Texas_3D_Customs

Oh I agree they are much better now especially if you run them at low layer height settings for the layer lines but your nozzle is still even on the best of days you're running up 1 mm nozzle You don't have the XY accuracy Like I said they have their uses I have a nice printer it is very reliable It's not that old It's a core XY machine It's got all the bells and whistles including a heated chamber I can print carbon fiber infuse ABS pet g nylon has a diamond nozzle in it but PLA still is not temperature resistant and it's nowhere near the quality of even a 5-year-old resin printer

So if it's PLA that is a filament print you can spend a lot less money to buy a filament printer even mine which is considered a pretty nice big printer only cost about $900 and it's probably overkill. I'm going to say you're not going to be real happy with the surface finish even a very good filament printer is not going to have a smooth finish even remotely comparable to resin prints also being that it's PLA it's not very temperature resistant so if you are driving it outside and it's 100° it's going to start to deform I made my license plate frame out of PLA just to test it I never got around to doing it in an ABS but here's what it looks like being out in the summer heat of Texas.

You were going to have a very hard time finding a resin printer that will do 1:10 scale bodies Even cut up what you're going to absolutely have to do I think my phrozen mega 8K would have difficulty fitting them at least on my Traxxas T-Maxx the width of the body is kind of make it very hard to fit on that build plate. And that's not exactly a cheap printer. There are a few printers larger than that that are resin but they get really expensive I think you can get the mega 8K s which is like the very basic version for $1,200 give or take. DS model is limited to about 1 ft and build height That's actually not bad question is is it worth the $1,200 to buy that printer or to do everything chop the file up to make it fit. I know that I wouldn't want to do it it would take forever to make her body but I would agree if you want them and you're willing to put the time and money into buying the equipment learning to do it modifying the file so they fit Yes buying your own printer would be the right way go.

I can promise you at the scale is perfect The reason I can say this is that I scanned a real carburetor to make that so everything is exactly how it is on the real one and the scaled perfectly to the original

You will find that most people doing this as a business don't want to take on jobs like that. There are several people that do their own printing, perhaps they can help you.

And yet another

I have used other resins like this such as the YouTube resin, it does flex reasonably but in my experience the details are not as good as a high quality resin that's not focused on durability. Perhaps it would be a good option to use.

So here's something to consider, resin printed items are brittle so while not impossible it wouldn't take much to take a chunk from one. Now IMHO photoetch makes more sense.

That is most likely due to absorbing moisture. All plastic does to a degree, 3D prints are notoriously hydroscopic. Due to how additive manufacturing works they are inherently porous. Moisture will then cause the print to warp on the layer lines. I always recommend either painting relatively soon after receiving them or storing them in a coold dry place best in a sealed container with desiccant.

Not sure how I got mentioned here. But that's not mine. Parts can warp after the fact but it's usually due to improper orientation and the stresses of layer curing unevenly. I of course would argue the best people printing were into 3D printing first and of course modeling as you can indeed model with 3D printing in mind.

Yet another

Something new

No way never existed in real life This was only done because of that random Photoshop picture of a 427 SOHC that had been made into a V12 someone bet me that I couldn't do it so I did it and then I also just made some random intakes for it. Now there have been v12s made from LS's in real life and that would be a 90° V12 and it's not exactly the way you would want to make a production p12 because as you said v12s are usually two in I6 engines put together the major Advantage being the perfect balance that inline 6 X2 and making a V12 out of the V8 x1.5 would not be ideal but it has been done. Even the GMC Twin 6 is a 60° bank which was of course made from two v6s. This engine was nothing more than a fun little project to be nothing more than that a what if fun thing. I mean why are the magnetos however you want that the firing order and then stipulate that the two magnetos are 30° split and then figure out which cylinder should I wear It's all good fun though right there is no wrong way to wire up an engine that does exist in real life.

I probably will at some point I started it I just never finished It's a lot of work

That's actually not too surprising. I am not a fan of anycubic never have been it probably goes back to the proprietary slicing format everybody freaked out when Chitubox did an encrypt it format that was proprietary but people never really cared much about anycubic. I understand there's a difference between what happened between the community and Chitu Systems but any cubic has made some very questionable products and I think the autofill is completely worthless unless you're trying to print something that you're that cannot print without refilling midprint which I never have that problem but it does intrinsically put some challenges based on the chemistry and nature of photosensitive resin. The stuff is nasty it will eat seals like there's no tomorrow.

Not really I produce very intrinsic detail models with great surface finish and here's a little inside I'm using three generation old printers some of them are newer but of the 36 printers I have only 10 are current generation printers. You have to consider that even first gen mono LCD printers were 50 micron pixels current ones are anywhere from 12 to 15 give or take I think there's some that are 17 that sounds all fine and dandy and it in theory can work but there's a lot more that goes on than just the size of the pixel. How the resin reacts and propagates from the exposure has a lot to do with it but 50 microns is extremely small in itself. More than anything it has to do with what material you use how you lay your prints out on the build plate how well you've tuned your resin and supports. I don't still have one but I was making very smooth finishes on the original elegoo Saturn. This is a 1/8 scale C6 for an FE engine. It was done on my Phrozen mega 8K which by today standards has horrible resolution it might be 8K but it's a massive screen so your pixel size I think is 50 micron but it's smooth very smooth. So while the new printers are capable of producing slightly better detail and that's only the limitations of the resin and how the curing works It's like a daisy chain you kick off a section and it does spread some from there I've done a lot of research and how resin works and why all these ridiculously small pixels don't matter as much as they make it out to be. What I will say for certain modern resin printers are some of the new features they have like the tilting vat instead of the build plate going up and down on the eligu ultra series and then you've got heated vets that's a nice thing to have Auto leveling little tossed up on it It's kind of good it's kind of bad You just have to work around it and rethink how you do things. Some of them now have pumps that will drain and fill your resin for you sounds good It's really good for draining but a lot of resins will settle and if your bottle is upside down then it's going to suck pigment before it does the other parts of the resin it needs to be mixed. So the whole point to my rant here is it's not so much the printer it's everything else that matters how good of a print you will have.

So the layer lines are not so much the XY resolution or the layer height it's the angle of the print and the shift of pixels per layer the become very pronounced when the steps are not consistent like if you were to build a staircase at an angle where every step was not the same height. Anti aliasing works best when you have the angle set correctly

You have to understand it's not so much using that word He's taking things way out of context and he's not really telling a full story and use whatever word you want.

Still holding on to that I see 😜

Layer lines but it really has to do with the settings of the person doing the printing. Most modern printers have very small voxels "pixels kinda" and with the correct orientation and anti alias settings they are not that noticeable with the naked eye, but to mitigate them a good filler primer with some post processing will make a big difference. But there also appears to be a layer shift on that part as well. How much magnifying did you do to show those lines? If you zoom in on my parts they are there but once painted they are imperceivable. But it really comes down to experience to make a print with no noticeable layer lines.

That is where it attaches to the plate a good vendor in my honest opinion will ship the parts off the supports one is time-consuming and to things can get broken doing it

Okay I guess when I think detail I think well the details of the parts not the breakdown I will admit I don't break them down as far as other people do I do more than some less than others it really comes into space considerations. Because I don't do just one scale think about how many engines I have how many different scales I offer them in there's a reason I sold my house and move somewhere with a 50x24 shop. I am definitely out of space until I get moved over there. Even then you can only do so many parts with so many options if you want to keep things in stock and I don't really do a lot of print to order.

So that intake manifold is not inherently incorrect it is the pre-production model it was the original it is highly sought after in the actual Cobra community there aren't many of them around as far as I know I decided to go with that over the production intake manifold The rest of it was scanned from a real engine so it is correct including the T56.

There's also a more stock version with the torker II intake both are single planes but this is the Mopar single plane versus Edelbrock

Not sure how it can be any more detailed than scanning it and getting every single thing exactly where it goes. I did not dumb down the files when I reverse engineer them into CAD so I don't see how any detail can't be there. As far as the accessories I will agree they're not stock set up they were modeled after one of the aftermarket kits it's just the way I decided to go with that engine.