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Dave G.

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Everything posted by Dave G.

  1. What I do is a final blow off with the airbrush before laying down paint, so just air first then shoot it. But sometimes tiny specks or even a hunk of what I call dirt can land in the wet paint too.
  2. All you need is a thin but evenly covered base color coat if you're clearing it anyway. Course you need enough paint so the color is right too but Createx probably does that part pretty well. I bet Liquitex varnish would do well over Createx . I keep that stuff here and use it here and there but no Createx so I can't really conduct an experiment for ya. And I have no real desire to go down the Createx road, if I did it would be AutoAir not the fabric paint ( as I understand it that's what the Createx line was designed for, fabrics, which is why it stays flexible). AutoAir, again as I understand it, is for hard surfaces like plastics and metal, thus the name Auto. Then more specific to models is the Createx Wicked line. Here is a video ( hopefully it loads):
  3. Thats a good start. If you stuck with enamel all this time you might have it nailed down by now lol. 22 models later with enamel you're bound to get decent at it. Yes I know you don't like the smell. And yes I also use acrylics but also enamel. Just not much of a fan of hot lacquer color coat for modeling. But listen, I been spray painting for over 60 years, 1/1 fleet and automotive for 35, airbrushing for nearly 50 and I still can throw a wrench in the works !
  4. In spraying Pledge/Future I don't recall ever getting bubbles. So guess I'm not much help either. With lacquer and with X-22 if there is dust I scuff it out and add another coat or two.
  5. My experience with Future/Pledge is stop short of that full 5th coat or so that gives the gloss without buffing. So 3-4 then buff up the shine when fully dried and you should/may get closer to a factory looking shine and away from that dipped look. I'd try that in a test shoot and see what you think. And that's not wet sanded just tooth paste and scratch out polishing, so I don't burn through that way. Or haven't yet. Some guys brush it and get great results. It's never floated my boat personally though, they must have better brushing skills than me, which is probably quite true. Once again though I can't give a real authoritative answer because I've never shot Createx as base color. So test ! If I wanted a high gloss factory black finish in 2021 I'd use Tamiya X-1 thinned 1-1 with DNA. 5-6 coats then heat set in the dehydrator. Very little polishing, no clear coat. And it's not too much paint, though the first 2-3 coats look rather dismal in the gloss department, they are smooth as silk. The 4th and especially 5th bring up the shine and heat setting for 30 minutes or so at 110f kicks it off nicely. Yep, that's my story in my black search since MM Classic Black went off the shelves. Prior to that MM for me was the no brainer route. Truth be known I still haven't found a true mach to that Classic black for the old era cars I like to build, the X-1 is close with DNA, too jet black with lacquer thinner.
  6. With a decent booth I don't see how over spray would ever reach the first bay never mind the second bay in a garage. If that were the case spray booths would be useless inside a house.
  7. No comment as to the question directly for now, too many variables from paint type to clear or no clear coat ( I don't get the propensity or urge to have to clear coat everything personally) .
  8. Have you tried just changing your gripping position and trigger finger ? I've seen where various types of hand and finger pain has been avoided in using a conventional airbrush by changing how it is gripped and using the thumb on the trigger button. I believe I've seen Will Patterson do that in his videos.
  9. When I was an apartment dweller I just put a fan ion the window, shrouded each side with cardboard and shot near the fan. Everything went outside basically. In that time frame I was shooting Pactra and Testors enamels for cars and ships and Floquil paint for model trains.
  10. I'll have to try the Anita, it's one I haven't shot. Ceramcoat is fine with my thinner blend I mentioned above. I shot DecoArt with Windex today. Not thrilled with how that layed down but it dried decent. Just a bit of texture that some 3500 will take out easy. I force dried it between coats with hot air. Actually I was thinking as it is it would be good for mohair or fabric interior. For a body it would need the fuzzies scuffed off is all. The color and evenness is fine.
  11. Micheals stores, seen it in Walmart too.
  12. I use a bunch of different brands of craft paints and I feel the quality of FolkArt is a cut above many others as well.. DecoArt is good too but but you just have to do a thinner with no ipa in it.
  13. I agree with the consistency. But with the thinner what you say may be the case with Anita paints but if you use multi brands you will absolutely see differences in behavior between the brands and thinner you use. And some acrylic paints are ammonia based, others are not. As I mentioned before don't mix ipa alcohol with DecoArt.
  14. Ya that works, Testors enamels are pretty consistent on viscosity. I usually go a little short of 50/50 personally, slightly less thinner, so maybe 55/45 paint to thinner. Craft paints though are inconsistent on viscosity. Probably among the thinnest is Craft Smart and the thickest Colortek ( spelling could be wrong, too lazy to go look lol).
  15. Well Tom, I don't really go by ratio but if I know a certain paint well and have used it long enough a formulated ratio then may come to light. I mix till when I wipe mixed paint up the side of the mixing cup it returns to the pool of paint below in 1-4 seconds. And adjust from there according to how it sprays. Ratio is tough with multi brands of craft paint, not to mention even between colors as viscosity in the bottle varies greatly before you even begin to thin.
  16. Nice color combo, great job !
  17. Windex can get the job done and sprays pretty well. I liken it to hardware store paint thinner in enamel though, which can crater . That's a phenomenon much like fish eyes where you get these round circles where paint separates from the surface. I notice this especially with Apple barrel paint and in that case still much prefer my own blend of thinner I make up, which doesn't do that. But ( always a but right !) my blend is dog dung in DecoArt lol. 60% bottled or filtered or distilled water. 40% 91 IPA For every 3 oz of this blend put 4-6 drops of Liquitex retarder For every 3oz of that blend put in a trace amount of Dawn dish washing liquid ( I mean a trace amount, not even a drop from the bottle, I use the pointy end of a wooden barbecue skewer and just get a film on the end and mix that in), this breaks surface tension in the paint mix. This blend Works in most acrylic paints but DecoArt doesn't like the alcohol. And many craft paints come closer to spraying like solvent paints with this blend.
  18. Pretty sure you just thin as usual. But then do a test spray and adjust if need be. I haven't used them but seen referenced those who have. As thin as my memory banks are now ( think swiss cheeze) I do recall that much lol. Course they're meant to be kicked with a UV light which is quick and also toughens the surface.
  19. This is the actual original chevy tone or shade of blue ( supposedly). But I recall rebuilding those engines and it seemed a bit darker than that in my memory banks, course that was what, 50+ years ago sheesh lol.
  20. As to question 3, Future/Pledge and Tamiya acrylic have not yellowed for me as yet and I've been testing them for about 4 years. I also use Liquitex varnishes that have not yellowed and are UV stable besides. We've had my now deceased wife's ceramics out in the weather 24/7 for years and has not deteriorated or yellowed. I use that in my modeling as well. All these should go right over enamel as long as the enamel is well cured so you don't get opposing shrink rates as the paints snuggle in. I think that Rustoleum protective enamel has a bit slower cure time than 2x. I haven't used it in years but that was the case years ago, maybe it's changed now though. And I would think the 2x clear would go over it but I can't answer if it yellows or not.
  21. Hah,I just watched the same video yesterday and now you post it.
  22. Plenty of people use them including ones you see often in the painting how to videos at youtube. Often you can notice in those videos that the painter has one of those booths in use, including the now aging but still almost infamous Dr. Cranky videos.
  23. If you keep soaking in LT for two or three days eventually you will run into a plastic where more than the paint goes away lol !
  24. Nice Ford !! But it does get simpler than that, use gloss and skip the clear coat.
  25. Well I used X-1 black on those 1/16 Model A fenders and they turned out fine with no clear coat. I did a 39 Ford sedan in a build off with another member, part of the criteria he set was the color coat had to be craft paint. I cleared that with X-22, minor sanding for polishing the rest was polishing compound, it polished up real nice to my eye so it became a keeper finish for me after that. I'm pretty sure you will like the results on yours.
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