tim boyd

Monty...I've covered this subject in my Mopar articles in the other model car mag, as well as in considerable detail in my two parter on building the '70 Siuper Bee Phantom PIckup (Model Cars Mag (May/June 2012 and July 2012),, with the chassis detailing info being covered in Part 2. I'm pretty sure these two issues are available form the Model Cars Mag back issue department. But to broadly summarize: * Underbodies were primer gray or rust colored primer, with bodycolored overspray along the outer edges (applied from the side of the underbody, just as it would occure in a factory paint booth as overspray from the paint guns applying paint along the lower rocker area would drift onto the underbody surfaces. Less is more here (I am guilty of having overdone the effect on occasion, as have other modelers). * Black, rough textured undercoating varies widely from car to car. It was generally applied to the fenderwell, under the rear axle, and along the differential/trans tunnel. Full factory undercoating was a factory option (at least in the early '70's when I ordered my RR), but I don' t know how that differs from the above. There is a lack of consensus on this topic. * K frames were semi-gloss black, along with the center portion of the crossmenber directly under the tranny. Torsion bars were gloss black. There is 100% consensus on this in the Mopar restoration community as far as I know. * Rear axles were semi-gloss black. There is not consensus on the color of the front pumpkin of the differential, with semi-gloss black, rust colored primer, and steel all claimed to be correct depending on the source. * Front suspension components were mutli-colored (you need to check my articles for details). Another area where there is not consensus in the rear leaf springs, as some restorations are semi-gloss black, bare steel, or cosmoline coated steel. This is a general description, again, you need to see my Mopar articles going back to the late 1990's for more info, or alternatively consult about the last 15 years worth of magazines like Mopar Muscle, Mopar Action, and Mopar Collectors Guide to see actual 1.1 chassis restoration articles. But you can also proceed with the above info and be correct enough that most people looking at your model will be amazed at what you have done, rather than nit-picking about individual details. And the areas described above with a lack of consensus can be built/painted in any of those forms and technically be "correct". Hope that helps....TIM

One of our Australian based aftermarket kitmakers casts the Polyhead 318 V8....or at least they did a several years ago....TIM

Jason that is some really top-notch bodywork there....TIM

Guys, guys, guys! When I read some of this speculation I want to scream! (not really, but....) The model companies employ some very smart, dedicated and committed people these days. Are they always right? No. Are they usually right? Far more often then not. So my studied advice would to "presume the best" until the companies introduce their upcoming products and you have a chance to buy and build them. Then....bombs away, if need be. As for me personally, I would never build a S&H Torino if such a kit were to be introduced, but I understand that many, many model builder view this topic with the same awe that I view topics like a '70 GTO Judge Ram Air IV Convertible or a '64 Ferrari Berlinetta Lusso... Plus, as Chuck alludes to above, combined with the JoHan snap kit '72 Torino body and some model year specific back dating to the powertrain, the innards of a S&H kit would provide a great basis for a full detail '72 Torino GT kitbash. And THAT is a topic that I would most certainly hold in the same awe as the others I mentioned. (Plus, have you ever seen what a couple of 429 four barrel ';72 Torinos are running in the Pure Stock drags? Talk about a sleeper!) Just my 2 Cents....TB ,

MCW Automotive Finishes (www.mcwautomotivefinishes.com) offers the exact colors for Sox and Martin replicas. The colors vary depending on the model year of the racer. For the '70 'cuda, the color translates to '68 Mopar factory code QQ1, which was otherwise known as Electric Blue Metallic for Plymouth and Bright Blue Metallic for Dodge that model year. There is no exact model paint equivalent of this color, and it is NOT the same color as 1969/1970 B5 Blue nor 1971-73 B5 Blue. Some of Tamiya's Blue Metallics would probably be an acceptable option for a shelf-only model. Hope that helps! Regards...TIM

Mike...glad you spoke up here. While it's been many, many years since i did box art models for AMT, my experiences were exactly the same as yours. And just in case some of you are wondering, the pay for these box art models was, shall we say, very modest. TIM

Ack! It's been nearly a week and no update on this build project.... Bernard, just wanted you to know that this modeler is anxiously awaiting your next update on this project....(smile).....TIM

Andy...lookin' good! This is one of my favorite kits of the year. I was challenged by the front vent windows, but looks like you got those in without problems. As for the rear quarter windows, I recommend you tape them in place from the inside, and then flow Testors Clear Window cement along the edges of the window from the inside. Takes about a day to dry solidly but seems to be pretty robust when dry. It kind of works by capillary action and seems to leave a clear joint that cannot be seen from the outside of the model. Best regards...TIM PS - that engine is SHARP! TB

Brett...they've also been front and center for me now for about a year now (I have an entire binder of historic pix and research on this subject). I decided to do something along this line to celebrate my retirement (although I built the entire model, except for the last 7 days of the build, before my retirement started.) All of which probably helps to explain my next, upcoming article here in MCM.... There are also a couple of very similar - and extremely well done - builds that have already been featured here in the MCM forum...one which was completed (though I did not know it at the time) before I even started my project. TB

Brett- AMEN!!!! Tim PS - new issue of Hot Rod DeLuxe has a page on vintage truck haulers this month....saying...*surprise*....they are really hot right now! TB

Just checked - the Elegance series kit was called "Wonder Bird". And just as Bob says, there were only parts to do one version - sort of a "street modified" version (circa 1967) IIRC, put together using parts from the original 3 in 1 kit. TB

I found my article text in my old Word document files. It says the instrument panel came from the "parts box" (which means just that - I pulled it from my parts box where it was deposited many years ago - before I began keeping track of where all those the parts came from). Darn! Better news on the steering wheel. The text says that it is the steering wheel from the "Bonneville" version of the AMT 3 in 1 Trophy Series '53 Studebaker kit - yes, the one they are due to reissue later this year with the original box art. I'll let you all know if I can figure out the IP source at a later time. TIM

Fred....looking really, really sharp. Both the 'cudas I built needed to have the Air Grabber mounting pegs shortened to allow the hood to fit properly. You are correct, redline tires were not available from the factory in 1970; the hemi 'cuda included F60-15 RWL Goodyears...just like your build. Looking forward to seeing it finished! TIM

These "Limefires" I believe were from the original (circa 1961) issue of the Monogram '30 Model A kit - the one with the stock, hot rod, and "race" versions of the five window coupe and cabrio. You can still find those on the auction site occasionally - I bought a gluebomb that still had extra unused parts. I don't recall the steering wheel and IP source - I will try to find the article I wrote and let you know tomorrow....Tim.

Bernard...I noticed that too when I posted the picture and I didn't remember it from the build. I think its a reflection/artifact from my lighting tent. <...pause...> Yep, just went upstairs and looked...there is no cowl seam on the model. Whew! Here's another shot where you can see better (kind of) the area in question. And thanks for the compliment on the build! TIM

Here's a picture of my '27 Turtledeck from a few years back. From memory...I used a Monogram "Little T" '25 Model T Roadster chassis (which was patterned after Model A frame rails),...and a thorougly kitbashed Ford Y-block engine (the engine in the new Revell '57 Ford Custom wold be a much better starting point these days...). The paint is '59 Buick Lido Lavender, although '55 Ford Regency Purple is also a very similar color...both these being available from MCW Automotive Finishes. As you can see (reference Bernard's comments earlier about the difficulty of interiors for '27 T turtledecks), I cheated a bit here on my interior.... The body for this one came either from Tim's Resin Rods or the Ron Cash master, IIRC. One of these days I'll get rid of the cowl racing windshield and install a proper '27T windshield frame...but only the lower half of it! I don't want to divert Bernard's thread here by posting more pix, bu if you want more, see the bottom of the page at this link...http://public.fotki.com/funman1712/tim-boyds-124th--12/boyd-street-rods-ra/boydstreetrodsratro/ ************** Bernard...it would be way cool if we could figure out how to get our two models together for a comparo some day..yours on a '32 frame, mine channeled...and so on and so on. Even better if Tom Woodruff decides to build one as well (reference his post #18 above). And anyone else who might decide to join in! TIM .

JB - I would like to get a hold of anotherof Tim's Resin Rods '27 T's Roadster PIckup bodies (the one I based my article on that appeared in one of the other model magazine Contest Annuals (I believe) about ten or so years ago). If you see him at the next NNL West, please try to get some contact info for me. At the time, I remember his castings as being a little challenging to finish (seemed like they had excess release agent in the resin or something simliar), but I'm sure if the problem was on his end (and not mine), he's corrected it in the meantime. He's also the only vendor I recall that has cast the '27T Roadster pickup body (as opposed to the several casters who have done the '27 T Turtledeck...) . His Roadster pickup also had a very nice interior bucket casting with tuck'n'roll upholstery. Speaking of which...maybe I should dig out that model and photograph it....! TIM

Brett is 100% correct here. The only kits that share this tooling are the MPC Garlits Wynnscharger (which was the first kit from the tooling), the Carl Casper Young American, the "Fiat Rail Rod Slingshot" (which contained a rather basic Fial Altered body), and the Carl Casper Cosmic Charger, which was a pretty heavily modified version of this tool. The other rails shown are either derivatives of the MPC Ramcharger kit (which was an entirely different tool, first issue two years earlier), the equally unrelated AMT Tommy Ivo kit, or the original AMT Don Garlits "Checker Flag Series" kit first issued in 1965. Hope that helps a bit...TIM

It was the full detail version....and yes, the Elegance series issue was molded in red with the white pearl paint and tinted blue windows. The box art read "Wonder Bird" IIRC....TIM

John...what a work of contemporary art! Just wow! Best regards...TIM

Jim....terrific detail on your project...fascinating to watch your methodical and well thought out assembly procedure, too. As for the spoiler...I'd leave it in the box if this were my build. As you probably know, the spoiler for '70 was different than the one for '71....I have little use for these Mopar muscle era pedestal spoilers so I don't know if the one you are using is correct for the '70 my application (I'm thinking it probably is), but just wanted to mention it. With your background, you are probably much more on top of this subject than I am anyway. Best of luck finishing your project...TIM

Bernard....excellent progress....I've always loved that AMT '37 Chevy Street Rod gauge panel and I have used it countless times in my own builds...looks great here! One other really fine '27 T (albeit with a sprint car nose) is the car Roy Brizio build for John Mumford that won America's Most Beautiful Roadster at the '13 GNRS in Pomona... here's a link to a Google Image photo http://www.everythingsouthcity.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/734072_10151313952484888_957672381_n.jpg Another great example of the "traditional" feel that is so popular in the hot rod world right now. Glad to know so many of you "get" this...I was worried that maybe I was off in my own world on this subject... One more thing....thanks for reminder about the Art Anderson (the writer was incorrect in his recollection of my article) roadster body. It too had its issues, but was good for its time. I could be wrong on this, but I thought that the Ron Cash body was a little different than Art's....they were friendly competitors at the time, IIRC> What are you thinking at the moment for paint and wheels/tires? So many great choices here. MCW automotive finishes (www.mcwautomotivefinishes.com) offers most of the 1950's OEM Domestic pant color palette in airbrush bottles...as I'm sure you know, many hot rodders back then would choose a color from the current model year OEM paint offerings for their rods....and the Testors One Coat Lacquerr spray '62 Chevy Honduras Maroon has the exact same PPG formula code as late 1950's Buick Titian Red Metallic, which was frequently used by late 1950's hot rods.... Best regards...TIM

John...excellent info and comparison! I recall being told a simllar story by Dennis Doty a long time ago, but this is the first point by point comparison I've seen. Thanks...TIM

Harry... Young American has a different tie rod/drag link setup, a different fuel tank layout, the addition of an oil tank and lines, and a ballast box that replaces the front axle weights of the Garlits kit. All this in addition to different decals (obviously) and also different valve cover engraving (I believe). It will be interesting to see how many of these differences are "re-incorporated" into the Garlits reissue, but regardless, I am overjoyed to have this iconic kit back on the market. TB

The basic kit tool is shared between the Wynnscharger and the Young American, but there are a surprising (at least to me) number of detail differences between the two kits, primarily in the chassis setup. TIM