Texas_3D_Customs

Yeah I think that was a bad idea, the flathead that is, the Nailhead is significantly bigger than the Flathead.

Added the 1:10 scale options to both of my Nailheads

It was more of a joke I never thought anybody would actually inquire about it

And this is the inherent problem with answering these questions yes yes indeed that is another engine on the list but again lots and lots of engines to do and these requests could continue on forever one of those things there's hundreds and hundreds of desirable engines out there I know most of them I am a car guy after all with all this takes time and as it stands right now kind of unable to do what I really want to do the reason I moved if anybody really wants to help me out I have a house in Dallas Metro that really needs to be bought

Most of my engines are already available in 1/10 scale

Probably eventually I will do a Cadillac V8 but I'm kind of still stuck with two mortgages so money is a little tight so I can't go out and buy an engine there's also some other engines I know I'm going to do before that one

Well he wont find my files that I can promise you, these are not Cult3D files, but 1:10 scale is something that I do offer, I am not sure why this engine doesn't have that option but there was a time where I was thinking about cutting it out.

Because I have way too many wheels and it can be daunting to find a specific set unless you know the name and use the search function.

I totally did not get this the first time I went back when I posted today now I get it

Blue Oval

not everyone, does that, but to get down to the honest answer its about money. I can say that its very profitable at 1:25/24 easier to make in bulk and cheaper to ship than any other scale out there. The demand is greater and the profit margins are much greater.

If only someone had done that like 2 and a half years ago...

It really wouldn't be that hard to do in real life, flip the pulley bracket make yourself some ugly triangle shaped adapter to go on top of the lower manifold. Sheet metal and some welding will do and then suppose you would have to have a custom belt made but really aren't they all custom in this industry and I mean the real thing not scale models

Don't ask why ask why not

Oh I agree they are much better now especially if you run them at low layer height settings for the layer lines but your nozzle is still even on the best of days you're running up 1 mm nozzle You don't have the XY accuracy Like I said they have their uses I have a nice printer it is very reliable It's not that old It's a core XY machine It's got all the bells and whistles including a heated chamber I can print carbon fiber infuse ABS pet g nylon has a diamond nozzle in it but PLA still is not temperature resistant and it's nowhere near the quality of even a 5-year-old resin printer

So if it's PLA that is a filament print you can spend a lot less money to buy a filament printer even mine which is considered a pretty nice big printer only cost about $900 and it's probably overkill. I'm going to say you're not going to be real happy with the surface finish even a very good filament printer is not going to have a smooth finish even remotely comparable to resin prints also being that it's PLA it's not very temperature resistant so if you are driving it outside and it's 100° it's going to start to deform I made my license plate frame out of PLA just to test it I never got around to doing it in an ABS but here's what it looks like being out in the summer heat of Texas.

You were going to have a very hard time finding a resin printer that will do 1:10 scale bodies Even cut up what you're going to absolutely have to do I think my phrozen mega 8K would have difficulty fitting them at least on my Traxxas T-Maxx the width of the body is kind of make it very hard to fit on that build plate. And that's not exactly a cheap printer. There are a few printers larger than that that are resin but they get really expensive I think you can get the mega 8K s which is like the very basic version for $1,200 give or take. DS model is limited to about 1 ft and build height That's actually not bad question is is it worth the $1,200 to buy that printer or to do everything chop the file up to make it fit. I know that I wouldn't want to do it it would take forever to make her body but I would agree if you want them and you're willing to put the time and money into buying the equipment learning to do it modifying the file so they fit Yes buying your own printer would be the right way go.

I can promise you at the scale is perfect The reason I can say this is that I scanned a real carburetor to make that so everything is exactly how it is on the real one and the scaled perfectly to the original

You will find that most people doing this as a business don't want to take on jobs like that. There are several people that do their own printing, perhaps they can help you.

And yet another

I have used other resins like this such as the YouTube resin, it does flex reasonably but in my experience the details are not as good as a high quality resin that's not focused on durability. Perhaps it would be a good option to use.

So here's something to consider, resin printed items are brittle so while not impossible it wouldn't take much to take a chunk from one. Now IMHO photoetch makes more sense.

That is most likely due to absorbing moisture. All plastic does to a degree, 3D prints are notoriously hydroscopic. Due to how additive manufacturing works they are inherently porous. Moisture will then cause the print to warp on the layer lines. I always recommend either painting relatively soon after receiving them or storing them in a coold dry place best in a sealed container with desiccant.

Not sure how I got mentioned here. But that's not mine. Parts can warp after the fact but it's usually due to improper orientation and the stresses of layer curing unevenly. I of course would argue the best people printing were into 3D printing first and of course modeling as you can indeed model with 3D printing in mind.

Yet another