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dodgefever

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Posts posted by dodgefever

  1. 41 minutes ago, Mark said:

    Watch out for that metallic brown plastic; in some kits it's extremely brittle.  I had one of the Big Ten-Ford issues that I picked up for cheap because the cab was broken into several pieces.  I tested the parts trees, they broke easily.  I wound up combining that one with another kit to get a complete one.  There are other issues of the '56; there's a Street Demons issue which is pretty much the Super Trick Classic molded in a different color.  There might be a Grease 2 issue also.

    Yes, I have a Buttera T sedan in that metallic brown.  The metallic blue of the Hot Rod issue is quite brittle, but the older brown stuff is worse still.

  2. 14 hours ago, Mark said:

    The Roth version has the small window, correct for the 1:1 it represents.

    The big window/100% stock issue appeared in 1995.  

    2X Don's comments re: the HOT ROD version.  I've got an "early" one and a "late" one (what possessed me to get so many of these kits?) and the differences are amazing.  The "late" HOT ROD kit also has the nice Goodyear racing tires that Revell used in the new-tool '32 Ford kits.  They're "early" tires with the Goodyear lettering still in place, before being wiped later on.

    I didn't know the Hot Rod version was in production for that long.  Mine had BBS wheels, awful two piece tyres and still had the Pontiac engine.  I'm trying to think when I bought it: I think maybe '90 - '92, but I can't remember exactly.

  3. 1 hour ago, Ace-Garageguy said:

    Isn't that six one-barrels?

    Six two-barrels.   The Monogram '30 Touring has a three two-barrel SBC intake, but of course the Monogram kits are 1/24, not 1/25.

    A 348 intake could perhaps be made to fit, but the water outlet is typically the other side on a small block and the 348 oil filler is in the wrong place. 

  4. 1 hour ago, regular guy said:

     

    They need to kick it in gear making hard to find parts sold in plain wrap plastic bags or plain white box.

    Case in point.

    '27 Ford touring.

    Just the body please.

    And the overhead valve cylinder head.

    We can use a T engine out of some other kit.

    They need to sell the hotrod engines separate too.

    Ford Y block. Buick nailhead and whatever the other are.

    They could call it "Kat's Korner" for the advanced modeler. Like "Kat's Collection".

    They should send me half a dozen kits for this free consultation.

    Against my better judgement, I find myself reeled in again...

    The AMT '27 touring kit has been reissued multiple times and still includes the Frontenac parts.  If you only want the body, there's the Revell kit too.  Both can be found easily on Ebay.  As for moulding and selling parts piecemeal, as others have pointed out, injeciton moulding doesn't work like that.

     

  5. I used Photobucket until they drove everyone away, then I switched to Fotki.   The interface took some adjustment, but I'm happy with it now. 

    I don't know if it's my settings or plug-ins, but people's Flickr photos never show up here, I only see a text link.

  6. I'm building this for the TRaK Autorama.  Base kit is the AMT '33 Willys, but I'm only using the frame and front suspension.   The unchopped body,  hood, and front wheels came from Ed Fluck at Drag City Casting. Rear wheels and tyres are from the new tool Revell '41 Willys and the rear axle is a resin copy I made from an AMT '62 Pontiac.  The original plan was to use the blown small block from the old tool Revell '57 Chevy, shown here. 

    33willys01-vi.jpg

    That plan didn't last long...  I switched to an Olds engine from the old tool SWC Willys.  The rear wheels and tyres were also changed to M&H piecrust slicks with 4 hole wheels from the Ivo Showboat.

    33willys02-vi.jpg

    Headers are made from 2mm Plastruct rod with collectors formed from .010" sheet. 

    33willys06-vi.jpg

    I was scratch building ladder bars, but that was too much like hard work, so now I'm using the old tool SWC ladder bars, which have since been shortened about 3/8". 

    33willys07-vi.jpg

    So, that's where I'm up to.  Comments welcome.

     

     

     

     

     

  7. Yeah, that looks good as it is.  If you're going for a period build as it seems you are, then either a flat sheet firewall or one of Ed Fluck's stock-style resin pieces would look better than the kit part.  What's the plsn for the engine?

  8. The new tool Revell '41 Willys has nice Donovan valve covers and maybe the best 4-port Hilborn availble.   For the block, heads and blower, I still prefer the old Miss Deal parts (and it has Chrysler FirePower lettering on the valve covers, where most modern kits are blank).  The new tool Willys blower is too squared off and toy-like, and the engine detail is so-so.

  9. I didn't like the Sovereigns at all - diameter was too large, hub too small and offset too deep.  The wheels in the AMT '60 Starliner or '69 Olds 442 are miles better.

    I also had the chrome reverse ones, but again the hub detail was lacking - lug nuts lost in a huge flat area, nothing like any 1:1 wheel; no slot detail between the centre and the hoop, just not very realistic at all.  I like the tyres, but there are much better kit wheels.  If they'd actually looked at say, a reversed '50 Merc wheel, or a Ford centre in a Buick hoop and replicated those, I'd have bought mulitples, but they were a huge disappointment.

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