tim boyd

I have purchased about ten of these kits now, and have opened the bodies on four of them. One of them had a similar type of depression to yours on each side, one worse than the other, but neither as prominent as the one you show here. In both cases, I was able to file/sand it out without using body putty. You can see the result in the gray/green '32 Ford Highboy pictures posted above. Other bodies I have looked at have either no depressions, or much less obvious ones. If you look at the backside of the body, you can see that there are small feed tags - this is where the styrene is inserted into the body mold. The depression on the outside is an artifact of that. The first kit I got (the same one described above) also had some minor sink marks in the Deuce frame rails - the left side worse than the right side. In both cases, they were sandable without putty. Other kits purchased later that I have looked at, have no discernible flaws in the Deuce frame rails. . TIM

More pix of Alan's Niekamp Roadster replica from my International Model Car Builder's Museum photo album..http://public.fotki.com/funman1712/model-car-events-co/international-model/ .. Alan's outstanding replica is the first one I know of....anyone else done one to date? TIM

Thanks Dennis...exactly correct. Richard...hope that helps. Cheers...TIM

I've had my model car eyes on the Niekamp Roadster ever since the original restoration articles in Rod and Custom in 1971. In recent years, it has come to light that the body was shortened (lengthwise) through the center/door area, adding to the complexity of making a model replica. On the other hand, the Revell Edelbrock Midget nose cone could serve as the basis for a front end conversion. And yes, I have my MCW Automotive Finishes '50 Chrysler Code 05 Haze Blue paint in hand, along with a file nearly 1" thick with reference material. Some day.... TIM

The Revell '70 Mustang Mach 1 kit has the best Cleveland 351 in 1/25th scale. It is really the only mostly authentic Cleveland in this scale. It is entirely stock except for the valve covers, which are Ford Racing aftermarket parts that need to be replaced with parts that replicate the factory stock version. There is a photo of a built and paint detailed engine from this kit in the "Ford Muscle V8's" story I did for the other model car mag a few years back. Good luck with your project...that's a cool car, for sure. TIM

Guys....do we have some traditional hot rod design/build talent on this forum OR WHAT! Bill....lovin' it so far. Your approach to fixing the headers is pretty much what I had in mind, but I like the location of your cut better than what I was thinking. I've been doing some Nailhead parts swapping of my own as well over the weekend...found that the AMT/Ertl '66 Riv valve covers and heads are too LONG vs. the Revell '29A engine block so swapping those heads is a dead duck. Looks like the Revell Parts Pack heads (which I also presume are identical to the Tony Nancy Dragsters double kit Nailhead cylinder heads) are the way to go, as you suggest... Looking forward to your next post. TIM

Dennis...thanks for the feedback...I just checked it myself and now I get your point about the axle tubes. I think you've convinced me. I also remember thinking the '29 kit coil overs were too fat when I went through the first round test shots 18 months ago...I do think they look a lot better in final form with the plating and some flat black detailing between the coils...but I also get your point on the '32 coil overs and may try that approach as well. Resolving the rear axle setup is the last major thing I have to do before completing the model...so it should be done in a few days. Thanks on behalf of all reading this thread for your guidance on this....TIM

JB - great job on that Nailhead! Cheers...TIM

Dave....interesting parallels here between your plans and my own third and fourth builds of this kit, which are a '29 Roadster Highboy built with the Model A frame instead of the '32 frame, and a kitbash of the channeled A chassis with the Replicas and Miniatures '30 Ford Model A Chopped Coupe, employing the extra unused instrument panel and floorboard, which fit Norm's Coupe body nearly perfectly. Like you, I'm using the Modelhaus painted steelies with the chrome spyder inserts (painted yesterday) on the Highboy, and I'm using a Caddy V8 on the '30A Coupe kitbash. My Caddy engine is the unit from the Revell '59 Cadillac kit, with all the shiny accessories from the Revell-Monogram reissue of the original Parts Pack Caddy V8. So far, looks like everything lines up well (probably requiring only the removed of the pin on the tranny crossmember, which should take all of five seconds). I would also like to do a flathead and a full transverse leaf rear spring/quick change conversion, but I think those are down the road a bit for me...would love to see how you do it. Cheers...TIM

Dennis...great progress. It's interesting to compare your version to mine which is also coming along. I've been thinking along similar lines (subbing in the Halibrand QC and "Bell" axle tubes while leaving the outer shock mounts, radius rods, and axle ends from the host kit). I hadn't considered using the '32 kit coil overs in place of the stock Revell kit pieces, but I like the look on your build. In the spirit of early-mid 1960's I swapped a set of hairpins for the split radius rods - I used the extra set from the Revell '32 For 5W coupe kit. I haven't altered the front suspension stance as you have, hoping that the "rubber rake" from the larger rear tire OD I'm using will make up the difference. As a result, I'm expecting my car to have a similar rake to yours, but sit a bit higher all around. Really good approach on those front shock towers....I may (in fact, probably will) copy your approach on that. I'm going to retain the '29 grille on mine, but I hope to vertically section the radiator to reduce the thickness by 50%or more, which should help the "nose too far forward" appearance of the box stock Channeled version I finished last week. Can't wait to see your next updates.....Best Regards....TIM

Dennis...that is some mighty fine kitbashing going on there. for both of these models. Not to mention, these would look great in our "Traditional Hot Rods" Cult Theme Display at the NNL Nats in a few weeks.....TIM

John...good question. I wouldn't disqualify based on disc brakes alone. But as we all know, many of today's 1/1 scale Traditional Hot Rod builds use disc brakes up front, disguised to look like Buick finned drums. Or for even more plus points, Kinmont brakes. Still, that's why we have "Friends of Traditional Hot Rods" section right next to the Cult Theme display. Best Regards...TIM

Aaron...I think louvered trunk lids are entirely a style element. But a pretty cool one, at that. Cheers....TIM

As if you don't know...(smile)....TB

is "TRADITIONAL HOT RODS". With the introduction of Revell's new '29A Roadster kit, and the popularity of 1/25th scale Traditional Hot Rods (as demonstrated by the many posts on this topic here at the Model Cars Magazine Forum), what better time is there to celebrate this building style in scale? Many of you fully understand what i mean by "Tradtional Hot Rods" based on your posts in several categories in this Forum. But for those not fully familiar with Traditional Hot Rods or their build styles, you can refer to my Traditional Hot Rods Portfolio at this link: http://public.fotki.com/funman1712/11-scale-automotive/traditional-hot-rod-1/traditional-hot-rod/ which includes nearly three hundred photos traditionally styled hot rods from the 2014 Lone Star Roundup and the 2015 Detroit Cobo Autorama. To summarize, they would be any model that is based on a 1920's through 1948 Ford or other make, AND reflects the sort of build trends that you would see on Hot Rods built anywhere from the late 1930's through to the late 1960's. Street rod era trends like white letter tires, wire wheels, resto rods with full factory chrome accessories, pastel monochromatic paint, graphics (other than flames, scallops, and pinstriping), billet parts, "phantom" bodies like the Testors Smoothster, and 23" wheels are NOT traditional Hot Rods. (These models are still welcome at the NNL Nats as well, but they should be displayed in the regular street rods table near in the center tables of the NNL Nats.) Basically, any model that reflects the design cues of cars featured in Hop Up and Rodder's Journal magazines, is welcome at this special NNL Display area next to the magazine photograph booths at the NNL Nats facility. Still want to see some more pics before you check out the photo portfolio referenced above? OK.... We'll also setup a "Friends of Traditional Hot Rods" area immediately adjacent, for traditional customs, and any other models that are close to, but not entirely reflective of the Traditional Hot Rod genre. While all Traditional Hot Rods are welcome, we expect that a number of NNL participants have new models under construction based on the aforementioned Revell kit, that will not be completed by the NNL Nats date. "No worries", as our mates in the UK like to say. We'll welcome any partially built models based on the Revell kit as part of the 2015 NNL Nats Traditional Hot Rods Cult Theme. Please let me know if you have any questions....and take a look at the link if you need any fresh inspiration. And spread the word, as this will be your only notification of the NNL Cult Theme this year. Looking forward to it, for sure! Best Regards...TIM

Thanks everyone for your feedback. Bill....I never noticed that either...thanks for pointing that out! Cheers...TIM

Bill....carry on, indeed. Great work on fine tuning the proportions! Like you and others, I think a '27T Turtledeck is a slam dunk for the Revell '29A Z'ed Chassis. Will be watching this one come together with great interest....TIM

I just posted pictures of all four of them, from my '15 Cobo Autorama album, at the end of the thread (bottom of page 9) in the link posted by Greg two messages above...TIM

Hmmm......if/when a production version of this possible kit hits the market, you can be sure that I will both review it and do an on-line "QuickBuild" of the kit. BTW, did anyone see the feature article in the new Rodder;s Digest on four different '30 A Chopped Five Window Highboy Coupes? Terrific cars, everyone of them. Here they are....as exhibited at the 2015 Cobo Autorama.... Of course, my most favorite is the Midnight Blue Solid painted / blown Y-Block powered one pictured above (a new build that debuted at '15 Cobo Autorama), but I'd be mighty proud to drive any of these four in 1.1 scale, and/or to have 1/25th scale replicas in my display case. So needless to say, I hope this rumored kit eventually becomes reality, and much sooner than later to boot. Cheers...TIM

Jeff....that 'Revell '58 Chev 348 is mega-nice. Superb detail, and lotsa plated parts that are perfect for a Hot Rod engine. Matter of fact, there's some pictures of this engine, built up and modestly detailed, in my article in the current issue of the other model car magazine. The Olds engine is also a great choice for a Hydro/V-Drive boat. I'd love to see pictures when you are done with that one. TIM

Virgil....looks very, very sharp. Great job on the weathering and patina, of course! The instructions state to use floorboard #13 for the channeled version, but the correct assembly sequence is to use floorboard #62, the same one used for the Highboy version. The #13 part is used in a future version of the kit tool, with a different body and interior panels that align with the slots on that floorboard. There are no fit issues when using floorboard #62. Revell agrees and will make a correction on the instruction sheet of future releases. . There are chrome exhaust tips that are entirely hollow, cast on the ends of one of the chrome trees. They are really easy to overlook (I had to go trash can diving to retrieve my first set), but they are there. Looking forward to seeing where you go with your next builds of the kit. Cheers...TIM

Gene...yes there is....at this link http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/105160-revell-29a-hot-rod-roadster-quickbuild-update-4-final-photos-of-completed-kit-and-my-final-thoughts/ on the MCM Forum, and at this location in my Fotki album http://public.fotki.com/funman1712/tim-boyd-on-line-mo/tim-boyd-on-line-ho-6/ Best regards...TIM

One more piece of advice for anyone building the Model A chassis. The two holes in the bottom of the number 62 floorboard that fit the tranny crossmember pins need to be fully drilled through the floorboard. Do this and your body will sit parallel with the bottom of the frame rails. Don't do it, and your body will sit too high at the cowl. Takes about one minute to do,but makes a big difference in the finished appearance. TB

Dennis ... That is exactly how I trimmed the inner fenders on my A framed highboy project. Can't wait to see how yours develops....Tim

Here are some additional comparo photos in the "under glass" section, showing the completed Revell '29A Highboy compared to three previous Boyd '29A Highboy on '32 Rails models: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/105498-comparo-built-revell-29a-highboy-roadster-vs-three-previously-completed-model-a-highboy-kitbashes/ And here are some comparo photos of the Revell '29A Channeled Roadster comared to three other Channeled Ford Roadster models I've built previously: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/105497-comparo-built-revell-29-a-channeled-roadster-3-other-channeled-ford-roadsters/ Best Regards...TIM