Andrew McD

I believe the Createx website specifically states that one should not wet sand their paints. Early on when first attempting to use an airbrush I experimented with Createx with very mixed results. Tip dry problems and paint spattering issues were a constant headache. Keep in mind that I was new at airbrushing, a skill I still have not mastered, but I did manage to paint a couple of models with their pearl colors and was very pleased with the results. I understand that their new 4021 reducer (reducer is their word for thinner) has been formulated to reduce tip dry problems. I don't know what the experience of others may be but I found thinning to the suggested ratios on their website resulted in paint that was much too thick to spray effectively in the 15 to 30 psi range that is typical for model airbrushing. As with all hobby airbrushing it seems Createx paints have a learning curve, one that I found to be frustratingly steep. Having said that I am considering having another go with Createx as I especially like their pearls. Hopefully the 4021 reducer and a bit more experience with the airbrush will produce more consistent results.

I meant no criticism of your work. I am trying to develop an approach to figuring out dimensions for a drawing that would provide a starting point for machining parts. I appreciate your response . I kind of figured as a first approach to machining parts for a model I would start by basing it on existing plastic parts. Thank you for confirming that such an approach is a reasonable way to go.

The metal work is impressive. I am curious what you used as a reference for the dimensions. Did you take measurements off a kit engine, research actual engine dimensions, or some other approach? One of my long term modeling goals is to develop some lathe/mill skills to produce parts for my models. Fascinating work you're doing, I'll be following this!

Very nicely done! I have this one waiting in the stash but haven’t yet decided if I’ll build it as a show or go themed car. Glad to hear that there are no big issues with the kit.

Great looking pro-mod. Impressive scratch built chassis. What did you base the chassis design on? Was it your own design or based on an existing car?

I would suggest that spoilers were not seen in the Gasser class because aerodynamic devices were not yet common place in auto racing. The Gasser class was dropped from NHRA in 1972 which was but a few years after wings had begun to sprout on F1 cars. Apart from the rule book requiring essentially stock appearing bodies the use of aerodynamic devices had yet to become commonplace in auto racing when the Gas class was popular in the 1960’s and very early ‘70’s.

Turns out I rarely, if ever, resort to eBay and did in fact follow the lead from Dave G. and obtained the product from BJ Hobby Supply. Just to clarify; in my original post I mentioned only finding eBay listings for the product, those listings came up in a Google search.😎

Welcome Mike! This is a great place to pick up new model building skills from a well run and friendly forum.

The rust is amazing and contrasts beautifully with the blue interior. The stance is down right wicked! Well done!

Really cool and I have to agree the decision to paint it red really sets this one off.

Kind of blows my mind.......wow, a very interesting piece of automotive history.

Great looking goat!

One mean green machine! I like it.

Black paint is such a challenge and you've nailed it on this one. It never occurred to me to paint the tires with rubber black, it's quite effective. When I was a kid I was a Mazmanian fan and my best friend was an S,W,&C fan; always made for some fun rivalry. Gassers forever!

What a nicely done model! The chrome trim with the white paint is exceptionally nice.