stock so I didn't go for wet look with it but traditional 1939 finish look. I do confess that on these old cars craft paints work but enamel is more my go to and I could do an entire thread on just enamel alone since I've been shooting it for 60+ years + 35 1/1. Craft paints and acrylics only 4-5. I took two years to learn the ways in all sorts of test shoots of various craft and acrylic paints, it became a fun and educational hobby in itself ! Edit: the photos aren't worth posting, apparently on my computer I saved thumbnails. -
Has anyone used Folk Art (acrylic) paint?
Dave G. replied to Monty's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Nice Ford, clean build ! I assume it's clear coated, what with if so ? -
All I use is Stynylrez anymore, switched to it 3-4 years ago and it's never peeled on me. I use low tack tape or de-tacked tape but I've run test shots with blue painters tape and with regular masking tape and it's not peeled. Not arguing just one of those with another view and experience with the stuff. Many people/modelers have commented on Createx and tackiness. It's rubbery, made to be flexible because it was originally designed for the Tshirt and fabrics industry. Most modelers do clear coat it, just to answer that question.
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Has anyone used Folk Art (acrylic) paint?
Dave G. replied to Monty's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Same deal, craft paint base coat, Tamiya clear blue top coat. None of these are buffed yet in these photos and the base coat shots are dry. The clear blue went in the dehydrator for an hour as I recall and was dry. -
Has anyone used Folk Art (acrylic) paint?
Dave G. replied to Monty's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Lets try a different one. 49 Ford base coated in RoseGold craft paint, second photo non polished Tamiya clear red mixed with a little clear blue, sprayed thinned with Lt and shot over the craft paint, which I believe was Craft Smart ( I have RoseGold in both Craft Smart and FolkArt,my thinner works in either). Didn't down size but it's off my phone so who knows what happened in email. These are not sanded or polished. And the images are over sharpened, probably compressed so not that great really. -
Has anyone used Folk Art (acrylic) paint?
Dave G. replied to Monty's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Hmmm -
Has anyone used Folk Art (acrylic) paint?
Dave G. replied to Monty's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
failed post,sorry about that -
Has anyone used Folk Art (acrylic) paint?
Dave G. replied to Monty's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
FolkArt likes water and alcohol with a little retarder. I mix up 3 oz at a time, using 91% drug store IPA and Liquitex retarder which I always have on hand. So it's 60% bottled or distilled water, 40% IPA and 4-6 drops of Liquitex retarder for each 3 oz. You can get just a trace amount of dish soap on a pin or end of a mixing stick ( less than a typical drop) and put that in there too as surface tension breaker. Just that trace element in the thinner is plenty. The retarder stops tip dry. Same thinner for Apple Barrel and Ceramcoat. I use a different blend on Decoart and other craft paints. Also just about a must do, is to prime first. -
53 or 56 ford f100 pickup
Dave G. replied to MrMiles's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
That would be worth scoffing for a 32 Ford full fendered roadster build... -
Where do you get a nice FE Ford from, or is it a cammer in this kit ? The answer may help the OP but I'd use one in a street rod or street and strip car personally.
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53 or 56 ford f100 pickup
Dave G. replied to MrMiles's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
I've built a couple of the 53 AMT and don't recall any trouble with fitment at all. And it was to me a nice kit back in it's day, good enough I'd still do one again. -
Oooh I'd like that but in standard trim and maybe even that color combo. 1/16 scale would be even better but 1/25 will do.
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*Pro Street/Gasser Resin Kits*
Dave G. replied to Zippi's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
The 69 Camaro to me and many is the nicest of the lot of Camaros. However, it doesn't satisfy my fat or classic fender line desires. Still nice non the less. -
*Pro Street/Gasser Resin Kits*
Dave G. replied to Zippi's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
I don't know about the resin kit but you may find a body on ebay. Or even an older release plastic kit. -
Clear parts adhesion question
Dave G. replied to Rbray47's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Testors makes a clear parts glue, comes in a black plastic bottle like their regular cement does ( not the orange tube stuff). That's what I use. It can be real stringy and messy if you put on too much, just a heads up. -
Just want to report that Rustoleum 2X Apple Red comes out every bit as nice as the Testors and the whole can is $5.49. Put it down wet, wetter the better, two coats unless decanted. If decanted it needs about 20% more thinner, still put it down wet but it will take 4-5 coats. I cooked it at 111F. I shot a 40 Ford spare hood, beautiful finish. Be a greet color for a 32 roadster or couple hot rod. This is the 4th either Painters Touch or 2x color I've shot and it comes out great, every one, especially for some of those late 40's and 50's pastel solid colors.. But I'm really tickled with this red.