Dave G.

Pete I do more testing than I do spraying models lol ! That's why I said I don't know the make up "yet". If I want to try 2x clear I will figure it out and compatibility. But with 2x colors and considering most of my builds are antique or classic era cars with solid colors and pastels etc., the 2x line of colors has found it's way into my work flow and like Model Master rarely need clear coat in that category I most often build in. Knowing me. I'll do several experiments over various base coats sprayed on my stashes of empty prescription bottles. Clears for me most often are used over flat acrylic paints and craft paints as the base color coats, I have several clear coats that already work well, so I'm not really looking for a magic bullet clear anyway.

While I haven't used the clear yet I do prefer to decant 2x and spray it with my Paasche H. Comes out awesome for me, 2 tones or whatever. While I've shot it from the can the coats are thick for my taste. One coat will basically do it as long as you got everything. 2x through the airbrush shoots pretty much the same as Testors Model Master through the airbrush ( I do add a touch more thinner than what is in the can). I don't know the makeup of 2x clear. Yet. Or what can and can't be done with it. In another thread, might have been another sight even, a guy used it supposedly over enamel and it all wrinkled as if the 2x clear was lacquer.

Who knows if it made it or not but I grew up in that era a car nut and somehow seemed to have missed this iteration of 352. Fairly impressive specs too.

Ya I'm just surprised because I know what it took to get my 390's I raced to 375-400hp. Course the interceptor was a legend back then but I never really knew the stats.

I didn't even know a naturally aspirated 352 could make 360 HP ,never mind when it's made from styrene. !

Tamiya X-22 should go over all that and it buffs up well. If not then Liquitex varnish will.

That's funny !

There's no working 1/1 race car in the world with a finish like that. Too much.

Back when dinosaurs were roaming the earth I put one of those together. They didn't have good clear parts glue that I knew of back then so probably epoxy was the recommended glue. Even at that back then most epoxies yellowed in relatively short time. But today I'd just use what I use on all my clear parts, Testors clear parts glue. Simple one step solution, holds well, dries clear.

Just for the record I've never used their primer thus never thinned it or cleaned it up. I use Stynylrez primer. I have found in my tests that while 2x enamels ( top coat) have a degree of self priming feature to them and don't do bad on plastics with no primer under them, none the less stick all the better with a primer coat first put down. Since I've been dealing with all light colors lately then my primer has been white Stynylrez.

I had not seen this part yesterday. You absolutely can use that compressor and I personally recommend a more robust compressor like that if you consider the Paasche H. Here is why, many airbrushes today are restricted on airflow internally. Some leading brands too. The H is not not, you set the gauge to 50 psi it will flow nearly 50 psi ( minus the drop from flow itself down the lines versus static pressure). A Point Zero regulator with water trap will cost about $12 and you can run that at you paint area as secondary regulator. But if you want to run off the compressor you can get an adapter for Paasche to 1/4" right at Amazon and run a 1/4" connector nipple on your Paasche hose that will plug right into your Dewalt. The whole Paasche kit with three tips, two bottles and metal side cup plus the tool kit is $67 at Amazon. The stripped down versions run $49 or so. I can attest to you drop an H on the floor and it just keeps on ticking lol. It's a lifetime investment. Though my main brush for 40 years was the Badger 200 ( original not the later designation with an H designation that takes the 105 tips and stuff but screw ins) has been a work horse too, I've designated that my fine brush with .25 needle for lacquers and fine work with it's ultra fine atomization and keep the H going for enamels and acrylic paints. But you can do everything needing done with an H and that Dewalt compressor. I use an 8 gal Husky myself.

I actually came on here this morning Pete, to say basically what you just did. In my state Kleen Strip is still basically lacquer thinner but I notice it's much less aggressive than it used to be or not as hot. It doesn't clean nearly as well as it used to for instance. But it works in Rustoleum 2x and in the remaining bits of Model Master I have left.. Now last I knew in California the hardware store thinners there were mandated down to be almost pure acetone. I may go on a search for some automotive medium and slow thinners. I found PPG for a pretty decent price a couple of weeks back. At one time I used all Dupont products because that's the line I mainly used in 1/1 for 3 decades.

Hmmm, I just shot decanted 2X Ocean Mist gloss today with a little added lacquer thinner and cleaned up with lacquer thinner as well. Came out very nice. Before I believe I was talking about the regular Rusto Painters touch satin white and then 2x satin aqua. All has gone well. The LT is hardware store KleenStrip. And yes I'm sure mineral spirits would work. It will spray without the added thinner fine, I just prefer closing the needle down a little and getting those thinner but still glossy smooth coats.. Todays working pressure on the H was 35psi which put static pressure up around 40.. I've always found enamel to airbrush well there anyway, even decades ago.

Awesome !!

I think I missed this one in my many model builds of the late 1950's and 1960's to early 70's.. Whatever the scale I like it. The internet isn't exactly flooded with these things I notice. But I'll keep my eyes open and check ebay now and then.

I don't know but I'd like to build one of those. Is it 1/25 or 1/24 ?

Oh I'm getting there ( lost my wife back in Dec, still get rocked now and then out of nowhere but overall much better than I was).

Well MP, I shot it as is too. I added just a little lacquer thinner next time. I decanted about half a mixing bottle which is about like a Model Master bottle. I didn't really measure, just shot in a little thinner with a pipette. Wasn't really all that much but it enabled me to trim the nozzle setting back. I had it pretty opened up as is out of the can but it shot ok, just had to open up. This was a while back around late May or so, pretty sure I put down 2-3 coats out of the can through the airbrush and 4 coats thinned, wet coats too. Using the spray can for me was too much paint but that came out good too, just gotta be careful. After decanting I let it sit to out gas with the lid just on loose. Maybe an hour. Tightened the cap at half hour and shook and got pressure when I loosened the cap and some bubble in the paint, at an hour it stopped doing that. All I did is cover the top of the bottle with a wad of paper towel, and gently as I could spray into the bottle at an angle to get my paint in short spurts. Took about ten minutes to get the quantity I wanted, didn't spill any and no over spray, course I was outside. I know there are more sophisticated ways but for a test it worked. I did that with white and with light aqua.

Now I'm resurrecting your post from Feb lol ! I won't speak on the primers under Zero. But I've been messing with Rustoleum colors, Painters Touch and also 2X. Let me just say it works from the can but it's a pretty heavy coat, really one coat will do it if you got good coverage and missed nothing. Two coats is more paint than a model really needs but it's ok. Now here's the deal, after those tests I decanted to shot with the Paasche H. Same good results and much better control, you can slow down the passes. Thin it just a little bit extra and you can get 3-4 coats and that super enamel finish. And what I really liked was the satin finish paint and buff it in a few days to a week or so. Now you get a really convincing 1950's factory finish. It buffs up to where it doesn't knock your eyes out with the gloss but you can see every tree in the yard in the finish. That's the look I like for factory stock paint jobs in the old cars I enjoy building, which by the way were not clear coated. And I didn't prime in my test shoots, I shot right to plastic ( not say I wouldn't prime but didn't). To me through an airbrush it acts pretty much like Model Master enamels. I bought a can I'm using on my 1/16 57 T Bird when I get to that build. That's in my future as I have two 1/16 models now to finish up and two 1/25 nearly complete but can't quite see my way back to. I get off on these experiments and right away think of another kits I'd like to use that on lol.

If you're using my thinner I mentioned to you for craft paint in that more humid weather you can cut back on the retarder to 4 drops for 3 oz of thinner. You may still want a hair dryer handy as the paint flashes off very slowly in humid conditions. I still can't speak for Createx, never used the stuff personally. The problem in high humidity is generally speaking with lacquers Mike.

If it's any consolation many an old car faded to hues of purple as well. Nice Ford !

Always a pretty sure bet for black Zip.I'll just reiterate that my experience with black for bodies has been pretty much limited to Model Master Classic black, that flowed out awesome. I still have one bottle left that I kind of cherish, and a partial bottle I've used for brushing since new. Recently I went with Tamiya acrylic thinned with DNA and that came out awesome but it is a slightly more midnight or Jet black than the Classic black is. But it looks good on the Model A fenders enough that I won't change it. Barely needed polishing, everything just went off right on that one ( 1/16 Minicraft Model A roadster).

Do a test of the 2x red right over the orange,it may pop more than over grey. 2x sticks to plastic.

I agree with you Pete so take me off your list of ones not agreeing, at least as it applies to painting..

Dew point is literally related to moisture content and the degree of temp where saturation occurs, thus at night temps fall below dew point and you find everything outside all wet,your lawn, car, barbecue grill etc. To me it's important to painting vs relative humidity . But it's just the gauge I prefer to go by, doesn't mean anyone else has too. That said I've seen fogging of lacquers in cool temps too from spray cans. With low dew points sometimes, because the exiting of paint from spray cans chills it further to below the dew point and water gets into the picture in the form of that fog on the painted surface. Thus the heating of the can is two fold, it sprays better for one thing but raises that temp to where it won't drop below the dew point on the surface you're painting. Airbrushing flat acrylic Tamiya and getting a rough finish is another matter. The uneven drying times over the surface of the model yet another and for flats actually fairly typical. Try the retarder lacquer thinner, 1 part paint to 1.25 or so thinner and see what you get. And you can push the drying with a hair dryer on the low heat setting if you want. That's my first suggestion. You might be better off with a dehumidifier in the basement, let the temp rise a little and still get the humidity a bit lower. Be nice to see your number reverse, 66 deg and 60 humidity. But I'm not convinced that's your issue.